Bernina 830/820 Machine Cover

 Bernina 830/820 Machine Cover
The measurements and original draft of this pattern were provided by Phyllis Moran, who did a wonderful job at getting the fit just right! The embroidery design can be found here:
http://www.bernina.com.au/webautor-data/722/BERNINA-Glitzed-Logo.zip (I resized mine to 9.06 x 5.62).
To create my version of this pattern, you will need 14 Jelly Roll strips, or 14 2-1/2 inch strips, WOF (width of fabric). 12
of the strips will make the front and back panels, with the two remaining strips to be used as the horizontal divider
near the bottom of the cover.
You will also need 2 pieces of fusible fleece cut to 25 inches by 16 inches, and one piece cut to 12 inches by 52 inches. Fusible fleece works so much better than cotton batting for this type of project. Fusing the fabric to the fleece
gives wonderful stability, the fleece has a bit more body than batting, and when you see how beautifully your decorative stitches sew out on it, you’ll be a convert! I use fusible fleece for all my home décor and craft projects.
2 packages of Wright’s Bias Tape Maxi Piping and 1 package of Wright’s Bias Tape Extra Wide Double Fold are also
used in this project, unless you prefer to make your own.
If you prefer to make your cover with a solid piece of fabric instead of Jelly Roll strips, then simply skip the parts that
don’t apply, and cut to Phyllis’ original dimensions, or use my modified gusset measurements.
Begin by sewing the strips together, alternating your sewing direction so that the strips don’t begin to curve. They will
lay straighter by sewing each seam line in the opposite direction.
Next, trim off the uneven selvage edges from both ends.
Cut a 3-1/2 inch strip off of EACH end (you’ll need to match these back up later) and set aside. The strips will match
better if you attach them back to the end you cut them off of.
Sew one of the remaining two strips to each end of your main body piece, press towards the body, and trim off the ends.
Like so:
Your main body piece (front and back panel) should now look like this:
Re-attach the 3-1/2 inch strips you previously cut off and set aside to each end, making sure that the fabrics match!
Press the seam towards the 3-1/2 inch bottom piece you added.
I suggest pinning at every seam to make sure your 3-1/2 strip section seams match your main body panel seams.
Press your seams to the 3-1/2 strip.
Measure 16 inches up on each end of the main body panel, from the 3-1/2 strip piece you just sewed back on, and cut
across the panel to remove the sections from each end. You’ll have a center section of your pieced strips leftover to do
whatever with, we no longer need this piece.
The main body panel has now become the front and back sections, as pictured below.
Grab the two 25 inch by 16 inch pieces of fusible fleece, and fuse both the front and back sections to each.
Yippy! The front and back sections are now ready to be embellished! You will trim them to 24 inches by 14-1/2 inches
after you embellish the pieces.
I’m very fond of stitch #766, and that is the stitch I have chosen to stitch out along my strip seams. It will look best if you
begin each row of stitching starting at the horizontal divider strip, and sew out to the ends. Since I can’t stitch off the
edge of the fabric here, I bring my bobbin thread to the surface, and take several tiny stitches with straight stitch number
1, stitch length reduce to 0.40, before switching over to my decorative stitch.
End in the same manner. I switched over to foot #20D, default presser foot pressure and default tension settings, bobbin
threaded for embroidery. Isacord embroidery thread was used for the decorative stitching for both the upper and bobbin
threads.
Make sure you have a fresh needle in, your stitches will look prettier! I am using a Schmetz 90/14 Embroidery needle. If
you choose to do this step, sew SLOWLY, and put your machine down into your cabinet so your sewing surface is flush.
Otherwise it’s very easy to mess up the decorative stitching from the drag of the piece going over the slide on table.
Turn on some music, grab a cup a coffee, some chocolate, and get into Zen mode!
For my front, I chose to do every other strip, beginning with the red one on the left, above and below the horizontal
cream strip.
I’ve chosen to use the free Bernina logo design what was posted to…
I re-sized it in the Bernina DPV6 software with the handles, so that the width measured 9.04 inches. That makes it the perfect
size for the text to display beautifully in the center of my horizontal strip of fabric, which I marked the center line with a Clover air
erasable marker.
Next I hooped heavyweight tear-away stabilizer, and marked the centers of it with my hoop template. I used the Jumbo hoop for
this, although the mega hoop is plenty big enough.
Spray your stabilizer with 505 adhesive spray, and line up your machine front piece on top of the stabilizer in the hoop. Load the
embroidery motif into the machine, and use the 830’s amazing tools to make sure your motif is perfectly centered. I start with the
center icon, then position the two ends my moving my needle position to the center ends, and adjusting my fabric as needed. I
centered my motif over the fourth jelly roll strip from the right side of the front panel. I used a Schmetz 70/11 embroidery needle,
and Isacord thread for both the upper and bobbin threads.
And finally, I sewed on a few buttons, using the wonderful #18 button sew on foot (this foot still fascinates me!), matching Isacord
thread for upper and bobbin threads. I used a bit of water soluble glue to hold the buttons in place while I sewed them on.
One side finished! This front piece is ready to trim and square up. My back is exactly the same, except you need to remember
that your embroidery motif and buttons will be on the left side instead of the right, so that your fabric stripes and embellishments
match when the cover is assembled.
Like so:
To square up the pieces, I lined up off of the horizontal strip of fabric, as indicated by the pink arrow. (Sorry about the light reflection). I centered the rulers across the length, and trimmed off the short ends.
Next, line the 3 inch marking of your ruler along the bottom seam of the horizontal fabric strip, and trim of the excess, leaving
exactly 3 inches.
Measure up 14-1/2 inches from the bottom edge, and trim off the excess.
Round off the two top corners of both pieces.
Like so:
You’ll need two packages of piping and one of binding if you choose to purchase it pre-made, as I did.
The #12 piping foot is the perfect size for the Wright’s pre-made piping. Sew your piping around both the front and back panel
piece.
Your panels should now be looking pretty good!
Along with this tutorial, I am including a .pdf file of Phyllis Moran’s original pattern dimensions, that I redrew in Corel Draw from
her sketch. You can make the gusset piece in 2 parts as she did, with a more tailored fit, or you can be lazy and do it like I did,
which is the next step. If you’re going to use a soft batting, I’d highly recommend the tailored 2 piece method, it will look much
nicer. With the stiff fleece though, the cover has enough body to more or less support itself, and the boxier approach is simpler.
Cut your gusset fabric and fusible fleece 12 inches by 52 inches, fuse and quilt or embellish as desired. I quilted a meandering
open feather on mine, and fused it after, because I quilted it on my longarm. If you’re going to quilt it (totally optional with fusible
fleece) on your sewing machine, I suggest fusing first.
Trim the completed gusset to 10 inches by 50 inches.
Pin the gusset to either front or back panel, and sew. I used roughly a 3/8 inch seam allowance… the width of the piping flange.
I switched to the #12C foot this time, as it’s a bit wider to accommodate the extra bulk added around the piping with the fusible
fleece, but the #4 zipper foot would work just fine too.
One of the reasons I love the piping feet is the etched line over on the right. With it, I can line it up to my previous stitched line,
sew directly on it, and my piping will be perfect!
Add the second panel, and when it’s all sewn together, if you have a bit of overhang, simply spread the cover open, and use your
rotary cutter to cut it even with the front and back.
Cover assembled, piping and quilting of gusset.
Almost done! To apply the binding, clip off at an angle each side on one end, as shown:
Fold the end in about an inch or so, and press. When you begin sewing, leave a tail of an inch or two, and simply tuck the end
into the folded end.
I used the #10D foot to sew the binding on, one of the BEST feet ever! Needle click 3 places to the right.
Yippy, all done! I hope you enjoyed the tutorial!
Visit me online at http://www.createdbycj.com <-- 9 inches -->
Front (Needle end)
s -->
<--14-1/2 inche
<-- 7 inches -->
<-- 7 inches -->
Needle End
<-- 14-1/2 inches -->
Top
Side Panel
Motor side panel. Horizontal cross-lines indicates
beginning of top panel.
Vertical line designates center of panel. 18 inches from
bottom (10 inch wide section, motor end) to 2nd
Horizontal cross-line.
Length of entire piece is 37-1/2 inches.
Motor End - Round lower right corner -->
Back
<-- 18 inches -->
<-- 10 inches -->
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