From Raglan Jacket to Coat with Hood This style has: o Hood o Roomy patch pockets o Facings on pocket openings o Sleeve with cuff o Eye-catching appearance o Reversible construction Fit information o o o o Hood V-shaped towards front closure edge Narrow cut Slightly fitted Tapers off towards hem Fabric recommendations o o o o o o Wool fabrics Blended fabrics Double-face fabrics Glazed fabrics Denim Gabardine Style variant From raglan jacket to coat with hood Select model Open My Label software and open or create the desired model in the models drawer. Select style In the styles drawer, under the heading ‘Jackets’, select the raglan jacket. Alter style properties o Finished jacket length: o Sleeve length: o Wrist / cuff: increase by 10 cm increase by 8 cm increase to 20 cm Pattern alteration via stitch placement Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix. Mark sleeve reference lines Mark the cuff (fold line) at 8 cm (corresponds to about 1/5 of sleeve length). Tip To better gauge the length, it can be helpful to draw in an additional line at underarm height. This can be removed before printing. Mark front base of neck, front edge, hem, and pocket Mark front base of neck for the hood as per the figure. The marking line begins at the base of the neck and ends between the top button markings (Fig. 1). Mark front edge and hem as per figure. Drag the diagonal line on the front edge approx. 5cm below the bottom button marking and up to approx. 12 cm short of the side seam, then tapering off to the hem edge (Fig. 2). Mark pocket in desired shape and size on front section (Fig. 3). Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig. 3 Print pattern pieces For the coat with hood, you’ll need front, back and sleeve sections. Position, save and print out pattern pieces. Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand Before cutting out, check the fit and dimensions of the redesigned front and the sleeve. Correct if necessary. Hem width can be manually reduced to 1.6 cm on all three pattern pieces before cutting out. Sleeve and front Draw the sleeve seam straight from the forearm to the hem. Cut out (Fig. 1). Add 1.6 cm seam allowance to both the base of the neck and the new hem edge and cut out (Fig. 2). Fig.1 Fig.2 Patch pocket Add 1.6cm seam allowance to pocket bag on front and copy (Fig. 1). Cut out pocket bag (Fig. 2). Cut pocket facing off of pocket bag and add 1.6 cm seam allowance (Fig.3). Copy the pocket facing and glue together as per Fig. 4, so that both facing sections join up into arrow. Fig.1 Fig. 2 Fig.3 Fig.4 Construction of the hood Measuring Measure neck-base circumference and head height: Measure generously from shoulder to shoulder over the head (head height), i.e. it should be easy to slide the measuring tape over the back of the head. Measure finished neck-base line against the pattern pieces, from the centre-back over the sleeve up to the front edge of the front section, making sure not to measure the seam allowances at the same time. Make a note of the neck-base circumference of the pattern and half of the head height. From the baselines to the head heigh Draw a right angle of approx. 50 cm x 45 cm. Mark the neck-base circumference measured against the pattern on the horizontal baseline and 1/3 plus 1cm of the neckline upwards on the vertical line. Connect markings. In the middle of the connecting line mark 2.5 cm diagonally outwards and draw in the neck-base line slightly rounded, as per the illustration. Starting from the vertical line, mark the back neckline circumference (shoulder seam). Drag a reference line diagonally upwards from the shoulder-seam marking in the right angle. Mark half of the measured head height on this reference line. Drag a horizontal frame line through this marking. Hood markings and shape Extend the top frame line approx. 7cm to the right. From here, close the hood frame. Make another marking to the left of the reference line at about 5 cm. Drag a diagonal marking approx. 5.5 cm long from the left-hand corner. Draw a final vertical marking 1cm outside of the left frame margin. Draw a harmonious hood shape from the top right-hand corner to the back neckbase line. Close the hood shape from the front right-hand corner up to the front neckbase line. Add 1.6cm seam allowance all around on the hood and cut out the hood. Fabric requirement Fabric Key Lining, right Fabric, right Fabric, wrong side side side Symbols and Markings Key CF CB B9 Lining, wrong side Interfacing Centre Front Centre Back Sheet numbering Reference points – help in combining the individual sheets Grain Marking points on front sections Marking points on back sections Pleating in direction of arrow Marking of dart ends (1cm before the dart point in each case) Button marking The illustration shows one way the pattern pieces can be laid out on a folded length of fabric. Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own personal measurements and preferences, they may differ from the sizes and shapes of the pattern layout. Fabric: 140 cm wide, to fabric fold. Pattern-layout picture Per piece of fabric 140 cm wide, to fabric fold. Approx. 2 x 2.5 m fabric in two different qualities (worked double) Block-interfaced facings The facings for the pockets are swapped round for construction from both fabrics. Materials and miscellaneous o o o o o 2 buttons Interfacing for reinforcing pockets Interfacing for pocket facings Interfacing or stay tape for the closure edge Stay tape for hem diagonals and neckline, if wished Cutting out x 2 in different fabric qualities Outer fabric/ from 2 qualities Interfacing o 1 x back to fabric fold o 2 x fabric strips for welted o 2 x front buttonhole, depending on button o 2 x sleeve size approx. 10 cm x 6 cm on the o 2 x hood diagonal grain o 2 x patch pocket o 4 x interfacing in the size of the desired pockets, including pocket o 2 x pocket facings o 2 x fabric strips for welted facings buttonhole, depending on button size approx.10cm x 6cm on the diagonal grain Tip: Depending on fabric quality, it makes sense to line the entire front section of a fabric quality with interfacing. Preparation Arrange paper pattern pieces on fabric as per pattern-layout illustration. After cutting out, transfer all markings onto wrong side of fabric. Sewing instructions Preparations If necessary, iron stay tape onto seam allowance of neck base. Prepare pockets Neaten pocket bag. Iron folded facing wrong sides together. Sew facing right sides together to top edge of pocket. Trim and grade seam allowance to 1 cm (Fig.1). Iron facing and seam allowance upwards (Fig. 2). Iron over seam allowance of inside of facing and trim to 1 cm. Turn inside of facing onto right side of pocket. Pin seam allowance of facing along the pointy side and sew together up to join seam of the pocket bag, taking care to stitch the seam allowance of the inside facing at the same time. Trim seam allowance diagonally to a point (Fig. 3). Fig. 1 Fig.2 Fig.3 Carefully turn facing right side out and press. Iron the neatened seam allowances to the wrong side of the pocket. Pin or baste facing to wrong side of pocket. Edge-stitch top and bottom edge of facing on right side of pocket. Sew on pockets Pin or baste pockets as per the markings on the front section. For sturdiness’ sake, sew on pocket bags in the side seam allowances, then edge-stitch the pockets on. Sew together hood Sew together centre seam of hood. Trim seam allowance to 1cm. If necessary, clip in the curves, press, and topstitch as wished. Sleeve Close shoulder darts. Trim seam allowance, press, and topstitch as wished. Sew on sleeve to within 5 cm of the side seam on the garment back. Trim and press seam allowances. Sew on sleeve to within 5 cm of the side seam on the front sections. Trim and press seam allowances. Sew on hood Sew hood to coat as per markings. Trim seam allowance and press apart. Clip in the curves if necessary. Prepare welted buttonhole Mark buttonhole size to suit button diameter about 6 cm below the hood join seam. Cutting out buttonhole strips As a rule, 2 mm is added onto the button diameter. Buttonhole width varies from button to button. Our example: Button diameter 3.8 mm plus 2 mm yields a buttonhole length of 4 cm, plus 1.5 cm seam allowance to the left and right, yields a fabric-strip length of 7 cm. Buttonhole width 8mm. 2 x 8mm yields 1.6 cm buttonhole width plus 2cm seam allowance each side yields a strip width of 5.6 cm. Mark buttonhole size with darning thread. Depending on fabric quality, the buttonhole strip can be lined with interfacing. Place buttonhole strip right sides together in the centre of the buttonhole marking and pin. Staystitch buttonhole all round with small stitches as per illustration and secure firmly. Remove buttonhole marking. Slash buttonhole as per illustration, making sure not to cut through the straight-stitching in the corners. The slashed seam width of the buttonhole yields the welt width of the finished buttonhole. Pull the buttonhole strip through the slashed opening to the wrong side of the fabric. Guide the buttonhole strip around the seam allowance; pull smooth and press. Fold strip into a welt that meets in the centre of the buttonhole. Pin or baste welt. Stitch welt in the ditch of the buttonhole from the right side. Topstitch the two short long sides from the wrong side, including the corners created when the buttonhole was slashed. Pin or baste welt as per illustration. Place the fabric strip for the inner jacket on the right side of the fabric as per the markings and pin or baste. Stitch the buttonhole marking all around with short stitch lengths as per the welted buttonhole. Slash, turn through the opening and pull smooth. This will create a window which should be exactly the same size as the welted buttonhole. Baste opening all around. Close side seams Close side seams with right sides facing. If necessary, trim seam allowances and iron apart. Inner and outer coat Sew the two coats together all around, leaving a turning opening of about 20 cm on the hem at the centre back. Trim seam allowances and clip corners. Turn coat through opening at hem to the outer side. Tip: Press seam allowances apart before turning coat. This makes it easier to iron the edges into shape. Press the edges and stitch in place if need be. Attach hood and finish welted buttonhole. Starting at the open hem, pin or baste the seam allowance of the hoods, inside from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, so that the seams lie exactly one on top of the other. Stitch. Pin buttonhole window of inner coat wrong sides facing onto welted buttonhole and sew together by hand. Join coat sleeves With right sides facing, sew together sleeve hems of inner and outer coat. Trim seam allowance, turn, and press the edge, starting from the right side of the coat. Sew sleeve seams together from top to bottom. Press seam allowances apart. Topstitch sleeve hem 1.5 cm in from the edge. Finish closing sleeve in the forearm curve. If necessary, trim seam allowance and secure by hand with a few stitches. Finish coat Close back opening by hand. Topstitch coat all around 1.5 cm in from the edge. Sew buttons onto inner and outer coat. Further detailed information can be found in your My Label program at Help> Sewing Techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on the proper way to sew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings and much more. It also deals with basic sewing techniques for newcomers.
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