Mitered Border Receiving Blanket Materials: (42/45” flannel) —1 yd. of front fabric —1 1/4 yd back/border fabric —thread to match back/border fabric To make a larger blanket, use 1 1/2 yd of Minkee (54/60” fabric), and 1 1/4 yd of flannel (42/45” fabric.) And 2 smaller blankets can be made with 7/8 yd Minkee (cut in half), and two 1 1/8 yd pieces of flannel. 4 1. It is very important to wash your flannel and dry it in the dryer before you begin! Flannels really shrink! 2. Square up the back/border fabric first. Refer to the attached page, “How to Square-up Your Fabric.” Accurate cutting will make a big difference, so take the time to do it right, and make it square. 5 3. Square up the front fabric (in the same way you squared up the back/border fabric), cutting it about 10” smaller than the back/border fabric. The smaller you cut it, the wider the border will be, and the smaller your finished blanket will be. 4. Lay out the back/border piece with the right side up. Then center the front piece on top of it with the right side down — right sides should be together, and the raw edges should be together on one side only (see pic.# 4). 6 5. For accuracy, measure the amount of back/border fabric that is sticking out on each side. They should measure the same (see pic. #5). Write down this measurement to use on the opposite side. Pin the front piece 1/4” away from it’s edge on both sides. Pin the rest of this side between the end pins. Repeat for the opposite side, but leave about 8“ open in the middle of one seam, to turn it right side out. 6. Sew the front and back piece together on both pinned sides, beginning and ending 1/4” away from the edge of the front piece. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching (see pic. #6). 7. Lift the blanket up by a corner, then fold the corner into a point, making all 4 raw edges even (see pic. #7). Pin the unsewn edges together where the stitching ends at the point. Repeat for all 4 corners. Then pin between the pins on both long sides, and sew from end pin to end pin. Backstitch at beginning and end, and remember not to stitch past the end pins, into the 1/4” seam allowance. This side is already sewn. 7 8 8. To miter each corner, Pick-up the blanket by one corner, and fold the corner into a point, with raw edges together (like you did before). The flap of extra fabric should fold nicely and come to a point (see pic. 8). 9. Fold the point down onto the folded edge of the flap, so that another fold forms from the corner of the stitching, to the fold in the flap. Remember to fold the fold onto the fold. Mark the fold with a pin (see pic. 9). 10. Open the fold and check your line. It should form a 90° angle from the folded edge, to the pin point at the folded edge, to the point where the stitching ends. You may draw a light line right onto the fabric to help you know where to sew. Sew from the corner where the stitching ends, to the pin at the fold. (see pic. 10). Backstitch at both ends, and do not sew into the 1/4” seam where the stitching ends. folded edge raw edge 9 11. Trim off the extra fabric on each corner, leaving 1/4” seam allowance. Clip off a little extra at the point, so it will form a nice point when turned right-side-out. Miter all 4 corners. Press the mitered seam open (see pic. 11). Press the side seam allowances toward the border. Turn right-side-out and gently form the corners. 90° 12. Lay the blanket out smoothly on a table or the floor. Make sure the seam allowance is toward the border. Pin the layers together all around the border edge (see pic. 12). Pin the raw edges of the opening, so they are smooth with the rest of the border. 13. Top-stitch along the edge of the border, all the way around, sewing the opening closed as you go (see pic. 13). Top-stitching is usually done with a slightly longer stitch, about 1/16” to 1/8” from the edge. stitching ends here 10 12 11 Quilted Sunshine — Put some sunshine in your life! — QuiltedSunshine.com © 2006—2010 Annette Rose [email protected] P.O Box 15, Hyde Park. UT 84318 13 How to Square-up Your Fabric 2. Lay the fabric down onto a cutting mat and smooth it out. Lay a sheet of poster paper on top of the fabric, with the long edge even with the fold of the fabric. Line-up the poster paper so that you mark where to cut the side of the fabric, cutting as little off as possible. fold 3. Mark the top and bottom of the poster with pins. Remove the poster paper. Line-up your ruler with the pins. Remove the pins and cut this side edge off. Repeat for the other side, cutting off as little as possible. Measure from one cut side to the other and write it down. This will be measurement “A.” 4. Open the fabric and fold it the other way, so that the 2 edges that you just cut are together at the top. Lay the fabric down onto the cutting mat and smooth it out. Lay the sheet of poster paper onto the fabric, with the long edge even with the fold of the fabric, and mark the cutting line with pins (as you did before). Cut off as little as possible, but be sure to remove all of the selvedge. 5. Measure from this last cut edge to just before the selvedge on the opposite edge. This will be measurement “B.” Compare the two measurements. If measurement “A” is smaller, leave the fabric folded as it is, and cut the other side of the fabric the size of measurement “A,“ squaring up with the poster paper as your guide. 6. If the second measurement is smaller, cut off the selvedge edge on the left side, measure from side to side, and write this measurement down. This will be measurement “C.” 7. Open the fabric, and fold it the other way, with the 3 cut edges even. Measure from the cut side, and mark it the same width as measurement “C.” Square-up with the poster paper, mark with pins and cut. 8. Re-measure each side and re-trim if needed. The bigger fabric piece should measure at least 3” bigger, but not more than 12” bigger. The idea is to make each piece of fabric square, and as big as possible. Everyone’s measurements will be different, but the average is 9” to 10” difference. pins 1. Hold your fabric with selvedge edges together at the top. Shift the selvedge edges from side to side until the fabric looks straight and has no pulling wrinkles. The side edges may be off by quite a bit, but we want to square-up the fabric with the folded edge, not the side edges.
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