A Newsletter of South Oz Scrollers Inc – Volume 7-2 April 2013
Editor: Neil Schulz email: [email protected] Tel 0428 588 912
David Chaplin
Email: [email protected]
George Baldock
Phone 82702705
Email: [email protected]
John McTier
Phone 82981949
Email: [email protected]
John Blencowe
Phone 83839262
Email: [email protected]
Theo Kampes
Phone 82783320
Email: [email protected]
Graham Hawkins
Phone: 82645395
Email: [email protected]
Mike Donnellan
Phone: 83700108
Email: [email protected]
Hello everybody and welcome to the
April edition of the Scroll Saw Chatter. Not a lot
has happened for me regarding my scroll saw
since last time due to my current work
pressures. While browsing around the airports,
as I have been travelling overseas for work
there was precious little in artwork that could
be seen, and the closest thing to a scrolled
item that I saw we're some interlocking angel’s
wings, pressed out of leather, for sale for
120HK dollars.
Graham Hawkins conducted a demonstration on how to
make patterns from photographs using Photoshop on the computer
and it was the first time I had seen all of the members so focused on
a demonstration. Usually there are one or two ratbags making a
comment or having a bit of a chat, but Graham had everybody
totally rapt with the content and the presentation. My thanks and
congratulations to Graham and I think we may see many purchases
of Photoshop and hopefully a lot of patterns derived from
photographs at Scroll and Tell in the future.
There are a lot of upcoming activities and it was excellent
to see all the items brought to show and tell this month, all of which
are eligible for THE BEST OF SHOW AND TELL at the end of the
year. The committee has solicited from our suppliers prizes for this
year’s event, so remember you have to be in it to win it, typical
prizes are shopping vouchers for scrolling accessories, e.g. pattern
books, and saw blades, all of which are very useful to members.
Remember, that if you present an item at scroll and tell, that item
will be eligible. This year’s sponsors are:-
(Tuesday) Mike Donnellan
(Saturday) David Chaplin
May 2013
Saturday 18th
Tuesday 28th
June 2013
Saturday 15th
Tuesday 25th
Also, I highly recommend that anybody who can, enter the
Adelaide Royal Show art or woodworking competitions prior to July
this year. It is lots of fun, very rewarding and helps promote our
craft, about the best way I reckon available for us at the moment.
Don Isam and I were able to cover our costs with our prize money
last year, with some pretty good bragging rights.
As discussed at every workshop, we still need many
volunteers to help out if we are going to demonstrate at the July
Building & Home Improvement show this year. Please keep your
eye on the website to see updates on the year’s program for
workshops, events and activities
There will also be a committee meeting in early May, so let
your committee members know anything you would like discussed.
David Chaplin
Approximately seventeen years ago for the
very first time I happen to have observed a motorised
scroll saw demo., whereby I couldn’t resist the eventual urge to procure what appeared a rather
versatile machine as a useful supplement to my
varied wooden toy making interests at that time.
My initial basic attempts at cutting with the
new Hegner MultiCut1 14” produced some very
crude and poor results and thereby persuaded me to
re-pack the little saw back into its carton and store it
under my workbench indefinitely. For the next two
years it remained untouched until which time my
conscience again persuaded met to at least try again
to achieve something worthwhile from my impulsive
cash outlay. However this time I was determined not
to let the machine get the better of me and decided to
explore and find some experienced facts and tips via
the limited informative literature available back then.
During my personal early scrolling days, we didn’t have the luxury of obtaining training or firsthand
experience from any clubs within Australia because
scroll saw groups to my knowledge then didn’t exist.
Well of course that was many years gone by, and
who have now
got to know me
through contacts
within the club
would be well
aware that yes I
suffered lots of
hopefully by now
gained sufficient
St Theodor’s Cathedral
scrolling skills to
Theo’s First Major Project be able to share
some of the knowledge which could be vital in
assisting other scrollers achieving that elusive
People often stare in awe and wonder, “How
can someone create and achieve such intricate
precision with such a remarkable finished pleasing
The success of any scroll saw project lies not
only in one’s ability as a scroller, but also with crafty timber selection and effective preparation thereof.
Choose the best timber you can afford that suits your
particular project, avoiding any visible defects and
possible knots which could detract in its final
appearance. Whether you select a natural timber or a
quality plywood (laminated timber) no matter how
good it may appear, always prepare by sanding both
surfaces smooth. Once the excess dust is wiped
clean the timber is ready for the pattern to be applied.
I prefer good quality spray glue such as 3M
repositionable adhesive, it’s not cheap but it works more effectively and economically than cheaper
brands. Spray the back of the pattern sparingly but
evenly, then wait for approx. half to one minute for
the glue to feel tacky before attaching the pattern to
the wood. Do not spray glue onto the wood itself.
Drill small entry holes to suit your selected
blade to proceed with all internal scrolling.
Correct blade selection for type and size is an
important factor to achieve the desired precise and
appealing result. It’s important to run your saw at a preferred higher speed which results in smoother
intricate edges of the project abolishing any need for
internal sanding.
When removing the pattern it is essential to
rid any excess glue from the timber with shellite or
other mineral solvent, otherwise the glue will clog up
any fine abrasive cloth being used, or if left on timber
will affect the final finish. I always sand both front and
back scrolled surfaces using a palm sander with at
least 400grit fine abrasive. Blow out any excess dust
prior to assembly or application of any staining or
finish of choice. In all instances always apply a light
but even first coat of lacquer or similar finish, when
dry sand again lightly with 400-600grit cloth abrasive
and repeat with a second and if you think necessary
a third and final coat.
Instead of brushing I prefer to spray delicate
intricate pieces held at a 45 degree angle, which
enables the finish to penetrate the internal edges
covering the otherwise visible, bare cut-out.
writing this article I hope you might enjoy sharing a
few of my personal experiences and comments and
possibly feel inspired enough to expand your own
scroll sawing pursuits to the next level.
Being a fellow SOS member benefits us all to
gain exceptional scrolling knowledge, simply through
asking, answering, listening and observing in a
regular shared workshop environment available
within our club.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
delivered an interesting and
encapsulating session on
developing a scroll saw
pattern from a digital image
to participants of both the
members that while the process is simple it is
demanding in its detail and requires a degree of
creative skills to achieve a lifelike pattern of the
original image. He uses Adobe Photoshop 7, and
older version of a photo editing software for his
process and indicated that any software with editing
features would more than likely be able to achieve
the same results.
By selecting what aspects of the image you
wanted to use, using different tools within the
software to remove unwanted background, changing
the image from colour to black and white and
improving the contrast between black and white it
was quickly seen that a likeness to the original was in
broad terms produced.
From that point on the tedious work of
removing detail in the photo that wasn’t required, joining sections of the photo so that they “created a path” meaning they hung to the subject and
surrounds of the image and sharpening the outlines
of shaded areas began. He suggested to the groups
that getting the detail of the eyes, nose and mouth
and other facial features correct was the first thing to
consider as it probably dictated whether the resulting
piece would be lifelike or not.
Graham and Neil had been looking for ages
for a solution to find a process that could highlight cut
outs that didn’t have a pathway connecting them to the adjacent pieces and would “drop out” of the
pattern when cut. They had been looking for years
and new members Brad Berwick showed them
quickly how simple it was. Thanks Brad.
How much detail you wish to keep in the
resulting image was of personal choice and how
creative you wished to become in manipulating an
image you are happy with.
Members wanting to try can download free
software from the net. Search for GRIM.
contact and discussion,
development of patterns
and sourcing timber we are
ready to start this year’s project. This is the project.
We are expecting to
cut at least 200 butterfly bud
vases which will be used as a memoir for the families
of elderly persons in aged care.
Neil Schulz gave, much to Noreen’s glee, most of his offcuts of veneered MDF board, equaling
about a sheet and Doug Martin sourced some offcuts
of dark veneered plywood, sufficient to set up about
240 vases. While the veneered plywood has some
flaws in it most of these have been cut out to create
panels of which one makes a bud vase. These are
bundled in layers of three and prepared in packs.
This year timber is going to be issued to
individuals and the club expects that the timber will
be returned as an assembled bud vase, or if you
have mucked up the bits and pieces or as the original
stack if not used. Your name will be recorded when
the wood is taken and when the articles are returned.
Because there is little thickness of veneer
(0.6mm on the MDF veneer board) to play with we
are not going to sand prior to cutting. Sanding will be
done before assembly.
So here is a process that you can use for the
project this year.
 Set up each stack of material by taping around
each of the edges. The panels are cut 300mm x
180mm. While the stencil is only 150mm wide the
extra width and length of each panel gives you
some flexibility to be able to move the pattern on
it to make the best use of the top surface and
avoid blemishes generally only in the top board.
 The stencils are marked A & Band make up the
vase. Each stencil is different in the design of the
cross halving joint. Both A & B need to be cut out
of the one board and when cut kept in their pairs.
 Given that the internal cuts are large, drill a 3mm
entry hole to make piercing the blade much
 If there are blemishes, small cracks or holes on
the cut face, either side, these need to be filled
before sanding.
 Use a #5 reverse tooth blade. This will avoid chip
out on the underside. Cut the internal sections
first. It is important at this stage that you do
not cut the cross halving joint. These need to
be left to last and cut precisely so that joint fits
very snugly. Loose joints won’t hold therefore the
lines of the pattern need to be adjusted to suit the
thickness of the material. Take care noting where
you need to cut in relation to your line to make a
neat and firm fitting joint. Being just 3 and 4mm
thick material a bit of sanding of the edges of
these joints to make the good fit is better than
cutting outside the line and having a loose fitting
 Once cutting is complete sand both sides of each
piece using 400 grit sand papers. Be aware that
the more you take off during sanding the
sloppier the cross halving joint becomes so
keep this in mind when cutting the joint. This
will be minimal if you use the 400 sand paper.
 Once sanding is satisfactory proceed to glue the
half housing joint. Using a damp cloth wipe away
all excess glue with a damp cloth so that glue
marks are not shown when the finish coating is
applied. Make sure all four feet of the vase rest
evenly on a smooth surface.
 If when cutting and sanding is finished, you are
unsure about the quality of your cutting or
concerned with some other aspect of assembly
do not assemble the vase and return it to your
next workshop for advice. A good guide is if you
aren’t happy to have it in your own home then it isn’t good enough to give to anyone else.
 If you want more information on “stack cutting” then go to the our website in the members only
sub site and look under “Tutelage”
Given the show of hands at both workshops
members have led the committee to believe that
members want to and are willing to be part of it.
These are going out into the community so the
quality of the finished product needs to be at least
good. Smooth out your curves, neat fitting joints and
good sanding will result in a gift that anyone would
want. We’re ready to go at the May workshops.
Welcome to two new members. Bill Tiss and Brad
Berwick who are our two latest members having both
joined at April’s Tuesday workshop. Their details are as follows
Partner Barbara
20 Stradbroke Ave PLYMPTON PARK 5038
Phone 418816805 email: [email protected]
Brad BERWICK Partner Adrienne
P.O.Box 12
Phone 427475862
Email: [email protected]
Welcome to the Club guys and we hope you
enjoy your membership. Keep asking questions,
there are plenty of people who are willing to guide
and help you improve your knowledge and skills.
“Tools+ More Show – in July”
The Club is still looking for volunteer
members to demonstrate at this show from
July 19 - 21, 2013 at the Adelaide Showgrounds.
Ideally the club is looking for enough people to work
the saws as well as a floater to answer patron’s enquiries. While the organisers have a few names
they are still looking for more. Half day modules are
available for those who can’t offer a full day.
If you can help please advise your workshop
coordinator in May at the latest.
Network has announced that its biannual exhibition will be held in 2014,
hosted by the Wangaratta Woodworkers Inc at their
showground’s in Wangaratta. It will be held on the
weekend of 3rd & 4th of May. To enter the exhibition
scrollers must be a member of the Network which
costs just $15.00 per year.
People wanting to know more about the
national scene can go to the Australian Scrollsaw
Network website where it will find out more about the
association and be able to download a membership
application form if they wish to join.
Franky Pastuch showed the finished product of a toy
she makes for charity. Using Velcro dots a child can
clothing on the
doll as they wish.
painting among
this lot.
Fred Bear
puzzle with a sea
creature theme, talking
about the improvement
in his cutting ability
when comparing this
project with the first
one he cut after joining
the Club twelve months
opportunity to see a bone carver in action tried his
hand at scroll sawing bone and inlaying pau shell.
The bones used are from the shin or upper leg of
cattle. He used a
Dremel to carve the
shapes of the articles
and the recess in
which he inlaid the
comes from New
Zealand and he was fortunate to possess some small
pieces. Something new using different techniques
which is pleasing to see.
Kevin Rundle crafted this
dove clock as a present to a
couple of friends who were
milestone of their marriage. A
mirror backing to the piece
contrasted with the silhouette
and the clock was and insert. A
plaque attached to the bottom of
the project gave details of the
Well it’s time for me to “hit the road” on the
annual trip north to NT & QLD leaving on 20th May.
I am prepared to produce the newsletters
every two months but I don’t know from where. Not
being around the Club I will not have any personal
knowledge, photos or notes to work from. If I have no
content available and no one is passing anything on
there will be nothing to report and therefore no
I am now learning Windows 8 which is a
mammoth learning curve making the task more
frustrating. What a difference to previous versions.
See you in October.