Rosy Reflections

Rosy Reflections
“Instead of complaining that the rosebush is full of thorns, be
happy that the thorn bush has roses.” ~German Proverb
APRIL 2011
What to consider when choosing a Rose color
Understanding 2
Mason Jar
PNW Rose
Show & Dis-
Who would have thought
that you needed a decorator to color coordinate
your roses with your
home. Well, you really
don’t have to go this far
but there are a few things
you can consider when
choosing your rose color.
It brings out the rose and
play Schedule
Understanding 7
Straw Bale
Spring Check- 9
Recipe of the
accents your home when
you consider the background your rose will be
contrasted with. Any rose
looks great with a quiet,
neutral, or plain background such as an older
wood fence, a stone wall,
or a green hedge. Soft
pink roses are great with
weathered brick. Warm-
colored roses can brighten
a gray or white wall. On a
sun drenched patio a white
or other pale-colored rose
makes it seem cooler during the day and they glow
as night falls. Use these
suggestions and you too
will have a fashion forward home with rose accents.
How to read a Fertilizer Label
Ever wonder what the
numbers on your bag or
box of fertilizer means?
The label on a bag of fertilizer shows the percentages
of nutrients in the mix.
The three numbers shown
most prominently, called
the N-P-K ratio, refer to the
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium respectively. For example,
an 10-8-6 fertilizer contains,
by weight, 10 percent nitrogen, 8 percent phosphorus,
and 4 percent potassium.
Nitrogen is the most critical element. It promotes
good foliage growth. Phosphorus helps the plant
process nutrients and take
up what the soil provides. It is needed for
flowering or fruit production and you can
tell if your garden is
lacking this from a
purplish hue and
poor growth and
flowering. Potassium
helps the inner workings of the plant and
you can tell if you are
lacking this if the fruit
tastes bland or the
plant is small and
Image obtained “A Fertilizer Primer:
weak looking. So,
What’s in that Rose Food? By Jill
depending on what
Barnard (ARS)
your goal is at that
time of the season you can
these nutrients are the most
pick and choose which of
important to you.
What are Hardiness Zone Maps?
In the mid-1900s, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) mapped out the entire United States,
Mexico and Canada by lowest annual minimum
temperature groupings. Each zone represented a
10 degree F. difference. This was invaluable advice for the agriculture industry. Now plants
could be rated by hardiness zones, taking the
guesswork out of choosing plant varieties. You
had a gauge, other than experience, for picking
The maps have been revised over the years, to reflect changes in climate. When cities and towns
were moved from one zone to another, gardeners
were left to wonder what would happen to their
existing garden plants. While our climate may be
shifting, these changes did not occur overnight.
Plants are adaptable, surviving in many different
climates. They also cannot read maps.
In 1990, the zones were further divided, with each
numbered zone being broken down into an ‘a', the
lower temperature end of the zone, and an ‘b', the
higher. Unfortunately plant breeders have yet to
start using these distinctions, so they are mostly
useful if a gardener wants to push the envelope a
bit. A gardener in zone 6b will be tempted to dab-
USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
North-West US
By Marie Ianotti
ble in 7a plants. Given the variability of climate,
it's a hit and miss situation.
The American Horticulture Society (AHS) introduced a Plant Heat-Zone Map in 1997, intended to
supplement the hardiness map. Heat related problems are much harder to quantify. High summer
temperatures only told half the story. Plants don't
usually react to a day or two of heat they way
they might respond to a frost. However, plants
subjected to a two week heat wave could well succumb. Other variables that weren't considered
were things like humidity levels, nighttime temperatures and rainfall.
What's Changing?
The AHS was awarded a grant to update the
USDA Hardiness Zone Map. They studied 30
years of weather data and are in the process of
updating the zone maps to include mitigating circumstances such as the length of cold spells in the
winter, airflow patterns, the effect of large bodies
of water like oceans and lakes and heat factors.
The distinction of 'a' and 'b' sub-zones is gone.
There will now be 15 zones instead of the current
How Will This Affect My Garden?
Hardiness zones are more of a tool for gardeners
than gospel. Weather is just too unpredictable.
What's growing well in
your garden now should
continue to grow well. The
usefulness of the new Hardiness zones will mostly
depend on how well
plants are tested and labeled. How quickly the
plant industry will adapt
to using these new maps
remains to be seen, but it
will make it more difficult
for people like me, in zone
denial, to come up with
excuses for high plant
mortality. (Map)
Grandma’s Mason Jar
Propagating Roses by Rooted Cuttings (Santa Clarita Valley Rose Society)
By Kitty Belendez, Master Consulting Rosarian
Everybody has a story to tell of how
their grandma would stick a piece
of rose stem into the ground and
then place a Mason Jar over the
stem to make it grow. There are
tales of how the early American
settlers of the 1800's traveled to the
far reaches of the wild west in covered wagons, with grandma bringing along "starts" of her favorite
roses from back home. Perhaps the
treasures of these "monsters on
wooden wheels" were raided, and
they discovered the Yellow Rose of
Texas hiding under the bonnets of
the women. Or maybe the settlers
used their precious "starts" to barter
for provisions along the endless
dusty trails.
Rose propagating methods have
changed over the years, from the
simple own-root varieties of the
Victorian era, and progressing to
the budded hybrids of the 20th century with its many options of exotic
understock such as Rosa multiflora,
Dr. Huey, Manettii, and Fortuniana.
Now, rumor has it that many of the
modern hybridizers and commercial growers are interested in returning to the simplicity of yore.
Today's commercial rose growers
are finding that budded roses are
just too labor-intensive and expensive to produce. Because of this, it
appears that we can look forward to
more own-root roses being introduced and sold at our local nurseries in the future. Own-root roses
will eliminate suckering and hopefully will eventually help to eradicate mosaic virus.
Although miniature roses have always been grown on their own
roots since the 1950's when they
were first introduced, Ralph Moore
of Sequoia Nursery in Visalia, CA,
near Fresno, has also offered many
of the larger roses on own-root
along with his vast selection of
minis. His Playgirl floribunda has
always been sold by Ralph as ownroot cuttings in 4-inch pots, as well
as a good assortment of other ownroot floribundas and old garden
Heirloom Roses of Oregon, offers a
huge catalog of old garden roses
and shrubs that are mostly grown
on their own roots. The plants may
look puny when you first receive
them, but it doesn't take long before
they are up and running as fast as
their budded
counterparts in
the garden.
So grandma had
the right idea in
the first place,
and she really
did know what
she was doing. It
has always been
fun to start roses
from cuttings.
Take a cutting about 6"
Some people get
their kicks by
going "rose rustling" in the deserted
cemeteries of old and forgotten
mining towns. Others just take a
twig from their favorite rose and
stick it into the ground in their
backyard. There is nothing neither
complicated nor scientific about
taking cuttings of roses and rooting
them to "start" a new plant. There
are various ways of taking rose cuttings, so let's tell you how.
Stick in the Mud Method: I know
of some people who have simply
stuck the rose cuttings in the
ground without covering it with a
jar, and they have had some success. This method works best in
mild climates with good soil.
Grandma's Mason Jar: For the beginner this is probably the easiest
way to take cuttings. Not much
equipment is
needed, just a
clear quart-size
glass jar and
some cuttings
from your favorite rose. For
you modern
sodapop lovers,
Wound the bottom of
a 2-liter plastic
the stem.
bottle with the
bottom cut off
will work just as well. Cut a piece of
rose stem about 6 inches long, remove the bottom set of leaves, and
just stick the stem into the ground
(or into a pot) a couple inches deep,
and cover with a jar or bottle. You
will need to periodically water the
soil around the jar, otherwise the
rose stem will dry out. It will take a
couple of months for the rose stem
to take root and begin leafing out
with its new growth. The best time
of year is spring or early fall. If you
live in a mild climate, then winter
and summer can also be successful
for rooting roses. Intense summer
heat of 100 degrees is not conducive for taking cuttings, nor are 32
degree or below winters.
The Baggie Method: This was the
first method I ever tried. Here you
fill 2-inch plastic pots with potting
soil, insert the rose stem halfway
inside the pot, then put the pots
into a one-gallon plastic zip-lock
bag. You can get four 2-inch pots
into each gallon bag. I didn't like
this method because it caused many
of the cuttings to rot since the bags
tended to fold over and therefore
prevented the air from circulating.
The success rate of this method is
not very good. It may be helpful to
place a couple of small sticks inside
the bag to help keep it upright and
Grandma’s Mason Jar (cont)
full of air.
The Misting
Method: As
you get more
in your rose
methods you
may eventually want to
set up a mistDip the bottom of
ing bench. It
the stem in hormone can be an open
rooting powder.
-air bench or
one enclosed
in a greenhouse, or even a small
misting box, similar to the one my
husband Bob built for me. (Refer to
"How We Made Our Misting Box,"
from Rose Ecstasy, March 1999).
You could choose to rig it up with a
manual or an automatically-timed
mister, whatever your time, money,
or expertise will allow. I am fortunate to have a very handy guy for a
husband, who is a good sport
whenever I come up with these
crazy project ideas.
might cost $350 or more.
o Label your
rose cuttings
with their
proper name.
A special stainless steel screen on
the handle of the unit raises up
when it is dry. When this happens,
it throws the mercury switch which
o It takes 4
opens the solenoid valve and starts
to 8 weeks
the misting cycle. When this
for the cutstainless steel screen accumulates
ting to root,
enough mist, the weight of the wadepending
ter drops it down again, shutting
on the
off the mercury switch, closing the
weather and
solenoid valve. It needs practically The cuttings will root
the rose varino care or maintenance and can be after 6 to 8 weeks.
left on, unattended day and night.
o Keep the cuttings moist at all
This control unit is a very practical
times, with good air circulation and
instrument which will have a long
lifetime of carefree maintenance.
o Make slits in the bottom inch of
There are no clocks to adjust, and it
the stem to encourage more rooting.
is not affected by water conditions.
I scrape off some of the stem with a
It works simply on the weight of
water. The major benefit of the Mist
-a-Matic is to control the misting
o Make sure the pots are very clean
cycle according to weather condibefore using them, especially if you
tions. Too much water promotes
are reusing them. Wash them out
disease and wastes water. Too little
with soap and hot water. An autowater causes leaves to wilt and failmatic dishwasher works well for
ure to root. The Mist-a-Matic discleaning small pots.
tributes the correct amount of waNEW OR OLD WOOD?
ter. In hot weather, the unit will
When we first set up our mister, we
turn on more frequently as the waI have successfully taken cuttings
installed two battery-powered timter evaporates. In cooler weather,
with both new and old wood. It is
ers, as each one only had four times
the unit turns on less frequently.
important to let the new stems sufper day that it could turn on. The
For operation, you will need to plug
ficiently mature. The new wood is
first model we purchased could not
the unit into an electrical outlet.
usually mature enough after the
handle our very high water presYou need to hook it up to a water
stem has just finished blooming. If
sure of 120 psi and kept exploding.
source with misting nozzles.
you don't let the stem mature
Other models we tried were just not
enough, then it usually becomes
dependable in coming on every
Planting Mediums: The planting
limp and will die before you can get
hour, and the
medium that I have found to be the
Place the cuttings in
it to root. I take cuttings from new
batteries often
most successful for rooting rose cutmoistened potting soil
rose stems in the spring right after
mixed with 50% perlite.
the first bloom cycle. Then in early
soil and perlite. This is a very light
Now we are
to late fall (in Southern California) I
blend that encourages the roots to
trying the Mistprefer to use more mature or old
grow quickly. Others have used
a-Matic system.
wood. When using old wood in the
blends of sand or vermiculite with
We got ours as
fall, I will remove the cuttings from
some success.
a hand-methe Mason jar, baggie, or mister,
down from an
Other Tips for Rooting Cuttings:
after only several weeks since it is
elderly rosarian
cool enough then for them to root
o Use sharp cutters to prevent
friend who reon their own as long as I water
crushing the stem.
tired to a nursthem daily.
o Rooting hormone is optional; sucing home. A
cess rate is much better with it.
new one from
Schedule of 2011 Rose Shows and Displays
Pacific Northwest District
American Rose Society
June 5
Tri-City Rose Society
June 9-10
Portland Rose Society (Spring Show)
June 11
Rogue Valley Rose Society
June 11-12
Corvallis Rose Society
June 18
Ft. Vancouver Rose Society
June 19
Heritage Rose Society (Display)
June 18-19
Seattle Rose Show
June 25
Southwestern Oregon Rose Society
Spokane Rose Society
June 25
Tacoma Rose Society (District Rose Show)
July 2
Olympia Rose Society
July 9
Kitsap County Rose Society
July 16
Rainy Rose Society (Display)
August 13
Portland Rose Society (Mini Show)
September 10
Tualatin Valley Rose Society
September 17
Portland Rose Society (Fall Show)
Straw Bale Gardens
I know this is a rose newsletter
but if the readers are like Greg
and I you dabble in other things.
Last year the Kitsap County
Master Gardeners did this in the
demonstration garden at the
Fairgrounds and this year Greg
and I are going to try it.
The best straw bales for a garden
are wheat, oats, rye or barley
straw. These consist of stalks left
from harvesting grain; they have
been through a combine harvester and had the seeds
threshed from them, leaving none or very few left.
Put each bale in the exact
place, because it's hard to
even nudge these bales
once they are wet. Gardeners seem to be divided on
the best way to lay the bales
down…string side on the
ground, or string parallel to
the ground. If it is a string
that will rot you might
want to stake the sides.
Just like a normal vegetable garden, your straw bale garden
needs 4-8 hours of sun. If you
have a sunny rot-proof wall, you
can put your bales against it and
grow tomatoes, cucumber or
similar vegetables up the wall.
A very popular idea for straw
bales is to make a raised garden
bed with the bales as the edge.
This limits excessive evaporation
from both the garden in the middle and one side of the bale.
If you start with aged bales of
about 6 months or more, they
may already have been through
their initial weathering and starting to decompose slightly inside.
If they have been wet at all they
almost certainly would have lost
their cool and done their cooking. If not and they are still new
or in pristine condition, they
need to do a bit of cooking before it's safe to plant in them.
Thoroughly soak with water and
add more water so they don't
dry out at all for the next 5 days
while the temperature rises and
cooks them inside. Slowly they
will cool over the next 1-2 weeks
and then be ready for planting.
With the proper fertilizers and
water your straw bale should
warm up to a temperature of
about 100 degrees.
If you want to jump start the
cooking process you can do a 10day pre-treatment regime of water and ammonium nitrate, a
high nitrate fertilizer, fish or
blood meal, or fish oil on the top
of each bale for four to six days
(half a cup). Then for another
couple of days you cut back by
half on the fertilizer. After another couple of days you can
measure the temperature of the
inside of the bale with your bare
hand (should be cooler than
your hand) or use a thermometer. It ultimately provides a bet-
ter base and growing conditions
and saves you having to be so
worried about getting nutrients
to your plants as they start growing.
You can plant when the bales are
still warm which promotes root
growth. The bales won't be composting much inside yet, that
takes months, but you don't
want that initial hot cooking of
your plants. A straw bale garden needs more water than a
typical garden and keeping
the bales wet sometimes
takes twice a day waterings.
As the bales begin to decompose, they will hold
more water and you should
be able to water less frequently. Young plants can
go straight in. Pull apart or
use a trowel and depending
on the state of the straw, put
a handful of compost soil in
also. You can place the
plant down to its first leaf,
and gently close the crack
back together. You can layer
some soil on the top to start with
also. Seeds can be planted on
top if you put a good 2 inches of
compost soil there first.
There's no limit to what you can
plant including putting some
flower annuals around the sides.
Once a week or more often when
your plants are in full growth
water in a liquid organic feed,
such as compost tea or fish emulsion. You can add some worms
on top if you want to use your
bales only one season. When the
season is over it makes for great
compost or mulch when finished
with them.
KCRS Meeting Minutes: March 14, 2011
Meeting was called to order at
7:00 by President, Ray Etheredge,
Society’s fertilizer which he plans
to get this month. It is $21 for 50#
The Pledge of allegiance was recited
Newsletter: Greg Mick asked for
an apprentice for the newsletter
and for articles from the members.
of Raft Island Roses was introduced. He gave a very informative talk on what is going on with
the bigger rose growers, Palentine
roses and on the newest roses for
2011 and 2012. There are some
beauties out there. The talk was
followed by a question and answer period. Frank has generously extended the roses sale
price of $17.95 for the members of
our club through the month of
Following the social and the
50/50 drawing the business
meeting was called to order at
Minutes of the February meeting
were approved
Program Speakers: Joyia Rubens
said that Jack Kiley will be our
guest speaker in April. He will
speak on what is going on in the
Rose World in the PNW
In May our program will be on
choosing and preparing roses for
the Rose Show.
Publicity: Madeline West is doing
publicity for the Rose Show and
Judy Siebel will help
Refreshments: Sharron said that
Judy Siebel and Harry Hinton will
bring refreshments in April
Sunshine: Margie Breunig reported that she had sent a card to
Roberta Messinger and that Eric
Hunter seems to be doing better.
Treasurer’s report: Jerry Breunig
reported that we have $912.71 in
our account.
Framers’ Market: Jenifer Mick
will schedule for June.
President’s report: Ray reported
that he had pruned the roses of
someone who had requested our
help and was given a donation of
$40 for the club
Membership dues are due!
Door Prizes: Sharron Etheredge
reported that Monica Goldsberry
and Ed Evans would bring the
door prizes in April
Library Garden: Gary Siebel reported that the pruning of the
roses was called off because of the
rain. It will be rescheduled for this
Friday, March 18, at 9AM. Gary
took orders for the Puyallup Rose
Rose Show: Date: July 9, 2011 at
SK Food line/Food Bank. They
are providing tables, etc, making
it very easy for us and charging
no fee. Cisco will be there and will
be promoting it on his show. Everyone is urged to bring roses even
if they do not think they are prize
winning quality. We want to have
LOTS OF roses
Membership profiles: everyone
was asked to fill out and return
their form.
We voted to give Fely Messick $30
to help off-set the cost of putting
bouquets in the library for special
Plant sales: There was a discussion on how the sale could be handled. It was decided that a suggested price would be listed and
that we would have a silent auction during the break. The cut off
time for bidding will be called
toward the end of the break and
payment and pick up will be after
the meeting. Donna Hamilton will
call the time. Ray will check
Items for sale: Harry Hinton says
that Nancy used to hybridize
roses and they would like to find
a good home for and sell the
equipment which is no longer being used. It sounds like useful and
good things if anyone is interested. He plans to get rid of it
somehow, so if you are interested,
contact him. (Sec note. If no one in
the Rose Society wants it, I will
suggest he donate it to the Rotary
Annual Garage Sale. I am sure
there is someone out there who
will be happy to have it. So if you
even may want it, contact him!!!!)
Mailing list: The membership list
has been or is being distributed to
all members. Please keep in mind
that it is against our policy to use
this list for other than Rose Society business. Using it, or even
parts of it, to distribute other
types of information is not allowed without specific permission
of the members.
Meeting was adjourned at 9:20
Respectfully submitted,
Donna J Hamilton, Secretary
Spring Chores, here’s what you have to do...
Plants are easier to see when
they are still in the house…
But Spring is a great time to
put them all outside!
1. Finish planting new
bare-root roses and
plant new container
2. Plant roses into display pots.
3. Apply fertilizer to give roses a boost for the coming growing season.
4. Spread organic mulch around roses once the soil has
warmed some.
5. Check the soil for moisture (not a problem this year) and
start watering deeply if needed.
Hard work in the Spring will let you
enjoy your roses all summer long!
6. Start inspecting your roses for pests and diseases, aphids
are common on new growth.
7. Remove and discard suckers from budded roses.
8. Fertilize roses after the first round of spring bloom (lets
hope we have one this year)..
9. After they have flowered, prune climbing roses, ramblers, shrub roses, and species roses that flower only in
10. Remove weeds and winter debris.
11. Train and tie the long new shoots of climbers.
12. Prune away weak, broken, or diseased stems.
Don’t forget your Veggies!
How to choose healthy bare-root and container-grown roses
When choosing either a bareroot or container-grown rose you
should look for thick, green
canes. In bare-root you want a
big cluster of sturdy, fibrous
roots and a stout undamaged
bud union. On either if the canes
are weak or shriveled this is not
the rose for you. Container roses
should be in a large (3-5 gallon)
container due to smaller containers increasing the likelihood that
the roots were probably cut back
hard to fit it in the container. In
container roses the roots should
not be protruding from the bottom or coiling around the root
ball. It is your right to ask the
seller to show you the root ball if
it is a container rose. Avoid any
plant with dieback or weak,
straggly growth. In bare-root
roses, they should not be leafed
out. If you follow these guidelines you should be rewarded
with beautiful roses this summer.
April 11th Meeting
Silverdale Library: Rose Garden Maintenance
Door Prize Providers
Please contact Gary or any member
of the Library Garden Maintenance
“Crew” to see if you can help this
Gift #2 - Ed Evans
Library Rose Garden Committee
Gary Seibel, Jane Michelinie, & Fely
May 9th Meeting
Gift #1 - Monica Goldsberry
Dessert - Judy Seibel, Harry &
Nancy Hintlian
Door Prize Providers
Gift #1 - TBD
Gift #2 - TBD
Dessert - TBD
Multi-Colored Meringues
Courtesy of
1. Separate the eggs. Crack the eggs over a large bowl and separate the
whites from the yolks. You only need the whites.
2. Whisk the whites. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. Be careful not
to overbeat, since they will start to look lumpy -- a little like cotton balls.
There are 3 stages to whisking egg whites. At first stage, the whites form
soft, floppy peaks when the blades are lifted up. Continue whisking and
they will form stiff peaks that stand straight up, perfect for meringues. If
you whisk the egg for too long it becomes lumpy and overbeaten.
3 egg whites
3/4 cups superfine
1/2 tsp cornstarch
1/2 tsp lemon juice
Food coloring -- red,
green, yellow. Use a
toothpick to add one
drop at a time.
3. Add the sugar. Add 1 tsp of sugar to the egg whites; whisk. Pour in a
second and continue whisking. Add remaining sugar, while whisking to
stiff peaks.
4. Add lemon juice. Whisk in the cornstarch and lemon juice until just combined. The meringue should look smooth and glossy.
5. Add a little color. Divide the meringue into 3 bowls and color each one
with a couple of drops of food coloring. Fold the color in using a spatula.
6. Make meringue swirls. Spoon the meringue into a piping bag and squeeze
to make swirls onto 2 cookie sheets lined with parchment. Make each one
about 1 inch across. Now bake in the oven.
7. Bake the meringues for 30-35 minutes, until firm on the outside. Turn off
the oven and leave them for a further 45 minutes. Remove from the oven
and cool.
8. When the meringues are cool, sandwich them together with whipped cream
or softened vanilla ice cream. Makes 30.
Silverdale is located north of Bremerton on the
Kitsap Peninsula and due west of Seattle, WA
Fire Station #51
Meeting Information:
KCRS meets the 2nd Monday of every month.
The next meeting is
April 11, 2011 7:00 p.m.
at the
Silverdale Fire Station #51
**Don’t forget your unwanted items to sell for the
fundraiser during this month’s meeting**
David Austin Roses
Jackson & Perkins
Weeks Roses
2011 KCRS Officers
Ray Etheredge
[email protected]
1st VP / Show Chair:
Jenifer Mick
[email protected]
2 VP / Membership Chair:
Judy Siebel
[email protected]
Kitsap County Rose Society
a proud Member of the
Jerry Breunig
[email protected]
Donna Hamilton
[email protected]
Library Chair:
Gary Seibel
[email protected]
Trustee #1:
Dorothy Guice
Trustee #2:
Ralph Dunning
[email protected]
Trustee #3:
Joyia Rubens 360-792-2265
[email protected]
Madeline West 360-830-0783
[email protected]
Newsletter Editor:
Greg and Jenifer Mick 360-479-3340
[email protected]
Sunshine Chair:
Margie Breunig
[email protected]
We’re on the Web at
Kitsap County Rose Society
Newsletter Editor
PO Box 1063
Seabeck, WA 98380