Bunny Medical Supplies
Emergency Kit
By Beau’s Maple Leaf Rabbitry©
Bunny Medical Supplies & Emergency Kit Items:
Worming Medication: Durvet: Ivermectin Paste 1.87%
Sulmet Solution (Liquid)
Corrid Liquid Solution 9.6%
Feeding Syringes: 1ml Syringe, 6ml Syringe and 10ml Syringe
Critical Care
Red Gatorade
Gauze Pads
Hydrogen Peroxide
Mineral Oil
Styptic Powder
Neomycin Oral Solution
Papaya Enzyme Tablets
Terramycin Eye Ointment
Rubbing Alcohol
Small Animal Nail Trimmers
Digital Thermometer: (Digital only)
Vet Wrap
Bag Balm
Dried Lavender
Heat Lamp
Baking Soda
Baby Gas Drops
Apple Cider Vinegar
Chamomile or Chamomile Tea
Not all stuff will fit in your container for your kit, but have it nearby to access the items.
I added some additional information to have on hand as well to refer back to.
Worming Medication for Rabbits: Durvet: Ivermectin Paste 1.87%
Where to Purchase: Tractor Supply – $3.99
Dose Amount: (Size of Pea) Place a pea size amount on a Popsicle stick and give it
orally. **Adults, Pregnant/Nursing and Kits 7 weeks and up can be treated**
Worming Schedule: Every 6 months
Sulmet Solution: (Has to be the liquid solution)
Preventive for Coccidia
Where to purchase: Agway (Tractor Supply DOES NOT carry this) $9.99
Syringe directly out of the bottle. DO NOT Dilute.
Dose: 1cc per 2.2 lbs. for 5 days, again directly syringe out of bottle and give orally.
Treament Schedule: 1 time every year, but if showing 2 x a year
***NOTE: Only for Rabbits - 4 months and Up****
Corid - Liquid Solution 9.6%
Coccidia Treatment
Where to purchase: Local Feed Stores – (Tractor Supply doesn’t carry this 9.6%)
Dose: 5ml to 1 gallon of water. Fill up water bottles with the one gallon water jug and
continue for 30 days to kill any coccidia
This will come in handy and every breeder should have one, items listed below are
what you should have in the kit:
Feeding Syringes: 1ml Syringe, 6ml Syringe and 10ml Syringe (pics below)
Critical Care:
This is a life saver, use for when your rabbit is not eating due to an illness. You have to
syringe feed the rabbit 6ml 2 – 3 times daily to help give things moving in the GI Tract
so that the rabbit does not go into GI Stasis. GI Stasis is when a rabbit stops eating and
their stool becomes smaller and smaller. That is a big sign as well as not eating. You
have to get it eating, once the rabbit stops pooping all together it can be hard to get it
out of GI Stasis.
Where to purchase: Amazon or some vet clinics do carry this.
Red Gatorade:
This is to help prevent a rabbit from going into GI Stasis. You can use it with the Critical
Care. 6ml Syringe 2- 3 times daily, this helps keeps the fluids in the GI Tract. (Any
color Gatorade will do also) You syringe it directly in to your rabbits mouth.
Gauze Pads:
Hydrogen Peroxide: Any brand
Hydrogen Peroxide is good to have one hand for not only clean up cuts or wounds, but
also great to use on white rabbits to get urine stains or any stains in general out.
Apply a good amount to a wash cloth and wipe stained area clean!
Mineral Oil:
Any Brand can be used to treat ear mites also. Place only 2 drops into each ear 1 time
daily for a few days and also clean out each day with gauze and Q-Tips.
Where to Purchase: Mineral Oil can be purchased at a drug store
Uses – Use with Styptic Powder. Dip end of Q-Tip in water, then dip the Q-Tip in the
Styptic Powder and apply to toe nail that is bleeding.
Styptic Powder:
Use – Stops bleeding instantly if you cut nail too short. Use Q-Tip, dip end of the Q-Tip
in water and dip into the Styptic Powder and apply to nail.
Where to Purchase: Tractor Supply or Pet Store
Neomycin Oral Solution:
This is to help with Enteritis, it get rid of the bacterial in the GI Tract. Dose amount: 1ml - 1
time daily orally.
Where to purchase: Tractor Supply
**NOTE has to be the liquid**
Papaya Enzyme Tablets:
Helps keep rabbits GI Tract but most of all from wool block. You can tell when your
rabbit is digesting hair when you can see stool that is linked by hair.
Where to purchase: GNC you can get a large count for – $19.99
Dose: 1 -2 tablets - 1 time daily till you do not see linked stool. Grooming will also help
keep the rabbits from getting hair block.
Good to have on hand to place in water bottles in summer to keep rabbits hydrated and
also when a Rabbit is recovering from GI Stasis.
Where to purchase: Local Food Store or Walmart in the baby isle.
Terramycin Eye Ointment:
Used to treat eye infections: place in each eye 2 – 3 times a day till symptoms subside
Can only get online http://www.bunnyrabbit.com or from a vet.
Small Animal Nail Trimmers:
Where to purchase: Pet Stores
Digital Thermometer: (Digital only)
Normal Temperate is 101oF - 103oF. If a rabbit has a temperature higher than 103oF
you need to bring it down. That is when Rubbing Alcohol comes in handy. Place
some on the rabbits ear – the Rabbits ears is where their body regulate their body
Also pour the Rubbing Alcohol over the rabbits back. You can keep applying until
the rabbits temp is back in the normal range. You also will need to keep checking the
temp with your thermometer to make sure you don’t make your rabbits temp too low.
When it is back in the normal range no more apply the Rubbing Alcohol, just check
temp every hour. You still want to seek medical attention, anytime a rabbit has a very
high temp there is something causing it.
If the rabbits temperature is lower or very low than 101oF you need to get the rabbits
temp up by wrapping the rabbit in warm towels (place towels I dryer for a few
minutes) also heat lamp is great to help keep steady heat. Again you would want to
seek medical attention to find out what is causing the low temps or high.
If you rabbits temp drop to low the rabbit can go in to hyperthermia and their organs
will shut down. You will need to get your rabbits temperature back up to the normal
range, by using a warm towel from the dryer. Also you want to place a heating lamp
over the cage of your rabbit to make the rabbits temperature stable.
Vet Wrap: In case you need to wrap a wound
Where to purchase: Tractor Supply
Bag Balm: Used for Sore Hocks or Wounds, apply to affected
area 2-3 times daily until resolved.
Where to Purchase: Tractor Supply or any store
Dried Lavender:
Help to induce labor if a rabbit is over 32 days. For small breeds 1 tablespoon of the
Dried Lavender and you will need to mash it up in a Banana real good and let your
rabbit eat it. Dried Lavender can take up to 12 hours to induce labor. After the 12hrs is
up and nothing you can give another dose. Also use to calm rabbits.
Heat Lamp:
Heat lamp is great to have on hand in case you need warm up your bun or place babies
under to keep warm if you have to hand feed.
Where to purchase: Tractor Supply
Baking Soda: Use –also getting stains out of white rabbits. Mix Baking
Soda with Water to make a paste. Apply to the stained area on your rabbit
and let dry. Once it is dry, than brush out with a comb or brush.
Baby Gas Drops: use - Bloat in rabbits for pain and discomfort. You can
normally tell if your rabbit is in pain, if it is hunched over or grinding teeth.
Dosage: ½ of a dropper 1 x daily.
Uses- to treat urinary tract infections and rabbits prone to hutch burn, also good as a
Apple Cider Vinegar: Apple cider vinegar has many benefits for the
domestic rabbit.
Dosage: Add 1 – 2 teaspoons of Apples Cider Vinegar to water. You can give it daily or
few times a month.
Brand: Organic is the best, but any brand will do.
ACV helps reduce the ammonia smell of rabbit urine.
Boost Immune System, natural Probiotic
Prevents urinary tract problems like bladder sludge (from excess calcium),
reducing infections because the organisms cannot live in acidic urine.
Keeps the body pH regulated, clearing up any skin infections or weepy eyes.
Increases the nutrient absorption capabilities of the G.I. tract as well as helping
the whole digestive process.
Boosts fertility rates and may result in more female kits in a litter.
Makes the does more willing to breed.
Makes rabbits unattractive to fleas and mites by making the rabbit “smell” off,
making it a great repellent.
Extensive historical use and veterinary studies indicate that apple cider vinegar
added to feed or water can cure a mastitis infection and reduce the transmission
rates of the bacteria.
One part vinegar and one part water can be sprayed on [any pet's] fur and
rubbed in generously to the skin. Saturate the entire coat, and continue every day
for a few days to a week; any flea infestation will disappear.
Can be used as a cleaner for cages and crocks as well as keeping the green algae
from growing in water bottles in the summer.
Known for keeping fur softer and shinier.
If bringing your rabbit to a show or transporting them, ACV water will taste the
same as the water from home no matter what tap you use.
Rabbits like the taste of ACV and drink more water, resulting in better hydrated
It’s safe to give to pregnant does, great for rabbits at any life stage.
Adding ACV to water changes the pH level of the water, lowering the freezing
point of water (a handy benefit when you live in the mountains at 8,000 ft.
Chamomile/ Chamomile Tea:
Chamomile is great to use for a calming agent (you can get dried Chamomile at Price
Chopper) Chamomile Tea you can also for a calming agent (make the tea but stronger
than you would make for yourself and add to water bottle.
Pain refief, calm nervous rabbit, and weepy eye (combine with a little honey in a
tea/wash or compress). Uses: Feed the flowers; Make a tea with honey for an eye wash.
Medicinal Herbs for Rabbits:
ALDUR - (Alnus glutinosa) - Swelling
Uses: Green leaves used as a poultice for swellings of breast and legs.
ANISE: Increase Milk Flow – purchase at food store! Works great!
AGRIMONY - This has iron, Vitamins B and K. Digestive problems, Abscesses
Uses: Make a tea for tonic for digestive system as is a bitter. 1/4 oz. of dried herbs in a teapot with 1 point of
boiling water, wait ten minutes and then take out leaves and use tea for abscesses.
ALFALFA/LUCERENE - Kidney cleanser, nervine (nerve tonic).
ALMOND (Prunus dulcis) - Skin irritation, Sores, Lung Ailments, Sickly Young.
Uses: Nut kernels and oil. Act as a skin soothing remedy. Treats sores which refuse to heal on young animals and
others and lung ailments. Oil is good for sore eyelids and cracked noses/lips and sore teats in milking animals.
Kernels can be fed to young sickly animals - finely grated kernels. One teaspoon of grated almonds given twice
daily. For very sick animals, almonds should be blanched (skins removed by dipping in hot water), or fed extracted
oil at dose of a few drops of oil in a tablespoon of tepid milk.
ALOE (Aloe communis) - Mastitis, Skin ailments, Eye ulcers, Sores, Tumors.
Uses: As an external lotion. Some controversy over how safe aloe is for internal use (licking). Used for eye ulcers,
wounds and sores even tumors.
APPLE (Malus domestica) - Diarrhea, Constipation
Uses: Apple pulp is rich in pectin. It works in either direction, plugging up the bowels when loose or loosening them
up if constipated.
ARNICA - Paralysis, Bruising, Stiffness
Uses: POISONOUS as plant so use homeopathic tincture only. For shock – emergency: Only 1-2 drops for small
rabbits, 3-4 for large breeds.
ASPARAGUS - Reduces Milk Yield, Dries up Milk in Nursing Does, Diuretic
Uses: Can be used to reduce milk yield, used to help reduce chance of getting blockages of the kidneys and bladder
and also jaundice. Dose is a handful of raw shoots twice daily.
BALM/BEE BALM - see lemon balm
BASIL - Insect Bites, Increases Internal Warmth/Temperature, Nervous Exhaustion, Ringworm, Skin Itch, Retained
Placenta/Afterbirth, and Eye inflammation
Uses: Leaves can be rubbed on insect bites to reduce itching and inflammation. Leaves can also be taken as a
warming and uplifting tonic for nervous exhaustion or any cold condition. Mixing the juice with an equal quantity
of honey can be used for ringworm and itching skin. An infusion (tea) of Basil combined with Wood Betony can be
given immediately after birthing to prevent a retained placenta or afterbirth. Also goof for inflammation of the eyes humans and rabbits. Cautions- do not use essential oil externally or internally during pregnancy. Harvest before
BILBERRY & BLUEBERRY (Vaccinium, various species) - Diarrhea
Uses: Dried berries (fruits) help relieve diarrhea because they are rich in tannins and pectin.
BIRCH – Chewing, pain relief, anti-inflammatory, diuretic.
Uses: Sticks, twigs, and branches.
Uses: Feed 1-2 TBSP per day
BLACK CURRENT - Aids against miscarriage, Dysentery, Fevers, Bladder Problems.
Uses: Feed fruit and leaves.
BLACKBERRY – Used for pregnant does, summer cooling, stimulate appetite, diarrhea and safe introductory
green for young kits use leaves and fruit. Uses: The whole plant, fresh or dried.
BLUE COHOSH - Similar to Shepard’s Purse: Birthing trouble, inducing labor and healing after birthing.
Uses: Use sparingly, do not feed to pregnant does, unless to induce labor.
BORAGE – Mild Laxative, Increases milk flow of nursing does, helps with fevers, reduces stress.
Uses: no special notes.
BRAMBLE - Scours, Bacterial Enteritis, Diarrhea
Uses: Leaves. Check that none of the leaves show raspberry mosiac - a disease peculiar to this plant.
BURNET - Astringent, Reduce bleeding
Uses: Put on wounds. Use leaves only. Leaves do not dry well but may be picked in winter as is a hardy
creeper. Pick center leaves as outer ones are tough and unpleasant.
CALENDULA (marigold) - Burns, Wounds, Sores, Antiseptic.
Uses: This is the HOMEOPATHIC solution. It is safe for rabbits to lick.
CARAWAY - Bronchitis, Respiratory Problems, Colic
Uses: Seed and leave are appetizer and good for colic. Also good for bronchitis and respiratory problems, best to
use young plants as older plants have much less protein
CARROT (Daucus carota) - Diarrhea
Uses: Use cooked carrots, when they're cooked, carrots may soothe the digestive tract which helps control the
diarrhea while also providing nutrients that are lost.
CARNIP - Chronic bronchitis, Calming Effect
CELERY - Urinary Antiseptic
Uses: Stalks and tops only. Watch as it increases amount of urine being peed.
CHAMOMILE – Pain relief, calm nervous rabbit, and weepy eye (combine with a little honey in a tea/wash or
compress). Uses: Feed the flowers; Make a tea with honey for an eye wash
CHICKWEED – Anti-inflammatory, healing of cuts, molt, Constipation
Uses: It is full of copper but very laxative so be very careful. Use in a mixed feed when feeding generally. If used as
an eye lotion - one handful brewed in 3/4 points of water. Has white flowers and not red like Scarlet Pimpernel
(poison) which looks like it.
CHICORY - Gastritis, lack of appetite
CHIVES - Skin Trouble, Infections
Uses: Feed the green stem only.
CLEAVERS/STICKYWEED (Galium aparine) – Healing of cuts, laxative, blood cleanser, abscesses.
Uses: Feed fresh plant. Not all rabbits like it. Feed a small handful of fresh herbs finely cut and mixed with
hay twice daily. If used as a poultice, prepare as for Chamomile.
COLTSFOOT – Respiratory expectorant, Appetite Stimulant, Tonic, Laxative.
Uses: As a feed plant, laxative in quantity.
COMFREY – Healing, bone formation, ill rabbits, stressed and weak rabbits, rabbit off feed, source of vitamin A,
digestive aid, wool block, boost the immune system, good for the stomach, feed as a general tonic.
Uses: BE CAREFUL. Use with care with dwarfs as it also contains chemicals that can be dangerous as well as
being medicinal. Some breeders will use it and some will not. In extreme doses, comfrey can cause diarrhea! This is
its effects working too hard and if left unnoticed, the rabbit may dehydrate BUT IT IS SAFE WHEN used with
common sense as it possesses "Cholin", a very powerful healing agent. Great herb for sickly, stressed or weakened
bunnies. Feed both root and foliage or apply compress externally to bruised or sprained area.
DANDELION – Blood purifying, respiratory ailments, anti-inflammatory, bladder infections, diarrhea, milk flow of
nursing does, good treat for does after having a litter.
ECHINACEA - Immune system stimulant and broad spectrum antibiotic. In the lower doses it’s the stimulant and
in higher doses acts as an antibiotic. Anti-inflammatory with anti-viral properties.
EUCALYPTUS – Dried and powdered, and sprinkled repel fleas.
EYEBRIGHT – Weepy eye wash
FENNEL – Bloating, gas, milk flow of nursing does.
GARLIC – Immunize against disease, antiseptic, antibiotic, bloating and gas, wormer, respiratory expectorant.
GINGER – Infertility in bucks
GOATS RUE – Milk flow in nursing does
GOLDEN ROD – Anti-inflammatory
GRAPEFRUIT SEED EXTRACT- Wormer - 10 drops in a gallon of water for 2 weeks, coupled with raw
pumpkin seeds this mix should clean out your rabbits.
LAMBS QUARTERS- Wormer (Rabbits generally prefer it younger). Overall good green.
LAVENDER – Mild tranquilizer, circulation problems, nervous stress, exhaustion, induces labor. Use with
caution/sparingly/in extreme cases only.
LEMON BALM – Anti-bacterial, antiviral, bloating and gas, diarrhea, reduce stress.
LICORICE – Gastric inflammation, coughs.
LINSEED – Laxative helps with molting.
MARIGOLD – Bruises, slowly healing wounds, ulcers, skin diseases, digestive problems.
MARJORIM – Coughs, inflammation of mouth, throat. Digestive problems, uterine discomfort, calm nerve
MEADOWSWEET – Weepy eye wash
MILK THISLTE – Helps take ammonia from the blood and protects both the liver and the kidneys, increases milk
flow in nursing does
MINT – Firms loose stools, decreases the milk flow of does during weaning, Good herb for treating mastitis. Safe
as food for dry does and bucks DO NOT FEED to lactating does. Used for colds, eye inflammation, liver stimulant,
and used to relax the muscles of the digestive tract and stimulate bile flow so mint is useful for indigestion, gas and
colic. Avoid prolonged use; it can irritate the mucous membranes. Do not give any form of mint to young babies,
should be harvested just before flowering.
MOTHER WART – Weepy eye wash
NASTURTIUM – Strongly antiseptic
NETTLES – Increases milk flow in nursing does.
OATS – Digestive problems, diarrhea, kidney and bladder problems. Watch small kits as they may not be able to
swallow oats and may actually choke on them.
PARSLEY – Enriches the blood, urinary problems. Roots are used for constipation and obstruction of the intestines.
Good for the cure of inflammation of bladder & kidneys, digestive disorders, fertility in bucks, productivity in does.
PAPAYA - Wool block.
PINEAPPLE - Fresh Pineapple cores are good for diarrhea and wool block.
PLANTAIN – antimicrobial, antispasmodic, healing of cuts, respiratory expectorant, fevers, diarrhea, urinary tract
infections, lung infections, inflammation, sores, wounds. Safe introduction of young kits to greens.
PURSLANE - Purslane contains more Omega-3 fatty acids than any other leafy vegetable plant know of. There was
a study where they fed Purslane to rabbits with high cholesterol and it lowered it.
RASPBERRY – Prevention and treatment of kindling problems like retained afterbirth. Improves condition during
pregnancy, ensuring speedy and strong birth. Feed during the last two weeks of pregnancy as a great preventive
prenatal supplement. Also wonderful cure for digestive ailments including diarrhea, infertility in bucks, fevers, and a
safe introductory green for young kits
ROSEMARY – Lowers blood pressure, Ideal for exhaustion, weakness, and depression in rabbits. The stems and
leaves invigorate the circulation, stimulate the digestion, and are good for cold conditions.
SAGE – Dried and powdered, and sprinkled repel fleas, dry up does who’s kits have been weaned. Reduces
lactation when weaning, digestive stimulant and a uterine stimulant. This herb should be used with caution and
should be avoided during pregnancy.
SASSAFRASS – Dried and powdered, and sprinkled repel fleas.
SCOTCH PINE – bronchitis, sinusitis, neuralgia, rheumatism
SHEPHERDS PURSE – Uterine disorders, A strong medicine for diarrhea. Use sparingly.
SORREL – Very cooling and soothing, it is a much cherished treat in the summer.
STRAWBERRY – Whole plant is antiseptic and cooling. Leaves are rich in iron and are supposed to prevent
miscarriage. Externally used for inflamed areas, rashes and sore eyes.
THYME – Good for diarrhea, the stems and leaves are ideal for a useful as a digestive remedy, warming for
stomach ache, chills and associated diarrhea. Expels worms. Harvest before and during flowering in summer discard
the woody stems
WILLOW – Intestinal inflammation, willow twigs and leaves. Useful winter food easily gathered and stored. Also a
pain-reliever and possible natural coccidiostat
101 on Bunny Poop
Bunny Poops:
Average sized bunnies will make 200-300 poops per
day. They should be uniform in size and shape which
means rounded and pea to garbanzo sized. The size
of your bunny won't always predict the size of their
Healthy Poops:
They should also be friable. Friable means that they'll
have a stable form. If you apply gentle pressure and
roll them between your fingers, they'll fall apart into
something resembling sawdust as in the photo.
Bunny poops can get pretty hard as they dry out, so
test a fresh one if possible.
Inside Healthy Poops:
Once you've tested the friability of a poop, inside you
should find lots of chewed up hay. Testing them
regularly will give you a baseline for what's normal
for your bunny
Color of Poops:
Darker, more moist poops may be a sign that your
bunny is getting too much protein in their diet. The
poops in the lower left were from a bunny before a
switch from orchard grass (a 'richer' hay) to timothy
hay (upper right) after only 24 hours. After 48 hours
the poops contained even more visible chewed up
hay on their surface and continued to become
lighter brown and larger.
These poops are completely normal; usually
bunnies eat them to ensure that they get enough
protein and B vitamins in their diet. Sometimes
bunnies will make more than normal when they're
stressed or are getting too much sugar in their diet.
This is okay as long as the bunny doesn't get a
messy bottom (by sitting on the cecos) and it
doesn't happen all the time. If it does, it might be
time for a change of diet.
Sometimes cecotropes' berry-like structure can be
disrupted into individual pieces by your bunny. You'll
know them by their squishy texture, glossy surface
and odor which will intensify if the membranous
outer coating is disrupted.
Linked By Hair:
These poops are linked together by shed hair. This
isn't a problem - the spacing suggests that the
bunny's gut is working normally and the hair is
getting pushed through with all the other fiber. I
would suggest giving the bunny more fresh greens
(in addition to their free access to hay) to keep
things hydrated and moving and brush them more
regularly, but otherwise this bunny seems healthy.
When you see this happening you should start
grooming your rabbit and give the rabbit Payapa
Enzyme Tablets daily. The tablets can be found at
Double and Singles:
The 'doubles' at the top of this image occur when a
bunny's gut slows for whatever reason and 2 pills
collide during their formation creating a double
poop. These can be caused by stress or advanced
age. If your bunny starts making more then two or
three doubles (or triples) per day, it might be time to
ask your vet about a stimulant to get your bunny's
gut back to a normal pace. Their pills should be
uniform in size and shape like those at the bottom of
the image.
Small Round Poops:
Poops can become small for any number of
reasons: stress is the most common one for small
round poops. A strange noise or a stressful
experience can cause your bunny's poops to be
smaller temporarily. They should go back to normal
within a few hours. Chronically small poops can
indicate chronic pain, narrowing of the intestine or a
partial blockage and a vet visit is an order.
Small Misshape Poops:
Not eating enough. This can happen after surgery, if
your bunny's teeth are hurting, or any other reason
your bunny might not want to eat. Post-surgery, this
is a good sign - your bunny's digestive tract is
working, there just isn't a lot of food in there.
Otherwise, your bunny's poops are telling you to go
see a vet.
Mucous Covered Poops:
Mucous in poops is common after a course of
antibiotics, but can also be caused by anything that
might irritate the intestinal lining. In this case, the
bunny ate her first piece of parsley ever with such
gusto that she forgot to chew. Similarly other large
or irritating masses might be encased in mucous.
Mucous might be present for parasites or other very
serious disorders like cecal impaction. A consult
with a veterinarian is advised if you observe mucous
in your rabbit's poops.
True diarrhea is very rare in rabbits and is cause for
alarm. Rabbits with diarrhea may be infected with
deadly parasites or possibly have been exposed to
poisons. Very young rabbits with watery runny
stools may have been weaned before they're ready.
Regardless of the age of any rabbit with diarrhea,
getting them to a vet as soon as possible should be
first priority. If it's an option, bring some of the runny
stool for your vet to examine.
*IMPORTANT: I am summarizing this disease to the BEST of my knowledge and findings. The
information below has been gathered through personal experience, countless articles, and
conversations/studies via Veterinary Specialists. I am NOT an expert by any means – This
article is intended to provide a simplified reference to a disease commonly seen in Lagomorphs.*
What exactly IS Enteritis?
The term Enteritis (also referred to as bloat, Mucoid Enteritis, Mucoid Enteropathy) in
itself is a bit vague, literally translating to ‘inflammation of the gut’. It’s a serious
condition in which digestive processes have either slowed down greatly, or stopped
completely. If it is not taken care of fast, the rabbit’s system will become plagued with
Toxemia, and will most likely shut down entirely, resulting in death. Mucoid
Enteropathy is bloat coupled with a gelatin-like feces. Those who have experienced this
type of Enteritis in their barn can smell it from a mile away. The stench is unimaginable.
Because of the excessive diarrhea, it is ESSENTIAL to keep infected rabbits hydrated –
Sub Qs are the most efficient way to do this (but we’ll get to that later).
“The mucoid enteropathy is an acute mortal disease of rabbits, characterized by signs of
dehydration, bloating of the abdomen, and a gelatin like secretion in the feces. Rabbits
with 3-10 weeks of age are the most frequently affected animals.”
Targeted Ages:
Juniors under 6 months old
Nursing does
Off feed/water
Bloated abdomen
Sloshing noises in gut
Little/no stools
Jelly-like diarrhea or diarrhea in general
Grinding teeth (pain)
It’s hard to pinpoint the exact cause of a given outbreak. We do know, however, it is
USUALLY either Bacterial or Protozoal, so it’s extremely important to treat for both
organisms. Potential causes could include (but aren’t limited to) stress (especially in
weanlings and nursing does), Bacterial or Protozoal contamination through feed, hay,
or other ingested supplements, or airborne pathogens. PLEASE NOTE: Enteritis is
contagious to the age groups targeted. It is not unlikely for a rabbit to spread it to cagemates/stacker-mates. It’s important to practice strict quarantining methods should
Enteritis affect ANY rabbit in your herd.
Necropsy Results:
Personal findings (Courtesy of Dr. Joy Lucas, Saratoga Springs, NY):
Lesions lining the intestinal tract (Thought to be caused by gelatin like substance
intoxicating the intestinal tract – The TOXINS are what kill the rabbit)
Other findings (Courtesy of Dr. Jay Hreiz, ARBA Judge #789):
Enlarged Liver
Nodules on Liver
Enlarged Gallbladder
I cannot reiterate enough HOW important it is to prepare your Bunny Medicine Cabinet
ahead of time, as time is of the essence when a Bacterial or Protozoal strain hits your
Rabbitry. The moment Enteritis rears its ugly head, treatment begins. Not a minute
later. As mentioned in the previous post What IS Enteritis?, the instigating organism
which produces Mucoid Enteritis symptoms is usually either Bacterial (such as C.
Spiroforme or Pastuerella Multocida Bacterin) or Protozoal (which may include various
forms of Coccidiosis – one of the 12 species of Eimeria). As you can imagine, it is crucial
to treat for both if the instigating organism is not determined. (NOTE: “Intestinal
coccidiosis is the most common presentation noted by rabbit breeders and can be
diagnosed with fecal flotation at most small animal veterinary clinics” – Dr. Jay Hreiz,
‘Protozoal Pests: Coccidiosis‘ VMD – Veterinarian and ARBA Judge #789). Many
breeders do not have Veterinarians who are familiar with these infections, however, so
as a result, breeders choose to treat their herds themselves.
We have had positive results using the following list of treatments. I’m not stating that
these are the ONLY remedies however, we managed to save quite a few lives once we
realized how to pinpoint and eliminate certain organisms with certain medications.
With Enteritis I STRONGLY advice AGAINST homeopathic remedies, Mucoid
Enteropathy is fast-moving, and the weaker the concoction, the longer it will take to
relieve symptoms and kill the organism.
**Toltrazuril 200 mL Baycox - 2.5-5mg/kg for first 3 days. Once 3 days are complete
switch to Albon - horseprerace.com a coccidiocide.
Sulfamethoxine (Albon) – 0.7 cc/lb 2x/day for 10 days. Must be prescribed by your
Veterinarian, a coccidiostat.
Metronidazole – 0.5cc/lb* 1x/day for 10 days. (*Could vary by prescribed strength) Vet
prescribed only.
Sub Q Fluids – Hydration varies between cases. 2x/day until symptoms subside. Sub
Qs must be prescribed /given by your Veterinarian.
Oxbow Critical Care – 1 part Critical Care to 3 parts warm water daily until
symptoms subside. Amazon.com or you vet can carry it.
Probios Equine One Gel, 30g (Remember to supplement with Probiotics when
administering an Antibiotic). tractorsupplycompany.com
**Only administer Toltrazuril in place of Albon, or another Coccidiostat/cide, as it is
unnecessary to treat with 2 Coccidiostats/cides in the presence of an outbreak.
Additional Treatments (should it be difficult to obtain the ones mentioned above):
Neomycin Sulfate – 30mg/kg/day/rabbit until symptoms subside. (Substitute for
Metronidazole). This may vary for weanlings. bunnyrabbit.com
Amprolium 9.6% (Corid) – water treatment: 5ml/gallon for 30day (Replaces Albon but
not nearly as strong), can be found in agricultural stores AND on Amazon.com and
While treating for Enteritis, pull pellets from their diets completely (until symptoms
subside), and push extra hay. Fiber is crucial for your rabbits’ weakened gastric
tracts. Also, quarantine any infected bunnies until AT LEAST one week after
symptoms have subsided entirely.
Baby gas drops can be given for pain (should your bunnies be exhibiting teeth grinding,
or any other signs of grave discomfort). Dosages vary depending on brand.
It’s fundamental to treat the rest of your herd for Coccidiosis at the time of an
outbreak as well. Dose their water bottles with Corid (5cc/gallon for 30days) or
Sulmet (12.5% Sodium Sulfamethazine) – These recommended dosages came from
bunnyrabbit.com. Please Note: Recommended preventative treatments are
CoccidioSTATS, not CoccidioCIDES, meaning they do not eliminate the pathogen
entirely, rather, inhibit replica while the rabbit gains immunity.
We’ll go into greater detail on prevention options for your herd in future posts: Soluble
solutions (Coccidiostats/Coccidiocides), disinfection (products/practices), and
quarantine methods. Posted in Rabbit Health Tagged bunnies, enteritis, medications,
prevention, rabbits, remedies
*Additional Information found online*
Gentamicin Sulfate Ophthalmic Solution - To treat weepy eye (for white rabbits due
to non-staining of fur/wool) apply meds 2-3 times a day until resolved.
Terramyacin Powder – Antibiotics that are safe for rabbits, 1 tsp to 1 gallon of water for
3-5 days (may have changed names to Duramyacin)
Piperzine Liquid – Follow directions on bottle (4 Drops per pound orally) twice a year,
treat intestinal parasites.
Timothy Hay – Should be given every day or once a week if molting
CLEAN ‘N GROOM – Great coat cleaner, removes Dirt and Stains from
1c Vinegar & 2 Tbsp. Listerine – Spray coat and feet to remove urine stains – can be
Hemorrhoid Ointment – Used for sore hocks or wounds, apply to affected foot twice
daily until resolved.
Bounce Back – 1 to 2 Tbsp. per gallon of water for shows or 1 Tbsp per 1/2c of warm
water for diarrhea, not eating or in times of stress.
Penicillin G Procaine Ointment – To treat vent disease, apply on genitals twice daily
for 3-5 days.
Penicillin G Procaine Injectable – To treat vent disease, 0.1ml orally or twice daily for
3-5 days
QXY-GEN – Give ¼ to ½ ounce over the food for 3 days to stimulate older does to have
a more abundant litter
NUTRI-CAL – Give a pea size amount orally 2-3 times daily for rabbits that are
underweight or to stimulate appetite
Calf Manna – For underweight rabbits, place 1 tsp over the feed until desired weight is
achieved, great to give Pregnant, Nursing and Kits.
Sweet PDZ – In Granular from, sprinkle a small amount in the bottom of cage trays to
eliminate ammonia odor and absorbs moisture.
Pineapple Juice – Orally to promote eating
Sexing your Rabbit
Posted on January 3, 2013 by MAD HATTER RABBITS
We welcomed a litter of Silver Marten babies yesterday! It’s so exciting to see those little
ones wiggling around and mama so proud!
Earlier this year I saw a post on a rabbit group claiming you can sex a rabbit at birth. I
had never heard of this, so I’ve decided to try it with this newborn litter and see how it
turns out in the end.
Traditionally, you need to wait until the rabbits are about six weeks or older to see if
you’ve got a male or female. To check this, turn the rabbit over on its back and clasp the
base of the tail between your second and third fingers. Using your thumb on the same
hand, press down at the top of the genital area. This will cause the area to open and you
will see a slit opening for a doe and a round opening for a buck.
Older bucks protrude a lot – there can be no doubt you’re looking at a penis! Another
clue is whether testicles have descended, they would be located on either side of the
genital area. The funniest thing I’ve read is about a gal who was too embarrassed to sex
her rabbits and would sneak out at night with a flashlight to shine under the cage and
try to catch a glimpse of testicles!
The post I read recently claims you can sex your rabbits at birth! They posted the
following picture and explanation:
“Both pictures of a buck, the one on the left is actual the one on the right is marked in red to make it a little easier to see. There is
a little bit of a gap between the penile opening and the anus. This will not be present in the newborn doe.”
According to our observations last night of the newborns, we believe we have three
does and three bucks. We have put a mark with sharpie on the left ear for our buck
guesses and the right ear for our doe guesses. Now it’s just a matter of time to see if we
guessed right! I’ll be sure to update and let you know!
“This is a doe. The anus and vent will be touching.”
** Note** - I have tried this myself and it does work! I will would check them still at 3-4
weeks to be 100% sure.
My Safe and Non-Safe Food List:
Safe Foods: (All Fruit & Carrots should be fed as a treat only)
Agrimony • Apple (Not the seeds) • Artichoke leaves • Asparagus • Avens
Balm • Banana • Barley • Basil • Beetroot • Blackberries and leaves • Blueberries •
Borage • Broccoli (flower, stem & leaves purple sprouting type too) • Buckwheat •
Calendula • Chamomile • Caraway • Carrot • Celery • Celeriac • Chervil • Chicory •
Chickweed • Chinese Leaf • Cleavers • Clover (white) • Coltsfoot • Coriander • Cow
Parsnip • Courgette • Crosswort •Cucumber
Dandelion • Dill • Dock (Before Flowering)
Fat Hen • Fennel
Goosefoot • Goosegrass • Goutweed (Before Flowering) • Grapes • Ground Elder
(Before Flowering)
Hawkbit • Hawkweed • Heather • Hedge Parsley • Horseradish
Kiwi Fruit • Knapweed • Knotgrass • Kohlrabi
Lavender • Lovage
Mallow • Mango • Marjoram • Mayweed • Maywort • Meadowsweet • Melon • Milk
Thistle • Mint (not the candy) • Mugwort
Nectarines • Nettles (Dead ones only) • Nipplewort
Oats • Orache • Oranges (Not the Peel) • Oregano • Oxeye Daisy
Papaya • Parsley • Parsnip • Peas (Including leaves and pods) • Pear (Not seeds) •
Peppermint • Peppers (Green, Yellow and Red) • Pigweed • Pineapple • Plantain •
Radish (Tops Only) • Raspberries and leaves • Rosemary • Rocket
Sage • Savory • Sanfoin • Shepherd’s Purse • Silverweed • Sow Thistle • Soya •
Spring Greens •
Strawberries and leaves • Swiss chard
Tara • Thyme • Tomatoes (Not the leaves) • Trefoil
Vetch • Vine leaves
Watercress • Watermelon • Wheat
ALL Fruits • Brussels sprouts • Cauliflower • Groundsel • Kale • Romaine Lettuce •
Molasses • Mustard greens • Spinach • Tallow • Turnip
Peaches • Cherries • Plums • Apricot
Aster • Carnation • Daisy • Geranium • Geum • Helenium • Hollyhock • Honesty •
Marguerite • Marigold • Michaelmas Daisy • Nasturtium • Rose • Stock • Sunflower
• Wall Flower
(Mainly Anything That Grows From a Bulb Is Unsafe)
Acacia • Aconite • Antirrhinum • Anemone • Brugmansia • Columbine • Crocus •
Daffodil • Dahlia •• Love-in-a-mist • Lupin • Narcissus • Poppy • Primrose •
Snowdrop • Tulip
Arum • Bigwort • Bindweed • Bluebell • Bryony • Buttercup • Celandine • Clover
RED • Cabbage • Colchicum • Cowslip • Cuckoo Pint • Dog’s Mercury • Elder •
Euphorbia • Evergreens • Fool’s Parsley • Foxglove • Ground Ivy • Hemlock •
Henbane • Iceberg Lettuce • Kingcup • Meadow Saffron • Milkweed (Very Deadly) •
Nightshade • Ragwort • Scarlet Pimpernel • Spurge • Toadflax • Tomato Leaves •
Traveller’s Joy • Green Beans • Peach Leaves • Plum Leaves •
Potato (All kinds) • Rhubarb •Wood Sorrel
*Never Feed Rabbits Grass/Lawn Cuttings – The grass ferments quickly and can be
extremely harmful*
If you wish for your bun to eat some grass take them outside on a harness and let them
enjoy it for a bit
(Should always be fresh young leaves)
Apple • Birch • Blackberry • Hazel • Horse Chestnut • Lime • Mountain Ash •
Mulberry • Pear •Poplar (Not Black) • Raspberry • Strawberry
Apple • Birch • Blackberry • Fir • Hazel • Hawthorn • Maple • Pear • Raspberry •
Spruce • Willow
(Anything that Produces Fruit with a Stone)
Apricot • Cherry • Peach • Plum • Cedar
As Well As…
Acacia • Azalea • Beech • Box • Clematis • Elder • Holly • Ivy • Laburnum •
Mistletoe • Nux Vomica •Oak • Oleander • Periwinkle • Privet • Rhododendron •
Rosewood • Snowberry • Spindleberry • Thorn Apple • Waxplant • Wisteria • Yew
All Evergreens not mentioned in safe twig list.
Bacterial Infection
Enlargements under
skin near jaw. Can
occur on other parts of
where there are
wounds or scratches.
Eliminate sharp
objects that can
injure the rabbit.
Cake Mammary
Milk production
is in excess of
utilization. Too
fee young or the
young are not
Five different
species of
protozoa (one
celled animals) can
injure the bile
ducts, intestines
or cecum.
One or more of the
mammary glands may
become swollen, hot
and firm. Often
mistaken for mastitis.
Reduce ration by
one-half the day
the doe kindles
and gradually
increase to full
feed in 7 days.
Keep pens clean
and prevent fecal
contamination of
feed and water.
Use wire floor
Affects primarily
young rabbits. In
severe cases,
symptoms are
diarrhea, loss of flesh,
pot belly, loss of
appetite, rough fur
Clip the fur around
abscess, than lance and
remove the puss.
Disinfect with peroxide
and use an approved
antibiotic ointment or
powder to promote
Relieve some congestion
by partial milking.
Massage gland with an
Sulfaquinoxaline in food
or drinking water
continuously for 2weeks.
“Weepy Eye”
Inflammation of
eye lid. Can result
from irritation by
dust, sprays, and
fumes or by
Ear Canker
Ear Mite
Likely caused by
coccidiosis or
other intestinal
inflammation. In
young rabbits
“greens” will
cause diarrhea.
Thought to result
from an irritant, a
toxin or other
stress factors such
as dietary
antibiotics and
travel stresses.
Not thought to be
Several types of
Eye Infection
Fur Block
“Hair Ball”
Rabbits ingest a
large amount of
its own hair or
that from another
rabbit in a short
period of time.
Excessive tear
formation and fluid
runs down check.
Rabbit rubs eye with
its front feet which
further aggravates the
condition. Rabbits with
snuffles frequently
have “Weepy Eye”.
Scabs or a crust start
forming at base of
inner ear. Mites cause
considerable irritation
and rabbit will shake
its head and try to
scratch ears with hind
A water diarrhea may
be only symptom
sources (dust,
dirt) of irritation.
affected rabbits.
Use a commercial eyewashing product to
remove dust, dirt or
other foreign object. In
inflammation persists,
an ophthalmic ointment
containing antibiotics
may be helpful.
Do not let
rabbits in contact
with rabbits that
have ear canker.
Use a cotton swab to
apply mineral,
vegetable or olive oil
over all visible crust.
Usually one or two
treatment is sufficient.
Develop a
program to
coccidiosis. Do
not feed
“greens” to
Keep rabbits
comfortable and
encourage feed
consumption. A
medicated or vitamin
fortified feed may be
Characterized by subnormal body
temperature, loss of
appetite, tooth
grinding depression,
rough fur coat,
dehydration, bloated
abdomen and diarrhea
containing mucus
The eyes of baby
rabbits may stick shut
and pus around the
eye may be noticed.
Rabbit will
sporadically eat small
amounts of feed. A
firm mass can be
palpated in the
Prevent or
reduce stress
factors and have
strict sanitation
of hutches,
feeding and
No successful treatment
known, but mortality
may be slightly reduced
by feeding a medicated
or vitamin fortified
food. Eliminate all
affected rabbits, and
purchase breeding stock
that is free of the
Apply an antibacterial
ophthalmic eye
Prevent cold
drafts and other
stress conditions.
Fur block is
noted more often
in Angoras
An oral dose of ½ oz.
mineral oil may be
effective. If the fur block
is too large, surgical
removal is necessary.
Fungus Infection
A dry scaly skin
(dandruff) on the
shoulders and back.
Prevent contact
with affected
Heat Exhausted
Excessively high
(above 85º F) and
high humidity
(above 70º F),
obesity, poor
insufficient water
and crowding.
associated with
wet and dirty
hutches. Urine
and fecal material
cause the skin to
become irritated
and infected.
Obesity, large
litter, lack of
Increased respiration
rate (panting)
prostration, and
excessive saliva discharge. Pregnant does
and young in the nest
box are most
Provide shade,
adequate air
movement, and
plenty of cool
water on a hot
day. Wet burlap
in cage will aid
in cooling.
Usually, a brownish
crust covers the
infected area and
bleeding exudate may
be seen.
Do not allow
fecal material to
accumulate in
the hutch.
Clean affected skin with
a germicidal soap and
keep the area clean.
Usually occurs just
before or just after
kindling. Does go off
feed and will not eat.
Obesity can be
prevented by limiting
feed to 4 to 6 oz. daily
for does.
“Blue Breast”
A bacterial
infection in the
mammary gland
caused by an
injury from the
nest box, cage or
a bit from nursing
The mammary gland
will become red in
color, swollen, tender
and dark blue streaks
may appear.
“Buck Teeth”
An inherited
characterized by
excessive growth
of the front teeth.
Lower teeth protrude
and upper teeth curve
into mouth.
Prevent young
does from
getting too fat
and make sure
the does are
eating at
kindling time.
Reduce any
chance of injury
to mammary
gland as the doe
enters the nest
box. Do not
transfer the
young to another
lactating doe.
Do not use
rabbits with
“Buck Teeth “for
Hutch Burn
Apply tolnaftate to
affect area. Other
medications are
Rabbits suffering from
heat exhaustion can be
immersed in lukewarm
water to reduce body
temperature to the
normal 101-104ºF.
Apply a cool compress
to the ears.
Penicillin is effective
against staphylococcus
or streptococcus
Teeth on young rabbits
can be trimmed and
adults as well. Will
always require their
teeth trimmed.
A chronic upper
ailment caused
by bacterial
Typical early signs are
nasal discharge,
watery eyes, head
shaking, sneezing or
rattling noise in
breathing and a loss of
weight. Continual
infection may cause
rabbits to become
A bacteria or
virus infection
associated with
other respiratory
disease or stress
factors such as
damp drafty
A fungus
infection that can
appear on any
part of the body
but most often
will occur on the
head. This fungus
infection can be
transmitted to
Several members
of the Salmonella
group of bacteria
can affect rabbits.
An infestation of
mites that burrow
through the skin
and cause
irritation. Mange
mites that affect
dogs can cats can
infect rabbits.
Elevated temperatures,
labored breathing,
nasal discharge and
loss of appetite are
Skin Mange
Quarantine all
There is not cure for
new rabbits for
30 days. Cull
“Snuffles” Blood testing
rabbits that show and cultures should be
taken for accurate
symptoms of the
disease. Reduce
You can treat the
stress factors and symptoms of Snuffles to
have good
decrease symptoms but
management and rabbits will always carry
it and can still pass it.
Control of
Treatment may vary
depending upon the
reduces chances
causative agent. A
of pneumonia.
broad spectrum
Eliminate drafts
antibiotic may be
and wet
Loss of hair in circular
patches. A yellowish
crust forms and
sloughs off in about 3
weeks. If infection goes
scratching will occur.
Do not allow
infected rabbit in
contact with
other rabbits.
Wear gloves
when handling
the infected
Clip the fur around
affected area and treat
with toinaflate. Other
medications are
General symptoms are
diarrhea, loss of
weight, conjunctivitis,
and rapid breathing.
There will be some loss
of hair, scaly skin and
intense itching and
Good husbandry
practices and a
quarantine of
any new rabbits.
Infected rabbits
should be
separated and
treated. The
premises should
be disinfected.
Tetracycline in the feed
may be effective.
Dust with an insecticide
approved for the
purpose. Treatment
should be repeated in 7
Sore Hocks
“Vent Disease”
Tyzzers Disease
A bruised or
infected area on
the under-surface
of the hock joint.
Related stress
factors are a dirty
hutch, rough
surfaces on the
floor, or a floor
constructed with
the wrong size
Infection by a
spirochete and
can be
transmitted by
A bacterial
infection usually
associated with
stress conditions
and poor
The growth of the
botfly larvae
under the skin
Scabs usually appear
on the bottom of the
rear feet. Pad and toes
of the front feet may
become infected.
Nervous and heavy
rabbits are more
susceptible to the sore
hock condition.
Do not let wet
litter and
Eliminate sharp
objects on the
Wash the hock with a
germicidal soap and
apply antiseptic such as
tincture of iodine or Bag
Blisters or scabs occur
on the sex glands.
Always check
the breeders
before mating.
Isolate all new
The best
measures are
clean stock and
good husbandry
Screen the area
to keep the
botfly away from
the rabbit.
Injection of penicillin is
the best treatment. Do
not breed until all
lesions disappear.
The acute form results
with diarrhea
dehydration and death
within 48 hours.
Warbles can be
observed as
enlargements under
the skin with a small
hole in the center. The
condition is painful
and the rabbit may lick
the area.
Treatment with
antibiotics is not very
Remove the larvae
without crushing it.
Apply Vaseline to
smother the larvae.
Clean the wound with a
germicidal soap or
apply an antibiotic or
ointment to prevent
**Ask your local veterinarian for dosage levels when using antibiotics and for the names
of antibiotics powders and ointments.
**When antibiotics are a part of the treatment program, follow the withdrawal period of
the medication if the animal is going to be used for food.
**This information on diseases and treatment was reviewed by Dr. David J. Black
University of Tennessee, College of Veterinary Medicine; and by Dr. T.J. Lane,
University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine.