Recipes from Friends, Family & the Field Sarah M. Davies 1 Recipes from Friends, Family and the Field Sarah M. Davies Copyright © 2013 by Sarah M. Davies Cover photo by Lester A. Kish Back cover photo courtesy of the author All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced without written permission of the author. Print Management: Koehler + Co., Bozeman, MT. Printed in U.S.A. First printing September 2013 Design by Yogesh Simpson & Russ Fry 2 Huns flushing from a solid point. Photo by Lester A Kish. 3 For my father, and the land and the dogs we love. And for Jaks, who did not get to hunt long enough. Paintings and illustrations throughout the book by James M Davies. Line drawings by Kristi Lynch. 4 5 Contents Acknowledgements Introduction How to Use This Book 08 10 12 The Game Pot Master Gamebird Recipes Early Mornings and Cold Feet Early Mornings and Cold Feet (essay) Dabbling or Puddle Ducks Duck Recipes Avocation (poem) Canada Geese Goose Recipes 16 17 18 32 33 34 The Other Stuff Hors d’oeuvres Out There (poem) Sauces and Marinades A few Side Dishes A Smattering of Sweets For Our Best Friends Hiking with Guns Hiking with Guns (essay) Chukar Chukar Recipes Chukar Recess (essay) Hungarian Partridge Hungarian Partridge Recipes Sharptail Grouse Sharptail Recipes Forest Grouse Forest Grouse Recipes Sage Hen Sage Hen Recipes Get Here Already (essay) 40 41 42 48 49 50 57 58 62 63 66 67 71 113 132 137 147 157 171 177 Resources and Index Contributors Recipe Resources Conservation Resources Recipe List Index 178 180 180 182 184 Farm Yards and Fence Rows Farm Yards and Fence Rows (essay) Ring-necked Pheasant Pheasant Recipes Pheasants at the Edge of the World (essay) Bobwhite Quail Quail Recipes Mourning Dove Dove Recipes Nothing (essay) 6 74 75 76 95 98 99 107 108 110 7 Acknowledgments M any wonderful people made A Bird Hunter’s Table possible. From inspiration and encouragement to criticism and back-seat cooking, these pages are testament to the people around me. This book would not have been possible without my father, Jim Davies. He taught me to love the outdoors and passed along some of his creative talents. Attempting to follow his footsteps, I studied art in college, trailed him up many hills and canyons after grouse, quail, and pheasant, and got involved in conservation work. We lost Jim Davies unexpectedly in November 2011. He spent his last year painting through the winter in Borrego Springs, CA; the summer fishing in Idaho; and the fall chasing a few birds. I dedicate this book to him and know he will always be with me. Dad had a wonderful way of seeing and painting the sky, and I see his skies nearly every day. His art is infused throughout this book. To my mother, Sally Bingham, I owe thanks for an energy, inquisitiveness, and drive that got me to the finish line on this book project and elsewhere in my life. She was consistently supportive despite the fact that the first meal I ever cooked for her was a disaster (I was attempting to be a vegan and the whole meal resembled cardboard). To my step mom, Patricia Davies, whose ideas and never-ending support means more than I can say. Mary Alice Scott and The Gourmet Gamebird was an inspiration for this project and she helped tremendously by providing some of her own wonderful recipes and reading through the early versions of this book. So many friends were involved with this book as guinea pigs and testers. They even offered to purchase copies before I knew what I was doing! To Chris and Pete Coppolillo, Jo Ann Kish, Will Lassiter, Ben and Penelope Pierce, and many others – thank you for braving my kitchen and being such good friends. This book is filled with wonderful contributions of photos, essays, and the like, generously provided by contributors who are acknowledged in the back of this book. Their talents and my appreciation are boundless. A special thanks to Les Kish for his wonderful photography and for letting me hike and hunt with Jo Ann; Kristi Lynch for all of her fabulous illustrations that grace this book; and Denver Bryan for providing some examples of his incredible photos. I also want to thank Yogesh Simpson for his ideas and talents reflected in the design of the book. And, without Pam Koehler this book may never have been printed. In addition to a love of hunting and fishing, I am fortunate to have a career in conservation, and to have worked for a number of great organizations, including Trout Unlimited. Collectively my experiences and my colleagues have made outstanding contributions to this book. Lastly, there’s Whitney Tilt, who I will never be able to find the words to thank enough. In addition to writing, editing, cooking, tasting, and hunting with me, he provided constant inspiration throughout the process. He never let me feel discouraged and this book might never have come together without him. We share a love of hunting, among many things, and preparing game for the table – he is my partner in this project and going forward in life. 8 The author and her father fishing Stocker Creek, Idaho, 2011. Photo by Patsy Ishiyama. 9 Introduction A This cookbook would not be possible without Mary Alice Scott and her book The Gourmet Gamebird, published in 1980. Mary Alice and her husband, Bob, are avid hunters and put together an original collection of recipes. My father, James M. Davies, illustrated the book. While I wish I had a copy when I cooked my first duck, the book was my bible as I began to fully explore and appreciate game cooking. Bird Hunter’s Table is about cooking, eating, and sharing friendship. It is also about gundogs, gamebirds, and getting outside to enjoy the land. I have many passions in life, two of which are cooking and hunting. I cook because there is nothing better than being with good friends, and sharing wine and great conversation. I hunt because I love working with my dog and hiking for miles in big landscapes. For me, the hunt is about the people who own the land and are gracious and generous enough to share it with me along with their stories of the land. It is about the dogs finding birds in likely and unlikely places. It is about exploring and seeing new places. It is about the wildlife – eagles, pronghorn, elk, snowshoe hares, mice, and even the snakes and porcupines that pose potential harm to the dogs. And, the hunt is the shot of adrenaline you feel walking up to a dog on point, the tenseness and excitement, and joy both of you feel when the bird actually comes down and your dog brings it back to you. Ultimately, hunting is a story of friends and landscapes. 10 Bringing the game to hand is the first part of the story. My ability to hunt has come from years of experience gleaned from my father and many others nice enough to share their expertise and insights. The second part is honoring the game by treating it well and having it bring nourishment and fellowship to the table. Properly preparing and cooking the game has also taken a similar lifetime of experience, of trial and error, and many, many people willing to share their favorite hints and recipes. Inspired by The Gourmet Gamebird, I was constantly collecting and tinkering with new recipes as I enjoyed seasons of chasing gamebirds and bringing them to the table. In 2011, I had the opportunity to visit with Mary Alice Scott and asked her what she thought of a revised The Gourmet Gamebird. She responded enthusiastically and marked her favorite recipes. I asked my father if he would consider illustrating the book and his wife, Patricia, also shared her collection of recipes. With this wonderful core, A Bird Hunter’s Table was well launched. A Bird Hunter’s Table includes over 130 recipes, collectively assembled by friends and family. Prepared in my kitchen, many have been reforged into new creations that I hope you will enjoy. In addition to the recipes, the book includes practical tips, stories from the field, and smattering of natural history. This hodgepodge of learnings and experience are what hunting and cooking are all about. I hope you will have fun cooking, sharing stories, and being with friends. And I hope you will forever work to conserve our wildlife and protect their habitat. 11 As to a few simple rules, I have three: 1) treat your game well and it will treat you well on the table; 2) never overcook the meat; and 3) use spices that enhance, but don’t overpower. How to Use This Book I n A Bird Hunter’s Table, I have brought together a love of the field, the companionship of friends and family, and a collection of tasty gamebird recipes that anyone can cook and enjoy. Truth be told, except for baking and things that need specific measurements, I rarely use complete recipes. I enjoy searching recipes for ideas and find myself constantly experimenting with new combinations of flavors. This book is designed in the same vein, presenting recipes to have fun with. I encourage you to use these recipes as starting points, as guides for further exploration. The majority of recipes in this book can be adapted for any gamebird (or chicken and pork), wild or farm raised. Many specialty grocery stores have guinea hen, quail, duck and pheasant available fresh or frozen. And, while there are recipes presented for specific gamebird species, feel free to substitute other species. For example, if you like the sounds of a duck recipe don’t be afraid to try it with sharptail. And don’t be afraid to simplify everything–try sprinkling salt and pepper over a gamebird breast, pan fry it in olive oil in skillet, and drizzle a fabulous sauce over it. The point is that cooking gamebirds is simple and you needn’t be too concerned about the specific recipe. The same does not apply to cooking times, however, as emphasized below. I try to cook seasonally and while this book does not specifically reflect the seasons, there are heavier dishes for winter and lighter preparations for spring and summer. And you can plan your side dishes to be seasonal. The best meals do not need to be elaborate. The key is to know a few simple rules (see below) and then have fun. The recipes in this book may also be made dairy and gluten free. Feel free to use olive oil or substitute with Earth Balance, a soy based “butter”. There is little gluten in the book and it can be omitted completely. If you have other allergens, I encourage you to explore and substitute ingredients to your tastes. 12 When in the field do a careful job to keep your game clean and cool, field dress as soon as convenient, and when completing the plucking and freezing, make sure birds are clean and dry. The number one mistake in the preparation of game is overcooking the meat. It is always better to undercook. At worst, it can go back on the stove or in the oven. Once overcooked, the game is only fit for the dog, and even she may turn it down. With rare exceptions, wild gamebirds will be leaner than farm raised animals, and cooking times will vary accordingly. So use a meat thermometer, testing by cutting into it, or guess by the firmness. The meat will continue to cook a bit after you remove it from the heat, so best again to err on the side of rare. Chukar, pheasant, quail, and grouse and the other upland birds should have an internal temperature of roughly 130 degrees for rare, while ducks and geese should be around 120 degrees. Many people find it hard to tell when the darker meat –duck, sharptail, sage hen – is cooked but one thing is sure: if the meat looks cooked, then it is overdone. Like many cooks, I regularly start a recipe with garlic and onions, but most important to me and my taste buds are a few dried spices that I always have on hand in my spice cabinet: Chinese five spice (enjoy making your own), cumin, coriander, paprika (Spanish smoked paprika), sumac, and thyme. And more recently some type of homemade zatar rub (see Grilled Gamebird Skewers with Zatar Rub, page 116). Finally, I get my inspiration in a variety of ways and have listed some resources in the back of the book. The cooking of two chefs have given me great guidance: Mario Batali and Jamie Oliver. When I found myself looking for something new, I would more likely than not look to their recipes for ideas. In closing, I am often asked for some of my favorite recipes as a starting point. Here are some suggestions: Duck with Giant Croutons Chukar Puttanesca Herb Marinated Grilled Chukar Breast Hun Curry Soused Sharptail Pheasant Sautéed with Sage, Bacon and Port Wine Pheasant Cassoulet Grilled Gamebird Skewers with Zatar Rub Spanish Gamebird Burgers I hope you will enjoy this book, cooking with friends and family, and sharing stories of the field. 13 Early Mornings & Cold Feet 14 Black Labrador Retriever in blind. Photo by Denver Bryan. 15 Early Mornings and Cold Feet By Whitney Tilt T o rise in the dark hours long before the threat of sunrise; to haul gear through chill air, shucking mud and threatening ice; to sit attempting to hold on to remnants of body warmth; these are among the reasons to question the sanity of waterfowling. Thankfully, our early rise is greeted with joy by our gundog companions, the work setting up blinds and decoys and sitting still in the dark are all prelude to the first sound of whispering wings, of quacks in the dark, and dawn rising in the east. Often the dog is the first to see incoming birds, shaking uncontrollably, not from the cold but from the excitement. Toiling ducks come in hard and fast in the gloaming dawn but become more and more cautious as the light strengthens. From the hard-earned knowledge that movement and upturned faces are a sure way to flair ducks long before coming into range, I fight the urge to look up at the vibrant colors of mallards and pintails as they work the decoys. Hunting companions call birds as they appear, “ten o’clock, low.” Swinging for a proper lead, we are challenged by the layers of camouflage clothing and muscles made stiff from the cold and sitting still. Two greenheads dropped from the incoming flock bring eager dogs into play. Mindless of the cold water and fringe ice, the dogs soon proudly present the ducks for our approval. A job well done to dogs and hunters alike, a confirmation of the species and gender performed, a search for a band and progress toward our bag total completed, we return to searching the skies. What early morning, what cold feet? F DABBLING OR PUDDLE DUCKS ound “bottoms-up” feeding in pond and marsh shallows, dabbling ducks are strong-flying birds which take off almost vertically from the water’s surface. For waterfowl hunters, two species often reign supreme as the ducks to bag and bring to the table – the Mallard and Northern Pintail. Mallards (Anas platyrhynchos), are large ducks with the males sporting the distinctive green head, white neck band, and rusty breast that give them their nickname “Greenheads.” The Mallard is one of the most widely distributed duck species in North America, being found on city park ponds to the prairie potholes of North Dakota. A loud single “quack” or series of “quacks” announce the presence of a female or “Suzy.” In flight, Pintail (Anas acuta) are handsome, agile flyers with a slimmer, long-necked profile than the Mallard. The male “bull sprig” sport long, sharp tails with white underparts and a dark brown head. Its call is a short whistle. By the early 1980s decades of habitat loss and hunting pressure had depressed continental waterfowl populations. Concern among wildlife managers and hunters lead to development and the implementation of the North American Waterfowl Management Plan which targeted priority habitats for acquisition, restoration and enhancement in Canada, Mexico and the United States. The condition of potholes and other wetlands, along with nesting cover, are two factors affecting Mallard and Pintail populations annually. On the table, both Mallard and Pintail provide moist dark red meat, ideal for roasting whole, gently sautéing the breasts, or using the legs for confit. 16 17 Barbecued Duck or Pheasant Halves Lillian Contributed by Lillian Ditchburn from The Gourmet Gamebird 2 whole ducks or pheasants (split with skin on) 1 tablespoon butter ¼ cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons sherry 2 green onions, chopped Lay the split birds skin side down in a shallow dish. In a small sauce pan, combine the butter, soy sauce, sherry, and green onions. Heat until the butter melts and pour over the birds. Marinate the birds for at least one hour. When ready to cook, barbecue the birds for roughly 5-7 minutes per side, depending on the size of the bird, with the lid down. Heat the leftover marinade and serve over the birds with white or wild rice. The birds may also be cooked inside a preheated oven broiler. Ducks in Wine Sauce In the skillet, mix the flour and 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the chicken broth, burgundy, onion, bay leaf, salt and a dash of pepper. Cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Add mushrooms. Pour over the ducks and cover. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 1½ hours until tender. Transfer ducks to a platter (remove bay leaf ) and serve over rice. Duck Supreme Contributed by Mary Alice Scott, The Gourmet Gamebird 2 whole ducks (1 large duck will usually serve 2 people) ¼ cup brandy 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup heavy cream 1/3 cup sour cream Duck livers, mashed 1 cup chicken stock Salt, white pepper and cayenne to taste Parsley Contributed by R. Carter Dye, by way of Patricia Davies Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. 6 wild ducks 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup chicken broth ½ cup burgundy or red wine 2 tablespoons chopped onion 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon salt 8-10 sliced mushrooms (or 1 3-ounce can of sliced mushrooms drained) Place the ducks in a roasting pan and cook rare: Small ducks – 10 minutes; medium ducks – 15 minutes; large ducks – 20 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Simmer ducks, covered, in a small amount of salted water for 20-30 minutes. Drain. Remove the ducks from the oven. Using a sharp knife, fillet off the breast meat with the leg attached. You may want to use a glove to hold the hot bird while carving. Transfer the meat to a platter and cover to keep warm while preparing the sauce. Pour off all the duck fat from the roasting pan and set aside for future use, if desired. In a small saucepan, warm the brandy on the stove and flame. Combine the butter and brandy in the roasting pan and deglaze the pan scarping up the bits. Whisk in the sour cream, mashed duck livers, stock and cream. Continue stirring until the sauce is hot, but not boiling. Add salt, white pepper and cayenne to taste. Pour the brandy cream sauce over the duck halves. Garnish with parsley. Note: The leftover duck is great for lunch. Serve with cold asparagus and mustard mayonnaise. In a skillet heat the butter (adding a bit of oil to keep it from burning) and brown the ducks evenly. Transfer the ducks to a baking dish. 18 19 Pan-seared Duck Breasts with Apple Cider Sauce 4-6 duck breasts, skin on or off 1/2-1 slice of bacon per duck breast (optional) 3-4 tablespoons olive oil Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste 2-3 cloves garlic, minced, to taste 3 tablespoons Worcestershire 1 cup unfiltered apple juice (or 1 cup apple cider and no vinegar) ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ¼ cup dry sherry or Marsala 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 2-3 tablespoons chilled butter ¼ cup shallots or green onions, chopped (or combination) Wash the duck breasts and pat dry. Season the duck with salt, pepper and minced garlic. Heat roughly 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking. Add duck to pan. If your breasts have skin, place the duck skin side down. If not place the duck on top of a slice of bacon (see note below). Drizzle 11/2 tablespoons Worcestershire over the duck. Turn the meat once and brown the meat on the other side, but not past rare. About 3 minutes a side. Drizzle the remaining Worchester when you turn the ducks. Place the duck on a plate and cover loosely with a foil tent. Add the shallots to the pan and cook until softened. Scrape the bottom of the skillet to loosen any browned bits. Add additional garlic if you like, and olive oil if necessary (you should not need to add any additional oil if you are using bacon). Add the apple juice, vinegar, lemon juice, sherry, and thyme to the pan and reduce to about ¼ to ½ cup. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove the pan from heat and whisk in the butter until emulsified. Slice the duck and arrange on plates. Spoon sauce over and top and serve. Spicy Duck Breasts Adapted from The Gourmet Gamebird 4 wild duck breasts, skinned and deboned 1 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons butter 4 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons Worcestershire 2 tablespoons green pepper or jalapeño jelly (or substitute currant jelly) 4 tablespoons brandy 1½ cup red wine Tabasco Sliced mushrooms (optional) Wash and pat the duck breasts dry. Dust each breast with flour. Heat the oil and butter in a skillet until bubbly. Brown the breasts evenly, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the breasts from the pan and set aside on a warm plate. Add the green onions to the skillet and cook 2 minutes. Add the jelly and stir until it melts. Add the brandy, wine, Worcestershire, mushrooms, and a drop of Tabasco. Boil until the mixture thickens and reduces to about ½ (about 5 minutes). To finish, add the breasts to the sauce and reheat thoroughly turning them in the sauce (about 3 minutes) until done. They should still be pink. Slice or serve one breast per person on a plate and spoon the sauce over the top. Dad’s advice: Don’t use birds that have been migrating across the bay or salt water for a week. Note: I recommend including the bacon in the recipe whether your birds have skin or not. Simply cook the bacon prior to cooking the birds. And, if your birds do not have skin on, you should place the bacon in the pan with the breast on top. You will turn the bacon and then turn the bird on top of the bacon. 20 21 Contributors Denver Bryan is an internationally published photographer whose work has won numerous awards, appeared in books as well as graced the pages of magazines such as National Wildlife, Field & Stream, Smithsonian, National Geographic and many others. Originally a wildlife biologist by training, Denver has traveled extensively and photographed the wildlife of North America and Africa. He lives with his wife Anne and two retrievers in Bozeman, MT. www.denverbryan.com. Kristi Lynch hails from Pasadena, California. She has been married 40 years to Philip, and has two daughters and five grandchildren. Kristi graduated as an art major from the University of Southern California. She is now retired in the Wood River Valley, Idaho with her family and enjoys the many beautiful natural scenes to study and paint. Steve and Janis Barrett Betsy Blatcher Fitz Coker and Dotty Ballantyne Chris and Pete Coppolillo Charles Conn Allison Davies James Davies Matthew Davies Patricia Davies R Carter Dye Caroline Galloway Les Kish shown here in the Brooks Range of Alaska, has hunted and fished extensively throughout North America. Nowadays, he hunts less, fishes more, and usually packs a camera. His outdoor musings can be found on his blog “The Ignorant Angler” (theignorantangler.blogspot.com). Barbara Gerber Patsy Ishiyama Jean Kahn Jo Ann Kish Tom Reed is the author of three books and a frequent contributor to Mouth- ful of Feathers, a bird hunting blog, www.mouthfuloffeathers.com. He lives in hot pursuit of four English setters and can be found outside the small mountain town of Pony, MT, when he slows down. For more information see tomreedbooks.com. Will Lassiter Janet Lily Greg McReynolds John Montague Ed Opler Mary Alice Scott Richard Price Whitney Tilt operates a consulting business in Bozeman, MT specializing in strategic Chris Tilt planning, evaluation, and issue management on a wide range of natural resource issues. He is a partner in High Country Apps and develops field guides for smart phones and tablets, as well as the author of Flora of Montana’s Gallatin Region (2011). When not focused on natural resources conservation, Whitney is to be found “sampling” the resource, fishing, hunting, hiking and otherwise enjoying the outdoors. 178 Laura Opler published The Gourmet Gamebird in 1980 which my father, Jim Davies, illustrated. The Gourmet Gamebird has been a staple in many kitchens and it is through her generosity and inspiration that A Bird Hunter’s Table is possible. Mary Alice lives in Hillsborough, CA with her husband Bob and continues to enjoy a passion for hunting and preparing game for the table. Bob Renier Jane Slater Bob Stephens Mac Tilt Sally Uhlmann Fred Vogel 179 Recipe Resources All About Roasting, Molly Stevens, W. W. Norton & Company, 2011 Duck Country: Ducks Unlimited Cookbook, Billy Joe Cross, Ducks Unlimited, Inc., 1998 The Gourmet Gamebird, Mary Alice Scott, The Duck Press, 1980 Happy Days with the Naked Chef, Jamie Oliver, Hyperion Books, 2002 How to Eat, Nigella Lawson, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2002 HuntFishCook.com, Scott Layseth Molto Italiano, Mario Batalli, HarperCollins Publishers, Inc., 2005 Savory Wild Game Cookbook, Chuck and Blanche Johnson, Wilderness Adventures Press, 2004 Simple Italian Food, Mario Batalli, Clarkson Potter Publishers, 1998 Seven Fires, Grilling the Argentine Way, Francis Mallman, Artisan, 2009 The Food Network, www.foodnetwork.com/topics/pheasant Wild About Game, Janie Hibler, Broadway Books, 1998 Conservation Resources The following are several organizations working to protect our hunting heritage and opportunities. If you are not already a member of one or more of these organizations and are a bird hunter, please consider becoming a member or volunteering. Delta Waterfowl P.O. Box 3128 Bismarck, ND 58502 Phone: 888-987-3695 www.deltawaterfowl.org Ducks Unlimited, Inc. One Waterfowl Way Memphis, Tennessee, USA 38120 Phone: 1-800-45DUCKS or 901-758-3825 www.ducks.org Pheasants Forever, Inc. 1783 Buerkle Circle St Paul, MN 55110 Phone: 651-773-2000 or 877-773-2070 Email: [email protected] www.pheasantsforever.org 180 Quail Forever Phone: 866-457-8245 www.quailforever.org Ruffed Grouse Society 451 McCormick Road Coraopilis, PA 15108 Phone: 888-5646-747 (888-JOIN-RGS) Email: [email protected] www.ruffedgrousesociety.org Trout Unlimited 1300 North 17th Street, Suite 500 Arlington, VA 22209 Phone: 800-834-2419 Email: [email protected] www.tu.org 181 Recipe List Early Mornings and Cold Feet Duck Barbecued Duck or Pheasant Halves Lillian 18 Ducks in Wine Sauce 18 Duck Supreme19 Pan-Seared Duck Breasts with Apple Cider Sauce 20 Spicy Duck Breasts21 Duck Stew23 Duck and Sausage Gumbo 24 Duck Burgers with Pecan Crust 25 Wild Duck Breasts with Cilantro Butter 27 Duck with Giant Croutons 28 Goose Bob Steven’s Tender Goose 34 Barbecued Goose Breast with Bacon 34 Goose Breast Roulade 35 Slow Roasted Goose36 Hiking with Guns Chukar Orange Stuffed Chukar 42 Barbecued Stuffed Chukar 44 Herb Marinated Grilled Chukar Breast 45 Balsamic Glazed Roasted Chukar 46 Chukar Puttanesca47 Hungarian Partridge Quick and Easy Sautéed Hungarian Partridge or Sharptail50 Pan-Fried Hungarian Partridge with Pearl Barley, Peas and Lettuce51 George’s Sautéed Partridge Breasts 52 Fried Hungarian Partridge 53 Hun Curry54 Hun Ragout55 Sharptail Grouse Grouse with Mascarpone and Thyme 58 Roast Grouse with Gin and Juniper Berries 59 Soused Sharptail60 Trespassers Grouse Sauté 61 182 Forest Grouse Dove Sauces and Marinades Northup-Style Ruffed Grouse with Artichoke Hearts 63 Marinated Grilled Ruffed or Blue Grouse 64 Ruffed Grouse Cacciatore 65 Dove de Navajoa Oscar 108 Sherried Dove108 Dove on a Nest 109 Sage Grouse The Game Pot: Master Gamebird Recipes Chimichurri145 Sweet Heat Marinade146 Port Wine Gamebird Sauce 146 No-Fail Marinade147 Fred’s Poo Butter147 Cook’s Favorite Plum Sauce 148 Cranberry Sauce148 Blackberry Brandy Sauce 150 Chutney Mustard Dressing 150 Cumberland Sauce151 Madeira Sauce151 Green Tomato Chutney 152 Peach Chutney153 Barbecued Sage Hen or Blue Grouse Sage Hen Spanish Stew Sage Hen and Chukar Kabobs with Chipotle Barbecue Sauce Mary Alice’s Sage Hen Fajitas 67 68 69 70 Farm Yards and Fence Rows Pheasant Pheasant Braised with Red Cabbage and Chestnuts 76 Pheasant Cutlets with Wild Mushrooms 77 Pheasant Sautéed with Sage, Bacon and Port Wine 78 Pheasant Paprikash79 Pheasant Breast in Brandy Horseradish 81 Braised Pheasant with Mushrooms and Bacon 82 Jean Kahn’s Pheasant Piccata 83 Asian Style Pheasant with Orange Flavor 84 Pheasant Fajitas with Pear, Lime and Mint Salsa 85 Pheasant (Gamebird) Pot Pie 86 Pheasant Cassoulet88 Easy Tomato Sauce89 Pheasant Stroganoff90 Pheasant Jambalaya91 Roasted Pheasant and Oyster Gumbo 92 Flushed Pheasant painting 93 Pheasant Chili94 Quail Pan-Fried Quail with Marsala Sauce Sally Ulmann’s Quail with Sausage Roasted Quail with Grapes Salmon Kill Farm Quail Mary’s Yemesee Quail Grilled Quail with Pancetta, White Beans and Sage Grilled Marinated Quail with Sherry Red Pepper Sauce Grilled Quail with Jalapeño Accent Barbecued Quail Stuffed with Paté 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 106 Gamebirds in Red Wine with Italian Sausage 114 Italian Sausage115 Grilled Gamebird Skewers with Zatar Rub 116 Braised Gamebirds117 Roast of Gamebirds118 Gamebird Stir Fry120 Gamebird Enchiladas121 Gamebird Tagine122 Pan-Roasted Gamebirds with Asparagus and Chanterelles123 Gamebird Marsala124 Hunters Sausage125 Gamebirds with Figs and Port Wine Sauce 126 Spanish Gamebird Burgers 127 Lemon-Saffron Mayonnaise127 Pheasant and Sausage Pizza 128 Pheasant Pizza with Asparagus, Ricotta, and Arugula 129 The Other Stuff Hors d’oeuvres Spicy Asian Wild Duck Poppers 132 Arizona Quail Jalapeño Poppers 133 Tangy Duck Nuggets134 Pineapple Pheasant Legs 134 Pheasant Strips135 Mercedes’ Pheasant Bites 135 Gamebird Empanadas 136 Smoked Goose Breast 137 Chinese Style Minced Sharptail Grouse in Lettuce Cups 138 Duck Breast Carpaccio 139 Hungarian Duck140 Dad’s Duck Appetizer 140 Gamebird Skewers141 Wild Gamebird Paté with Brandy, Bacon, and Herbs 142 Rillettes Goose143 A Few Side Dishes Arugula and Watercress Salad with Pomegranate Seeds and Avocado 155 Asian Slaw156 Asparagus, Mint, and Lemon Risotto 157 Green Chili Risotto158 Ed’s Favorite Red Cabbage 159 Carbonara Cervicatti160 Creamy Polenta161 Roasted New Potatoes with Sea Salt and Rosemary 162 Turnip and Carrot Puree 162 Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sweet Potatoes and Bacon163 Lock and Ellie’s Vegetable Galette 164 Rustic Dough for Savory Tarts 165 Wild Rice with Butternut Squash, Leeks, and Corn166 Wild Mushroom Ragout 167 A Smattering of Sweets Caramelized Clementines169 Warm Curried Fruit170 Blood Orange or Pear Cake 171 Snack Granola172 Best Apple or Mixed Berry Crisp 173 For our Best Friends Buddy Biscuits175 Bacon Cookies 175 183 Index A Appetizer, Dad’s Duck Apple or Mixed Berry Crisp, Best Artichoke Hearts, Northup-Style Ruffed Grouse with Arugula and Watercress Salad with Pomegranate Seeds and Avocado Asparagus Risotto with Mint, and Lemon Asparagus, Pan-Roasted Gamebirds with Chanterelles and B Balsamic Glazed Roasted Chukar Barbecued Goose Breast with Bacon Barbecued Lillian Duck or Pheasant Halves Barbecued Sage Hen or Blue Grouse Barbecued Stuffed Chukar Blood Orange or Pear Cake Brandy Horseradish, Pheasant Breast in Brussels Sprouts, Roasted with Sweet Potatoes and Bacon Burgers, Duck with Pecan Crust Burgers, Spanish Gamebird Butter, Fred’s Poo Butternut Squash, Wild Rice with Leeks, Corn, and C 142 175 63 157 159 123 46 34 18 67 44 173 81 165 25 127 149 168 Cabbage, Ed’s Favorite Red 161 Cacciatore, Grouse 65 Cake, Blood Orange or Pear 173 Carbonara Cervicatti 162 Carpaccio, Duck Breast 141 Carrot Puree, Turnip and 164 Cassoulet, Pheasant 88 Chili, Pheasant 94 Chimichurri147 Chipotle Barbecue Sauce, Sage Hen and Chukar Kabobs with 69 Chukar Breast, Herb Marinated Grilled 45 Chukar Puttanesca 47 Chukar, Balsamic Glazed Roasted 46 184 Chukar, Barbecued Stuffed Chukar, Orange Stuffed Chutney Mustard Dressing Chutney, Green Tomato Chutney, Peach Cilantro Butter, Duck Breasts with Clementines, Caramelized Cranberry Sauce Crisp, Best Apple or Mixed Berry Cumberland Sauce Curried Fruit, Warm Curry, Hun D Dog Biscuits, Buddy Dog Cookies, Bacon Dough, Rustic for Savory Tarts Dove de Navajoa Oscar Dove on a Nest Dove, Sherried Dressing, Chutney Mustard Duck Breast Carpaccio Duck Breasts with Cilantro Butter Duck Breasts, Pan-Seared with Apple Cider Sauce Duck Breasts, Spicy Duck Burgers with Pecan Crust Duck Nuggets, Tangy Duck or Pheasant Halves, Barbecued Lillian Duck Stew Duck Supreme Duck with Giant Croutons Duck Wraps, Doc’s Duck, Dad’s Appetizer Duck, Hungarian Duck, Spicy Asian Poppers Ducks in Wine Sauce E Empanadas, Gamebird Enchiladas, Gamebird Fajitas, Mary Alice’s Sage Hen 44 42 152 154 155 27 171 150 175 153 172 54 177 177 167 108 109 108 152 141 27 20 21 25 134 18 23 19 28 136 142 142 132 18 138 121 70 Fajitas, Pheasant with Pear, Lime and Mint Salsa Fruit, Warm Curried G Gamebird Burgers, Spanish Gamebird Empanadas Gamebird Enchiladas Gamebird Marsala Gamebird Skewers Gamebird Skewers, Grilled with Zatar Rub Gamebird Stir Fry Gamebird Tagine Gamebirds in Red Wine with Italian Sausage Gamebirds with Figs and Port Wine Sauce Gamebirds, Braised Gamebirds, Pan-Roasted with Asparagus and Chanterelles Gamebirds, Roast of Giant Croutons, Duck with Gin and Juniper Berries, Roast Grouse with Goose Breast Roulade Goose Breast, Barbecued with Bacon Goose Breast, Smoked Goose, Bob Steven’s Tender Goose, Rillettes Goose, Slow Roasted Granola, Snack Green Chili Risotto Green Tomato Chutney Grouse Cacciatore Grouse with Mascarpone and Thyme Grouse, Marinated Grilled Ruffed or Blue Grouse, Northup-Style Ruffed with Artichoke Hearts Grouse, Roast with Gin and Juniper Berries Grouse, Trespassers Sauté Gumbo, Blackwater Gumbo, Pheasant and Oyster H Herb Marinated Grilled Chukar Breast 85 172 127 138 121 124 143 116 120 122 114 126 117 123 118 28 59 35 34 139 34 145 36 174 160 154 65 58 64 63 59 61 24 92 45 Horseradish, Pheasant Breast in Brandy Hun Curry Hun Ragout Hungarian Partridge or Sharptail, Quick and Easy Sautéed Hungarian Partridge, Fried Hungarian Partridge, Pan-Fried with Pearl Barley, Peas and Lettuce I Italian Sausage, Gamebirds in Red Wine with J Jalapeño Accent, Grilled Quail with Jalapeño, Arizona Quail Poppers Jambalaya, Pheasant 81 54 55 50 53 51 114 106 133 91 K Kabobs, Sage Hen and Chukar with Chipotle Barbecue Sauce M Madeira Sauce Marinade, No-Fail Marinade, Sweet Heat Marsala Sauce, Pan-Fried Quail with Mascarpone and Thyme, Grouse with Mayonnaise, Lemon-Saffron Mushroom Ragout, Wild O Orange Stuffed Chukar 69 153 149 148 99 58 127 169 42 P Pan-fried Hungarian Partridge with Pearl Barley, Peas and Lettuce Paprikash, Pheasant Partridge Breasts, George’s Sautéed Paté, Gamebird with Brandy, Bacon, and Herbs Peach Chutney 51 79 52 144 155 185 Pheasant and Oyster Gumbo Pheasant Bites, Mercedes’ Pheasant Braised with Red Cabbage and Chestnuts Pheasant Breast in Brandy Horseradish Pheasant Cassoulet Pheasant Chili Pheasant Cutlets with Wild Mushrooms Pheasant Fajitas with Pear, Lime and Mint Salsa Pheasant Jambalaya Pheasant Legs, Pineapple Pheasant Paprikash Pheasant Piccata, Jean Kahn’s Pheasant Sautéed with Sage, Bacon and Port Wine Pheasant Strips Pheasant Stroganoff Pheasant, Asian Style with Orange Flavor Pheasant, Braised with Mushrooms and Bacon Piccata, Jean Kahn’s Pheasant Pizza, Pheasant and Sausage Pizza, Pheasant with Asparagus, Ricotta, and Arugula Plum Sauce, Cook’s Favorite Polenta, Creamy Poppers, Arizona Jalapeño Quail Poppers, Spicy Asian Duck Port Wine Gamebird Sauce Port Wine Sauce, Gamebirds with Figs and Potatoes, Roasted New with Sea Salt and Rosemary Puree, Turnip and Carrot Puttanesca, Chukar Q Quail, Arizona Jalapeño Poppers Quail, Barbecued Stuffed with Paté Quail, Grilled Marinated with Sherry Red Pepper Sauce Quail, Grilled with Jalapeño Accent Quail, Grilled with Pancetta, White Beans and Sage Quail, Mary’s Yemesee 186 92 135 76 81 88 94 77 85 91 141 79 83 78 135 90 84 82 83 128 129 150 163 133 132 148 126 164 164 47 133 106 105 106 104 103 Quail, Pan-Fried with Marsala Sauce Quail, Roasted with Grapes Quail, Sally Ulmann’s with Sausage Quail, Salmon Kill Farm R Ragout, Hun Red Cabbage and Chestnuts, Pheasant Braised with Rice, Wild with Butternut Squash, Leeks, and Corn Risotto, Asparagus, Mint, and Lemon Risotto, Green Chili Roulade, Goose Breast 99 101 100 102 55 76 168 159 160 35 S Sage Hen and Chukar Kabobs with Chipotle Barbecue Sauce Sage Hen Fajitas, Mary Alice’s Sage Hen or Blue Grouse, Barbecued Sage Hen Spanish Stew Salad, Arugula and Watercress with Pomegranate Seeds and Avocado Sauce, Apple Cider Sauce, Blackberry Brandy Sauce, Chimichurri Sauce, Chipotle Barbecue Sauce, Cook’s Favorite Plum Sauce, Cranberry Sauce, Cumberland Sauce, Easy Tomato Sauce, Madeira Sauce, Port Wine Gamebird Sausage, Hunter’s Sausage, Italian Sausage, Sally Ulmann’s Quail with Sautéed Hungarian Partridge or Sharptail, Quick and Easy Sautéed Partridge Breasts, George’s Sharptail Grouse, Chinese Style Minced in Lettuce Cups Sharptail, Soused Sherry Red Pepper Sauce, Grilled Marinated Quail with Slaw, Asian Soused Sharptail Stew, Duck Stew, Sage Hen Spanish Stroganoff, Pheasant Sweet Potatoes, Roasted with Brussels Sprouts and Bacon T Tagine, Gamebird Tomato Sauce, Easy 105 158 60 23 68 90 165 122 89 Turnip and Carrot Puree 164 V Vegetable Galette, Lock and Ellie’s W Wild Mushrooms, Pheasant Cutlets with Wild Rice with Butternut Squash, Leeks, and Corn Wine Sauce, Ducks in Z Zatar Rub, Grilled Gamebird Skewers with 166 77 168 18 116 69 70 67 68 157 20 152 147 69 150 150 153 89 153 148 125 115 100 50 52 140 60 Cold morning for Brillo. Photo by Jim Davies. 187 Some Useful Kitchen Measuring Equivalents Notes Measures 1/8 cup = ¼ cup = 1/3 cup = ½ cup = 2/3 cup = ¾ cup = 1 cup = 1 tablespoon 2 tablespoons 4 tablespoons 5 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon 8 tablespoons 10 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons 12 tablespoons 16 tablespoons = = = = 3 teaspoons 6 teaspoons = 1 fluid ounce 12 teaspoons = 2 fluid ounces 16 teaspoons = 3 fluid ounces = = 24 teaspoons = 4 fluid ounces 32 teaspoons = 5 fluid ounces = = 36 teaspoons = 6 fluid ounces 48 teaspoons = 8 fluid ounces Measures 1 pint = 2 cups = 16 fluid ounces 1 quart = 2 pints = 4 cups 1 gallon = 4 quarts = 8 pints = 32 fluid ounces = 16 cups weight 1 pound = 16 ounces 188 189 190 Feeling small in Montana’s big sky. Photo by Whitney Tilt. 191 Sarah M. Davies and Chace. Photo by Lester A Kish. About the Author Sarah M. Davies is an outdoor enthusiast and loves to hunt and fish with her dogs. When she is not working for natural resource conservation and Trout Unlimited in Bozeman, Montana, she may be found cooking and entertaining. This is her first book. “In the spirit of Aldo Leopold’s classic writings, it’s important for all of us to remember where our food comes from – the land. Wise conservation of our natural resources protects our outdoor heritage, water resources and the food on our tables.” – Howard Vincent, President & CEO, Pheasants Forever and Quail Forever “Bringing game home from the field to share with friends and family is a part of all of our love and enjoyment of the outdoors. Inside these pages you will find some great ideas for how to do just that.” – Chris Wood, President & CEO, Trout Unlimited A portion of all book sales will go back to wildlife conservation through Pheasants Forever and Trout Unlimited. $19.95 ISBN 978-0-615-86646-8 51995> 9 780615 866468 194 A Bird Hunter’s Table is about cooking, eating, and sharing friendship. It is also about gundogs, gamebirds, and getting outside to enjoy the land. A Bird Hunter’s Table includes over 130 recipes, collectively assembled by friends and family. In addition to the recipes, the book includes stories from the field and smattering of natural history.
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