Made for SucceSS The story behind luxury children’s fashion boutique Melijoe.com WinTer WalkerS

cHildrenSWear
BuYer:
MarcH/aPril 2013
iSSue 81
cwb-online.co.uk
£8.50
Made for SucceSS
The story behind luxury children’s
fashion boutique Melijoe.com
WinTer WalkerS
key looks for a/w 13 as seen at
Moda footwear
Talking PoinT
roksanda ilincic on her
childrenswear collection Blossom
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cwb-online.co.uk
March/April 2013
March/April 2013
cwb-online.co.uk
News:
For s/s 14, men’s and women’s fashion brand
Dsquared2 is launching a junior line for newborn to
14 years.
From April, the Little Darlings christening range
will be produced in England, a development
introduced by the brand’s new owner, Adrian
Wilkinson, MD of Michelle De Leon (MdeL).
JuJu Footwear Launches
ProJect JeLLy
Jelly shoe brand Juju Footwear has created a
range of limited-edition children’s jellies to help
raise awareness for Mencap, the UK’s leading
learning disability charity.
Aiming to repackage charity in an innovative way,
Project Jelly sees the brand donating 25 per cent
of profits from the limited-edition range directly
to Mencap.
“This is a very exciting development after
importing textiles on a worldwide basis for over
25 years,” says Wilkinson. “It’s good to be at the
forefront of the resurgence of UK textile
manufacturing.”
Two limited-edition styles are available – glittery
pink and a unisex red with neon lime sole – both
in sizes four to 10 junior.
morrisons enters kiDswear
market
This month sees supermarket giant Morrisons
launch its first own-brand clothing range in the
form of a value childrenswear line that will be
available across 100 of its stores.
Nutmeg, which offers items such as toddlers’
T-shirts for £2 and jeans for £5, provides
garments designed with comfort and ease in
mind, with highlights including itch-proof collars,
expandable waistbands and chunky zips.
“We are delighted that Nutmeg is now here, and
hope our customers love the collection as much as
we have enjoyed creating it,” says Tim Bettley,
director of clothing at Morrisons. “The team
behind Nutmeg is really proud of the range and
confident it brings something different to the
world of supermarket fashion with thoughtful
details that will delight our shoppers.”
new chewaBLe
DriBBLe BiB
new Luxury
knitwear BranD
Crowns & Coronets is a new luxury British clothing
label for children aged newborn to six years,
offering handcrafted, ethical knitwear produced
from Himalayan yak down and sustainable bamboo
to create timeless knitwear pieces.
Signature looks include sailor collars, stripes and
sporting influences from the 20s, glamorous
boleros and dresses from the 30s, and the more
masculine, structured lines and jackets of the 40s.
“Every detail in the making of Crowns & Coronets’
garments embraces British skill and meticulous
craftsmanship, from the hand-embossed mother
of pearl buttons to hand-stitched swing tags,” says
designer and founder Helena Hubbard.
Project Jelly’s Jujus are available for wholesale
delivery from April, with independent stockists
already on board including Gently Elephant, Cissy
Wears, Olive Loves Alfie, Stella C, The Elves & The
Shoemaker and Klodhoppers.
Belle Enfants: winners of Best Independent
Children’s Footwear Retailer 2013
Showcasing over 280 collections encompassing
children’s fashion, accessories, interiors and
lifestyle products, including more than 90 new
brands, a/w 13 also marked the launch of Nest, a
new area dedicated the most exciting product
entering the UK market.
“Bubble London has come a long way since its
inception,” says event director Lindsay Hoyes.
“Now in its 11th edition, I am proud of how integral
a part of the industry the show has become, which
is reflected in not only the quality of UK and
overseas retailers it attracts, but also the variety of
exciting and innovative labels that take part.”
Bubble London s/s 14 will take place on 16-17
June 2013 at the Business Design Centre in
Islington, London.
This month, Cheeky Chompers is launching a new
dribble bib concept with an attached teether.
Footwear inDustry awarDs
For kiDs’ sector
Last month’s Footwear Industry Awards, which took
place on the first evening of national trade fair
Moda Footwear, saw cause for celebration for the
children’s sector.
The next edition of Moda Footwear for s/s 14 will
take place on 11-13 August at Birmingham’s NEC.
The collection will remain true to the brand’s DNA,
featuring irony and playfulness across the junior boy,
junior girl and baby range and will be distributed in
Dsquared2 flagship stores in Milan, Paris and Tokyo
as well as key department and speciality stores.
iconix BranD grouP acquires
Lee cooPer
Global fashion brand Lee Cooper has been
acquired by Iconix Brand Group for $72m.
Founded in 1908, the British denim label has
grown considerably to become a global business
with 40 partners selling in over 100 countries,
namely Europe, Asia and the Middle East. It has
over 500 Lee Cooper branded stores and, from a
consumer sales perspective, is expected to achieve
in excess of $700m in global retail sales by 2015.
“Our objective with Neckerchew is to create a
teething product that looks stylish and fashionable
but above all practical and that works,” says
Cheeky Chompers’ director, Amy Livingstone.
Plans are to expand into UK retail outlets before
distributing internationally.
John Lewis invests
£32m in reFurB
The biggest investment will be on the retailer’s
High Wycombe property with a £16m
redevelopment fund in place. Plans include
converting its 35,000 sq ft office space into a
selling area and the introduction of a full fashion,
nursery and childrenswear offer.
The flagship store on Oxford Street, along with High
Wycombe, Kingston and Nottingham, will benefit
from the fund later in the year. A further £25m
has been planned for other smaller investments
across the chain’s 39 stores before 2014.
Hosted at the Motorcycle Museum in Solihull, the
event saw brands and retailers gather to enjoy a
champagne reception, three course meal, live
entertainment and the awards ceremony.
Winners from the children’s footwear sector
included Start-rite, who was awarded Children’s
Footwear Brand of the Year; Belle Enfants was
awarded Children’s Independent Retailer of the
Year while Little Soles was bestowed the accolade
of New Independent Retailer of the Year.
For the next five years (2014-2018), ready-to-wear
and accessories will be produced under licence by
Brave Kid, which specialises in the manufacture
and distribution of children’s clothing and
accessories. The footwear licence will be given to
Andrea Montelpare, a leading firm in the industry
from Fermo, Italy.
Fully reversible, the Neckerchew is made from
jersey cotton with an absorbent middle layer with
the textured, triangle-shaped teether at the base
developed in a specialised silicone. The
UK-manufactured product will launch in nine
designs, each with its own patterned front, and
secures with a double popper fastener that is fully
adjustable and suitable for up to two years.
Department store retailer John Lewis is investing
£32m into extensive refurbishment across four of
its stores.
BuBBLe LonDon strengthens
roLe as uk’s nationaL show
Bubble London, the UK’s national children’s
fashion trade show, saw a year-on-year visitor
increase of three per cent for its a/w 13 edition.
Additionally, the exhibition achieved a 20 per cent
increase in overseas visitors, further strengthening
its position as a key buying destination on the
international fashion calendar.
07
DsquareD2 Launches
Junior Line
LittLe DarLings
comes home
Wilkinson, who also owns Little Darlings’ sister
brands Coco Collection and Abella, will have the
Little Darlings range produced from the company’s
group manufacturing facility in Ashbourne,
Derbyshire. The group manufacturing business,
Roger Silcock & Co, will increase manufacturing
capacity to cope with the extra demand.
■
news
in BrieF
LittLe Fashion gaLLery
Launches own LaBeL
Little Fashion Gallery, the online concept store for
children’s fashion, furniture, books and toys, has
launched an own-label collection for s/s 13. Sold
exclusively at littlefashiongallery.com, the label is
capitalising on the established and highly
regarded Little Fashion Gallery brand name.
“I have always seen Little Fashion Gallery as a label,
and when I launched the business six years ago I
treated it in the same way as launching a product
or brand,” says founder Marie-Soudrén Richard.
“The own-label range is the epitome of our values.”
Catering for three to 24 months and two to 10 years,
the brand focuses on colourful and easy-to-wear
pieces including T-shirts, trousers, dresses,
knitwear, coats, tops, nightwear and accessories.
– Children’s Fashion Cologne is
a new trade fair taking place on
11-13 July at Koelnmesse in
Germany, encompassing the baby,
children’s and maternity sectors,
together with footwear, interiors
and accessories. Labels such as
Roberto Cavalli Junior, I Pinco
Pallino, Silvian Heach, US Polo
Assn, Simonetta and Oilily are
participating. Taking place twice
a year, the event is positioning
itself as the central business
platform of the German and
international specialised trade.
new shaPe gB chiLDren’s
sizing rePort
Body shape analyst and supplier of technical fit
mannequins, Alvanon, and sizing research
company Select Research, have launched a Shape
GB Children’s Sizing report and series of
supporting technical fit mannequins.
The Shape GB report and fit forms, which are
based on the findings of the Shape GB children’s
size survey, are the result of a collaborative project
between Alvanon, Select Research, and six
childrenswear retailers; George at Asda, Monsoon,
Marks & Spencer, Next, Shop Direct Group and
Tesco. The result is a de-facto “working standard”
for sizing clothes for British children.
The new Shape GB report and fit form range is
available to any childrenswear supplier producing
garments for British children from four to 17 years.
– A poll carried out by
not-for-profit business support
group FPB has found most small UK
businesses feel the current
government has made the UK tax
system worse. Top of the list of
gripes is the rising business
rates, with 94 per cent of
respondents of the survey
reporting rates are too high. A
quarter of business owners also
felt the tax system had become
more complex, while 26 per cent
said the system was less efficient
under the government.
– The rising tide of online shopping
is radically altering the shape of
the high street and the way in which
consumers shop, according to a
report by retail research specialist
Conlumino. Key findings revealed 49
per cent of consumers have interacted
with a retailer through social
media. By 2020, mobile shopping will
play a part in a quarter of all
purchases, either through price
checking or directly. Additionally,
over a third of consumers are basing
their purchasing decisions on
customer reviews.
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March/April 2013
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March/April 2013
• TRENDS •
• TRENDS •
The look of
autumn/winter 2013
CWB selects its favourite looks from the a/w 13 collections showcased
at the leading UK and overseas shows.
Ruff & Huddle
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Graphics are always popular within childrenswear and this season was no different, with particular focus placed on hand-drawn designs
for a/w 13. Styles incorporating faces were key, alongside animal designs, which always prove a popular choice.
Corby Tindersticks
Dis Une Couleur
Ettel Bettel
More Stories
Indikidual
JACKET REQUIRED
Statement jackets featured heavily for a/w 13, ranging from contemporary cuts through to more classic, Chanel-inspired designs. The aim
is to stand out from the crowd, and this is achieved through all-over sequins, vivid block colour and detailing.
Luxe Des Anges
MiniMyo
Rock N Regal
Derhy Kids
Bulle de BB
GEEK CHIC
Directed primarily at boys, this look saw sci-fi themes such as space, stars, planets and robots combined with retro-inspired jackets,
cagoules, sweatshirts, knitwear and shirts. Colours were eye-catching and included bold shades of blue, green, orange and yellow.
Paul Smith
Dis Une Couleur
Tootsa MacGinty
4 Funky Flavours
MINI MONOCHROME
Artistic licence allows for unlimited use of colour in childrenswear, but that’s not to say monochrome doesn’t have its place, too. This season,
choose from bold black and white stripes, patterns and designs through to more subtle uses of the trend via detailing.
Lilly + Sid
Little Troll
4 Funky Flavours
MiniMyo
Young Versace
IN A SPORTY FASHION
A clean and fresh take on the sporty trend showed itself this a/w. Some retro-inspired styling was evident, including tracksuit, hooded and
cardigan tops. Colours were kept cool, centred around a fresh colour palette of blues and greens.
Marmalade & Mash
More Stories
4 Funky Flavours
Indikidual
Tootsa MacGinty
WILD CHILD
This trend provides an edgier look for childrenswear this season. Highlights included hints of glam rock through use of sparkle,
sequins and metallic yarns, the colour black, quirky detailing and a tougher take on girlswear.
Ruff & Huddle
Little Joule
Lilly + Sid
Boboli
Beau Loves
WINTER PASTELS
Winter doesn’t just have to mean dark, sombre colours and, this season, a number of collections included a colour palette
of cool pastel shades. Fresh hues of sage green, icy blue and dusty pink all featured to uplift a/w 13 outfits.
Gravel + Grass
La Queue Du Chat
Kite
Il Gufo
Belle Enfant
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March/April 2013
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March/April 2013
• REVIEW •
27
• REVIEW •
Cool kicks
CWB runs down the hottest footwear brands as spotted at the
a/w 13 edition of Bubble London.
venettini
olang
American footwear label Venettini showcased a collection
full of print and textures to make the winter selection stand
out from the crowd. Moccasins continued to be strong for
the brand, but jazz-style lace shoes gained ground with
loyal customers, with both styles featuring leopard pattern
designs. Other highlights for the season included loafers
in croc for boys and
high-shine patent
ballet pumps for girls.
Wholesale prices
range from $35
to $43.
The January edition of Bubble London was Olang’s first time at
the show, armed with a bijoux stand full of animation and the
brand’s signature snow boots. The a/w 13 collection was
inspired by adventure and fashion; quilting offered a classic
country look while neon colours provided personality. The boots
are fully insulated throughout, while sole flexibility and easy
access aims to make life easier for parents. Retail prices range
from £40 to £50.
mini melissa
lili shoes
Designer and founder Margot Verschoor created
LiLi Shoes three years ago, originally selling in the
Netherlands and Belgium. Bubble London was the
first step into the UK
market for the brand,
whose a/w 13 collection
is based on the
imagination of the child;
one day a princess,
another day a rocker.
Shoes are designed to be
both nostalgic and
on-trend with sizes
ranging from 17 to 34,
divided into baby and
junior lines. Key pieces
for a/w 13 are boots,
ballerinas and sneakers
in leather, sequins and
fake fur in tones of
camel, brown, fuchsia,
petrol and electric blue.
Wholesale prices range
from £16 to £40.
January’s edition of Bubble London represented a step up for jelly
shoe brand Melissa as a serious player in the children’s footwear
market. This was the first season the collection was big enough to
warrant its own stand, completely separate of the women’s line.
Bestsellers at the show included Minnie Mouse sandals, available in
six different colours
including black,
alongside cat character
designs (pictured) in
Melissa’s signature bright
colour palette. Other
highlights were tartan
bow peeptoes in red,
cream and black and
trainers with contrast
colour toe caps.
Wholesale prices range
from £14.40 to £24.
early days
Early Days’ brand new collection of
leather pram shoes launched at
Bubble London for a/w 13, receiving a
fantastic reaction from buyers. The
new collection is manufactured
entirely in the company’s Leicester
factory, as are its shoes, which have
been since 1952. Only the finest
quality Italian leather is used in
making the new designs, and
customers have the choice of receiving
footwear supplied in a luxury shoe box
with care card for a small extra charge.
Sizes come in UK 0-3, with wholesale
prices ranging from £11.50 to £16.50.
chipmunks footwear
Chipmunks Footwear’s a/w 13 collection consisted of fashionable faux
fur lined boots, party ballerinas and hi-tops for every occasion. All shoes
are designed in the UK, and for this season the brand introduced a
colour palette of delicate pastels and bold brights in a variety of leathers
and suedes. A selection of wide-fit shoes was also available to
accommodate young toes and feet, allowing them to grow naturally
without restrictions or pressures. Wholesale prices range from £6 to £15.
funky feet fashions
pippo
tinny shoes
The versatile a/w 13 range from Pippo was heavily influenced by the
design tastes and traditional shoe-making background of the brand’s
two founders, Rob and Jude Gallacher. Their aim is for the quality and
style of the product, which is not always trend-led, to shine through first
and foremost, with particular attention to good fit and reasonable prices.
Key looks this season include Velcro-fasten trainers in leather with thick
soles in winter tones of brown, purple and black. Wholesale prices
available on request.
Launched in the late 90s, Tinny Shoes has continued to expand its
range of footwear to include both classic and on-trend styles. For
a/w 13, it introduced a new range of boots for sizes 18-40.
Mary Jane styles continue to be a bestseller, as does the brand’s
loafers. Tinny Shoes also offers a large selection of pre-walkers
in a wide choice of designs. Wholesale prices available on request.
Every pair of Funky Feet Fashions’ soft
baby shoes will now arrive in a free
transparent gift bag. Launched at
Bubble London, the new packaging
allows retailers to display the shoes
with a clear 360º view. The bag can
be hung or stood up and has strong
branding and large, clear sizing swing
ticket. Also launched were 21 new
footwear designs including Whales,
Pin Wheels, Poodles and Sail Boats
and a new larger size of 5-7 years.
Wholesale prices from £9.
poco nido
UK brand Poco Nido
creates modern,
limited-edition footwear
based around simple
functional shapes,
vibrant graphic patterns,
colour and print.
Concentrating on the
functionality of the
product, the label favours
child-friendly pull-on
shapes over fussy
fastenings and quirky
illustrated scenes and
repeat patterned animals
to decorate. A/w 13 sees
the range expand to
include longer-leg
illustrated wellies and a
larger range of complementary garments, which
are mostly organic. Footwear wholesale prices
range from £8 to £12.50.
The next edition of Bubble London for spring/summer 2014 takes place on 16-17 June at the Business Design Centre, Islington.
For more autumn/winter 2013 Bubble London coverage visit cwb-online.co.uk
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