3830 McCALL'S ® rev. Place on fold PATTERN MARKINGS ADJUST IF NECESSARY CUTTING AND MARKING GRAINLINE: Place on straight grain of fabric, an even distance from selvage or fold A pattern is made to fit body measurements, with extra ease for comfort and style. Adjust pieces before placing on fabric. Adjust back waist, sleeve and finished garment lengths using McCALL’s Easy-Rule Guide. SHRINK FABRIC not labeled pre-shrunk. Press. CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width. Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used. For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD) - fold fabric with Right Sides Together. TO SHORTEN: Crease on Easy-Rule Guide. Fold necessary amount. Tape in place. DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD) - For fabrics with nap, fold fabric crosswise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place over lower layer, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER (B). TO LENGTHEN: Cut on dotted lines of Easy-Rule Guide. Spread necessary amount. Tape over paper. For SINGLE THICKNESS - place fabric Right Side Up. Before CUTTING place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Overlap margins. Pin. Cut ACCURATELY through fabric and pattern on cutting line. Cut notches outward. When Easy-Rule Guide is not on tissue, lengthen or shorten at lower edge. BEFORE REMOVING PATTERN, transfer markings to Wrong Side of fabric. Two ways which may be used quickly are the Pin and Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. FOLD LINE: Place on fold of fabric. CUTTING LINE: For cutting. SEAM LINE: For stitching. FRONT SEAM ALLOWANCE: Distance between cutting and seam lines, usually 5/8” (1.5cm). On multi-sized patterns seam allowance is included, but not printed on tissue. BACK NOTCHES AND SYMBOLS: For matching pattern pieces. 46” (117cm) E E D D C C B B A A FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT SYMBOL: The finished garment measurements at bust and/or hip are printed on your Front pattern pieces. The measurement includes Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease. The measurement excludes pleats, tucks, darts and seam allowances. Measurements are also printed on the back of the pattern envelope when space is available. LAYOUT NOTES ∗ B A Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller sizes. This McCall pattern may have cutting lines for several sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for your size. If pattern is petite-able, layouts illustrated are suitable for corresponding Petite sizes. ★ Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece. Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer of fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face down on right side of fabric. CUTTING LAYOUTS NOTE: Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller sizes. A,B OR C - CONTINUED A,B OR C - CONTINUED D OR E - CONTINUED sizes 12-14-16-18-20-22 sizes 20-22 sizes 18-20-22 NOTE: This McCall pattern has cutting lines for several sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for your size. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this *piece. Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer of fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face down on right side of fabric. 3 FOLD 1 1 2 4 3 4 FOLD A THRU E 1 4 5 5 2 5 PATTERN PIECES 5 2 SELVAGES SELVAGES 3 SKIRT A THRU E SELVAGES FOLD use pieces 3, 4 SELVAGE 5 54” (140cm) synthetic leather sizes 6-8-10-12-14-16 INTERFACING SELVAGE 3 1 2 EDGE 4 3 21” thru 25” (53 thru 64cm) all sizes CROSSFOLD 5 3 4 EDGE 5 1 SELVAGES 5 3 1 3 SELVAGES sizes 18-20-22 SELVAGE 2 4 FOLD 60” (150cm) fabric with nap or without nap all sizes 54” (140cm) synthetic leather sizes 6-8-10-12-14 5 2 SELVAGE 3 4 1 1 FOLD 2 4 2 FOLD FOLD A,B OR C SKIRT A THRU E 1. BACK 2. FRONT 3. BACK FACING 4. FRONT FACING 5. CARRIER 45” (115cm) fabric with nap or without nap sizes 6-8-10 4 SKIRT use pieces 1 thru 5 (piece 5 is optional) D OR E sizes 16-18 60” (150cm) fabric with nap or without nap all sizes SKIRT use pieces 1 thru 5 (piece 5 is optional) SELVAGES SELVAGES 5 3 5 5 1 1 2 FOLD 2 3 4 FOLD SELVAGE 3 4 45” (115cm) fabric with nap or without nap sizes 6-8-10-12-14-16 SELVAGE 1 SELVAGES 3 2 5 1 FOLD 2 4 4 FOLD PRINTED IN U.S.A. CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 FABRIC KEY SEWING DIRECTIONS 2. FACING CENTER BACK SEAM - VIEW D OR E Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side of each BACK FACING (3) and FRONT FACING (4), following manufacturer's directions. SKIRT 3830 - PAGE 2 OF 2 Stitch center back seam from lower edge to circle. 1. BACK AND FRONT SEWING INFORMATION Turn right side out. Press. Cut four carriers from this strip, each 31⁄2" (9cm) long. Discard excess. 3 4 Machine-baste opening edges together above large circle. SEAM ALLOWANCES Stitch back facing to front facing at sides. With right sides together, pin carriers to lower position on skirt, having raw edge extending 5/8" (1.5cm) above line indicated. Stitch 5/8" (1.5cm) from raw edge. FINISH un-notched edge of facing. Cut carrier seam allowance to 1/4" (6mm). BACK DARTS - ALL VIEWS Use 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated. Trim enclosed seam allowances into layers. Trim corners. To make dart in each BACK (1), fold right sides together, matching solid lines and circles. Stitch on solid line. Press fold of darts toward center. 1 ZIPPER - ALL VIEWS CENTER BACK SEAM - VIEW A, B OR C Notch outer curves. Clip inner curves. On inside, center closed zipper face down over basted seam with top-stop 1" (2.5cm) from upper edge. Hand-baste through all thicknesses - tape and fabric. Pin facing to skirt, right sides together, matching notches, center front and side seams. Back edges of facing extend 5/8" (1.5cm). Adjust ease. Baste. Stitch upper edge. Trim seam allowances. FINISH raw edge of extensions. Stitch center back seam between large circle and small circle, pivot at small circle and stitch across extensions. PIN AND FIT Pin or baste seams, RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER, matching notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams. Machine-baste opening edges together above large circle. On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from seam with a zipper foot. Remove basting. Press carriers upward. Turn under 5/8" (1.5cm) on raw edge and pin to waist edge over dart. EDGESTITCH close to turned under edge. 4. HEM Turn facing to inside. Press. PRESS Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat. Turn in back edges of facing and hand-sew to zipper tapes. Catch-stitch facing to seams. Turn up a 21⁄4" (5.7cm) hem on lower edge of skirt, opening out left extension for View A. B or C. Baste close to fold. Press. Open out hem. FINISH raw edge. Replace hem and BLINDSTITCH in place. Press. FRONT AND SIDE SEAMS GLOSSARY Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in SEWING DIRECTIONS are explained below. BLINDSTITCH - Turn edge down about 1/4" (6mm). Make a small diagonal stitch by picking up one thread of garment, then one thread of hem or facing. EASESTITCH - Stitch along seamline, using long machine stitches. Pull up thread ends when adjusting to fit. NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4" (6mm) away in seam allowance. for more control. EDGESTITCH - Stitch close to finished edge or seam. Make darts in FRONT (2). Press fold of darts toward center. Clip right back seam allowance above extension. Stitch front to back at sides. Sew hook and eye (or make thread eye) above zipper. Turn extensions toward left side, folding left back along fold line. Press seam allowances open above clip and extensions flat. Pin or baste upper edge of extensions in place. FINISH - Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one of the following: pink, overcast or turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold or overlock. OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply seam binding. 3. OPTIONAL CARRIERS SLIPSTITCH - (Used to join two folded edges or one folded edge to a flat surface.) Slide needle through a folded edge; then pick up a thread from the opposite fold or surface. Fold CARRIERS (5) in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edges, taking up a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. On outside, stitch extensions in place along line indicated on left back. TOPSTITCH - On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, seam or previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instructions. 2 EASESTITCH waist edge. 5 For View A. B or C, turn left extension to inside again. SLIPSTITCH lower edges together and inner edge to hem. Press. SLIPSTITCH right back edges together.
© Copyright 2019