The Providence Journal Thursday,

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Thursday, June 12, 2014
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The Providence Journal
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_01 Color: C
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Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_02
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The Providence Journal
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4 Things You Need to Know
When Hiring a Roofer:
The Providence Journal
Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_03 Color: C
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FINANCING AVAILABLE
Cost-effective
fencing options
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_04
Found material: Repurposed
wood or metal can be crafted
into a rustic, one-of-a-kind
fence. Materials can be found
that are no cost, requiring only
the cost of labor. Should you
build it yourself, this can be next
to nothing. Sometimes existing
fences on another property can
be disassembled and re-built on
your own property for little to no
cost as well.
PROPERTIES
Thursday, June 12, 2014
The Providence Journal
Weichert, Realtors-Cress & CO.
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When choosing a fencing
material, consider that even a less
expensive material may prove
more expensive in the long run if
it needs significant maintenance
or has to be replaced in just a
few years. Therefore, the most
cost-effective fencing material
may not necessarily be the least
expensive one at the store. Here
are some materials homeowners
can consider.
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
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Fencing serves many purposes.
Some homeowners erect a
fence for privacy, while others
do so to contain pets and
children. Because fencing can be
expensive, some homeowners
look for ways to cut costs, which
can be relatively easy, especially
for those homeowners willing to
consider various materials when
erecting their fence.
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and this fence may be used as
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further keeping the cost down.
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Stockade fencing: A stockade
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and affordable privacy fence.
Stockade fencing can be stained
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panels of stockade fencing so that
you can make fence installation a
do-it-yourself project.
Vinyl fencing: Although vinyl
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Unlike some other materials,
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will have years upon years of
maintenance-free enjoyment.
There are many different fencing
materials that can coordinate with
a variety of budgets.
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PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
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Don’t fret, your garden can
survive awful weather
By Henry Homeyer
Special to The Journal
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_06 Color: C
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It seems as if the weather is getting more
extreme: tornadoes, floods, drought, heat waves,
cold spells. What’s a gardener to do? Well, stop
worrying, for starters. Each year the weather
is different - and most years we still have nice
flowers, and eventually have the lettuce and
tomato for a good sandwich. And unless you’re a
commercial farmer, your life and livelihood will
not be too adversely affected, even if the weather
is bad. There are a few steps we can take to help
our flowers and vegetables along, however.
Planting anything is best done
on a cool, cloudy day - or even
in a light sprinkle. If we’ve had
a few days of rain, it’s better to
wait for the soil to dry out a little
before planting. Tilling wet soil is
definitely a no-no, and walking on
wet soil can compact it, ruining
soil structure.
The Providence Journal
Thursday, June 12, 2014
6
I planted my tomatoes on a warm dry day in early
June, and we almost immediately got hit by a
spell of days in the 90s. I had grown these babies
from seed, and hardened them off outside, but a
big, leafy tomato can lose a lot of water in the hot
sun when it’s 94. So I created some shade for my
tomatoes by draping row cover over the tomato
cages. It helped.
Row cover is a spun synthetic fabric that is used to
keep insects off plants while allowing water vapor
and sunshine to pass through. It also can keep a
plant a few degrees warmer early or late in the
season if draped right over it. Row cover comes in
various weights, and I had some of the heaviest type.
It did a good job of shading my plants when placed
the cages (and kept in place with clothes pins). I
also kept the soil well watered during the heat wave.
then make sure to spray long enough to deliver
five gallons - in a nice wide circle around the tree.
Watering the root ball is not enough - dry soil
nearby will wick the water away, leaving the root
ball dry in no time.
Many gardeners put down bark mulch in
established perennial beds. This keeps down the
weeds and holds in moisture. But if you add more
mulch each year to pretty-up the beds, you can
develop a layer of bark that is almost impermeable
to rain. I find an inch to an inchand-a-half of mulch is adequate.
And I try to leave a little
doughnut hole around the plant
so that quick showers can deliver
some water to the roots.
Recently I examined some
maples that were dying in a
parking lot - the top half of one
was completely leafless, the
others also showed some leaf
loss. These trees were suffering
from bark rot due to “mulch
volcanoes”. Each had at least
6 inches of bark mulch right
up against the trunk. I predict
that all will be dead from bark
rot within two to three years.
And all will struggle getting any
moisture. So be judicious in
applying your mulch.
Adding compost, or aged cow
manure, will help any soil. If you
have sandy soil, compost will act
as a sponge to hold moisture from
percolating right through. If you
have a clay soil, it will improve
drainage and make the soil lighter
and fluffier - and more receptive
to roots. Avoid fresh cow or horse
manure as it will introduce grass
and weed seeds to your soil those animals don’t digest all the
seeds.
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab
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A few words about watering: I don’t like overhead
sprinklers. Yes, they are easy to turn on and let
the machine do the work. But they get the leaves
of your plants wet, and that can encourage fungal
diseases. Most fungi send out hyphae (rootlike
appendages) that pierce the leaf, allowing the
fungus to infect the plant. Many need a moist leaf
surface to do that. Watering in the evening with an
overhead sprinkler moistens the leaves and makes
them more susceptible.
I like watering with a watering wand. This is a
nice 30-inch long metal handle with a watering
rose on one end and a shut-off on the other. The
brand I like best is Dramm. It sends out a gentle
spray, even with the water pressure up fairly
high. I find the less expensive watering devices
send sharp sprays, which can damage the plants
or wash away the soil. I like the watering wand
because I can deliver water to the root zone while
letting the tops stay dry.
Newly planted trees and shrubs need to be
watered weekly, or even more often if the soil
is sandy and temperatures are high. The most
common cause of first-year death of trees is
dehydration. But don’t just give your new tree a
quick squirt. Time how long it takes for your hose
to deliver five gallons of water into a bucket, and
If we have another week of rainy weather, your
vegetables like tomatoes may show yellowing
leaves - a sign of stress. This occurs because plants
normally pull up nitrogen and other minerals
from the soil with water that is used to replace
water lost to transpiration on sunny days - but
not in rainy spells. The solution: spray liquid fish
fertilizer onto the leaves. The leaves will absorb
the nitrogen and green up.
So don’t worry, be happy. No matter what the
weather, your garden will (eventually) be just fine.
Henry Homeyer is a gardening consultant and
the author or four gardening books. His Web
address is www.Gardening-Guy.com.
Addressing moss growth
on your property
Before addressing moss in your yard, it helps to understand why moss
grows and then look at the various ways to control it once it does.
Moss is one potential lawn issue that many
green-thumbers would prefer to avoid. While
moss is not always harmful, it can be unsightly
and lawn care enthusiasts may spend a
significant amount of money attempting to
control it. Controlling moss can be costly, but
there are some ways to control moss that will
not cost homeowners much money at all.
WHAT CAUSES MOSS GROWTH?
Moss can grow in a yard for a variety of
reasons, but the most common cause of moss
growth is insufficient sunlight to support the
grass. Sunlight might be blocked by shade from
nearby trees or shrubs or even shadows from
your home.
Soil conditions may also be responsible for
moss growth. Soil that is very acidic can
promote moss growth, and the moss that grows
because of acidic soil will appear very healthy.
Compacted soil can also promote moss growth
because such soil has low oxygen levels that
make it hard for the turf to establish strong
roots, and moss will take advantage of those
weaker roots.
Soil with low fertility levels is also amenable
to moss, as it does not produce a healthy turf.
Unhealthy turf makes it easy for plants with a
low demand for nutrients, including moss, to
establish themselves.
When soil is tested and it is determined that the
soil is acidic, then the soil must be adjusted.
Lime might be applied to rebalance the soil,
but homeowners should consult a lawn care
professional for advice as to the best way to
rebalance their soil.
Lawn-care enthusiasts often bristle at the sight
of moss on their luscious lawns. But moss is
often an easily remedied issue that homeowners
can address in a variety of ways.
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Thursday, June 12, 2014
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If moss is growing because of compacted soil,
aerate the turf and soil to break it up and allow
the oxygen to reach the soil. When that occurs,
the turf will begin to establish stronger roots
and make it more difficult for moss to grow.
The Providence Journal
Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_07
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Lawn care enthusiasts put lots of time and effort
into their lawns and take great pride when that
work pays off with a luscious green lawn. But
no lawn is immune to problems, and even the
most well-maintained property can develop
issues that compromise the lawn’s health and
aesthetic appeal.
HOW CAN I SOLVE THE
PROBLEM OF MOSS GROWTH?
Moss that grows because of excessive shade
can often be addressed with some minor efforts.
If the shade is a result of trees or bushes,
prune them regularly so sunlight can reach the
turf and promote strong turf and roots. If the
shade is caused by your house, then you might
consider removing the existing turf and then
seeding the area with a turf mix that caters to
shaded areas.
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Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_08
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REMODELING
When you plant potatoes,
keep an eye out for blight
By Henry Homeyer
Special to The Journal
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_10
Color: C
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Why is it that some people use nicknames for
their children that are the names of vegetables
or flowers? I’m sure you are familiar with “sweet
pea” as a loving epithet (even for kids who are
not sweet), or “pumpkin” for children who are
neither round nor orange. The French, I am told,
call their lovers “petit chou” which translates as
“little cabbage.” But I have never heard anyone
refer to a loved one as a potato. I wonder why,
since potatoes are some of the
easiest of vegetables to grow. I
suggest you plant some now if
you haven’t already.
Thursday, June 12, 2014
The Providence Journal
If you have those nasty potato
beetles, what should you do?
The first line of defense is handpicking. Look for the yellowish larvae or striped
adults on leaves, and pop them in soapy water.
Look for orange eggs on the underside of leaves,
too. Check daily as soon as you have leaves on
your plants. Don’t let a second generation get
started, and you will have fewer problems.
10
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PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
I always wait until June to plant
my potatoes, even though I
could have done so in early
May. I have found that later
planting decreases problems
with the Colorado potato beetle.
That is an observation that I
have previously reported here,
and other gardeners have told
me that when they planted later
they, too, had fewer problems. I
like to joke that by planting later
all the beetles have gone next
door.
You might also try an organic spray to control
beetles. It is called Bt, which stands for
Bacterium thuringiensis, a naturally occurring
soil bacterium that is available at garden centers
as a powder. Dilute it with water and spray
on leaves. When larvae eat leaves with the
bacterium, a protein in the bacterium makes
them sicken and die. It is not a contact poison,
and will not harm us or our critters - nor will it
kill adult beetles.
Potatoes are grown from sprouted pieces of
last year’s crop. I generally save potatoes from
one year to the next for planting. I went 25
years without buying potatoes until we got
late blight in 2010. Blight can overwinter in
potatoes, so it is not advisable to keep potatoes
for planting if you’ve had late blight. If you want
to plant potatoes, don’t buy them at the grocery
store. Most conventional potatoes are treated
to prevent them from sprouting. Buy “seed
potatoes” sold for planting - they are guaranteed
disease-free.
the soil over the trench to create even more
growing space.
The third way to plant is to use a post hole
digger. Dig holes 6 to 9 inches deep, add
compost and fertilizer in the bottom of the hole
and stir. Place your potato in the hole and cover
with 2 inches of soil. As the potato vine grows,
it is easy to push a little soil down the hole - in
fact, rain often does it for me.
If you mulch your plants with
straw or hay it will help keep
down the weeds and keep the
soil lightly moist. I wait to mulch
until plants are a foot tall.
There are many varieties of
potatoes available to choose
from. One of the most
productive is Kennebec, the
classic white Maine potato.
Also very good is Red Pontiac,
which has red skins and a white
interior. Both are excellent
keepers, staying tasty all winter
and into the spring. I also grow
purple-skinned potatoes; they
are called All Blue or Peruvian
Blue, though they are smaller
Photo by Henry Homeyer and less productive than some.
And I usually grow Yukon Gold,
a yellow-fleshed potato that is very tasty and
I have tried three different planting techniques,
and all work just fine. Let’s start with the easiest. quite productive. Fingerling potatoes are tasty,
but much less productive than those listed
Loosen the garden soil with a spading fork
above.
and stir in some bagged organic fertilizer and
compost to the soil. Place on the soil surface
Harvesting potatoes is one of the high points of
some seed potatoes (or pieces of seed potatoes)
with at least two “eyes” (buds). Then cover them my garden year. I start in mid- to late summer,
stealing a few by reaching down under a plant
with 6 inches of hay. Add more compost or soil
and pulling up a potato or two for dinner, but
on top of the hay so that no light gets to the
not disturbing the plant. Digging potatoes in the
chunks of potato. As the plants grow, add more
fall is like digging for treasure, and is great to do
hay and/or soil. The potatoes themselves grow
with kids.
above the seed potato; they need 6 inches of
covering to have adequate space to develop.
So plant a few potatoes this summer - and start a
I have also planted potatoes in a trench 6 inches new trend by calling your loved one your “little
potato.” As far as I am concerned, that would be
deep. I loosen the soil in the trench and add
a compliment!
some compost and bagged organic fertilizer. I
place the seed potatoes 8 to 12 inches apart,
push them into the loose soil, and cover them
Henry Homeyer is a gardening consultant and
with 2 inches of soil. As they grow I add more
the author or four gardening books. His Web
soil until the trench is full. Some people hill up
address is www.Gardening-Guy.com.
Deer proofing a garden
Keeping deer at bay involves some work and maintenance on the part
of a homeowner. There are safe and humane methods to repelling
deer, or at least blocking access to the plants worth protecting.
Here are the main ways to deer-proof a garden.
FENCE IT
Fences are one way to deter
deer from entering a yard and
dining on your garden. Keep
in mind that deer can jump
fences that are quite tall, but
they have to be especially
motivated to jump an eightfoot-tall fence. Still, they tend
to be weary about scaling a
fence when they cannot see
what is on the other side.
Therefore, if you are fencing
out deer, choose a fence that
camouflages the garden well
and completely encloses the
area to be protected. If you do
not want the fence to be solid,
consider putting stakes or
thorny plants within the garden
so that the deer will hesitate to
jump into the garden.
SCARE THEM
Deer are naturally skittish
around people, but over
time they can become quite
complacent around human
beings. Once a deer decides
that something will not present
a threat, the deer can adapt to
its presence.
Motion-activated devices may
not work, nor the presence of
pets. Predator urine is typically
an effective way at keeping
deer at bay. Bottled coyote
urine can be quite effective,
although human urine may
work as well. Reapplying the
product weekly around the
plants is a good idea.
REPEL THEM
There are many organic or
chemically-based products on
the market that deer may find
offensive to the taste or smell.
Hot pepper, sulfur and eggs
or even the use of soapy
water have been successful in
certain instances. The use of
blood meal or even human
hair around the garden may
repel the deer and keep them
on a different foraging path.
However, remember that any
deer that is very hungry may
ignore unpleasant tastes or
smells for a quick bite.
CHANGE PLANTS
If other food sources are available, there are some species of plants and
trees that deer will avoid. Filling your garden with these plants can help
you maintain a beautiful, albeit untasty, environment for deer.
WHEN PLANTING ANNUALS,
SELECT AMONG:
• Alyssum
• Begonias
• Calendula
• Celosia
• Dianthus
• Foxglove
• Geraniums
• Parsley
• Poppy
• Snapdragons
PLANT THESE HERBS
ALONGSIDE FLOWERS FOR
EVEN MORE PROTECTION:
• Chives
• Eucalyptus
• Garlic
• Mint
• Thyme
• Wintergreen
IN TERMS OF PERENNIALS,
PLANT THESE ITEMS ONCE,
AND DEER COULD STAY AWAY:
• Ageratum
• Anemone
• Astibe
• Bearded iris
• Catmint
• Honeysuckle
• Lantana
• Monkshood
• Rock rose
• Rosemary
• Soapwort
• Wisteria
Gardeners who use a
combination of methods to
keep deer out of their yards
and gardens may have a
higher success rate at deterring
these animals.
Thursday, June 12, 2014
11
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Deer are opportunists who will no doubt see your garden as a salad
bar ripe with all of their favorite foods. As housing developments
continue to encroach on the natural habitats of deer and other animals,
these animals are becoming more visible. Deer may not be able to
forage for food effectively in their smaller, natural surroundings, or
they may become accustomed to the “easy pickings” they find in
neighborhood yards. Either way, you may encounter a deer in or
around your area.
The Providence Journal
Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_11 Color: C
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Creating a beautiful and bountiful garden is a popular pastime for
people all across the country. It is important to keep in mind that
aesthetically appealing plants may be appetizing to area wildlife,
including deer. Those who do not want their gardens to turn into allyou-can-eat buffets for deer, rabbits and other wild animals can take a
more proactive approach to gardening.
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_12 Color: C
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PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
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Eco-conscious ways to
tend to your lawn
Many homeowners are constantly on the lookout for ways to
make their homes more environmentally friendly. Such a
pursuit is both noble because it helps the environment and
practical because it often saves money.
Stay local.
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_14
Color: C
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If you need to plant new grass or you’re
beginning a garden, then stick with local
plants, flowers and grasses rather than more
exotic options that are not native to your area.
Plants, flowers and grasses that aren’t native
to your region will require more maintenance
and often more watering. That added
maintenance might prove to be a headache,
and that excessive watering will not be
beneficial to the environment. Native plants,
flowers and grasses have already adapted to
your climate, and they can be provide just
as much aesthetic appeal as more exotic
alternatives.
Thursday, June 12, 2014
The Providence Journal
A push mower that does not rely on gas to work is one way homeowners can take a more
eco-friendly approach to lawn care.
14
User: [email protected]
Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Turn back the clock on your tools.
While there are many eco-friendly
improvements homeowners make inside their
homes, it’s important to note that there are
several ways for men and women to be more
environmentally conscious outside of their
homes as well. Lawn care can be done in a
way that’s conscious of the environment, and
the results can be just as appealing as if the
lawn were tended to without regard for the
planet. The following are just a few of the
many ways homeowners can adopt more ecofriendly practices when tending to their lawns.
Be conscientious when watering.
Overwatering a lawn is pretty common,
especially during the dog days of summer,
when homeowners try to overcompensate
for hot days with excessive watering. The
growth of moss on sidewalks or the driveway
is a telltale sign that you’re watering too
much, as is a standing pool of water on the
grass. Homeowners who find it difficult to
determine when their lawns have gotten
enough water can purchase an intelligent
irrigation control system that adapts your
watering to a lawn’s needs as well as the
weather.
Avoid pesticides.
Many homeowners treat their lawns with
pesticides, which can make a lawn look
beautiful. But that beauty typically comes
at a steep price, impacting local wildlife
and perhaps even the local water supply.
When pesticides are applied to a lawn, the
chemicals within may run off into your local
water supply. If you can’t avoid pesticides
entirely, then do your best to minimize how
often you use them.
Before gas mowers became the standard,
man-powered push mowers were used to
cut the grass. Such mowers still exist, and
they require no fuel, making them a more
eco-friendly option than their gas-powered
counterparts.
Along those same lines, leaf blowers are a
far less friendly way to rake leaves in the fall
or clean the yard after a long winter. While
there’s no denying their effectiveness, leaf
blowers need gas to operate, while a rake just
requires some elbow grease and a little extra
time out in the yard.
Don’t let rain water go to waste.
Rain barrels are a great way to make good use
of rain. Rain barrels can be placed beneath a
gutter’s downspout, where they will collect
water that can be reused throughout your
property to water the lawn and garden. Rain
barrels can be relatively expensive, but over
time they will pay for themselves as you save
money on your water bill.
Lawn care can be conducted in a way that
benefits the environment as well as your
bottom line.
Tackle flying pests in the yard
enjoy bugs’ presence as true harbingers of the
new season, others who are less enamored
with flying insects, especially when they make
time outdoors into an exercise in discomfort.
Homeowners concerned about the presence of
flying insects in their yard can take various steps
to manage sharing outdoor spaces with insect
life.
PREVENTION
Different varieties of insects begin their lives as
eggs that may hatch into nymphs or worm-like
creatures known as larvae. Oftentimes, these
eggs are deposited in water or in damp areas.
Mosquito larvae, for example, thrive in stagnant
water before they turn into winged, biting
insects. Keeping outdoor areas free of standing
water and ensuring proper drainage are two
ways to reduce the population of certain bugs
in the yard. Welcoming animals, such as birds
enjoy the weather while the insects stay on
the other side of the screen. In climates where
three-season swimming is possible, some
homeowners actually create screened-in rooms
that encompass their entire pool.
TRAPS
heroes of the landscape, as they are responsible
for pollinating many flowers and plants.
There are a variety of different traps on the
market geared toward different insect life. Most
use some sort of attractant, whether a scent or
light to lure the insects to the trap. Then the
bugs fall inside and cannot get out.
Although there are some
chemical-based traps
or bug “zappers,” there
are other more natural
traps and more humane
options, too. Setting traps
away from patios and
living spaces will lure the
insects to the traps and
keep them away from
you. Once the trapped
insects expire, you can
bury them in the ground
to naturally decompose.
Setting traps out very
early in the season will
help to trap as many
emerging insects as
possible. You also may be
able to trap the queens of
certain insects, like bees
or wasps, further reducing the number of bugs
you will see throughout the year.
REPELLENTS
Repellents are natural or chemically derived
formulas that are worn or placed in proximity
to people. These repellents want insects to find
them. Once found, the repellents’ smell or taste
is deemed questionable by the insects, who will
then seek out other areas to reside.
Repellents will vary in efficacy and some may
need to be reapplied frequently to remain
effective. However, they are a useful tool when
you will not be staying in one spot in the yard.
SCREENS
If you spend ample time outdoors, especially
at dusk, then investing in a screened-in room
may be the way to go. This way you can
BENEFICIAL BUGS
Insects like butterflies and bees are the unsung
Honeybees and bumblebees will generally keep
to themselves if their nests are not disturbed
and can actually be enjoyable to watch as they
buzz from flower to flower. Wasps, like yellowjackets, can be attracted to sweet smells, so
keeping sugary drinks and foods covered can
keep them at bay. Or you may want to lure
them to another area of the yard with a bit of
raw meat or a can of fruit punch.
Sharing outdoor living spaces with flying insects
can be aggravating. But there are many options
at a homeowner’s disposal to control such
unwanted guests.
Gardening tips
for beginners
Gardening can be a little daunting for
beginners who have little or no experience
planting flowers or vegetables. But
gardening need not be so intimidating,
especially for those beginners who adhere
to the following tip to start their gardens
off on the right foot.
Preparing the soil a few weeks before you
start planting can help the plants thrive
down the road. Add some organic material,
such as compost or fertilizer, to the soil
roughly three weeks before planting. This
helps the soil retain water and nutrients,
which will help your garden thrive.
Mulch can be as aesthetically appealing as
it is effective. Mulch retains soil, helping
roots to grow stronger, while deterring
bugs and preventing weed growth. And
many gardeners find mulch adds visual
appeal their garden, and does so in a very
inexpensive way.
Thursday, June 12, 2014
15
User: [email protected]
When the weather warms, insects that may
have been dormant during the winter begin to
exit their dens and reproduce in earnest. Many
insects overwinter as eggs and larvae, and
multitudes break their dormancy at the same
time as host plants. Beetles, flies, gnats, bees,
mosquitoes, termites, butterflies, moths, and
many other bugs can be seen in abundance
in the spring. While there are people who
and bats that feed on a trove of insects, to the
yard can naturally keep insect numbers down.
Flies lay about 50 to 100 eggs at one time. The
eggs will hatch into maggots in as little as 12
hours after being deposited. Keeping yards
free from decaying matter, especially around
entertaining areas, can limit the number of flies
in the yard.
The Providence Journal
Time: 06-05-2014 11:39 Product: PJC_Tab
PubDate: 06-12-2014 Zone: PRE
Edition: 1 Page: NICHE1_15 Color: C
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The warmer months provide ample
opportunities for outdoor entertaining or simply
enjoying time spent in the yard as a family. But
moments in the fresh air and sunshine can be
negatively affected by the presence of flying,
buzzing or biting bugs.
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