stargaze infant/toddler sleep sack option A option B

infant/toddler sleep sack
option A
option B
Safer than a blanket, a sleep sack keeps little ones warm and cozy
without any worries. A generous side zipper and optional shoulder
closures make it easy to put on. Easy enough for a beginner, you can
quickly sew up a few in different fabrics for cozy naps year round.
stargaze - size chart
sleep sack
chest width
sleep sack
finished length
appx. 3-9 months
34.5 inches
31 inches
appx. 9-18 months
36.5 inches
35 inches
appx. 18-36 months
38.5 inches
40 inches
When selecting a size, remember to consider your baby should have
plenty of room to move their feet - you may want to allow 6” at the bottom.
what you will need
BODY: woven craft-weight cotton or blend (quilting prints, etc.), jersey,
lightweight fleece or flannel.
LINING: flannel, jersey or woven craft-weight cotton
NOTIONS: size small requires a 16” zipper, medium and large require a 22” zipper
(these are common dress zipper lengths).
Option A: 3/4” wide hook and loop tape for shoulder closure - 1.5” total
cut into two pieces 3/4” each
how-to: page 1
your child’s size chart
a - chest
b - waist
c- hip
d- length/height
how-to: page 2
legend of symbols
seam attachment point
join these two numbered pieces
gather/pleat between these two points
ease between these two points
direction for pleat/dart to be pressed
beginning or end of vent/pleat
button or snap
zipper ending
slash/cut here
stitch line
grainline as indicated
for these diagrams
how-to: page 3
fabric right side
lining right side
fabric reverse side
lining reverse side
printing layout
how-to: page 4
45” wide
36” long
cutting & yardage guide
*this guide shows common 45” widths
folded with the selvedge (fabric edge) to the centre.
For directional patterns, be sure to lay
out as shown. See “Getting Started” for more.
Layout applies to lining as well.
45” wide
40” long
45” long
45” wide
how-to: page 5
getting started
1. Begin by printing all the required pattern pieces. They are
designed to fit on standard letter size (8.5” x 11”) paper. Refer to
the 1” scale guide to be sure the size is correctly printed.
2. When all your pieces are printed you can begin to assemble the
pattern – refer to the printing layout for reference if needed.
Arrange the pieces in order, noting the numbers and letters for
matching. Fold or cut precisely along the top and right hand sides;
when ready, begin to tape to the lower left hand sides and work
your way through the pages.
3. Determine the size you will need and cut following the lines as
indicated. You can change a pattern to fit a size as necessary
before you cut. If you need to make a pattern longer, cut along
the indicated lines and spread the pieces apart to the desired
length. If you need to make a pattern shorter, fold along the indicated lines and overlap to the length you need.
4. Using the cutting and yardage guide for reference, lay out your
pattern pieces, noting the grainline and any pieces that may
need to be placed on a fold. Pieces cut on a fold will be mirrored
when open.
5. Pieces cut on a single layer of fabric are cut with the pattern on
the right side of the fabric as shown. Pieces cut from two layers
are cut with the pattern on the wrong side of the fabric. If your
fabric is directional, meaning the print has a top and bottom be
sure your pieces face the same way or you may have an upside
down piece!
6. If you need to cut multiples of a piece you may want to make a
photocopy/additional print and lay everything out at once.
7. When you have laid out your pieces, pin them in place. It’s a
good idea to cut your pieces flat on your working surface – never
pick them up and trim in your hand as they can shift or stretch.
8. Matching points like
can be marked with chalk or
when at the edge of fabric, marked with a small cut no more than
how-to: page 6
how to make it
1. For option A, cut hook and loop tape pieces – for each shoulder
you will need a square piece about 3/4” in size. To prevent the
piece from shifting, you can cut a thin strip of tape (masking tape
works well) and tape the piece down, placing the soft loop tape
on the back lining pieces and scratchy hook tape on the front
outer pieces. When you have sewn one side, carefully remove the
tape and continue sewing – do not sew through the tape as it
may leave glue on your needle. Sew all four pieces in place.
end point
back side
how-to: page 7
2. Pin the two front pieces
together at the centre and sew a
3/4“ seam from the zipper endpoint to the bottom. Baste a
3/4“seam from the endpoint to
the neckline and press the seam
open and flat.
3. Lay on a flat surface, right side
down. Centre your zipper over the
basted area, back side up. For
easiest sewing, baste in place by
hand or machine. Turn over and
topstitch down one side, across,
and up using a zipper foot. You
want to be close to the teeth but
not too close, about 1/4” – 3/8”.
Remove the basting stitches.
4. Pin the two front lining pieces
together at the centre and again, sew
a 3/4” seam from the zipper endpoint to
the bottom. Press open and flat.
5. Pin together the front and back
pieces at the sides and sew a 1/2” side
seam and across the bottom. Repeat
for the lining, but leave open between
the two markings as indicated.
how-to: page 8
You will now be joining the two parts
around the armholes, neck and zipper.
Start by turning the outer portion rightside out and insert into the lining portion,
zipper openings together.
6. Option A: Starting at one side of the
neckline, match up and pin all the way
around the armholes and neck. Sew a
1/2” seam all the way around from
zipper opening to zipper opening, leaving about 1/2” from the zipper edge. To
finish around the zipper, pin or baste the
lining to the outer zipper/seam and sew
a narrow 1/4” seam through all three
layers. Stop 1/2” from the top, pivot the
fabric and join the 1/2” neck/armhole
allowance. Cut small slits all around the
curves of the neckline and armhole so
that the two will lie flat when turned
inside out (do NOT cut too close to the
7. Option B: Pin the neck together and around the zipper, lining up
the two raw edges of fabric. Carefully sew around the neck, pivot
at the zipper and sew the layers together (reduce seam allowance to 1/4” when closing the zipper portion). Clip the neckline
corner as shown. Repeat up the other side and around.
8. Line up the side seam of the lining and outer portion and pin
around the armhole; sew a 1/2“ seam starting about 3” down from
one shoulder and ending about 3 down from the other. Carefully
turn reach through bottom of lining and pull neckline and shoulders right side out.
9. Open the shoulder seams and pin together at the shoulders,
lining up the two neckline seams, with right sides facing each
other; sew across the shoulders to join. Carefully press the seams
open and flat. You will notice there is still an opening along the
join shoulders
this is now closed
this is
still open
how-to: page 9
10. Reach inside, partially turning inside-out and pull shoulders
through from inside; stitch closed remainder of open armhole,
lining up the shoulder seams. Clip small slits all around the curves of
the neckline and armhole so that the two will lie flat when turned
inside out (do NOT cut too close to the seam).
bring open part
sew opening
11. FINISHING BOTH OPTIONS: Carefully turn the whole sleep sack
right side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining. Lay
flat and turn in the 3/4” seam allowance at the bottom – sew a
small stitch as close to the edge as possible by machine or hand
and then push the lining back inside the body of the sleep sack.
open end - turn in here
questions? email us at [email protected]
© 2013 loulou james |creative studio
how-to: page 10