Created by Elaine Baker
March, 2011
Use washable yarns for all doll clothes. I have used furry yarns with scattered sequins on some of these
outfits and they wash very well. Just take an article of clothing in your hands and hold under the kitchen
faucet. If really soiled, use a dollop of dish washing liquid. Squish a few times, then rinse under the faucet
until all soap bubbles are gone. Lay on a flat surface on top of a hand towel to dry. Will look as good as
When sewing seams for these doll clothes reinforce “stress” areas, i.e. sleeve seams, pants legs, back
seam to neckline, hat seam, boot seams, etc. with extra KNOTS spaced up the back, sleeves, pants legs,
etc. Make these clothes as childproof as possible. They will be TUGGED on and off by little fingers who are
too stubborn to go to mommy for assistance.“I want to do it myself!”
ALWAYS dress the doll feet-first. Watch the doll’s fingers - they will catch on sleeves and snag the yarn be careful!
ALWAYS include a pair of matching panties for all dresses and skirts. Little girls become upset if their doll
buddy doesn’t have a pair of panties to wear with a specific outfit.
When finished playing with a specific outfit, instruct the child to store all accessories: hat, purse, boots,
shrug, slippers, etc. under the skirt of a dress or down the front of the neckline if a one-piece jumpsuit or
shirt with attached panties. In this way, small items will not get lost and cause tears when a special pair of
slippers or a hat cannot be found.
I have found that a large 6-gallon popcorn can is perfect for storing knit doll clothes. The doll will even fit
inside when moving to a different location! Use a plastic kitchen trash bag to line the can, then stack the
outfits inside. It’s surprising how many outfits will fit inside a popcorn can. Moths cannot get inside and
eat holes in the doll clothes!
Optional: You can knit a corner-to-corner small doll blanket and a small matching pillow to provide a cozy
nap time area for the doll.
Materials needed:
Size 6 US straight or circular needles for most outfits
Size 8 or 10 straight or circular needles for full skirts (depending on what you have on hand)
A minimum of four (4) markers: rubber, plastic or metal rings. Or use a plastic drinking straw, cut into tiny
circles. Keep lots of markers handy - they tend to get lost.
A Size D crochet hook for weaving in the ends of a finished garment, and for making a simple chain for a
purse handle, or a simple flower on a hat or purse, or a simple chained ruffle around the edge of a skirt,
sleeves or hat.
Plastic or metal darning needle to sew seams
Optional: a separate small satchel or clear plastic make-up tote to keep all your tiny pieces of equipment
needed to make doll clothes, plus a few balls of yarn to have handy if you get a creative idea while riding in
the car, relaxing after lunch at work, or waiting for a bus.
With #6 needles, cast on 68 stitches with baby sports weight yarn. Can also use fingering yarn or fine baby
yarn. This is softer when completed.
Knit 6 rows in garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row: Knit 12, BIND OFF 12 stitches (knit 2, slip left needle under first of the two stitches and draw it
over the second knit stitch - one stitch decreased. Knit 1 and draw the second stitch on the right needle
over that knit stitch, another stitch decreased - continue until you have decreased 12 stitches. Knit 20
stitches, BIND OFF next 12 stitches, knit 12 stitches.
Next Row: (This is tricky, but doable!) Knit 12 stitches, TURN ENTIRE PIECE OF KNITTING AROUND SO
STITCHES. 52 stitches now on needle.
Knit 1 row.
Note: You bound off 12 stitches to make the strap of the dress on both sides.
You cast on 4 stitches for the underarm of these straps.
Pull the yarn tightly when knitting the bound off and cast on stitches for the next few rows, especially the
stitches next to the sides and body of the garment. You don’t want to leave unsightly holes at the
underarm areas!
Knit 1 row, purl 1 row for 10 rows. You are now at the waistline.
For slightly full skirt, knit 1, knit and increase in next stitch (knit in front and back of the same stitch - one
stitch increased), knit 1, knit and increase across row. (78 stitches on needle).
For nice full skirt, knit and increase in every stitch across row. (104 stitches on needle).
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 20 rows. On right side, bind off in knit.
Sew seam up the back. (No other seams to sew !)
Optional: Work in knit 1 row, purl 1 row for 14 rows, then garter stitch for the next 6 rows. Bind off in
knit. Sew seam.
Option #2:
Row 1:Knit 1, slip 1 (slip stitch off left hand needle to right needle as if to purl), Knit 1, slip 1
across row. Row 2: Purl
Row 1: Knit 2, slip 1 across row. Row 2: Purl.
This makes a very pretty pattern on full skirts or dresses.
Color Options:
Get creative and knit 6 rows in main Color A (red), knit 4 rows in Color B (white), and knit 6 rows in Color C
(blue). To add another color - at the beginning of the row, drop the red, hold a strand of white at the back
of the garment and knit across the rows for 4 rows. At the end of 4 rows (on right side), drop the white
and hold a strand of blue in the back of the garment and knit across for 6 rows. You will have a few more
strands to weave into the finished garment, from all the colors used - but that’s easy to do. Bind off on
right side in knit.
Note: Do not try to pick up the red strand and begin to knit another 6 rows after you have completed the
blue rows. There are too many rows between the end of the last red row and the beginning of the
new red rows. (4 rows of white, plus 6 rows of blue = 10 rows). It is easier to cut the colored
strands when you have completed the required rows. Leave a 4-6 inch strand to KNOT and weave
in ends when finishing the garment. Start a new strand of yarn to knit the next red, white and blue
The red/white/blue patriotic dress will be cute to wear on the 4th of July, Memorial Day and
Labor Day.
For Valentine’s Day, try using 4 rows red, 4 rows white, ending with 4 red rows.
Easter: Use pastel colors: Pastel top down to waist, full skirt:4 rows yellow, 4 rows pink, 4 rows
lavender, 4 rows mint green, finish with 4 rows powder blue.
Cinco de Mayo: Use bright colors: neon lime green, hot pink, bright orange, and bright yellow.
Thanksgiving: Use autumn colors: sage green, brick red/brown, deep gold.
Holidays: There is a terrific yarn called “Garland” that is fuzzy, metallic and sparkles. Comes in
bright red, white, and variegated red and white. Looks terrific as a holiday dress, hat and purse.
For holiday colors use red, white and some green - make it sparkle!
Using same yarn as for dress, with #6 US needles, cast on 54 stitches (the circumference for the doll’s head
is the same as her waist). Knit 8 rows. Bind off in knit. Sew ends together to form a circle (donut shape).
Pull doll’s hair through center of circle and slide up headband to fit around her head and down over her
Same yarn used for dress and headband, with #6 US needles, cast on 30 stitches. Knit 12 rows. Bind off
in knit and cut a long strand, about 24 inches long to sew the seam and make the purse strap.
Fold the purse in half, from side-to-side. With a darning needle, sew the side and bottom seams, making
sure you finish with your sewing strand back at the open top of the purse. You will have to lightly sew
through some knit loops on the back side to get to the top.
With a #D crochet hook (or any size you have handy), using the long strand of yarn left over from sewing
the seams, work a simple crochet chain stitch for about 40-45 stitches. Knot this chain and bring it across
the top to the other side of the purse. Pull remaining thread from purse strap to reverse side of purse and
knot securely - remember, make it childproof! Turn right side out and use as a shoulder strap over doll’s
head and hanging at her side. OR…wrap strap around doll’s wrist twice - this will keep it from falling off
and getting lost.
Handout #2
By Elaine Baker - “Ladyfingers”
[email protected]
May, 2011
A trick I have learned: After casting on to get started, ALWAYS knit back across the row IN THE BACK
LOOP OF EACH STITCH. For some reason this always makes a nice line of consistently even stitches without all those sloppy loops I used to get when knitting the first row after casting on. Then plan how the
neckline will look: ribbed for a sweater, a nice garter stitch border, or a seed stitch border for the neck,
Hint: There is always a strand of yarn dangling at the start of your cast on row. When working across in
the back loops (to finish the cast on neatly) you will end up on the wrong side (where you decide what to
do with the neckline). Purl or knit back to the first cast on stitch (with the dangling yarn). This dangling
thread will be the RIGHT SIDE of your work. Then, if you put it down to answer the phone, the door, or to
switch channels - you will always know if you are on the wrong or right side of your knitting when you pick
it up again.
Reminder: Always leave an 8-12 inch strand of yarn whenever you cut the yarn to bind off, when you finish
a sleeve, shorts or pant leg. Attach yarn where indicated in pattern and continue to complete the second
sleeve, etc. Bind off and cut another long strand. You will need these long strands of yarn to sew the
seams: up the back, from panties to neck, sleeve seams, pant legs, and from the dress hemline up to the
neck. If you are sewing the seam for a long gown, such as a bathrobe, party dress, or jumpsuit remember
to cut about 14-18 inches to sew the seam.
When making a purse, after binding off, always leave a much longer strand - at least 24 inches - to sew the
seams and to crochet a single chain of at least 50-55 sts for the shoulder strap. This strap can be wound
around the doll’s wrist and it will stay on without getting lost.
HINT: Purchase a knitting book filled with hundreds of stitches or a book of patterns for dishcloths/pot
holders: ribbing, feather and fan, Trinity, mock cable, open lacey patterns, popcorn, etc. You can adapt
some of these fancy stitches for skirts or pant legs.
Using #6 US needles and whatever yarn you used for the dress or skirt, cast on 26 stitches. Rib in K1, P1
for 4 rows. Work in stock. stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for 12 rows.
DECREASE: Row 1: Knit 2 stitches together on first and last stitches.
Row 2: Purl 2 stitches together on first and last stitches.
Continue to decrease on EACH ROW until you have 10 stitches on needle.
Work in stock. stitch for 10 rows.
INCREASE: Row 1: Knit in front and back of first and last stitch - 2 stitches increased.
Row 2: Increase in first st, purl to last stitch, increase on last st.
Continue to increase on EVERY ROW until you have 26 stitches on the needle.
Work in stock. stitch for 12 rows.
Rib in K1, P1 for 4 rows.
Bind off in ribbing.
Sew side seams. Weave in ends. Turn right side out.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The basic top ALWAYS starts with “Cast on 46 stitches” - for dresses, sweaters, and
one-piece jumpsuits. I have found this is the best number of stitches for dressing the doll - ALWAYS
FEET FIRST. She will fit very nicely into this neckline for dresses, ribbed sweaters, jumpsuits, etc.
It might require some tugging to get over her padded little “bottom”, and some slight pulling and/or
tugging to get her arms into the sleeves, but the garment WILL stretch to fit the doll. That is why I
always emphasize to make outfits as child-proof as possible, with lots of KNOTS at the stress points
when sewing the seams. I believe a little bit of tugging works better than sewing on snaps, buttons,
zippers, making buttonholes, or knitting extra rows so you can turn up a hem. Advanced knitters
enjoy doing all of the extra things without even thinking about it, but beginners want to finish
quickly so they can admire their creation and get busy completing the outfit with a cute shrug, hat,
purse and/or boots.
Using #6 US needles and sport yarn or fingering yarn, cast on 46 stitches.
Knit across row in the back loops of each stitch.
Neckline: Knit 6 rows - this will give you 3 garter stitch ridges for the neckline.
Purl across row, placing markers as follows:
Purl 7, Place Marker (PM) - P10 - PM - P12 - PM - P10 - PM - P7 = 46 sts.
Row 1: Knit across increasing BEFORE and AFTER each marker (knit in front and back of st) - 8 sts incr.
Row 2: Purl, slipping markers from left needle to the right needle.
Continue to work Rows 1 and 2 until you have 110 sts on needle, divided as follows:
15 (right back), Marker, 26 (sleeve), M, 28 (front), M, (26 sleeve), M, and 15 (left back). End with
purl row.
Options for Neckline: (Always cast on 46 stitches)
Work in seed stitch for 3 rows: K1, P1 across row, ending with K1.
Next row and all rows: Knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts. This will make a lovely “bumpy”
pattern that is very pretty.
Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rows - this is for sweaters and some dresses.
Make an open, lacy look: Knit 1 row.
On wrong side: K1, *Yarn Over, K2tog - continue across row from * to end, K1.
Knit 3 rows. Then purl across, placing markers to increase for raglan sleeves.
NOTE: “Yarn Over” means (while knitting) bring strand of yarn to the front, then knit the next 2 stitches
together. This will keep the stitch count even at 26 stitches, even though you knit 2 sts together - the YO
will form the missing stitch.
Cap Sleeves:
Row 1: Knit 15, remove marker, BIND OFF next 26 sleeve sts, remove marker, knit 28, remove marker,
BIND OFF 26 sleeve sts, remove marker, knit 15.
Row 2: Purl across row, PURL 2 STITCHES TOGETHER AT UNDERARM, connecting the back with the front
pieces. Approx. 54 sts on needle.
NOTE: (Ignore the first 15 sts on the needle - will be worked later). To “bind off” while knitting: knit 2
sts, then pull the first stitch over and off the second st on the needle. You now have one stitch on
the right needle. Knit 1 and pull the first st over and off the stitch just knitted. Keep binding off
the required number of stitches, remove the marker and bind off the 26th stitch. Then knit across
the body of the garment to the next sleeve strap. Remove marker, do this “bind off” technique
once again, remove the marker, bind off the 26th stitch. Then continue to knit across the
remaining 15 stitches of the body to the end of the row.
Mid to Long Sleeves:
Knit 15, remove marker, now work ONLY ON THE 26 sleeve sts, knit 26, remove marker, TURN and purl
back on only the 26 sleeve sts (remember to carefully count these stitches for the first few rows).
Work back and forth on only these 26 sts for 12-15 rows for mid length sleeve, or 16-18 rows for long
sleeves. Then on either mid or long sleeves, work 6 rows in garter stitch (knit every row) to match the
neckline. Bind off in knit.
For sweaters with ribbing at neckline: finish sleeves with 4 rows of ribbing to match neckline.
Attach yarn at underarm and work across 28 sts of the body, remove marker, work only on the next 26
sleeve sts, remove marker, TURN and purl back on the 26 sleeve sts - knitting and purling the same as the
first sleeve. Bind off in knit.
Attach yarn at underarm and work across the remaining 15 stitches.
Next Row: On wrong side, purl across row, PURL 2 STITCHES TOGETHER AT EACH UNDERARM,
connecting the back with the front pieces. Approx. 52-54 stitches on needle.
IMPORTANT: This 18” doll has hands and fingers wider than her actual arm measurement. Be sure you
have at least 22 stitches on the sleeves when binding off, in order to get it on over her hands. This note is
made in case you plan to widen the sleeves for a “full sleeve blouse” effect - then decrease to a tighter cuff
before binding off.
Options for Sleeves:
Long sweater sleeves: On 26 sleeve sts work in stock. st (with or without a fancy stitch pattern)
for 18 rows.
Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rows - to match ribbing at neckline.
Open lacy sleeves: Row 1: On 26 sleeve sts: knit 3 rows.
Next Row: On wrong side - K1, *yarn over, K2 tog, continue from * across row, ending K1.
Repeat these four rows four times. End with Row 1. Bind off in knit.
Wide open sleeve: When starting to work the 26 sleeve stitches, INCREASE in first and last stitch
ON KNIT SIDE ONLY. Purl back across the row.
Work in stockinet stitch (increasing on knit side only) for 12-15 rows.
Knit 2 rows. Bind off.
Full, puffy sleeves: This is for more advanced knitters. After you have placed the markers, when
you work the first increase for the sleeves - INCREASE in every stitch across the row (10 sts to
begin - end with 20). Continue across the row, increasing between markers for second sleeve.
Purl back across entire row for raglan shaping.
Next Row: Increase in every other sleeve stitch across the row. (20 = 30 sts). Work across
entire row, increasing at second sleeve. Purl back.
Increase in every other stitch across the next row. (30 = 45 sts). Purl back across entire row.
When you have finished the raglan shaping for the entire garment, you will have 45 sleeve
stitches between markers for each sleeve. Work across the first 15 sts, remove marker, work on
Work 6 rows in stockinet stitch.
Next Row: K2 together across row = 23 sts.
Knit 1 row. Bind off in knit.
Attach yarn at underarm, knit across front, remove marker, work on ONLY THE 45 SLEEVE STS,
same as the first sleeve.
Attach yarn at underarm and work across the final 15 sts on the needle. Purl back, PURL 2 STS
TOGETHER AT UNDERARMS. 52 sts on needle.
You will be working on BOTH sleeves as you do the raglan shaping - this will put a lot of stitches
on the needle. Try to use a circular needle for making these full, puffy sleeves.
Body: (Should have 52-54 stitches on needle after completing sleeves)
Work in stockinet stitch until body of garment is at doll’s waistline. (Hold up to doll to measure - or knit for
3-4 inches to get to waist).
Work 6 rows in garter stitch to finish top to match sleeves and neckline. Bind off in knit.
Sew sleeve seams and back seam. Weave in ends.
For long-sleeved sweater with ribbing at neck and sleeves, after working in stock. st. for 3-4 inches, work 8
rows in ribbing. Bind off in ribbing. Sew back and sleeve seams. Weave in ends.
Attach Panties to Top:
At the waistline of top piece - on the WRONG SIDE - use a larger needle and KNIT across row. This will put
the 52 purl nubs on the right side of the garment in order to attach the skirt later
Go back to the regular #6 needle and continue in Stock.St. for 8 rows.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch, knit 26 sts, place marker, knit 26 sts and increase in last st.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch, INCREASE BEFORE and AFTER marker, knit and increase in last stitch.
Continue until there are 68 sts on needle.
Next Row: Knit across 34 sts, remove marker, TURN and work back on the 34 sts of one leg of panties.
Work 6 rows. Bind off in knit.
Attach yarn and work across remaining 34 sts for second leg. Work 6 rows.
Bind off in knit. Sew seams for legs and up the back. Do not sew back seam if adding a skirt!
Attaching Skirt to Panties:
If you plan to attach a skirt, with the panties attached, work the following:
When bind off is complete for top and panties, hold it up with the panties at the top and the bodice at
the bottom - right side toward you. Fold down the panties toward the back at the waistline. You will
now be able to see the little purl nubs.
Use a smaller knitting needle that will slip easily through the nubs. Thread this needle into the first
nub, then the second, third, fourth, etc. until you have all the nubs on the needle - no knitting, just
use the bare needle to do this - you just want to get all those little nubs onto a needle. (A doublepointed needle works great!)
Now, whichever is easier for you, with a strand of yarn to be used for the skirt, either knit or purl
across the row, working the nubs off the smaller needle and onto your regular needle. If you didn’t
pick up all 52 nubs while knitting or purling across this row, pick them up on the next row, or just add
stitches by increasing in a few stitches - no problem - the object is to get 54 stitches on the needle at
the waistline so you can work the skirt, either a nicely full dress skirt or a really FULL ballerina or
skating skirt.
For a dress skirt: Knit and increase in every other stitch across the row. For a fuller skirt, knit and increase
in every stitch across the row. Work 28-30 rows. Knit 2 rows. Bind off in knit.
For a ballerina or skating skirt: Knit in front, back and front of each stitch, two sts increased in each st.
Some knitters prefer to knit, purl, and knit in each stitch - your choice. Switch to #8 or #10 needles
(optional) and work in garter stitch until you reach the bottom of the panties. Bind off in knit. (It’s cute to
see a little bit of the panties showing in this costume!)
Options for Dress Pattern Designs:
The easiest - for beginners - work entire dress in garter stitch (knit every row). The cap sleeve
works best for beginners. Work bodice 3-4 inches to reach almost to waistline.
Use a contrasting color for a “belt” - drop the yarn used for the bodice, pick up a contrasting
color - just hold the strand of yarn behind the beginning of the row and knit across. Be sure you
KNOT the two yarn strands together when dress is finished - make it child-proof! Knit the
contrasting color for 6 rows.
Drop CC and pick up the main color (MC) and knit 2 rows. Increase in every stitch - or increase
in every other stitch - depending on how full you want the skirt to be.
Knit every row for the next 25-30 rows, depending on how long you want the dress to be. Bind
Slip Stitch skirt: Work in dress pattern of your choice (neckline, sleeves and bodice to waistline).
Increase in every other stitch for nice full skirt.
Row 1: K1, slip 1 as if to purl across row, ending with K1.
Row 2: Purl.
Work this pattern for 20 rows.
Knit 6 rows for hemline. Bind off in knit.
Basket weave skirt: Work dress to waistline. Increase in every other stitch for full skirt.
Rows 1,2,3,and 4: Knit 4, Purl 4 across rows, ending Purl 4.
Rows 5,6,7, and 8: Purl 4, Knit 4 across rows, ending Knit 4
Repeat Rows 1-4 and Rows 5-8 two more times - approx. 24 rows.
Knit 6 rows. Bind off in knit.
Suggest: This pattern works best with light colors, so you can see the pattern better.
Checkered skirt: Select two colors for this dress, the main color (MC) for the bodice and skirt and
the contrasting color (CC ). Suggest: Dark rose with light pink, beige with chocolate brown,
lavender with dark purple, yellow with bright orange, mint green with deep red.
Work the neckline in CC, trim the last 2 rows of the sleeves with CC. Work the bodice in MC
down to waistline. Pick up CC and work 6 rows garter stitch at waistline for “belt”. Pick up MC.
Increase 8 stitches evenly spaced across the row = 60- 62 sts. Purl back.
Row 1: Drop MC, pick up CC: Knit 2 CC, slip 2 stitches as if to purl in MC (already on the
needle), knit 2 CC, slip 2 sts in MC - across the row.
Row 2: Purl back all stitches with CC.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Row 3: Drop CC, pick up MC: Knit 2 MC, slip 2 sts in CC, K2 MC, slip 2 CC across the row.
Row 4: Purl back all stitches with MC.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until you get to the desired length: mini (above the knees), at the knees, or
down to the floor. (It’s fun to make a very short mini skirt, then add boots in MC to complete the
Striped skirt: Select two, three or four colors. Suggest: gold, sage green, bright orange and
chocolate brown. Pale blue, dark blue, pink and white. Beige, brick (red/brown), bright gold and
neon green. This is also very effective if one of your colors is angora ,furry or sparkly yarn.
Work this skirt in stock. stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row), except for the angora, furry or sparkly
yarn - work this in rows of garter stitch (knit every row).
Work at least 6 rows in one color, change to another color and work 4 or 6 rows, then work 2
rows of furry yarn.
Work until you reach the desired length, 20-24 rows. Work 6 rows in garter stitch. Bind off in
Seed Stitch skirt (and sleeves): Work the neckline in 6 rows of seed stitch (k1,p1 across row when working the next row, knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts). This can be time consuming
for a beginning knitter, but it is really lovely when completed. Nice little bumps all over the
sleeves and skirt - really cute! This is also a good way for beginners to recognize what the
stitches look like on the needles: if there is a little bumpy stitch facing you, it means you purled
that stitch on the other side. If the stitch is flat and has a tiny “v” shape, you knit that stitch.
This seed stitch can be done to finish both sleeves (after the raglan shaping, when you are
working on only the 26 sleeve sts).
When you knit the stockinet stitch bodice down to the regular waistline, work across the 52-54
stitches and increase in every other - or every stitch for the skirt. At this time you have the
option of switching to a larger needle: #8 or #10 to work the skirt.
Suggest: Use one color for the dress using the seed stitch - a lighter color will be more effective.
Try pale pink, baby blue, pale yellow, cream or even white for a First Communion Gown or a long
Bridesmaid/Flower Girl dress.
Open Lacy Skirt: This is a very open pattern and looks terrific on bathrobes with matching open
sleeves. If you use it for a full skirted dress (maybe with plain cap sleeves), you must be sure to
work the skirt in a solid knit (either stock. st. or garter st) below her panty line - this is too open
for the entire skirt on a little girl’s dress!
This pattern works with body in both stock. st. and garter st. However, the skirt stitches
pattern is all knitting:
Rows 1-2-and 3: Knit
Row 4: Wrong Side (WS) - K1 -*yarn over (YO), K2 tog, continue from * across row, end K1.
Repeat these 4 rows until desired length of skirt - either regular dress or long gown.
Patterned Straight Skirt: This pattern works very well with a high empire waistline, just after the
sleeves are completed and the body stitches are all together on one needle. 52-54 sts.
Suggest: This dress looks good in a solid light to mid color - no dark colors. However, if you
want to be creative, you can select two colors, one color for the top and sleeves (a dark color like
Navy Blue, Chocolate Brown, Emerald Green, Deep Red, etc., and use a lighter color for the
patterned skirt - baby blue, light gold, white or very light green, pink, etc.)
After completing sleeves, at empire waist, increase 8 sts evenly across row. 60-62 sts. Purl back.
You have the option of using a larger needle, #8 instead of the usual #6.
Row 1: Right Side - K1-*P1 -KEEP YARN TO FRONT - slip 1 as if to purl, repeat from * to last
two sts, P1 -K1
Row 2: Wrong Side - K1 *P1, K1, repeat from * across row.
Row 3: (RS) - Knit
Row 4: (WS) - K1 - Purl to last stitch - K1.
Repeat these four rows for 5-6 inches - this should be a short tight mini-skirt. End with Knit 2
rows. Bind off in knit. Sew back seam.
This dress will go nicely with a pair of long boots in the dark color used for the top. A hat and
purse in both colors would look cute, too.
Alternate Rib Pattern: This pattern looks good on a bodice or pant legs. Don’t try it on sleeves
or tiny garments, such as purses or hats. Suggest a light color in order to see the pattern
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K4, P4
Row 4: P4, K4 - repeat these four rows for the pattern to waist.
Use cap sleeves. Do the regular raglan increases and don’t worry if you get “off” from the K4, P4
- it will work out in the end. Easier to do this pattern on straight pant legs.
Make 2: Using #6 US needles and yarn to match the outfit you are working on, cast on 18 stitches.
Knit 8 rows in garter stitch for top of boot.
Stock. St. (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for 10 rows.
Turn Heel: Knit 2 tog on first and last two stitches. Purl 2 tog on first and last two stitches. 14 sts.
Knit 8 rows in stock st.
Knit 2 sts tog on first and last two sts. 12 sts.
Purl 1 row.
Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch strand. Thread this strand onto a darning needle and thread the needle through
the remaining 12 sts. Pull up tightly, KNOT securely 2-3 times. Sew seam to top of boot. Weave in ends.
Turn right side out.
Using #6 needles and sport weight yarn or fingering yarn, cast on 54 stitches.
Rib in K1, P1 for 12 rows.
Change to stock.stitch (K1 row, P1 row) for 12 rows.
Knit 5, *K2 tog, k5, continue from * across row to end.
Purl 4, *P2 tog, P4 across row.
K3, *K2 tog across row.
P2, *P2 tog across row.
K1, *K2 tog across row.
DO NOT BIND OFF. Cut 12-inch strand. Thread this strand onto darning needle and pull darning needle
through stitches on knitting needle. Pull up stitches - TIGHTLY - KNOT SECURELY. Weave in ends. Sew
back seam.
Variations for Basic Hat:
Hat with Narrow Brim: Cast on 108 sts for brim.
Knit 10 rows.
Next Row: Knit 2 together across row. 54 sts
Purl 1 row.
Work in for 18 rows
Decrease and finish same as Basic Hat above. Turn up brim on the sides - mold with your hands
until it turns up nicely, with part of the brim dipping down in the front.
Hat with Wide Brim: Cast on 108 sts.
Knit 20 rows. Knit 2 tog across row. 54 sts.
Purl 1 row.
Work in for 18 rows
Decrease and finish same as Basic Hat.
Turn up brim on the sides - mold with hands to make it look like a cowboy hat.
Sunbonnet: Work Basic Hat pattern.
When hat is complete, make crochet chain stitches, as follows:
Attach to hat, chain 4, single crochet into hat leaving a tiny loop, chain 4, single crochet into hat.
Continue completely around the hat. Then work the chain 4 into each loop, making at least 6 to
8 rows of chain crochet loops around the hat - giving it an open lacy look.
(I don’t know how to crochet, so I’m sure all you knitters who also know how to crochet will be
able to make a spectacular sunbonnet!
Bonnet with Full, Wide Brim: Cast on 162 stitches.
Knit 2 rows.
Work in for 20 rows.
Knit 3 together across row = 54 sts.
Knit 1 row - TIGHTLY to keep all the hat brim stitches together and not spread out across the
needle. This will give you a big “ruffle” effect for the hat brim.
Purl 1 row - Tightly. Work the Basic Hat instructions.
Note: For these wide brimmed hats, I have found it is almost necessary to make a chain stitch on each
side of the hat (as it fits on the head) -- about 50-60 chains, in order to tie the two strands under her chin.
The hat won’t fall off and get lost while the little girl plays with her doll.
Use #6 US needles, sport weight, baby yarn or fingering yarn. Cast on 52 sts.
Rib in K1, P1 for 8 rows. Work in for 8 rows.
Next Row: Increase in FIRST stitch, knit 26 sts, PLACE MARKER, knit 26 stitches, increase in LAST stitch.
Next Row: Increase in FIRST stitch, increase BEFORE and AFTER marker, increase in LAST st.
Continue until there are 68 sts on needle.
Knit across 34 sts, remove marker, TURN and purl back on 34 sts for the first leg.
Work in Stock. St. for 38 rows.
Knit 4 rows. Bind off. Leave a long strand to sew up pant seam.
Attach yarn and knit across remaining 34 sts for second pant leg.
Stock. St. for 38 rows.
Knit 4 rows. Bind off. Leave another long strand to sew this pant leg and up to waistline.
You will increase in the center of the pants in order to accommodate the doll’s “puffy” cloth body.
Walking Shorts:
Use #6 US needles, sport weight, baby yarn or fingering yarn. Cast on 52 sts.
Work in ribbing for 4 rows, then Garter Stitch (knit every row) for the entire pattern.
Follow instructions for Long Pants (above) until you have 68 sts on needle.
Knit across 34 sts, remove marker, TURN and knit back on these 34 sts for 18 rows.
Bind off. Leave a strand to sew seam. Attach yarn and knit across remaining 34 sts for second leg.
Knit for 18 rows. Bind off. Leave strand to leg seam and back seam.
When garment is complete, turn up a cuff on each pant leg.
Options for Pants:
Easy - for beginners: Choose two colors: Main color (MC) and Contrasting Color (CC), work
ribbing in MC, drop MC and pick up CC, work in CC for 2 rows, drop CC, pick up MC, work for 2
Alternating MC and CC, work each stripe in K1 row, P1 row, Ending with 4 rows of MC. This
makes it easy to count the number of rows completed (one stripe = 2 rows). The dropped color
will follow you down the pant leg as you knit the stripes.
When it’s time to sew the seams, make sure you KNOT SECURELY the two colors at the beginning
of the garment and when you have bound off and are ready to sew the seams.
Work the pattern until you have 68 sts on the needle and are ready to knit each pant leg:
Knit across 34 sts for first leg, TURN and work back on these same 34 sts.
Now you can begin a fancy stitch pattern. (See Options for Dress Patterns above.)
If you want to make pants with flared legs: Work for 19 rows. Then increase on first
and last st on every knit row for 19 rows. Knit 4 rows. Bind off in knit.
#4: Pajama pants look great with the “open lacy” pattern (see Options for Sleeves above), worked on
the legs only.
The following outfits were started with the Basic Sleeveless Dress instructions contained in the
handout. You can see how different they look, just by using various colors....
"Velvet" pastel Sun Dress
Lavender and Multi Pastel Dress
Yellow Shorts Set with Shrug
Holiday Dress/Panties and Tiara Headband
Photo 1: Ballerina with attached panties
Photo 2: "Ripple" Easter Outfit
The full skirt has rows and rows of white
yarn with scattered multi-colored
sequins to make it sparkle. Sequin yarn
was Depart 71 brand.
I used a package of yarn ordered from
Herschenner's - a "bag of pastel yarns": 2
balls of white, yellow, pink, lavender,
light green, and pale blue. This yarn has a
silver metallic thread running through it.
The skirt sparkles in the sunlight!
Photo 3: Holiday Party Dress
This was just a very plain dress pattern
with stock. stitch for the glitter gown:
Vanna's Glamour (Lion Brand) in emerald
green with green metallic strands. It is
trimmed in lots of lovely soft furry yarn
in white "Shaggy Shimmer" by Sundance.
Patriotic Red/White/Blue Outfit
Photo 1: shows my favorite outfit -- soft pink terry
cloth sweater and pants, trimmed in very soft pink fur
with metallic threads. The long tossle cap is perched
on her shoulder.
Photo 2: shows a side view of the pink
sweater and pants. Look in the mirror view
to see the long tossle cap.
Photo 3: shows a beige and brick one-piece jumpsuit with garter
stitch beige jacket, brick pom-pom hat, scarf and boots.
Photo 1: This is a "mistake" that worked out better
than expected. I followed one of the AG patterns I
purchased on-line. It was for a two piece outfit, knit
from the bottom ruffle up to the top. When finished, I
dressed the doll and found the blouse ruffle was way
too close to the skirt ruffle - it looked odd. So...I sewed
the middle of the skirt together to form a pair of shorts
- looks much better, yes?
Photo 2: Cute little Halloween witch...the
full skirt and top have attached striped
panties. I made 3 hats before I settled on
this one.
Photo 3: One piece top in white terry cloth with attached pants in that
new "flowers" yarn. Bernat Baby Jaquard - it's lovely!
Photo 1: Pink party dress, trimmed in darker pink
slightly furry yarn scattered with heart-shaped
sequins - the yarn is cute, but rather difficult when
trying to sew the seams - those sequins get in the
Photo 2: Pink party dress (as above) with a
furry pink shrug trimmed in the heartshaped sequins.
Photo 3: "Easter Sunday - Go to Church" dress, hat and purse. The hat
and skirt are in K2,P2 ribbing, while the bodice is in a special pattern:
Row 1: Knit, Row 2: Purl, Row 3: K2, P2 end with P2, Row 4: P2, K2 end
with K2.
Photo 1: Yellow terry cloth shorts with a multicolored tee shirt and matching multi-colored boots,
with a "cowboy" style yellow hat.
Photo 2: Same outfit as above, showing
the back view with the crossed straps on
the shorts.
Photo 3: This is one of my favorite Easter outfits. I ordered online from
Mary Maxim or Herschenners (I forget which one) a few balls of a very
soft furry yarn with a few metallic threads running through it - the yarn
in wonderful! I have used pink in this outfit. Other outfits have used a
soft yellow, turquoise, white, red and black as various trims. This outfit
makes me happy!
Photo 1: Rose colored dress with a wide pleated
skirt and a simple white "belt". I made a matching
white hat and purse, but it looked unexciting and
plain when I dressed the doll. I don't know how to
crochet - only know how to do a simple chain stitch
- so I did a silly looking chain stitch "flower" in rose
on both the hat and the purse. Now it looks like a
complete outfit.
Photo 3: A lovely pink sweater - attached
to a self-striping pink and white skirt. I am
well known for doing this with my Barbie
outfits and just carried it over to the
American Girl doll. Anything to keep an
outfit "together" so pieces don't get lost!
Photo 2: A mint green dress and matching
boots, using a seed stitch on the sleeves
and skirt. It still lacked "something" when
the doll was dressed. This time I used a
strand of pink yarn and set in "ties" down
the front of the bodice and on each boot.
Much better!
Blue Jumpsuit with Baby Clouds Shrug & Hat