English 2173 ® 1/4 ABOUT THIS PATTERN HOW TO FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE Welcome to a Learn to Sew crafts! Creating crafts is fun and exciting, especially since we provide easy to sew instructions for the beginner sewer. However, if you enjoy making crafts, then these projects can be for anyone. This pattern is multi-sized for the aprons, which means that all of the available sizes for either the Child’s sizes or the Girls’ sizes are in one pattern. Since there are four or ﬁve different sizes included, there are four or ﬁve cutting lines, one for each size. Look closely and you’ll see that each cutting line is labelled for the size you are going to use. The pot holder is one size. Finished Projects This pattern is based on the waist body measurement; each numbered size (3,4,5,6,7,8,10,12,14) is designed to ﬁt a certain waist measurement. Follow these simple steps to pick the pattern size you’ll need to make: • Have a parent or friend take a tape measure and measure your waist. To ﬁnd you natural waistline, tie a string snugly around the waist. Or, just bend sideways. The crease that forms is the waist. After the fabric is washed and dried, iron out the wrinkles with an iron so that it’s as smooth and ﬂat as your pattern piece. Check the temperature settings on iron for the fabric you have purchased. Again, make sure you have supervision, especially since you’ll need a hotter iron for fabric than for the tissue paper. Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, matching up the selvages and the cut edges and the RIGHT sides of the fabric facing each other. HOW TO CUT OUT YOUR APRON AND POT HOLDER Pattern Guide TIP: Once you pick the size you’re going to make, take a felt-tip marker in a bright color and trace along the cutting line for that size – it’ll be easier to follow along and you’ll be 100% sure you cut the line you meant to! A B PATTERN PRINTED SIDE UP The arrow printed on the pattern piece is the straight grain line. Grain lines are printed on patterns as a straight or curved line to show where on the fabric each piece should be placed. Most of the time the arrow should line up with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. D 3 BIB 1 APRON F Lengthwise Fold- Fold the fabric with RIGHT sides together and selvages are even. HOW TO PREP THE PATTERN E When you ﬁrst open up the pattern tissue, you’ll see that it comes in one big piece of paper, with the pattern shape printed in the middle. Cutting away the extra tissue will make the pattern piece much easier to work with. Cut just outside the biggest cutting line, and then throw out the extra; you won’t need it anymore. Next you’ll have to smooth out your pattern so that it’s nice and ﬂat. 8 pieces given 6 2 • The following indicates the various ways how the fabric is folded in the Cutting Layouts: • Look for your Waist measurement on the back of the envelope. Now follow column on the back of the envelope to ﬁnd the Simplicity Pattern numbered size that goes with your waist measurement. This is the size you’ll cut and sew. C PATTERN PRINTED SIDE DOWN Two Lengthwise Folds- Fold the fabric with RIGHT sides together so the selvages meet at or near the center. SELVAGE 3 CROSSWISE GRAIN 1 7 4 8 LENGTHWISE GRAIN 5 SELVAGE 1-APRON -A,B,C,D,E 5-WAIST TIE -A,C,D 2-POCKET -A,B,C,D,E 6-POT HOLDER -F 3-BIB -A,B,C 7-LOOP -F 4-NECK TIE -A,C 8-PADDING -F SUPER EASY APRONS AND POT HOLDER-LEARN TO SEW THEM YOURSELF What You’ll Need: • Tape Measure • Sewing Machine • Straight Pins • Thread • Iron • Ironing Board • Fabric Scissors • Ruler • Safety Pin • Hand Sewing Needle • Felt Tip Marker or Highlighter • Washable Fabric Marking Pen or Pencil or Chalk • Seam Ripper Q: How do I know how to ﬁnd lengthwise grain on my fabric? A: Look at your piece of fabric – there are two edges that look ﬁnished and don’t come apart. These edges are called the selvages, which are formed during fabric weaving. Lengthwise grain runs in line with the selvages. Crosswise grain runs perpendicular or vertical to the selvage. Q: What are these other markings on the pattern? A: On the pattern pieces like this one, you’ll ﬁnd directions in words and symbols such as lines, notches and arrows. Look at your pattern and check off each of these items as you ﬁnd them: Center line is printed on some pattern pieces as a broken and dotted line. It can be the center front or center back and it is used for matching pieces together. Dots are either small or large circular markings which are used for matching pieces together. Solid lines show where to position pockets or where to fold the fabric. Stitching lines are broken lines on the pattern piece to show you where to stitch. Besides understanding the markings, there is also written information you need to know when sewing your project, such as hem allowance or name of piece. Always keep the pattern and piece that you have cut out and marked together, so when you are sewing your project you can to refer to the pattern for this information. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. Single Thickness- Fabric is placed RIGHT side up. Q: Why do I need to smooth out the pattern, and how do I do it? A: If the pattern is wrinkled, the shape of the piece gets distorted, and then won’t be the exact shape you need to make perfect project. Get it nice and smooth by taking a warm, dry iron and ironing the tissue – make sure that you have supervision before using an iron! LEARN TO SEW TIP: Make sure that there is no water in the tank of the iron, and that the dial on the iron isn’t set to give off steam – pattern tissue doesn’t hold up well when wet! Combination of Lengthwise Fold and Single Thickness- Fold the fabric with RIGHT sides together so one selvage is at a certain position and remaining fabric is single thickness. HOW TO PREP THE FABRIC Treat your fabric the same way you would treat your ﬁnished apron– wash and dry it before you cut anything out. Q: What’s the point of pre-washing the fabric? A: Many fabrics, especially cottons, tend to shrink after they’re washed and dried by machine. If you make your project ﬁrst and then put it through the laundry, you could wind up with shrunken project that doesn’t ﬁt or too small to use. Pre-washing the fabric at the beginning avoids any unpleasant surprises later! • Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as follows: For Fold Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the fold grain line along the fold as indicated in the Cutting Layouts. For Straight Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the straight grain line parallel to the selvage as indicated in the Cutting Layouts. Measure the distance from both ends of the straight grain line arrow on the pattern to the selvages. When it’s lined up exactly, pin the pattern at the grain line arrows. You’ll have to turn some of the pattern pieces over and place on fabric with printed side down so that top edge of all pieces lay in one direction. This is necessary if fabric has a design going in one direction. English 2173 2/4 SELS. D CONTRAST TIES Your ﬁnal Cutting Layout should look like this one printed below: USE PIECE 5 5 44" 45" (115CM) ALL SIZES 4 SINGLE THICKNESS USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 3 4 5 6 3 SEL. 5 1 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP FOLD SEL. 2 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES 3 5 OPTIONAL: PIECE 7 CAN BE CUT OF RIBBON OR FABRIC AS SHOWN IN CUTTING LAYOUT FOLD 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 3 4 5 6 HOW TO TRANSFER MARKINGS 6 SEL. FOLD B- USE PIECES 1 2 3 CUT TWO OF PIECE 4 FROM RIBBON CUT ONE PIECE OF RIBBON FOUR TIMES THE LENGTH OF PIECE 5 C- USE PIECES 1 3 HEAT RESISTANT FLEECE EDGE USE PIECE 8 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP 60" (153CM) SIZES 7 8 10 12 14 ALL SIZES CUT ONE OF PIECE 2 SELVAGE SELVAGES 3 2 7 B,C APRON- INCLUDING B POCKET 3 Snip edge of fabric at the center front line on the bib or at the center fold or fold line that appear on the other pattern pieces. This is a quick way to indicate the markings on the pattern pieces, but snipping the fabric is not done for all markings. USE PIECES 6 7 1 SEL. 8 2 SEL. 8 2 3 FOLD FOLD SEL. C CONTRAST POCKET AND TIES SINGLE THICKNESS USE PIECES 2 4 5 44" 45" (115CM) SELS. WITH NAP ALL SIZES 5 FOLD 2 4 SEL. D,E APRON- INCLUDING D POCKET SELVAGE D- USE PIECES 1 2 2 E- USE PIECE 1 CUT ONE PIECE OF RIBBON FOUR TIMES THE LENGTH OF PIECE 5 EDGE Q: Why do I have to transfer markings? A: Markings such as small dots are matching or placement points and are transferred from the pattern tissue to wrong side of fabric. Pin Marking Method- Stick straight pins through the pattern tissue and both fabric layers at the ends and corners of solid lines, at the ends of stitching lines or at the small and large dots. When you turn the fabric over to the other side, you will see the pins poking out through the WRONG side of the fabric. For dots, make a small circle on WRONG side of fabric at pin point. For stitching lines or solid lines, take a ruler and a washable fabric pen or pencil or chalk and draw straight lines connecting the pin points on the WRONG side of fabric. Then remove pins that are holding the pattern and fabric together lifting the pattern piece carefully at the pin heads. Mark the dots and stitching lines on the remaining WRONG side of fabric at the pin heads; then remove the pins. You do not have to transfer the pocket line on pattern piece 1 to the remaining WRONG side of fabric. The pocket line is for the RIGHT half of the apron. FOLD 1 1 FLEECE SEL. F POT HOLDER SELVAGES 4 WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC 1. Fold 1/4” (6mm) on the upper edge of the pocket to the WRONG side of the fabric and press the fold with an iron to hold it in place. REMINDER: Check the temperature setting for the fabric you have purchased. BIB SEL. SINGLE THICKNESS SIZES 7 8 10 12 14 3 USE PIECE 2 2 SEL. WITH NAP RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC HOW TO SEW THE APRONS FOR VIEWS A, B, C, D, E SEL. E CONTRAST POCKET SELVAGE 3 FOLD ALL SIZES 44" 45" (115CM) Fabric Guide WITH NAP SEL. SINGLE THICKNESS A APRON LEARN TO SEW TIP: Make sure that you keep your fabric as ﬂat as possible while cutting out the pattern shape. It may be tempting to pick it up, but don’t! The weight of the fabric drags it down, and the cutting line will shift out of shape. You’ll wind up cutting along a line that isn’t accurate and a shape that isn’t exact, which will make it really hard to get a good ﬁnished result. SEL. • Pin and cut out pattern pieces from fabric as follows: Using straight pins, pin the pattern to the fabric – stick the pin all the way through all thicknesses, pattern tissue and two fabric layers. Bring the pin point back up through all layers; this will keep the layers together. Start pinning at the middle of each side and work your way to the corners, smoothing the tissue as you go to avoid bubbles and wrinkles. Q: How should I place each pin, and how far apart should they be? A: Place each pin just inside the cutting line you’ll be using, with each pin in line with the printed line – this will keep them out of the way during cutting. Pins are best placed about 3”(7.5cm) to 4” (10cm) apart, with pins closer together where you have curves or corners. Cut out the pattern shapes, cutting along the highlighted cutting line. Use sharp scissors and position them so that the pattern shape is on the side that you’re cutting, and the fabric you’re cutting away is on the other side of the scissors. For example, if you cut with your right hand, the pattern should be on the right side of your scissors, and the extra fabric on the left; if you use left handed scissors, the opposite will be the case. 1 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 FOLD 2. Fold the upper edge of the pocket to the RIGHT side of the fabric along the fold line, forming a pocket facing. Pin. Starting at the fold, stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) away from the cut edges. This 5/8” (1.5cm) is the seam allowance which will be the same amount for the seams, unless instructed otherwise. Trim the seam allowance in the facing area to 1/4” (6mm). 3. Turn the facing to the WRONG side, pushing the corners RIGHT side out with a pin or a point turner, but do it gently. You do not want any holes in the corners. Then fold the side and lower edges along the stitchings to the WRONG side. Press these folds and the facing with an iron. Machine-stitch close to the inner pressed edge of facing. PIN PIN Hand-Basting Method- NOW you will have to transfer pocket lines and stitching lines to the RIGHT side of the fabric by handbasting. Basting may take a little extra time in the beginning, but it’s worth the effort in the end. Hand-baste along the marking lines on the WRONG side of fabric. Basting stitches are formed by simply pulling the needle and thread in and out of the fabric in approximately 1/2” (1.3cm) long stitches. Remove the hand-basting when the project is completed with a seam ripper. The point on the seam ripper is very sharp so be very careful using this tool. 4. On the OUTSIDE, pin pocket to the RIGHT half of apron along the pocket lines. Make sure the edges of the pocket are along the marked lines. Starting at the top side edge of pocket, take two or three machine-stitches, then back-stitch two or three stitches by touching the reverse button on your machine. Continue stitching close to the side and lower edges, then back-stitch again on the other side of the pocket. SEL. 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 12 14 SINGLE THICKNESS 1 APRON SELVAGES 1 2 SEL. FOLD © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. Q: Why do I have to back-stitch? A: Back-stitching secures the stitching in areas that get a lot of use when wearing. LEARN TO SEW TIP- If you feel uncomfortable sewing over pins, you can either remove the pins as you are sewing on the machine or hand-baste close to the side and lower edges of pocket in place. Remove the hand-basting after the pocket is stitched in place. English 2173 3/4 HOW TO HEM THE EDGES AND MAKE A CASING 5. Press up the hem allowance on side edges of apron, forming a crease. Open out hem. Then bring raw edge to crease. Press. Press up the side edge again along the crease. Stitch close to the inner pressed edge. HOW TO STITCH THE RICK-RACK TRIM VIEWS A AND B TO THE APRON 9. On the OUTSIDE, pin center of rick-rack to apron along the hem stitching, having each end extend 5/8” (1.5cm) beyond the side edges. Turn these ends to the WRONG side of apron. Turn under this end again and pin in place, placing the pin on the OUTSIDE. HOW TO MAKE THE BIB FOR VIEWS A, B, C 13. FOR VIEWS B, C- To mark placement for the trim you have purchased, using a ruler and a washable fabric marking pen, pen or chalk, measure 1-5/8” (4cm) from upper edge of bib. 19. RIBBON NECK TIES FOR VIEW B- Cut two pieces of ribbon each 19-1/4” (49cm) for the Child’s size and 23-1/4 (59cm) for the Girl’s size. The remaining ribbon will be used for the waist tie. 20. On OUTSIDE, pin the ribbon ties to upper edge of bib between the small and large dots. Match the cut edges as you pin. Baste across the ends of ties. 10. On the OUTSIDE, stitch along the center of rick-rack, backstitching at ends. 14. FOR VIEW B- On the OUTSIDE, pin center of rick-rack to the bib along the marking. Stitch along the center of the trim. 6. Press up hem allowance on lower edge of apron. Press under 1/4” (6mm) on the raw edge. Pin hem in place. Stitch close to the upper pressed edge. Clip the threads close to the garment fabric. 21. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the bib sections together. Match the cut edges and small and large dots as you pin. Try to keep the neck ties away from the side and lower edges so they will not get caught into the stitching. Stitch, leaving a 3” (7.5cm) opening at the lower edge for turning, as shown. Trim seam and corners. HOW TO STITCH THE LACE TRIM VIEW C OR DAISY TRIM VIEW D TO THE APRON 7. Fold the upper edge of the apron down 1-1/2” (3.8cm) to the WRONG side of the fabric; this forms the actual casing. Press the fold with an iron to hold it in place. Press under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge. Pin in place. Stitch close to the lower pressed edge. Now it’s time to complete making the bib for Views A, B, and C 15. FOR VIEW C- On the OUTSIDE, pin one long edge of lace trim to the bib along the marking. Stitch close to the both long edges of trim. 11. On the OUTSIDE, pin one long edge of lace trim for View C or center of daisy trim for View D to apron along the hem stitching, having each end extend 5/8” (1.5cm) beyond the side edges. Turn these ends to the WRONG side of apron. Turn under this end again and pin in place, placing the pin on the OUTSIDE. 16. NECK TIES FOR VIEWS A, C- Fold the neck tie in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match the cut edges and small and large dots as you pin. Stitch the seam, leaving ends with small and large dots open. Trim seam and corners. 22. Turn the bib RIGHT side out, pushing the corners out with a pin or a point turner, but do it gently. You do not want any holes in the corners. Fold under 5/8” (1.5cm) on the opening edges and press. Slipstitch the turned edges together. VIEW C 8. On the OUTSIDE, top-stitch along the basting. Top-stitch 1/4” (6mm) from the upper edge of apron. 17. Turn the neck tie RIGHT side out and press. LEARN TO SEW TIP- You can use a loop turner to turn the tie RIGHT side out. OR, try using a pencil, placing the eraser side to the seamed end. Push the pencil through the “tube” of the tie, turning the tie RIGHT side out. VIEW D TIPS FOR TOP-STITCHING- Use a slightly longer stitch. Place a piece of white or colored tape on the throat plate 1/4” (6mm) from the needle hole or along the marking on the throat place. Top-stitch, having the edge of the garment along the inner edge of the tape. 12. On the OUTSIDE, stitch close to both long edge of lace trim for View C or stitch along the center of daisy trim for View D, backstitching at ends. VIEW C © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. VIEW D 18. On OUTSIDE, pin the ties to upper edge of bib. Match the cut edges and small and large dots as you pin. Baste across the ends of ties. To slip-stitch, thread the needle and knot one end. Fasten the thread in one fold of the tie. Slip the needle and thread through the fold, and bring it out close to where you inserted the needle. Take another stitch in the opposite fold, slipping the needle and thread through the fold and bring it out close to where you inserted the needle. Keep doing this until the opening is closed, knotting the end. English 2173 4/4 23. Pin the RIGHT side of bib to the INSIDE of apron. Match the large dots and centers front as you place the pins on the OUTSIDE. 31. FOR VIEWS B, E- Trim diagonally across ends of ribbon neck and waist ties. If ribbon waist ties are too long when wearing apron, trim away excess to a desirable length. 27. Turn the waist tie RIGHT side out. Fold under 5/8” (1.5cm) on the opening edges and press. Slipstitch the turned edges together. 6. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the pot holder sections. Match the cut edges and small dots as you pin. Try to keep the free edges of loop out of the way so it will not get caught into the stitching. Stitch, stitching 5/8” (1.5cm) away from the cut edges and leaving an opening between the small dots. This 5/8” (1.5cm) is the seam allowance. Trim seam and corners. 28. WAIST TIES FOR VIEWS B, E- Use ribbon for waist tie. NOW YOU FINISHED YOUR APRON. GO AHEAD AND WEAR IT KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! POT HOLDER F For the pot holder, you can make a fabric loop or a ribbon loop. 24. On the OUTSIDE, stitch bib in place along both casing stitchings, as shown. 29. FOR VIEWS A, B, C- Attach a safety pin to one end of the tie. Slip safety pin and waist tie through one opening in the casing. Work safety pin and tie through the casing and out the remaining opening. Keep the casing ﬂat. Have the waist ties extend evenly beyond the side edges. On the OUTSIDE, stitch close to the side edges of bib between the lower casing stitching and upper edge of casing through all thicknesses. When wearing the apron, pull up the waist ties and fasten into a bow in the back. Even out the fullness within the casing creating soft folds, as shown on the front of the envelope. 7. Turn the pot holder RIGHT side out, pushing the corners out with a pin or a point turner, but do it gently. You do not want any holes in the corners. 1. FOR FABRIC LOOP- Fold the loop in half, lengthwise with WRONG sides together. Press, setting in a crease. 2. Open out the long edges of the loop and turn them to WRONG side so that they meet at the crease. Press. 3. Fold the loop in half lengthwise, bringing pressed edges together. Stitch close to both long edges. 8. Stack the three pieces of heat resistant ﬂeece, having all edges even. Fold all three layers in thirds. Insert the ﬂeece through the opening in the pot holder opening out folds so it is ﬂat and making sure it ﬁts into the corners. Fold under 5/8” (1.5cm) on the opening edges and press. Slip-stitch the turned edges together. To slip-stitch, see Apron step 22. WAIST TIES FOR VIEWS A, B, C, D, E 25. WAIST TIES FOR VIEWS A, C, D- With the RIGHT sides together, pin the ends of waist tie sections, forming one long strip. Match the cut edges as you pin. Stitch the ends. 26. Fold the tie in half, with the RIGHT sides together. Match the cut edges as you pin. Stitch the seam, leaving a 3” (7.5cm) opening for turning. Trim seam and corners. 30. FOR VIEW D, E- Attach a safety pin to one end of the tie. Slip safety pin and waist tie through one opening in the casing. Work safety pin and tie through the casing and out the remaining opening. Have the waist ties extend evenly beyond the side edges. Try on the apron and pull up the waist ties, fastening ties into a bow in the back. Even out the fullness within the casing creating soft folds. Remove the apron. Without disturbing the folds, on the OUTSIDE, place a pin on the casing at each large dot. Stitch above the lower casing stitch, as shown. 4. FOR RIBBON LOOP- Fold ribbon in half, lengthwise having the edges even. Stitch the edges together. Continue making the pot holder 9. Top-stitch the pot holder along the stitching lines in a matching or contrasting thread. 5. Fold loop in half, matching the ends. Pin the loop to the RIGHT side of one pot holder, placing one edge below the large dot. Match the cut edges. Baste across the end of loop. NOW YOU FINISHED YOUR POT HOLDER. IT REALLY IS SIMPLE. TRY MAKING ANOTHER ONE TO MATCH OR USE ANOTHER PRINT OR COLOR. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
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