year in review

2015 TR ADE SHOWS
ACCESSORIES THE SHOW (NYC)
Jan. 4 - 6
Feb. 23 -25
ACCESSORIES THE SHOW (L as Vegas)
Feb. 16 -18
ATL ANTA APPAREL SHOW
Jan. 29- Feb. 2
Mar. 19-23
Jun. 11-14
Aug. 6 -10
Oc t. 15 -19
ATL ANTA SHOE MARKET
Feb. 12-14
Jun. 10 -11
Aug. 22-24
Dec. 9-10
DALL AS MARKET CENTER APPAREL
Jan. 21-24
DALL AS MARKET CENTER-TEMP
Jan. 15 -18
FFANY
Feb. 3 -5
Jun. 2- 4
Aug. 4 - 6
Dec. 2- 4
MAGIC
Feb. 17-19
Aug. 17-19 ( TBC)
SMOTA
Mar. 1-3
Jun. 28 -30
Aug. 30 -Sept. 1
SURF EXPO
Jan. 8 -10
Sept. TBD
TR ANSIT L A MART
Jan. 11-14
Mar. 15 -18
Jun. 7-10
Aug. 2-5
TRU SHOW (San Francisco)
Feb. 8 -9
HUNTER’S
TARGET
Why the boot brand
is zeroing in on new
markets & broader styles
HOLIDAY HITS
FOOTWEAR NEWS| DECEMBER 22, 2014 | VOLUME 70 | NO. 43
Year in
Review
Big breaks. Famous fails. And the top
moments caught online. FN looks at all that
captured and kept the industry’s attention.
Pierre Hardy masters mystery
& Madden talks tradition
FEBRUARY 3-5, 2015
TUESDAY–THURSDAY
New York Hilton Midtown
& Member Showrooms
Shop FFANY 365 days a year–visit ffany365.com
SAVE THE DATE:
June 2–4, 2015 (Tuesday–Thursday)
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INSIDER
UP FRONT × NEWSMAKERS × ON DEADLINE
Inside the new
Regent Street store
Hunter’s Mark
PHOTO: COURTESY OF HUNTER
It isn’t always easy to take a heritage brand into new territory, but the rainboot
specialist is creating big buzz with its aggressive expansion strategy. BY KATIE ABEL
W
hen Hunter Boot Ltd.
debuted a high-tech flagship store in London last
month, a dance troupe
decked out in the brand
from head to toe took over Regent Street to
perform “Singin’ in the Rain.”
It was a big splash for the 158-year-old rainboot label, which has spent 2014 diversifying
its product assortment, raising its profile on
the London Fashion Week runway and pushing into new markets.
“We’ve done a lot in the last 18 months, and
we’re excited about how the business is developing,” said CEO and global president James
Seuss, who joined the brand in 2012. (Hunter’s
controlling shareholder is Searchlight Capital
Partners; Pentland Group LLC is a minority
investor.)
Under Seuss and creative director Alasdhair
Willis, the husband of Stella McCartney who
was hired last year, the brand has been working to refresh its core Wellington boot look
with clever updates. For spring ’15, Hunter
also is tapping into new footwear categories
from heels and oxfords to sneakers and booties. In addition, it is expanding with more
outerwear and accessories offerings.
While some footwear firms have found
it challenging to expand beyond their core
DECEMBER 22, 2014 |
|1
INSIDER
UP FRONT × Hunter Boot
James
Seuss
major upswing.
“We saw significant
increases in both wholesale and e-commerce,”
said Wendy Svarre,
president and CEO of
Hunter North America.
She cited successful
expansion into highend stores such as Kirna
Zabete, Intermix and
On the
Barneys New York.
runway
in London
Here, Seuss talks about
what’s next on the agenda,
emerging social media platforms
and the power of appealing to a
wide consumer audience.
It’s been a busy two years for
you. What did you want to
achieve with your fresh strategy?
JS: When we did our five-year, longrange plan, we wanted to keep the focus
on footwear and develop other kinds of
styles. We wanted to refresh the iconic
boot, but we’re doing a lot more than
just that. We’ve worked hard on merchandising all the new products, from
bags to socks, outerwear and footwear.
It all looks good together. It’s what you
would expect Hunter to
look like.
Q&A
Has the expansion allowed you to push into
new retail doors?
JS: We are developing
larger presences within
Nordstrom where we
have some shop-in-shops
now. Barneys is carrying our product. We’ve
had great success with
our younger consumer
at Urban Outfitters as
well as independents. So
we’ve achieved a balanced
business.
What is the significance
of the London store
launch?
JS: Regent Street is a
destination for U.K.
consumers, Europeans,
Americans, Asians. It
provides great exposure
for the brand and allows
2|
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
us to gauge consumer reaction
very quickly. Now we’re looking for a store in New York
that would be our first U.S.
location.
Who is your main competition today?
JS: The consumer is definitely
buying Ugg — that boot has
been competition in footwear
[overall]. In terms of the rainboot category, we’re the market
leader. We have Aigle as a competitor in Europe, especially in France.
Le Chameau is [a rival] for high-end
shooting boots.
Has your consumer demographic
changed?
JS: We’re focused on a core group of
consumers with Hunter Original and
Hunter Field, but basically everyone
can buy into the brand in some way.
We have kids wearing them, we have
the Queen [of England] wearing them.
We’ve opened up a lot more opportunities for consumers to experience.
How are you using social media to drive
the business?
JS: We used Grabyo [real-time, geotargeted video content sharing across
Twitter] for our runway show. It was
the first time a fashion brand did it,
and [it proved to be] successful for
our younger consumers. We are trying
to lead on our technology messaging,
focusing on our product but also the excitement around the brand. A lot of the
social media is relevant to our festival
audience, too.
Looking ahead, what markets are you
focusing on?
JS: The U.S. is our No. 1 market, and
the U.K. is No. 2. Japan, Canada and
Korea are strong for us. Next year,
we’ll open a flagship store in Tokyo
with our partner Itochu. We opened a
new store in Taipei, Taiwan. We’re in
Hong Kong, but we’re working on our
mainland China strategy. Everyone
wants to be there, and it will be a focus
for us, but we want to make sure we’re
approaching it in the right way. Ecommerce is a big part of that: We just
launched our global website.
The most read stories on the all-new
Footwearnews.com
last week.
Top Shoe
Moments of 2014
Red-carpet hits and
big celeb moments
Rihanna’s Best
Shoe Looks
Puma’s new talent
had quite a year
Poll: Best
Footwear
Department
Who won? Click in.
Brown Sells
Shoes.com
Canadian e-tailer
buys web biz
Gregg Ribatt
Named Crocs CEO
Exec charged with
brand turnaround
PHOTOS: SEUSS, RUNWAY: COURTESY OF HUNTER; SHOE MOMENTS, RIHANNA: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
styles, Hunter is finding early success by
playing up its heritage in every product
it rolls out.
“We stuck to the DNA of the boot,
so everything feels authentic and true
to our roots,” Seuss said. “We haven’t
just gone to an opposite extreme that a
consumer wouldn’t buy into.”
Scott Meden, EVP and GMM of shoes
at Nordstrom — which partnered with
Hunter on six shop-in-shops for fall —
said the company’s strategy is resonating with consumers. “It is natural for
them to extend into additional categories, particularly when they are weather-related,” Meden said. “They are
good partners because they are great
communicators, listen to our business
needs and react accordingly.”
Beyond strengthening its presence in key wholesale doors, Hunter
is also ramping up its focus on retail,
most notably with the opening of the
5,000-sq.-ft. flagship on Regent Street.
“It’s a massive statement for the brand,
and demonstrates our commitment to
growing the business,” Willis said.
Now, the label is focused on aggressive global expansion, with plans for
Asia and the U.S., where business is on a
Only
Online
January 19-21, 2015
Jacob Javits Center | New York
New York’s First Men’s Contemporary
Footwear Destination
February 17-19, 2015
Las Vegas Convention Center,
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Lola Kirke
and Peter Vack
Malcolm
McDowell,
Bernadette
Peters and
Gael García
Bernal
Amazon’s new original comedy series, “Mozart in the Jungle,”
pulls back the curtain on the sex-and-drug-filled world of the
New York Symphony Orchestra. The series, which will release all
10 episodes on Amazon Prime tomorrow, is a clash of cultures, as
new star conductor Rodrigo (played by Gael García Bernal) tries
to shake up the stuffy old guard, represented by actors Malcolm
McDowell and Bernadette Peters. For the show’s costume designer, Katie Riley, the challenge was to balance the glamorous
world of the wealthy elite with the life of a working musician. “It’s
about setting up all the contrasts. The key for the down-to-earth
look is keeping it real — aging pieces to make them look more lived
in,” she explained. And she did all of that at a rapid pace. “[We
were] shooting a new episode every few days. That makes you
have to think fast and work quickly,” she said.
What was your thought process for outfitting the actors?
KR: I start by chatting with the cast about their thoughts on the
character. Gael had great ideas about picking up on a folkloric energy.
So we found pieces from all over the world and incorporated them
into his look, as if he had picked them up on his worldly travels.
Where did you turn for inspiration?
KR: New York is like another character in “Mozart in the
Jungle,” so street style was my biggest inspiration for the
show. I’m constantly taking photos of people I pass on the
train and on the streets.
Any favorite shoe brands you used for the female
characters?
KR: I love Hailey’s [played by Lola Kirke] mix of practical boots — we
used Frye and Splendid — and her Teva sneakers for pounding the
pavement in the city. And Gloria’s [played by Peters] symphony chairman character is on the other end of the spectrum, [wearing] Saint
Laurent and Pour La Victoire.
And what about the guys?
KR: McDowell’s Thomas has a few great pairs of Clarks Desert boots
that I love. They break in so beautifully. We also had some great vintage combat boots for Rodrigo. He wears them with a variey of looks,
from formalwear suits to jeans and T-shirts.
JANUARY 16–20
Attend the Denver Market
to see for yourself why Exhibitors
and Buyers continuously
return to Denver to support
WESA Markets!
Where The Industry Meets
To Register In Advance:
Fax: 303-295-0941
Website: denver-wesa.com
Email: [email protected]
Find us on facebook.
High Holiday
Can we expect any good footwear moments in the series?
KR: Rodrigo does have a few fun sneaker moments, but I don’t want
to give anything away.
INTERNATIONAL WESTERN/ENGLISH APPAREL & EQUIPMENT MARKET
888-933-9372 or 303-295-1084
SPY
Good Advice
As the year comes to a close,
Kendrick Lamar is feeling philosophical. The hip-hop phenom
and new Reebok collaborator
said his only
resolution is
to keep upping
his game every
moment of the
day. “I want
to put out
Kendrick
great product
Lamar
and challenge
Pierre Hardy is a man of
mystery — when it comes
to presents, that is. “I
love surprises,” he told
Spy of his favorite holiday gifts. The French
designer recently
made a trip to New
Pierre
York, where he visited Hardy
his favorite Japanese
restaurant, Omen. Plus, he showed
off his pre-fall ’15 collection. “It’s
quite contrasting,” he said. “One
part of the collection is very feminine. Heels and colors are sensual
and shapes are very delicate. There
is also simplicity, let’s do it clear and
simple. A lot of inspiration was in
the midst of sexiness, in the lightness of the 1970s and ’80s.”
HIT LIST
Steve Madden never shies away
from voicing his opinion, especially when it comes to music,
among other things. Here, Spy
catches up on a few of his
favorites and even his least
favorites, too.
Holiday tradition: “Decorating the Christmas tree
with the kids.”
Musician on repeat:
Ed Sheeran. “My kids
are crazy about him.”
Steve Madden
Best TV show: “‘Sonic
Highways’ on HBO.”
By Kristen Henning, with contributions from Jennie Bell
Trend you wish would
go away: Jelly sandals.
Favorite song of
the season: “The
Eagles’ version
of ‘Please Come
Home for
Christmas.’”
PHOTOS: LAMAR: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
Double Sharp
myself to do different things. You
don’t want to be stagnant in
whatever area you’re in,” he
told FN earlier this month
during a press junket
at the apropos-named
Dream Downtown hotel in
New York. Lamar revealed
one of his own dream jobs is to
be a psychologist: “Always know
the value of yourself and your
potential,” he mused. “There are
so many things going on around
you that you get distracted in
your own fulfillment and learning who you are. That’s a process.
I don’t know when I’ll actually
grasp it, but I’m sparking the idea
right now.”
INSIDER
ON DEADLINE × Top Stories
Include this important stop in your annual travel itinerary
Brands Capitalize
On Custom Craze
BY JESSICA KAPLAN
GDS 2015 Global Destination for Shoes & Accessories
FEBRUARY 4–6, 2015 // DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY
With its new concept, GDS has established itself worldwide as a platform
for trends and new developments. Thereby, the “Global Destination for
Shoes and Accessories” clearly stands for international orientation — and
brings the industry’s top customers to Düsseldorf.
CONTACT:
Messe Düsseldorf North America
Phone: (312) 781-5180
[email protected]
www.gds-online.com
www.tag-it-show.com
NEW YORK — Shoe customization is gaining traction at a rapid
speed.
Notable sneaker brands such
as Nike and New Balance have
championed the practice for
years, and luxury labels such as
Stuart Weitzman and Bionda Castana are applying their own spins.
Companies such as e-tailer Shoes
of Prey have even made customization a primary focus — and it’s
paying off.
Just last month, the firm partnered with Nordstrom on a brickand-mortar “Design Your Own
Shoes” studio, opening first at the
retailer’s Bellevue Square location
in Bellevue, Wash. Nordstrom
plans to debut additional concept
studios by first-quarter 2015.
Shoes of Prey also recently
teamed with costume designer
Janie Bryant, of “Mad Men” fame,
on a capsule collection. “It’s amazing to be able to get a customized
shoe. It’s a different mindset,”
Bryant noted.
Larger companies are also
getting in on the action. Stuart
Weitzman has worked with key
retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus on
customizing the brand’s popular
50/50 boot. “It’s not just revenue
that is important, but the connection to all of those customers
who have different kinds of taste
levels,” CEO Wayne Kulkin said.
For fall ’14, the label also
partnered with select locations
of Lane Crawford. On top of that,
it teamed with jewelry brand
Erickson Beamon, Chinese
women’s wear line Huishan
Zhang and urban brand KTZ on
special 50/50 looks.
Bionda Castana, co-founded
by Natalia Barbieri and Jennifer
Portman, also now offers shoe
customization, putting the proper
infrastructure in place for executing such requests this past Octo-
ber. All orders are turned around
within a three-to-four-week time
frame, with design sessions held
at the house’s London studios or
over Skype for global clients.
“The luxury customer appreciates the craft and exclusivity,”
Barbieri said. “Everybody wants
something unique, something
they had a part in creating.”
The men’s custom market is
also evolving.
Left Shoe Company’s chairman,
Gordon Clune, is using his former
Left Shoe
fitting machine
experience as an aerospace
engineer to bring the Scandinavian brand’s specialization in foot
measurment to the next level.
Inside one of the brand’s brickand-mortar stores, customers put
on a specialized sock, then step
onto a platform with a built-in
rotating camera. Using 3-D photocapturing technology, the system
efficiently measures both the left
and right feet.
Left Shoe operates overseas
locations, as well as a flagship
store in Los Angeles and a recent
pop-up shop in midtown New
York City. Prices range from $395
to $3,500, with styles including
oxfords, derbies, loafers and boots.
Moving forward, expansion
is a key focus. Clune acquired
the company’s North American
licenses several years ago and is
making investments in Europe.
“I wouldn’t be surprised if
next year we end up in two or
three different locations, [with
partners] in New York,” Clune
added, saying that he is also on
the hunt for a flagship location
in the city.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF LEFT SHOE COMPANY
MARK YOUR CALENDAR:
INSIDER
Top Stories × ON DEADLINE
BBC Makes Curing Clubfoot Big Priority
PHOTO: COURTESY OF PONSETI
BY KATIE ABEL
NEW YORK — BBC International
is debuting a major initiative to improve the lives of children impacted
by clubfoot, the most common
deformity among newborns.
The company has teamed up with
the University of Iowa, the Ponseti International Association and
Clubfoot Solutions to produce and
distribute a special device called the
Iowa Brace that’s critical to maintaining the effects of correctional
procedures. BBC also plans to donate
the first 30,000 braces it produces.
“We eat, sleep and breathe children’s footwear, and we are sold
all around the world,” said BBC
founder and CEO Bob Campbell.
“We have a responsibility to deliver
a product that helps these children
walk again and be able to wear
regular shoes.”
About 175,000 babies around the
world are born with clubfoot every
year — and approximately a million
children, most in developing countries, are walking around untreated.
Half of infants affected have the
birth defect in one foot, while the
other half show it in both; it is twice
as common in males as it is in females, according to UI research.
The BBC partnership was formed
after academics and clinicians at
UI saw the need for a high-quality,
affordable brace for children with
clubfoot, especially in low-resource
countries.
“We pooled our expertise to ...
identify the critical design features
needed in the shoe part of the
brace,” said Thomas Cook, director
of global operations for UI’s Ponseti
International Association. “Fortu-
nately, BBC stepped
up to translate our
design concept into a
real device.”
BBC is now providing its global resources to manufacture
and deliver the brace,
which is an important final step in
clubfoot treatment.
Doctors start the
correction process
by using the Ponseti
Method, which employs gentle manipulations to gradually realign the bones of the foot.
Plaster casts are then applied and
changed out weekly. After a series
of four to six casts over four to six
weeks, the deformed foot is expected to look and function as normal.
It’s critical to continue treatment
even after this
point, and that’s
where the brace
comes in. A child
must sleep in the
product until the
age of four to prevent the deformity
from recurring.
Sample product
was sent out this
summer. Now, deliveries are underway to distribution
sites in countries
including Nigeria, Pakistan, Brazil,
Mexico, Venezuela, Indonesia, Jordan and the U.S.
“The more we studied this, the
more we realized we can make a
real difference,” said Don Wilborn,
president and CFO of BBC. “We
want to change lives.”
A Nigerian
child wears
a brace
January 11.12.13 2015
Pier 94, NYC
12th Avenue @ 55th Street
9am - 6pm Sunday & Monday . 9am - 5pm Tuesday
A Trade Event Featuring Clothing, Accessories, Footwear
and Gifts for Newborns to Age 12.
MAKE IT YOUR FIRST
FOOTWEAR DESTINATION
Steve Madden Kids Yosi Samra Dr.Martens Primigi Italy
Elephantito Joyfolie Shoes Native Shoes Bogs
Angels New York US, Inc. Anais & I Naturino Florsheim Kids
Umi Children’s Shoes Old Soles Morgan & Milo Moschino
Anasai,The Little Goods Company USA Falcotto
Amiana/A-Line ShowaFlops Tip Top Kids Pediped Footwear
W6YZ Penelope Wildberry Geox USA Bloch
For a complete show roster please visit:
www.enkshows.com/childrensclub
[email protected]
@ childrensclub
/childrens.club
INSIDER
ON DEADLINE × Trade Shows
Pitti Uomo
GDS
The International List
A look at the overseas event calendar for the first half of 2015.
Capsule (Men’s)
ExpoRivaSchuh
JAN. 23-25
Cité de la Mode
Paris
JAN. 10-13
Riva del Garda Exhibition Complex
Riva del Garda, Italy
Couromoda
JAN. 11-14
Expo Centre Norte
São Paolo
Pitti Uomo
JAN. 13-16
Fortezza da Basso
Florence, Italy
MosShoes
JAN. 19-22
Crocus Expo
Moscow
Tranoi Homme
JAN. 22-24
Palais de la Bourse
Paris
Pitti Bimbo
JAN. 22-24
Fortezza da Basso
Florence, Italy
8|
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
Première Classe
JAN. 23-26/MARCH 6-9
Porte de Versailles/Jardin des Tuileries
Paris
FEBRUARY
Première Vision/Indigo/
Modamont
The Micam
FEB. 10-12
Paris Nord Villepinte
Paris
Le Cuir a Paris
FEB. 10-12
Paris Nord Villepinte
Paris
The Micam
The Micam Shanghai
FEB. 15-18
Fiera Milano Rho
Milan
MARCH 11-13
Shanghai Exhibition Center
Shanghai
Lineapelle
Sapica
FEB. 25-27
Fiera Milano Rho
Milan
MARCH 17-20
Poliforum, León
León, Mexico
MARCH
Fashion Access/APLF/MM&T
ISPO
Capsule (Women’s)
FEB. 5-8
Messe München Trade Fair Centre
Munich
MARCH 6-8
Tapis Rouge
Paris
MARCH 30-APRIL 1
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center
Hong Kong
Modacalzado
MosShoes
Pitti Uomo
FEB. 8-10
Feria de Madrid
Madrid
MARCH 10-13
Crocus Expo
Moscow
JUNE 16-19
Fortezza da Basso
Florence, Italy
India International Leather
Fair
FEB. 1-3
Chennai Trade Center
Chennai, India
GDS / GLS
FEB. 4-6
Düsseldorf Fairgrounds
Düsseldorf, Germany
JUNE
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TRADE SHOWS
JANUARY
BY NIKARA JOHNS
THE
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YEAR IN REVIEW
2014
LUXE
HARRODS SHOE HEAVEN
FOOTBED
SINGLE
SOLE
GLADIATOR
PIGALLE
SLINGBACK
STUART WEITZMAN
BOOTIE
ADIDAS NORTH AMERICA
NIKE
CHISEL TOE
SHOOTIE
LANA
CORK
PIGALLE
HIGH-TOP
FOOTBED KILTIE PYTHON BLUSH
PORT CONGESTION
PYTHON
FLIP-FLOP
GEORGE
SLIP-ON SNEAKERS
PYTHON NUDIST
MALKEMUS
SMOKING SLIPPER LUG SOLE PYTHON FOOTBED
MULESSKECHERS
SARAH JESSICA PARKER
ALIBABA JACK MA FOOT LOCKER
LUXE
SMITH
PORT CONGESTION
BLUSH
HARRODS SHOE HEAVEN PAUL ANDREW
MONK STRAP
BLOCK KICKS
LOCK A FOOTBED
HEEL TECHNO TWEED
WHITE COURT MONK STRAP SMOKING SLIPPER BOOTIE ATHLEISURE
DIGITAL
LACK OF FASHION TRENDS
SMOKING SLIPPER
LOW-TOP
RETRO RUNNERS OMNICHANNEL
E-TAILER E-COMMERCE
PIERRE DENIS
FOOTBED
FOOT LOCKER
LACK OF FASHION TRENDS
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
SLIP-ON
SEXY THING
EPIC YEAR
The ultimate wins and
faux pas in this
shoe-down chart
BRAND AMBASSADOR
COLLAB
HARRODS SHOE HEAVEN
GISELE
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD JIMMY CHOO GEORGE MALKEMUS
MANOLO BLAHNIK
BÜNDCHEN
FLIP-FLOP
PYTHON
R
The players
who dominated the
footwear industry
NIKE
MULES
ALIBABA
BLUSH
LUG DIGITAL
ADIDAS
SHOOTIE HIGH-TOP
NIKE
SOLE KILTIE
ROBERT GREENBERG
etailers may still blame a lack of fashion trends for faltering shoe sales, but there was certainly enough footwear
news trending in 2014 to keep insiders and fans talking.
Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist popped up on celebs left and right,
while the Adidas Stan Smith commanded as much attention
this year as any tall heel, if not more.
On the business side, Steve Madden was buying up shoe
FAB FACES
STAN
SOLE
SNEAKERHEAD SLINGBACK BOOTIE
SNEAKERHEAD SLINGBACK BOOTIE
ROBERT GREENBERG
RETRO
A FOOTBED
WHITE COURT MONK STRAP SMOKING SLIPPER BOOTIE ATHLEISURE HIGH-TOP
PAUL ANDREW STUART WEITZMAN
BLADE
NUDIST
WATER SNAKE HARRODS SHOE HEAVEN
STEVE MADDEN NORMCORE
FLATFORM
ADIDAS
PORT CONGESTION
NORDSTROM
ZAPPOS.COM
HIGH-TOP
CRISSCROSS
ZENADIA
ATHLEISURE
NUDIST
HIGH-TOP
MENSWEAR
LANA
brands left and right, Blake Mycoskie found a worthy partner
for Toms in Bain Capital, and Pierre Denis of Jimmy Choo and
Alibaba’s Jack Ma battled it out for most memorable IPO of
the year.
But the headlines weren’t all about successes, with a number
of wince-worthy stumbles to ruminate on as well.
Read on for our full retrospective of 2014.
SHOE STARS
FN picks 10 celebs who
donned the best shoes for
completing their style
BORN STUNNAS
Media moments had the
gossipers gabbing and
the groupies gawking
FUTURE PERFECT
Brands raised their tech IQ
with futuristic shoes and
smart stores
DECEMBER 22, 2014 |
| 11
YEAR IN REVIEW
2014’s
Most Buzzy
Personalities
They turned heads with record-setting IPOs, cool
product and memorable ads. BY JENNIE BELL
1. Kevin Plank
The hard-charging founder of Under Armour
took an adrenaline-spiked approach to
business this year, and it paid off. The CEO
led the firm through an Olympic speedskating kerfuffle, pushed footwear to the
top of its to-do list and shook up the brand
image to recognize the other 50 percent of
the planet.
2. Sarah Jessica Parker
Paul Andrew
Because of her, the world now knows Choo,
Manolo and Louboutin simply by one name.
Can she do the same for her SJP Collection?
Judging by the energy and enthusiasm she’s
shown so far, it could be a safe bet.
3. Pierre Denis
There are some in the world (we can’t
believe it either) who still think Tamara Mellon leads Jimmy Choo — or even that Jimmy
Choo leads Jimmy Choo. Thanks to the
company’s IPO filing this fall, that misnomer
is on the mend. The previously understated
Denis stepped out in a very public way to
help define the company’s mission and
shepherd it toward becoming a global powerhouse.
4. Paul Andrew
Marigay McKee
Robert Greenberg
Jack Ma
This time last year, Paul
was riding the wave after
his FN Launch of the Year
award. Then things got
even better. The polished
Brit nabbed the top
prize at the CFDA/Vogue
Fashion Fund this fall and
cemented his status as a verified player in
the market. Need proof? Celebrities such as
Elizabeth Banks and Lupita Nyong’o have
become loyal fans, and Andrew is debuting
a pop-up in early 2015 in old boss Donna
Karan’s London flagship.
5. Mark Parker
The strong just keep getting stronger. In
spite of the fact that rival Adidas sponsored
the World Cup, Parker’s firm was the one
that dominated in athletic sales this year.
6. Robert Greenberg
The leader of Skechers USA Inc. has become
a master of timing, whether it’s anticipating
hot trends or predicting the news cycle. And
in 2014, more than ever before, his footwear
company seemed to be a step ahead of everyone — except maybe California Chrome.
Even though he didn’t win, that horse is still
pretty fast.
7. Jack Ma
$25 billion. That was the number that
shocked the world, when Ma’s company,
Alibaba, made history with the biggest
IPO ever. One other number to know: $16.6
billion, Ma’s estimated net worth post-IPO,
making him the richest man in China.
8. Gisele Bündchen
She just might be the hardest-working
model in fashion these days (and she’s
definitely the highest-paid, according to
Forbes). In addition to her gigs with H&M
and Chanel, Bündchen made a big impact
in the footwear world this year. She got
Pierre Denis
Diane Sullivan
tongues wagging (and panting) in
Stuart Weitzman’s latest ad campaign, and she helped Under Armour
sell its “I Will What I Want” message
to women.
Mark Parker
9. Diane Sullivan
Sullivan — Brown Shoe Co.’s chairman, president and CEO — gave the
firm a power boost, leading growth
across its wholesale and retail channels. Notable brand movements
included the addition of men’s
footwear to Vince, as well as backing
Jack Erwin, a men’s-shoe startup.
10. Blake Mycoskie
Late last year, Mycoskie returned to
the task of running Toms. The results
have been dramatic, what with new
product lines (coffee and handbags),
its first stores (opening soon in a city
near you) and the sale of half of the
business to Bain Capital. To top it off, Blake Mycoskie
Mycoskie plans to donate a chunk of
his own proceeds to do even more good in
the world.
11. Marigay McKee
Saks Fifth Avenue’s big moves this
year under President McKee included
plans for a $200 million renovation of
its midtown New York mecca
and leasing space downtown
for a store at Brookfield
Place, formerly known
as the World FinanGisele Bündchen
cial Center.
PHOTOS: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES
Sarah Jessica Parker
Kevin Plank
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DATABASE ANALYTICS
YEAR IN REVIEW
X
Nudist, Naturally
Stuart Weitzman hands-down rocked the red
carpet this year, thanks to his universally beloved
heel. More than 75,000 pairs of the sandal have
sold since first hitting retail last December.
Mackle-Less
This rapper may want to stick to the thrift shop
for his kicks. Macklemore took a hit online when
his “Northwest King Salmon” Jordan Melo M10
launched in April, with USA Today questioning
whether they were the “ugliest Jordans ever.”
Will Wins Out
Female empowerment got a boost from Under Armour’s “I Will What I Want” ad campaign. Celebrating athletes like ballerina Misty Copeland and Gisele
Bündchen helped the firm break new ground with
women, previously its hardest-to-engage audience.
Retrograde Feminism
Nine West opted for marketing themes like “Starter
Husband Hunting” and “Anticipatory Walk of Shame.”
@HannahMajella tweeted it best: “How about promotion snaring shoes? Merger clinching shoes? Too
busy serving hubby and raising baby I guess!”
Upper Hand
The Ultimate Fighting Championship hammered
out a deal to make Reebok the exclusive outfitter for the mixed martial arts organization; it’s
expected to give the athletic label a leg up in the
“tough-fitness” business.
Own Goal
At first, Adidas seemed poised for advertising victory,
dominating the social media conversation and captivating audiences with its World Cup campaigns. But
then the soccer hype died down, and Adidas found
itself lacking the sales to match its ad spend.
Good Morning, Vietnam
Vietnam has been steadily making its name as a
footwear supplier that could possibly supplant
China. This year, exports in the first half of 2014
increased 21.9 percent compared with the same
year-ago period.
Trapped at Sea
Ships carrying stock into the U.S. are stalling at
West Coast ports due to massive congestion, raising concerns for retailers fulfilling high demand.
Relief isn’t due anytime soon: Easement plans
likely won’t go into effect until well into next year.
Lock Smith
The Adidas Stan Smith got its second wind this
year. The iconic sneaker broke all boundaries of
shoe styling, appearing alongside skirts, formalwear and even, as with Gisele Bündchen for a
fashion shoot with the shoe, nothing.
Crocodile Tears
Crocs has had it tough, with its sales results floundering year after year. Despite a generally lauded
recovery plan it announced in July, earnings
flagged again for Q3. That said, new CEO Gregg
Ribatt is expected to turn things around.
Underdog Rising
While Under Armour’s bid to endorse Kevin Durant
ended up falling through, the move to challenge
Nike is a sign that UA is one step closer to achieving
its dream of surpassing the athletic giant. Above
all, the move created wild buzz around the label.
Strike Outs
Nike kept Durant, but the media didn’t seem to care. It’s
been a bad year overall in sponsorships for the Swoosh,
which dropped NFL runningbacks Ray Rice and Adrian
Peterson, both under fire for domestic abuse, and UFC
fighter Jon Jones for brawling in public.
Epic Wins & Epic Fails
For the hits and misses of footwear in 2014, look no further than this cheat sheet.
14 |
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
BY IRENE PARK
PHOTOS: JORDAN MELO M10: MACKLEMORE’S INSTAGRAM; NINE WEST: NINEWEST.COM; UFC: REEBOK.COM; UNDER ARMOUR, STAN SMITH, CROCS: COURTESY OF BRAND; ALL OTHERS: FAIRCHILD ARCHIVES
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THE LATEST STYLES AND HOTTEST TRENDS: A PRODUCT SHOWCASE FROM FN’S PARTNERS
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YEAR IN REVIEW
BEST DRESSED
They stood out from top to well-shoed toe. Here, 10 boldface
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Olivia Palermo in Aquazzura.
The social star collaborated
with designer Edgardo Osorio
on a capsule line, including
this chandelier heel.
16 |
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
Actress Naomi Harris in Bionda
Castana’s Lana pump.
The strappy mesh look has
helped make the London label
a must for celebrity stylists.
Alexa Chung in Chanel’s
ankle-strap flat mule from
the Paris-Dubai collection.
The slipper channels a Middle
Eastern vibe and is in-step with
Chung’s gamine look.
Lifestyle guru Gwyneth
Paltrow in Paul Andrew’s
Tempest laced sandals.
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion
Fund-winning designer
has quickly gone from
unknown to de rigeur
on the red carpet.
Kerry Washington in
Christian Louboutin’s
Justinodo PVC peep-toe
pumps with gold bow.
The “Scandal” actress often
wears the highest, most unique
Louboutin styles.
STARS OF 2014
Fashion Editor: Mosha Lundström Halbert
Assistant Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire
names who consistently logged inspired shoe moments.
Harry Styles in Saint Laurent’s
Wyatt boot. The One Direction
member sticks with what works,
which this year was a variety of
dandyish Hedi Slimane-designed
stacked-heel ankle boots.
Pharrell Williams in custompainted Adidas Stan Smiths
for Colette. The hitmaker
had a huge year according to
both the music charts and his
feverishly covered collabs.
Jared Leto in Louis
Leeman’s crystal smoking
slippers. Men who stray from
the staid should be applauded,
and in his always-eye-catching
footwear (and socks), the
actor is no exception.
Benedict Cumberbatch in Ralph
Lauren, because few men know
what white tie even means and
how to pull if off impeccably.
The English actor has a keen
command for formal attire.
Ansel Elgort in Alejandro Ingelmo’s
Jeddi Metamorph foiled leather
high-tops. “The Fault in Our Stars”
lead likes to be experimental in his
developing style and is drawn to unique
pieces from lesser-known labels.
DECEMBER 22, 2014 |
| 17
YEAR IN REVIEW
Movie
Moments
Performer’s
Corner
Miley Cyrus gets springy
in Marc by Marc Jacobs’
amped-up kicks while
on tour
Angelina Jolie in Christian Louboutin’s
“Maleficent”-inspired heels. Below,
United Nude x Zaha Hadid’s Nova,
worn by Effie in “The Hunger Games”
Ariana Grande
dazzles at the VMAs
in custom boots g
Shoe
Shockers
Feisty
Footwear
Rita Ora
wraps
it up in
Casadei
at the
Met Gala
V.S. Angels
Gone Wild
This year’s most gasp-inducing footwear
moments, from the big screen to the runways.
Runway
Realness
Victoria Beckham
brings back the
clunky, high-rise
platform
From the beach to
the runway, Chanel
offers a couture
version of the
flip-flop
Prada takes the
mandal one
step further with
chunky rubber
accents
Jeremy Scott
beheads teddy
bears in the name
of slide sandals
Solange Knowles steps out in
Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist, moments after her now-famous
showdown with Jay-Z in a New
York hotel elevator
18 |
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
Solange Knowles steps out in the Stuart
Weitzman Nudist, moments after attacking Jay-Z in an elevator (a now-famed
video).
Nicholas
Kirkwood’s
golden
gladiators
PHOTOS: UNITED NUDE: COURTESY OF BRAND; FOUR RUNWAY SHOTS: GIOVANNI GIANNONI; ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES
Sophia
Webster’s
cheetah
print
laceups
YEAR IN REVIEW
Web Magic
To celebrate the launch
of our brand-new site,
we look back at our top
content for the year.
1. “Spring ’15 Fashion Week: Shoe Files”
FN summed up the top shoes showing on the
ready-to-wear runways, from New York to Paris.
The 108 looks spotlighted included picks from
Louis Vuitton, Chloé and Roksanda Ilincic.
2. “#FNSneakerTakeover”
In November, we recruited 33 sneakerheads
from all over New York to show off their
individual style and some of the hottest
high-fashion sneakers.
3. “SJP Shoe Line: More Looks Revealed”
A month in advance of the “Sex and the City”
star’s brand launch, we gave readers a sneak
preview of eight heels and three handbags due
to be sold through Nordstrom.
4. “Top 10 Shoes at the Grammy Awards”
There’s no better way to celebrate music
than in snazzy shoes to dance in. Stars
including Rihanna, Taylor Swift, Daft Punk
and even Macklemore made our
January 2014 ranking.
5. “Trending: Stuart Weitzman Nudist Heels”
Just in case you didn’t know the Nudist was
hot, FN rounded up some of the most
memorable red-carpet outings in the sandals
by celebrities like Olivia Wilde,
Diane Kruger and Jennifer Lawrence.
6. “Cameron Diaz’s Big Reveal”
Pour La Victoire basked in the limelight when it
announced that Cameron Diaz would come on
board as artistic director of the brand’s parent
company, PLV Studio. Readers flocked to catch a
glimpse of her fall ’14 collection.
For more digital content,
visit our new website at Footwearnews.com.
DECEMBER 22, 2014 |
| 19
YEAR IN REVIEW
SS
Stan Smith
“The man behind our
#FNAA shoe of the year:
Mr. Stan Smith @adidas”
SS
Manolo Blahnik
“Manolo’s choice: one of
the designer’s favorite creations from his spring ’15
@manoloblahnikhq
collection.
#manoloblahnik”
SS
Sarah Jessica Parker
“‘I wanted to produce
shoes that I authentically
wanted to wear.’ #FNAA
launch of the year winner
@sarahjessicaparker in
today’s issue. ”
SS
Rupert Sanderson
“A leafy touch at
@rupertsanderson’s
#prefall15 collection.”
SS
2
1
3
Rachel Zoe
“Take it from @rachelzoe — flat fashion is sticking
around for spring ’15.”
4
FN’s Top
Instagram
Snapshots
Why read about it when you can just see for
yourself? Here, the most-liked posts of the year
from FN’s account.
For more Instagram snaps, check us out @footwearnews.
20 |
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
5
YEAR IN REVIEW
HOT COLLABS
Kicks Start
There’s nothing like novelty to motivate new movements in style.
Here are some of the notable names to launch footwear this
year and captivate consumers along the way.
BY KRISTEN HENNING
NEW BRANDS
Alexander Wang x H&M
Wang was working on
his fitness. The designer crafted a sportinspired and lowerpriced line, and
the collaboration
nearly sold out.
Steve Madden x Peace Love Shea
It was a blogger moment
for Madden.
The footwear
giant teamed
up with
Californiabased blogger Shea Marie, aka Peace
Love Shea, to launch both laid-back
and edgy looks.
Nike x Riccardo Tisci, A.P.C.
SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker
The wait is over. The “Sex and the City” star’s shoe line hit
big, thanks to a smart partnership with George Malkemus
and Nordstrom. Of course, one style is named Carrie.
Prabal Gurung
After five years in business, the designer is dressing
women from head to toe. His spring ’15 footwear line
debuted on the New York runways this fall.
Anything Nike touches turns to gold.
Add in Riccardo
Tisci, creative director at Givenchy,
and Parisian Label
A.P.C., and it really
shines. Tisci crafted
a multicolor Air
Force 1, while A.P.C.
produced three styles of Free, the
brand’s most popular running shoe.
Adidas x Pharrell,
Raf Simons and Mary Katrantzou
Robert Graham
Designer Robert Stock welcomed a men’s collection
this year, with LJP International. Think ankle boots
and even a snakeskin tassel loafer.
Gx by Gwen Stefani
The songstress recommitted to shoes with Gx, a moreaffordable alternative to her L.A.M.B. footwear line. The
pumps and booties feature bold colors and shapes.
It was a collab
blowout at
Adidas this year.
The Stan Smith got new spins
from Pharrell and Raf Simons,
while Katrantzou added bright
colors and digital prints to
unisex footwear.
Nicholas Kirkwood x Suno
Daniele Michetti
Welcome to the men’s category. The designer debuted
his spring ’15 line, all made in Italy. But he made sure
the looks weren’t too “trend-driven.”
Malone Souliers
The London-based brand — led by Creative Director
Mary Alice Malone and Managing Director Roy Luwolt
— landed stateside at Bergdorf Goodman in August.
British designer Nicholas
Kirkwood has an “Empire State of
Mind.” He crafted leather sandals
for New York Fashion Week, which
paraded down the Suno runway.
DECEMBER 22, 2014 |
| 21
YEAR IN REVIEW
Tech Tonic
United Nude
Float Heel
Here’s a refresher on the industry’s most tech-forward shoes
and retail stores, plus the best apps for browsing footwear,
according to shopping preference. BY MARGARET SUTHERLIN
ADVANCED STEPS
Fast Rewind
Remember the self-lacing
high-top Nike Air Mags in
“Back to the Future II”? They’re
one step closer to becoming
yours. Powerlace debuted
its auto-lacing product on
Kickstarter.com in November
and will continue raising funds
through January. Not to be
outdone, Nike announced that
it will debut power laces in
2015. Your move, Marty.
Almost Alive
London-based designer
Shamees Aden may be 40
years from animating her
Amoeba shoe, but her concept
announcement earlier this
year still stirred buzz. Using
synthetics that act like living
cells, the shoe is designed to
actively adapt to the wearer’s
feet as well as changes in the
environment they are being
used in.
United Nude’s
in-store 3-D
printer in action
Press Run
Footwear creators are
getting a kick out of using
3-D printers to push the
boundaries of shoe shapes.
Nike introduced its 3-D
printed Vapor Hyper Agility
Cleat for the Super Bowl, and
United Nude offered in-store
printing of its Float heel in
the New York flagship.
Nike 3-D
printed
Vapor Hyper
Agility Cleat
Lechal Footwear
Have a bad sense of direction? Leave your phone behind and let your shoes be your navigator.
Lechal Footwear from Hyderabad, India-based Ducere Technologies uses vibrations to help
guide wearers to their desired destination.
APP HAPPY
For the social
media shopper:
For the
Pinterest addict:
Wanelo
Keep
For the Instagram
& fashion blog
enthusiast:
Spring
For moms
on a budget:
Famous Footwear
For athletes:
The Finish
Line
For the need-itfirst Nordstrom
loyalist:
Nordstrom Next
For the fitness
fashion junkie:
Under Armour
Women
PHOTOS: REBECCA MINKOFF: STEVE EICHNER; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
Buzz Bearings
YEAR IN REVIEW
STATE OF THE SHOP
Ugg
Say what you want about the
ubiquitous shearling boot that
appears winter after winter, but
in-store, Ugg is trying out some
cool things. That includes interactive screens that give users
easy access to the brand’s entire
catalogue plus customization
options, as well as RFID tags that
curate store content depending on
customer preferences.
Rebecca Minkoff
The designer was among pioneers in
wearable technology, so no surprise
when her first U.S. store launched
chock full of fashion tech. The Soho
flagship, opened in partnership with
EBay, features smart fitting rooms
with interactive glass mirrors that
offer styling suggestions for selected
items and access to online shopping, plus the ability to save product
picks to the mobile app.
Burberry
Nordstrom
The Brit brand had some highNordstrom has always been a
profile openings this year in
tech-shopping leader with winBeverly Hills, Calif., and Shanghai, ning partnerships and a forwarddebuting RFID tags and lightthinking approach to e-commerce.
responsive walls. The company
In 2014 alone, it announced a
also made headlines for investing
partnership with shopping app
in enterprise resource planning
Wanelo, introduced smart
solutions, which it used to build an mirrors to fitting rooms, launched
efficiency program to improve its the Nordstrom Rack website and
supply chain and logistics.
app, and debuted a customization
studio for Shoes of Prey footwear.
FOOTWEAR NEWS 2014 EDITORIAL CALENDAR
ISSUE DATE
SPACE CLOSE
EDITORIAL FEATURE
JANUARY
1/5
12/23
Flip Flop
1/12
12/30
1/19
1/8
1/26
1/15
Distribution: Surf Expo
Trade Show Planner, Western
Distribution: Denver/WESA Show
Outdoor Retailer Show Issue
Distribution: Outdoor Retailer, Project Sole New York
FFaNY Pre-Show Issue
Distribution: FFaNY
FEBRUARY
2/2
1/22
2/9
1/28
FFaNY Show Issue
Distribution: FFaNY
FN PLATFORM Pre-Show Issue
theMICAM Show Issue
Distribution: FN PLATFORM, The Atlanta Shoe Market, theMICAM Show
2/16
2/4
FN PLATFORM Show Issue
Distribution: FN PLATFORM, WWDMAGIC, PROJECT LV
2/23
2/12
FN PLATFORM Show Wrap-Up, Kids
Distribution: Children’s Great Event Shoe Show, Sole Commerce,
Shoe Market of America, Children’s Club of NY
Footwear News is the premier destination for the
footwear industry’s classified and career listings.
800.423.3314
OR FAX 212.779.7248
DEADLINE: 2PM (ET) WEDNESDAY PRIOR TO
DATE OF PUBLICATION
YEAR IN REVIEW
Heaven
Sent
PHOTO: TIM JENKINS
The top retail moment of
2014 goes to Harrods Shoe
Heaven, hands down. The
space underwent major
expansion this year, bringing
its total shoe count to 100,000
pairs and 55 brands. To
celebrate, the department
store and footwear partner
Kurt Geiger threw a London
Fashion Week fête in
September that drew top
designers, including
Charlotte Olympia Dellal
and Mark Ronson.
On the Cover: Designed by KENNETH HARNEY
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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24 |
| DECEMBER 22, 2014
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MARCH
FE B R UA RY
JA N UA RY
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