From Raglan Jacket to Coat with Hood

From Raglan Jacket
to Coat with Hood
This style has:
o Hood
o Roomy patch pockets
o Facings on pocket openings
o Sleeve with cuff
o Eye-catching appearance
o Reversible construction
Fit information
Hood V-shaped towards front closure
Narrow cut
Slightly fitted
Tapers off towards hem
Fabric recommendations
Wool fabrics
Blended fabrics
Double-face fabrics
Glazed fabrics
Style variant
From raglan jacket to coat with hood
Select model
Open My Label software and open or create the desired model in the models drawer.
Select style
In the styles drawer, under the heading ‘Jackets’, select the raglan jacket.
Alter style properties
o Finished jacket length:
o Sleeve length:
o Wrist / cuff:
increase by 10 cm
increase by 8 cm
increase to 20 cm
Pattern alteration via stitch placement
Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix.
Mark sleeve reference lines
Mark the cuff (fold line) at 8 cm (corresponds to about 1/5 of sleeve length).
Tip To better gauge the length, it can be helpful to draw in an additional line at
underarm height. This can be removed before printing.
Mark front base of neck, front edge, hem, and pocket
Mark front base of neck for the hood as per the figure. The marking line begins at the
base of the neck and ends between the top button markings (Fig. 1).
Mark front edge and hem as per figure. Drag the diagonal line on the front edge approx.
5cm below the bottom button marking and up to approx. 12 cm short of the side seam,
then tapering off to the hem edge (Fig. 2).
Mark pocket in desired shape and size on front section (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3
Print pattern pieces
For the coat with hood, you’ll need front, back and sleeve sections. Position, save and
print out pattern pieces.
Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand
Before cutting out, check the fit and dimensions of the redesigned front and the sleeve.
Correct if necessary.
Hem width can be manually reduced to 1.6 cm on all three pattern pieces before cutting
Sleeve and front
Draw the sleeve seam straight from the forearm to the hem. Cut out (Fig. 1).
Add 1.6 cm seam allowance to both the base of the neck and the new hem edge and
cut out (Fig. 2).
Patch pocket
Add 1.6cm seam allowance to pocket bag on front and copy (Fig. 1).
Cut out pocket bag (Fig. 2).
Cut pocket facing off of pocket bag and add 1.6 cm seam allowance (Fig.3).
Copy the pocket facing and glue together as per Fig. 4, so that both facing sections join
up into arrow.
Fig. 2
Construction of the hood
Measure neck-base circumference and head height:
Measure generously from shoulder to shoulder over the head (head
height), i.e. it should be easy to slide the measuring tape over the
back of the head.
Measure finished neck-base line against the pattern pieces, from the
centre-back over the sleeve up to the front edge of the front section, making sure not to
measure the seam allowances at the same time.
Make a note of the neck-base circumference of the pattern and half of the head height.
From the baselines to the head heigh
Draw a right angle of approx. 50 cm x 45 cm.
Mark the neck-base circumference measured
against the pattern on the horizontal baseline
and 1/3 plus 1cm of the neckline upwards on
the vertical line.
Connect markings. In the middle of the
connecting line mark 2.5 cm diagonally
outwards and draw in the neck-base line
slightly rounded, as per the illustration.
Starting from the vertical line, mark the back
neckline circumference (shoulder seam).
Drag a reference line diagonally upwards
from the shoulder-seam marking in the right
angle. Mark half of the measured head height
on this reference line.
Drag a horizontal frame line through this
Hood markings and shape
Extend the top frame line approx. 7cm to
the right.
From here, close the hood frame.
Make another marking to the left of the
reference line at about 5 cm.
Drag a diagonal marking approx. 5.5 cm
long from the left-hand corner.
Draw a final vertical marking 1cm outside
of the left frame margin.
Draw a harmonious hood shape from the
top right-hand corner to the back neckbase line.
Close the hood shape from the front
right-hand corner up to the front neckbase line.
Add 1.6cm seam allowance all around on
the hood and cut out the hood.
Fabric requirement
Fabric Key
Lining, right
Fabric, right
Fabric, wrong
Symbols and Markings Key
Lining, wrong
Centre Front
Centre Back
Reference points – help
in combining the
individual sheets
points on
front sections
Marking points
on back
Pleating in
direction of
Marking of dart ends
(1cm before the dart
point in each case)
The illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length of
fabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own personal
measurements and preferences, they may differ from the sizes and shapes of the
pattern layout.
Fabric: 140 cm wide, to fabric fold.
Pattern-layout picture
Per piece of fabric 140 cm wide, to fabric fold.
Approx. 2 x 2.5 m fabric in two different qualities (worked double)
Block-interfaced facings
The facings for the pockets are swapped round for construction from both fabrics.
Materials and miscellaneous
2 buttons
Interfacing for reinforcing pockets
Interfacing for pocket facings
Interfacing or stay tape for the closure edge
Stay tape for hem diagonals and neckline, if wished
Cutting out x 2 in different fabric qualities
Outer fabric/ from 2 qualities
1 x back to fabric fold
2 x fabric strips for welted
2 x front
buttonhole, depending on button
2 x sleeve
size approx. 10 cm x 6 cm on the
2 x hood
diagonal grain
2 x patch pocket
4 x interfacing in the size of the
desired pockets, including pocket
2 x pocket facings
2 x fabric strips for welted
buttonhole, depending on button
size approx.10cm x 6cm on the
diagonal grain
Tip: Depending on fabric quality, it makes sense to line the entire front section of a
fabric quality with interfacing.
Arrange paper pattern pieces on fabric as per pattern-layout illustration. After cutting
out, transfer all markings onto wrong side of fabric.
Sewing instructions
If necessary, iron stay tape onto seam allowance of neck base.
Prepare pockets
Neaten pocket bag. Iron folded facing wrong sides together.
Sew facing right sides together to top edge of pocket. Trim and grade
seam allowance to 1 cm (Fig.1).
Iron facing and seam allowance upwards (Fig. 2).
Iron over seam allowance of inside of facing and trim to 1 cm.
Turn inside of facing onto right side of pocket. Pin seam allowance of facing along the
pointy side and sew together up to join seam of the pocket bag, taking care to stitch the
seam allowance of the inside facing at the same time. Trim seam allowance diagonally
to a point (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1
Carefully turn facing right side out and press.
Iron the neatened seam allowances to the wrong side of the pocket.
Pin or baste facing to wrong side of pocket.
Edge-stitch top and bottom edge of facing on right side of pocket.
Sew on pockets
Pin or baste pockets as per the markings on the front section.
For sturdiness’ sake, sew on pocket bags in the side seam allowances, then edge-stitch
the pockets on.
Sew together hood
Sew together centre seam of hood. Trim seam allowance to 1cm. If necessary, clip in
the curves, press, and topstitch as wished.
Close shoulder darts. Trim seam allowance, press, and topstitch as wished.
Sew on sleeve to within 5 cm of the side seam on the garment back. Trim and press
seam allowances.
Sew on sleeve to within 5 cm of the side seam on the front sections. Trim and press
seam allowances.
Sew on hood
Sew hood to coat as per markings. Trim seam allowance and press apart. Clip in the
curves if necessary.
Prepare welted buttonhole
Mark buttonhole size to suit button diameter about 6 cm below the hood join seam.
Cutting out buttonhole strips
As a rule, 2 mm is added onto the button diameter. Buttonhole width varies from button
to button.
Our example: Button diameter 3.8 mm plus 2 mm yields a buttonhole length of 4 cm,
plus 1.5 cm seam allowance to the left and right, yields a fabric-strip length of 7 cm.
Buttonhole width 8mm. 2 x 8mm yields 1.6 cm buttonhole width plus 2cm seam
allowance each side yields a strip width of 5.6 cm.
Mark buttonhole size with darning thread.
Depending on fabric quality, the buttonhole strip can be lined with interfacing.
Place buttonhole strip right sides together in the centre of the buttonhole marking and
pin. Staystitch buttonhole all round with small stitches as per illustration and secure
firmly. Remove buttonhole marking.
Slash buttonhole as per illustration, making sure not to cut through the straight-stitching
in the corners. The slashed seam width of the buttonhole yields the welt width of the
finished buttonhole.
Pull the buttonhole strip through the slashed opening to the wrong side of the fabric.
Guide the buttonhole strip around the seam allowance; pull smooth and press.
Fold strip into a welt that meets in the centre of the buttonhole. Pin or baste welt.
Stitch welt in the ditch of the buttonhole from the right side. Topstitch the two short long
sides from the wrong side, including the corners created when the buttonhole was
slashed. Pin or baste welt as per illustration.
Place the fabric strip for the inner jacket on the right side of the fabric as per the
markings and pin or baste.
Stitch the buttonhole marking all around with short stitch lengths as per the welted
buttonhole. Slash, turn through the opening and pull smooth.
This will create a window which should be exactly the same size as the welted
Baste opening all around.
Close side seams
Close side seams with right sides facing. If necessary, trim seam allowances and iron
Inner and outer coat
Sew the two coats together all around, leaving a turning opening of about 20 cm on the
hem at the centre back.
Trim seam allowances and clip corners. Turn coat through opening at hem to the outer
Tip: Press seam allowances apart before turning coat. This makes it easier to iron the
edges into shape.
Press the edges and stitch in place if need be.
Attach hood and finish welted buttonhole.
Starting at the open hem, pin or baste the seam allowance of the hoods, inside from
shoulder seam to shoulder seam, so that the seams lie exactly one on top of the other.
Pin buttonhole window of inner coat wrong sides facing onto welted buttonhole and sew
together by hand.
Join coat sleeves
With right sides facing, sew together sleeve hems of inner and outer coat. Trim seam
allowance, turn, and press the edge, starting from the right side of the coat.
Sew sleeve seams together from top to bottom. Press seam allowances apart.
Topstitch sleeve hem 1.5 cm in from the edge.
Finish closing sleeve in the forearm curve. If necessary, trim seam allowance and
secure by hand with a few stitches.
Finish coat
Close back opening by hand. Topstitch coat all around 1.5 cm in from the edge.
Sew buttons onto inner and outer coat.
Further detailed information can be found in your My Label program at
Help> Sewing Techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on the proper way to
sew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings and much more. It also deals with basic sewing
techniques for newcomers.