Document 165099

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QT's DMT Extraction for Students
by Quantum Tantra
O rig inally archive d at ht t p ://d ig iland e r.lib e ro .it /irimias/d mt _g uid e .ht ml ( d e f unct )
Citatio n: Last J. "Article Title". Publicatio n. Jun 15 20 0 3;2:19 .Online editio n: Ero wid.o rg/plants/nutmeg/nutmeg_article#.shtml
NOT E OF WARNING: QT's DMT Extraction for Students is archived by Erowid as a hist orical document . T he process as described has
been crit iqued as f lawed and dangerous several ways. Saf er and more ef f ect ive DMT ext ract ion and purif icat ion t echniques have
been developed and made available in t he years since t he document below was creat ed. For one such process, see Noman's "DMT f or
t he Masses".
Specif ic concerns regarding QT 's t ek, det ailed below, were sent t o Erowid on behalf of t he communit y at T he DMT Nexus, who not e:
"Time and t ime again, people have come t o T he DMT Nexus or ot her web f orums because t hey were f ollowing QT 's t ek and it eit her
didn't work or t hey ran int o serious issues t rying t o f ollow it . Our largest concerns wit h QT 's t ek are relat ed t o healt h and saf et y.
T hroughout t he t ek, comment s on saf ely handling chemicals are scant . If we've learned one t hing, it 's t hat people doing ext ract ions by
f ollowing a t ek as t hough it 's a recipe of t en are not st icklers f or proper handling and saf et y. Following t he t ek as it is writ t en could lead
t o serious bodily harm, it may not successf ully ext ract DMT, and even if some DMT is obt ained, t here is a st rong possibilit y of it being
cont aminat ed wit h t oxic subst ances." Erowid is grat ef ul t o be able t o share t he det ailed comment ary and harm-reduct ion ef f ort s of
T he DMT Nexus f olks. -- T he Erowid Crew, February 4 , 2011
Health and Saf ety Concerns
1) T he t ek recommends using hydrochloric acid wit hout appropriat e guidance on saf e handling. While it also ment ions ot her acids, HCl
is specif ically recommended. However, weaker acids like cit ric acid or vinegar are pref erable alt ernat ives because t hey can be handled
more saf ely and are readily available at grocery st ores.
2) While t he t ek ment ions t he healt h hazards of working wit h dichloromet hane (DCM), it f ails t o not e t he f lammabilit y hazards of
napht ha and et her. It likewise does not ment ion t he int oxicat ion hazards f rom t he f umes, which necessit at e minimizing cont act and
using t hem in a well-vent ilat ed and spark-f ree area (and some f ans t hat one might use f or vent ilat ion could have t he pot ent ial of
creating sparks).
3) T he t ek describes a met hod f or obt aining et her f rom st art ing f luid. T his met hod will generally not obt ain pure et her. Unless t he
ext ract or has a good working knowledge of chemist ry and has consult ed t he Mat erial Saf et y Dat a Sheet (MSDS) f or t he specif ic
st art er f luid, t his could easily lead t o very unhealt hy cont aminant s in one's end product . T he t ek specif ically ment ions Coleman f uel,
Zippo light er f luid, and Ronsonol, all of which have been reported to contain non-volatile contaminants . Part icularly since t he t ek inst ruct s
t he ext ract or t o obt ain t he f inal product by evaporat ion, t his seriously needs t o be addressed t o prevent people f rom unwit t ingly
smoking harmf ul cont aminant s.
4) No healt h and saf et y warnings are provided wit h regard t o chlorof orm, which may be carcinogenic and can have ot her negat ive
healt h ef f ect s if not handled properly.
5) Suggest ing t hat people employ ziploc bags as separat ory f unnels is hazardous in a couple of ways. Such bags are not made f rom
high-densit y polyet hylene (HDPE), a plast ic known t o have a high resist ance t o chemical solvent s. Ziploc bags cont ain plast icizers
(addit ives t hat increase f lexibilit y, and t hat have been implicat ed in adverse ef f ect s on healt h when consumed), which would likely leach
int o napht ha; and since t he napht ha is being evaporat ed, t hese plast icizers will end up in t he ext ract ed DMT. While t he t ek does
suggest making sure t hat t he solvent used doesn't melt t he bag, t his ignores t he likelihood t hat it may leach harmf ul cont aminant s.
(T he suggest ion t o use a "t urkey bast er" may present a similar problem, depending on what t ype of plast ic it is const ruct ed f rom.)
Furt hermore, t here's a very good chance of spilling caust ic chemicals if t he ziploc bag f ails t o work as ant icipat ed.
6) T he t ek calls f or "warm napht ha" on mult iple occasions, but makes no ment ion of how t o go about saf ely warming t his f lamable
solvent . If unwary ext ract ors were t o heat it on a gas st ove, t hey could easily f ind t hemselves wit h a f ireball in t heir f ace!
7) T he t ek does not present suf f icient saf et y warnings regarding lye (sodium hydroxide). "Take proper precaut ions" is not specif ic
enough advice. When working wit h lye, one should wear shat t er-resist ant ant i-f og saf et y goggles, chemical-resist ant (nit rile) saf et y
gloves, a vapor/f luid-resist ant f ace mask, and a polyet hylene saf et y apron, t o prevent blindness and chemical burns. One should also
have an acid such as vinegar on-hand t o neut ralize any possible lye spills.
8) T he t ek recommends obt aining t he DMT by evaporat ing-of f t he napht ha. Bef ore it was widely known t hat purif icat ion could be
perf ormed via f reeze-precipit at ion, t his might have been excusable, if not f or t he f act t hat many of t he t ek's recommended variet ies
of napht ha include non-volat ile cont aminant s, and t he t ek suggest s employing non-HDPE plast ics. Considering t he processes
recommended in t he t ek, any DMT obt ained by evaporat ion is reasonably likely t o be t aint ed wit h harmf ul cont aminant s and would not
be safe to consume. T he t ek acknowledges t hat t he product will be impure, but provides no inf ormat ion on purif ying it . Indeed, it
explicit ly seems t o recommend consuming it , impurit ies and all. And "Don't worry about weighing it " is bad advice, plain and simple.
Technical Errors
1) Incorrect t erminology is used in st ep 3. One is not convert ing t he DMT t o a salt ; it 's already a salt in t he plant mat erial. And, of
course, t he ions dissociat e when salt s dissolve. T he st ep might be more appropriat ely t it led "Dissolving DMT Cat ions in Wat er", or at
least "Dissolving Salt s of DMT ".
2) Incorrect t erminology is used in st ep 8. One is not unhooking t he DMT salt s (t hey're in solut ion, so t hey aren't really hooked t oget her
at all). One is act ually deprot onat ing t he DMT cat ions t o generat e t he f ree-base.
3) QT suggest s t hat ammonia is t ypically used t o basif y, and t hat t his t ek's use of lye is a depart ure f rom t he norm. However, ammonia
is not an ef f ect ive base f or Mimosa tenuiflora [= M. hostilis] root -bark (MHRB). All one will get is a st ubborn emulsion.
4) T he recommended pH af t er adding t he base is t oo low; pH 9 is not high enough. Wit h MHRB in part icular t here are serious emulsion
issues at pH 9; but even ignoring t hat , pH 9 is only 0.32 above t he pKa (-log 10 acid dissociat ion const ant ) of DMT--not t erribly ef f icient .
5) T he t ek st at es t hat it is ideal t o ext ract an alkaloid at it s pKa. T his not necessarily t rue. At it s pK a, half of t he alkaloid is prot onat ed
and t he ot her half unprot onat ed. In ideal condit ions (i.e., assuming inf init e solubilit y in t he nonpolar ext ract ion solvent ), t his is suf f icient
since Le Chât elier's principle is on one's side. But unless t here are inst abilit y-relat ed complicat ions or ot her f act ors t o account f or, it 's
bet t er t o have t he vast majorit y of t he alkaloid in t he desired f orm (in t his case, unprot onat ed)--especially wit h MHRB, where emulsions
are a crucial issue.
6) T he t ek t reat s emulsions as t hough t hey are inevit able, t hat one should not be concerned if t hese t ake several days t o resolve, and
t hat it 's near-miraculous f or an emulsions t o resolve in less t han an hour. T his is insanit y. Emulsions can be prevent ed by ensuring
suf f icient ly high pH and by mixing gent ly (rat her t han shaking, as t he t ek suggest s). T he addit ion of plain salt may be employed as a
f urt her prevent at ive measure.
7) T he t ek suggest s t hat t he f inal product may cont ain "hydroxide". Hydroxide is not a molecule, it 's an ion. It is possible t hat t he
product could cont ain sodium hydroxide or ot her hydroxide salt s, but neit her of t he recommended met hods f or eliminat ing t he
"hydroxide" would help at all if t he product act ually were cont aminat ed wit h sodium hydroxide or anot her hydroxide salt .
Practical Issues
1) T he pH f or st ep 2 is unnecessarily low. While pH 2 won't hurt anyt hing, it 's a wast e of mat erials.
2) Ridiculously long t imes are present ed f or t he aqueous acidic ext ract ion. T he t ek recommends 24 hours f or t he f irst soak, and a
whole week f or subsequent soaks. In realit y, simmering 15-30 minut es t hree t imes will get most of t he DMT out of t he MHRB and int o
solut ion. T here is no need t o spend t wo weeks; t his st ep can be done in t wo hours or f ast er.
3) T he t ek recommends def at t ing, even t hough it is designed f or use wit h MHRB, which is not a f at t y mat erial. T his is a wast e of
solvent and t ime.
4) St ep 7 says t o add warm napht ha t o t he acidic MHRB ext ract and shake it f or f ive minut es before adding lye. T his won't accomplish
anyt hing.
5) T he t ek says t o repeat st eps 7-9 t wo more t imes. In st ep 8, one is t old t o add 5 grams of lye t o t he mix. Is t he t ek really suggest ing
t hat t his st ep is also supposed t o be repeat ed, wit h more lye added each t ime? Of course, t hat ext ra lye isn't going t o hurt --on t he
cont rary, it will likely bring t he pH up int o a more pract ical range t han t he t ek (seems t o) recommend. But why is t he t ek suggest ing t hat
one add more base prior t o each ext ract ion wit h nonpolar solvent , inst ead of adding all t hat one is going t o use at one t ime? We
suspect t hat t his is just an art if act of poor phrasing on t he part of t he t ek's aut hor.
6) T he t ek calls f or using way t oo much napht ha f or ext ract ions, suggest ing 100 ml per pull f or 30 grams of MHRB. A t ent h of t hat
would be suf f icient .
7) In "Lab Not es" under st ep 6, t he t ek suggest s t hat one should be saving t he napht ha f rom t he def at t ing process, but discarding t he
DMT-laden napht ha f rom t he lat er st eps. Why would one want t o save t he (pract ically non-exist ent ) f at s f rom MHRB but t hrow away
t he DMT ?
8) "You will know when DMT is in t he f inal product by t he smell." T his is an odd st at ement , since DMT is supposed t o be t he f inal
product , not merely be cont ained in it .
9) Out dat ed inf o: T he t ek suggest s using Red Devil lye; however, t he manuf act urer of t his brand discont inued product ion in 2005.
10) T he t hree set s of "Lab Not es" f rom QT 's ext ract ion record t hat t he ext ract ions t ook 24 days, 39 days, and 61 days. Yikes! A quick
and ef f ect ive acid/base ext ract ion can be complet ely f inished in 24 hours (and t hat includes t ime f or f reeze-precipit at ions); a big,
leisurely (and f rankly, unnecessarily long) acid/base ext ract ion (BLAB) is st ill done in a week. From a legal st andpoint , it seems prudent
t o complet e an ext ract ion as quickly as possible so t hat --if worse comes t o worst --t he ext ract or is only on t he hook f or possession of
a cont rolled subst ance and not f or manuf act ure as well.
11) T he t ek is writ t en f or MHRB wit h lye as t he base and napht ha as t he non-polar solvent ; yet it implies t hat it would be just as
ef f ect ive f or Phalaris grasses wit h chlorof orm as t he solvent . Unf ort unat ely, dif f erent f act ors need t o be t aken int o account f or
dif f erent plant s and solvent s. Get t ing clean DMT out of Phalaris grasses, in part icular, is a massive chore, requiring it s own specialized
t ek.
Minor Gripes
1) Measuring pH wit h beet s and cabbage? Seriously? T hat 's pret t y ghet t o. Lit mus papers and pH monit ors are f airly cheap if one cared
t o measure t he pH. And wit h MHRB, it 's not necessary; a dash of acid is f ine f or t he init ial ext ract ion, and MHRB provides it s own handy
color-changing react ion when enough base has been added.
2) Mult iple t imes, t he t ek ref ers t o "napt ha" inst ead of napht ha.
"It lasted f or a million years and f or a split-second. But it's over and now it's your turn." -Timothy Leary
Chemical Name:
Alt ernat ive Chemical
Chemical Formula:
Molecular Weight :
Melt ing Point :
Boiling Point :
C12 H 16 N2
44.6-44.8° (crystals)
60-80° (crystals)
60-100 mg (smoking)
350 mg (orally)
Co ntro lle d s ub s tanc e (halluc ino g e n) U.S. Co d e o f Fe d e ral Re g ulatio ns , Title 21 Part 130 8 .11 (19 8 5).
In modern times there has been a reduction of ritual. T he ceremonies, that previously served to cast out an individual f rom modern associations and
throw him into a f ield of epiphanies, have become merely f orm, betraying the inner f orces that must somehow manif est. Shamen know of these
inner f orces. T hey understand the inevitable overwhelming psychological experience that everyone will f ace if they are to complete their inward path
to open the unconscious and f all in. T he psychological crisis is the f ulcrum of any metaphysical realization the individual may have about himself or
his world. Without these intense experiences, without the rituals that convey the message of the journey, and without shamen to show the way,
many are lost in the world searching constantly f arther f or what is contained only within. To chemically f orce such spiritual breakthrough may be
interpreted by some as a way to circumvent the trials that are necessary to test each soul willing to see the truth of their lif e. But in contemporary
society where is the individual to seek these tests of the self or to be struck silent in awe of their own natural beauty or that of the universe? T he
shamen of f ered these opportunities to the individuals of their society f or generations, helping people maintain a healthy psychology between the
known world and the mystical. I now of f er this ability to you in one of many f orms, DMT.
DMT is perhaps the most powerf ul hallucinogen known to man. It is related to LSD and psilocybin. T here are no [commonly used - Erowid] drug
tests that would show DMT usage. None of the basic NIDA-5 drug tests [Erowid Note: Now called the "SAMHSA-5"] or any extended drug test will
show a result f or DMT. DMT is naturally f ormed in the body and has been f ound in abnormal levels in the body f luids of persons suf f ering f rom
schizophrenia. DMT is almost never sold through dealers, rarely synthesized, and seldom used. It is, however, easily extracted f rom common plant
materials and has been used in various f orms f or hundreds of years (timeline ). DMT is not a "social drug" however. Respect the drug and its
incredible potential. T his drug is not f or the inexperienced, nor is it recommended to those who are just looking f or another "high." Few seek the
visions enabled through DMT, and even f ewer return to them. Even avid psychedelic users have had f rightening experiences with DMT on their f irst
encounter with the drug. Take care to research and f ind out if DMT is f or you. I stress that educating yourself about this drug (and about all drugs
you intend to use) will make you a more competent and prepared chemist, tripper, and guide.
T his manual is presented as a quick bench guide f or the complete novice on how to extract DMT. Although the text and illustrations f or the process
were all created by myself , there are a f ew pictures which are not my own. T he origins of these pictures are credited in the bibliography. I would like
to encourage others to add to this manual their own written observations. When attempting to produce any of these products the reader is
encouraged to read through the steps several times to closely f amiliarize himself with the entire process. Please take note that DMT is an illegal
substance in the United States of America and is controlled under f ederal regulations. T he f ollowing is f or educational purposes only.
How to Extract DMT from Natural Sources
(in Ten Easy Steps)
First a plant must be selected that contains the chemicals we wish to extract. None of these plants are illegal and they can be f ound growing wild
and f ree all over the world (much less can be said f or some of our other f avorite plants.) Most of these plant materials can be ordered through the
internet. A little research may reveal a large quantity of some usef ul plant material growing near you. Alkaloid contents of each plant mary vary
according to the growing conditions. Specif ics about these plants and how to grow them are beyond the scope of this manual but the inf ormation
can easily be f ound. Below is a chart of several plants that contain NN-DMT, 5-OH-DMT, and 5-MeO-DMT (DMT 's close cousin.)
Alkaloids reported as percent of total dry plant source mass/weight:
Acacia bark
Acacia maidenii bark
Acacia simplicif olia bark
Mimosa hostilis root (bark)
Virola shoots & f lowers
Desmanthus illinoensis root (bark)
Pilocarpus organensis
Phalaris tuberosa
0.10% NN-DMT
0.022% 5-MeO-DMT
0.005% 5-OH-DMT
Phalaris arundinacea ('net gossip)
0.060% NN-DMT
Psychotria species (averaged, from Jonathan Ott)
0.200% NN-DMT
DMT (N,N-dimethyltryptamine) is one of the most hallucinogenic compounds known. DMT is not active orally
(unless in the form of an ayahuasca brew), but must be smoked in it's freebase form to experience its
effects. (DMT can be taken orally when mixed with a MAOIs, but this is not recommended for the first time
user.) The body quickly builds a tolerance for the drug. Your DMT dose must be taken within 60 seconds.
Any more of the drug after this first minute will not enhance the experience. It is recommended to give at
least one hour before attempting another DMT trip.
Effects of 5-MeO-DMT are psychedelic without the visual distortions found in NN-DMT. 5-MeO-DMT is
taken at 1/4 the dose of NN-DMT and will overpower the NN-DMT.
(Bufotenine) can cause severe physical discomfort including circulatory distress, nausea, psychological
distress (panic and fear), severe skin flushing, and has the possibility of being fatal.
(Monoamine Oxidase Inhibitors) will intensify and prolong the effects of NN-DMT, however this is never
recommended. Foolish combinations of MAOIs and other drugs can lead to serious health problems and
even death. The tryptamines are normally metabolized by an MAO in the body. MAO metabolizes serotonin,
norepinephrine, and dopamine. By inhibiting this, MAOIs increase levels of those neurotransmitters.
Tyramine will not be metabolized and will cause an increase in tyramine levels in the blood.
Extraction Procedure
For our experiment we will be using Mimosa hostilis root-bark to provide a very pure product of NN-DMT
without the over powering inf luence of 5-MeO-DMT or the negative side ef f ects of 5-OH-DMT. For a solvent
we will be using common naphtha. Notes on adaptations f or chemicals and other variations of this process
are described as well. The f ollowing is a list of materials:
It helps to test all non glass materials with solvents to make sure there aren't any adverse reactions.
1. Mimosa hostilis root-bark
2. Muratic acid
3. pH papers
4. Lye
5. Naphtha
6. Coffee filters and cotton swabs/cloth
7. Funnel
8. 3 labeled glass jars with lids (thick canning jars work best, but pickle jars will do)
9. Evaporating dish
10. Glass pipette
11. Goggles and gloves
12. Distilled water
(30g suggested starting amount - $45/100g)
(pool acid - $4/gallon)
(litmus papers - $3/100 tests)
(Red Devil Brand - $5)
(Zippo lighter fluid - $5)
( - $2)
( - $2)
(labeled Jar A , Jar B, and Jar C - $3)
(glass baking pan - $10)
(turkey baster - $4)
( - $10)
( - $2)
Tot al = ~$100.00
STAT EMENT OF HAZ ARDS: Methylene Chloride
Suspect cancer hazard. Risk of cancer depends on duration and level of contact. Harmf ul if swallowed. Causes skin and eye irritation. Causes
respiratory tract irritation. May af f ect blood cells. May af f ect the central nervous system. May cause blindness. Avoid breathing vapor or mist.
Handle with caution. Keep in mind these risks whenever substituting DCM f or any other solvent.
Preparing Plant Material
Grind the plant material to a fine powder. The finer ground the material the better your yields
will be. The best technique to pulverize and rupture the cell structure of any plant material is to
repeatedly freeze and thaw it over and over again. An example of a plant requiring this
treatment is Phalaris arundinacea, a strong and limber grass. Mimosa hostilis root-bark is
easily pulverized to a fine powder in a blender, releasing a pink haze.
A. First place the grass clippings in the freezer over night.
B. Remove them and place the frozen clippings into a blender. Try and
liquefy the clippings as much as possible while they are frozen.
C. Repeat this process of freezing, thawing, and blending with the plant
material several times for best results.
Ab o ve p ho to c re d it to J im De Ko rne
Mimosa hostilis root-bark
© 20 0 0 Ero wid
Acidify Water to pH 2
Take two pickle jars (about 20 ounces each) and wash them in the dishwasher to help sterilize
and clean them. Label the jars A and B. Fill Jar A 2/3 way full with distilled water (~15 ounces,
or ~500 ml filtered preferable.) Pour 1/2 teaspoon (~2ml) of acid into Jar A . Test the pH of the
water in Jar A . The pH of the water should read 2 If not, add more distilled water to dilute (5%
acidity). There are many sources of acid: (Always add acid into water, not water into acid. Use distilled water to avoid any
A. Distilled white vinegar (5% acidity, ~2 cups, or 500 ml for every 50g
root- bark) or lemon juice.
B. Muratic acid from pool shop (10 ml 30% HCl to 1 liter water is
C. Reagent grade hydrochloric and sulfuric acid (over-poweringly potent
without dilution.)
e le c tro nic p H me te r in jar
Add powdered root-bark to Jar B.
Lab Notes:
Proper method of testing pH with pH papers; Use a glass stirring rod (or something that
won't corrode with acid) to stir the acidic solution. Dab the pH paper with the stirring rod
lightly. To save pH paper, you can cut only a small section of strip for a single test. If a pH
meter or pH papers are unavailable there are certain organic sources that produce
antocyanines which change color with different pH ranges. Red beats or red cabbage may
be used to produce a rough estimate of pH range. This is not always recommended, but it
works. To create the indicator solution, blend or grind either red beats or red cabbage.
Strain off the juice from the pulp and filter out any remaining plant material. If not enough
pigment is found, try extracting more with water from the mushy pulp. If there is too much
pigment, simply dilute solution with water. Indicator solution produced has a short shelf
life but can be stored in a refrigerator for several weeks. Below is a rough pH chart for
reference: (litmus p ap e r c o me s with its o wn p H c hart)
Fig ure 1
Convert Alkaloids to Salts
Using a pipette (or turkey baster) transfer enough acidified water from Jar A into Jar B to cover
the root-bark in the bottom of Jar B (~8 ounces, or 250 ml acidified water into Jar B.) When the
acid reacts with the root-bark, it converts the alkaloids (elf -spice) into salts. To help facilitate
this process we can:
A. Periodically shake the contents of the jar. This helps
more root-bark come in contact with the acid.
B. The weaker the acid, the longer it should be heated
for. Do not allow evaporation of the liquid inside. Do
not boil. Maintain temperature below 50° C or 122° F.
Since we are using pickle jars, and not pyrex, they can
shatter easily if heated or cooled too quickly. It is
recommended using a double boiler with hot (not
boiling) water to warm the solution. To cool, simply
turn off the heat source and allow the solution to
slowly return to room temperature.
When using muratic acid, heat the jar
for 15-30 minutes.
When using weaker acids, simmer the
contents overnight.
Allow the contents of the jar 24 hours to react the first time. The alkaloids (t rypt amines) are
converted into salts and become water soluble. Our elf -spice is now contained in the aqueous
Fig ure 2
Plug the bottom of the funnel with cotton balls or cotton cloth to create a cotton-filter. Pour the
contents of Jar B through the funnel and into Jar C. Squeeze the root-bark contents inside the
filter to press out the remaining juices. Save the root-bark that has been caught by the filter and
place it back into Jar B.
Lab Notes:
Whether filtering material through a cottonfilter or a coffee filter it helps if the thinner
parts of the solution are filtered first, followed
by the mushy and more bulky components
(which may clog the pores of your filters as
you strain.) The better your filtration, the
more rapid and efficient your emulsions, also
resulting in a cleaner product. Cotton must be
specifically used. Other fibers have the
potential to react with our solvents. A tea
strainer (wire strain) can be a simple way to
separate bulk ruffage. Another way to improve
this method is to use a vacuum filter. There
are several varieties, the most affordable being
a tap-water aspirator 'pump' that attaches to
a household faucet and connects to filter. See
Wikipedia: Aspirator . These cost about $30.00
(in 2001) and are very quick, useful and
Fig ure 3
Collect 3 Extractions
Repeat the process outlined in STEPS 2, 3, and 4, two more times.
The initial
extraction is most important. For best results, allow the contents of the jar more time to react
during the remaining two extractions. Shake Jar B, 4 times a day, for 1 week before filtering each
time through a cotton-filter. Collect the acidic contents in Jar C each time. After these initial 3
cotton-filtration cycles, clean Jar A and Jar B, and dispose of remaining root-bark.
After all 3 extraction phases, filter the contents of Jar C again, this time using a paper coffeefilter instead of a cotton filter.
Place several paper-filters (coffee filters) in the
bottom of the funnel.
Strain contents of Jar C through the paper-filters
and into Jar B.
C. When finished, clean Jar C.
Repeat this process as necessary to remove as many of the particulates from
our solution as possible.
Lab Notes:
The majority of the alkaloids we are searching for will convert to salts in the first
extraction phase. The second and third extraction phases take place over a longer period
of time. This will ensure that we will be able to extract as many alkaloids as possible from
our material. The third phase can be reduced to 1-2 days but will not produce the best
yields. Remember, these measurements are all crude estimates.
Fig ure 4
Next we defat the solution. This is part of standard lab procedure whenever extracting alkaloids
of this sort. This process removes the oils, fats, and other unwanted substances from our
aqueous solution and also helps with yields. All DMT salts are insoluble in non-polar solvents -with the exception of DMT acetate -- which is soluble in chlorinated non-polar solvents such as
chloroform and DCM. Thus if you are using white vinegar (acetic acid) as your acid, you will need
to use naptha or ether to defat as chloroform or DCM would extract the DMT acetate along with
the oils and fats, defeating the purpose of this step.When using mimosa hostilis root-bark you
may find this step unnecessary, however, any plant material foliage containing chlorophyl it is
strongly recommended. To do this we add an organic (non-polar) solvent to the acidic solution.
Before using any solvents test a significant amount (~500 ml) of the solvent by evaporating it in a
dish. This will verify that there are no residues or orders left when evaporation is complete
(commonly found in many over-the-counter solvents.) Later in the procedure (STEP 10) you will
be evaporating this solvent to leave a smokable form of DMT. Anything your solvent contributes,
you may be smoking in the final product. Below are listed several more common organic non-polar
Coleman fuel, VM&P naphtha, Zippo, or lighter fluid. Evaporate a small amount in
a dish and inspect the residue if you are unsure of it's contaminants. If used for
the extraction phase instead of the defatting phase, warm naphtha will extract
alkaloids much better than cool naphtha. Naphtha is considered more selective
for catching these alkaloids than DCM. Naphtha rises to the top of the jar.
Methylene Chloride:
Also known as DCM or dichloromethane. Often used as an adhesive solvent for
acrylics. Pure DCM can be found in craft stores. DCM must be distilled first from
all non-flammable paint strippers beforehand (they contain a paste that holds
several unwanted substances.) The paint stripper may also contain methanol
(most marine grade paint strippers are 80-90% DCM.) Methanol is also an organic
solvent. DCM distills at 41° C or 106° F. Pure DCM is best. May cause cancer and
blindness. Take necessary precautions. Methylene chloride sinks to the bottom of
the jar .
Fig ure 5
Contained in engine-starting fluid purchased at automotive stores. To remove
liquid ether from an engine-starting aerosol can, spray the contents of the can
down a 12 inch (~30cm) length of 3/4 inch PVC pipe. The ether will condense on
the sides of the pipe and fall into the jar, while the inert propellant will be released
into the air. Ether is extremely volatile. Ether floats to the top of the jar.
Chloroform (CH2C12) can be purchased over the internet from arts and crafts
warehouses. It has a tendency to be harsh on organics and has a boiling range of
35-65°C (95-149° F). Chloroform sinks to the bottom of the jar.
Nap htha
It is important to remember what type of organic solvent you use. For our defatting process we
will use naphtha.
Add to Jar B ~50-100 ml (~2-3.5 ounces) naphtha. (Only 10-15% the volume of our acidic
solution is enough naphtha for this step. Visualize what 10% of the total of the solution is and
add that amount of naphtha into the jar.) Cap the lid on Jar B and shake the contents vigorously
for 20 minutes. Set Jar B aside and allow for emulsion (foam, bubbles, solutions, particles, etc.)
to separate into two distinct layers (much like oil and water will separate.) This may take ~24
hours (48 in some cases.) The oils and fats will migrate into the non-polar solvent layer leaving
our alkaloids in the aqueous solution. Since we are using naphtha, the solvent layer will rise to
the top of Jar B. Using a pipette (or turkey baster) remove the solvent layer and discard.
Repeat defatting process 2 times.
De fatting p ro c e s s
Lab Notes:
A separatory funnel is very handy for dividing and eliminating layers of solutions. This
device consists of a single chamber with a tapered bottom. On the bottom is a closed
faucet. The container is filled with the two solutions and they are mixed. After mixing, the
apparatus is set aside until both fluids separate into two distinct layers. The lower fraction
of the fluids can be drained via the bottom faucet and into a container for preservation (in
this extraction when using naptha during the defatting process) or to discard (in this
extraction when using naptha during the basification process). A quick separatory funnel
can be made by filling a Ziplock plastic baggie with your mixtures, and hanging it from one
corner. When the layers have separated, the bottom corner of the bag is pinched and then
cut for drainage. It is suggested to test the baggie to make sure your solvents will not melt
Se p e rato ry Funne l in J ar
Prepare to Basify
In this step we will be preparing the solution f or the alkaloids migration using a common organic non-polar solvent. For our solvent we will use
warm naphtha (other solvents are identif ied in ST EP 6.)
Add to Jar B 100 ml (~3 ounces) warm naphtha. Shake the jar f or 5 minutes.
Basify to pH 9
Now we must basify our solution. By doing this we will "unhook" the salt and transform the
alkaloid into its "free base" form. The alkaloids will no longer be a salt, nor will they be soluble in
water. This allows us to extract them with the organic solvent added in STEP 7. Ammonium
hydroxide is normally used, but for our experiment we will be using NaOH found in household lye
crystals (Red Devil drain cleaner) and purchased at hardware stores. Lye is very caustic and can
react violently. Take the proper precautions when using lye.
A good mixture for basifying is 5g (~0.2 ounces) lye mixed with 95g (~3 ounces) distilled water.
The reason we dilute the base is to prevent localized pH spikes which will destroy the alkaloids in
the area that we are adding the concentrated base. Create a basic mixture as follows:
Fill Jar A 95ml (~3 ounces) full with water.
Slowly add 5g (~1 teaspoon) of lye to water. Shake and mix contents thoroughly.
Test to make sure pH is ~12.
Now using a pipette transfer small amounts of solution in Jar A into Jar B.
Stir and check the pH of contents in Jar B after each transfer of lye solution until
the solution in Jar B reaches a pH of ~9-11.
Shake the jar but be careful of pressure that will build up inside the jar. Release
the lid and vent often! The solution will change a gray color as the alkaloids are
turned from acid salts to free base. It may resemble a thick gel. Then the solution
will turn black and slippery as you add more base. The jar will heat up during this
Ap p ro ximate Bas ific atio n Co lo r
Fig ure 6
You have now formed the free base alkaloids that are soluble in non-polar solvents. According
to the Merck Index the pKa (natural pH) of DMT is 8.68 (which would make this the ideal pH to
extract at.) In many experiments the average pH of the final basified solution in STEP 8 was ~10,
which gave satisfactory results everytime.
As these alkaloids dissolve in non-polar solvent added in STEP 7 , an emulsion will form. The
strength of emulsion formed is directly proportional to the strength of stirring. Heavy, rapid
stirring produces a thick emulsion that takes up to 4 days to settle out. Light, slow stirring over a
longer period of time produces and emulsion that separates quickly without affecting the yield.
Let the jar sit overnight until the emulsion has separated into two distinct layers. If emulsion has
not cleared in 48 hours, try the following:
Thick emulsion
A. Sometimes adding a lot of salt and gentle stirring will make the polar
layer more polar and help with emulsions.
B. Add more organic solvent.
C. Filter solutions again through a cotton filter several times. A paper filter
will not work.
D. Test and increase the pH.
E. In most cases the solvent layer will have slight tint or may sometimes
appear completely clear. If you want an early test of your extraction
simply evaporate a small amount in a glass dish. The residue left should
smell a bit synthetic (a smell like plastic.) This smell is a trait of your
The naphtha will create a thick orange/pink emulsion with small bubbles that sometimes takes
over 48 hours to separate. Always wait a few days before trying other methods to break down
the emulsion. Keeping the naphtha warm will increase the amount of alkaloids it carries with it
during each extraction. To help keep the jar warm, place it in a pot surrounded by warm water.
Naphtha floats. If DCM is used for our extraction solvent in STEP 7, we will have a faster
resolving emulsion than naphtha (less than an hour in some cases.) The solvent may turn a
slightly darker color, usually only a tint of reddish-brown or yellow. DCM sinks. Allow a minimum of
Fig ure 7
24 hours for the contents of the jar to react completely. If using methanol allow a minimum of 4
days warmed to room-temperature for reactions to complete.
Fig ure 7
Using a pipette remove the corresponding solvent layer from Jar B and save it in Jar A .
Final Alkaloid Extraction and Evaporation
Repeat STEP 7 and STEP 9 (in that order) 2 times.
Our elf -spice falls from the
basified aqueous solution and into our solvent.
The combined solvent fractions from our solvent extractions should now be in Jar A . Pour
contents of Jar A into a glass baking dish. Allow for the solvent to evaporate. Evaporation may
take up to one week (depending on your solvent.) During this time keep dish with solvent away
from heat or open flame.
The remaining substance may resemble anything from a sticky orangish goo to white or paleorange crystals, depending on how well you followed the procedure. Scrape up this substance
from the baking pan with a razor. About 25 mg is a good starting amount (try about the size of a
pea.) Assuming best yields you could get 5-6 doses (275 mg) from 30g mimosa hostilis root-bark.
You will know when DMT is in the final product by the smell. DMT has a distinct synthetic smell,
almost like some manufactured plastics.
© 20 0 0 Ero wid
"Don't worry about weighing it. Smoke it 'til your high, then save the rest for next time. Remember the flame
should never touch the dmt, just the glass that's holding the dmt. Just heat up the "bulb" and gets to toking. Slow
& steady, deep inhalation, hold the smoke 'til you burst. If nothing after 1st hit, huge toke again, etc. The 3rd toke
will usually be the one."
© 20 0 0 Ero wid
Lab Notes:
After DCM has evaporated your product may contain trace amounts of hydroxide. Some
find hydroxide to be unpleasant in the final product. To help reduce this try washing the
DMT crystals in water, and letting the water evaporate. Water can be added to the solvent
evaporating dish to help carry off hydroxide.
© 20 0 0 Ero wid
Pho to s o f DMT c rys tals take n fro m The Vaults o f
Ero wid
Lab Notes from Previous DMT Extractions
LAB #1
Mat erials
25g mimosa hostilis root-bark
Pool acid
Litmus Papers
Red Devil Lye
Distilled Water
Coffee Filter and Cotton T-Shirt
Plastic Funnel
Pickle Jars
Baking dish and Turkey Baster
Cooking Pot
Lighter Fluid
Day The root-bark is brittle. To powderize it one had to simply place the sticks of dried bark into the blender. They were immediately
1: ground to a fine powder without any trouble, giving off a pink haze when the cover of the blender was released. The powder
was stored in a tupperware container and placed in the back of a freezer.
Day Muratic acid is powerful. Thick gloves were worn along with eye protection. Using a stainless steel teaspoon, about 1-5ml (1
2: teaspoon) of muratic acid was poured into a pickle jar that contained roughly 3/4 filtered water (15 ounces or about 500 ml.) The
pickle jar was previously washed twice in a dishwasher in an attempt to ensure sterility. Under the lid of the pickle jar the
manufacturer had painted on a thin ring of some type of latex or rubber to help seal the jar. The mixture of water and acid do
not seem to affect the ring (it doesn't dissolve or melt the latex in any way) so the jar and its lid were used.
The jar was shook to mix the acid and water. Immediately afterwards the pH of the water was tested. The pH was 1 using pH
papers to measure. (Compare pH within 30 seconds with litmus.)
Added the 25g root-bark to the bottom of jar B. Then the baster was used to pour enough acidified water to just cover the
root-bark. Then jar B was capped and shook vigorously for 10 minutes. While shaking the jar it began to foam up with pink
foam. Then the jar rest for a couple hours. The contents of the jar broke into 3 layers. The top was pink foam. The middle was
a very very dark red (burgundy) color. Light didn't seem to pass through it very well at all. The bottom layer was a lighter red
The dark red color of the top layer of liquid has now turned almost black it seems. No light passes through it.
Day It was decided to heat the solution for several hours in an attempt to speed up the process. The jar and it's contents were
4: propped up on a porcelain stand inside a cooking pot. To this pot was added enough water to surround the pickle jar. The lid to
the pickle jar was made finger tight so that the contents could not evaporate but still allow pressure to escape. For roughly 3
hours the mixture sat in very warm water (not boiling.) Occasionally one would lift the jar, and shake the contents before placing
it back on the stand. Afterwards the heat source was turned off and the water and the pickle jar contents cooled to room
Day A funnel was placed in the empty jar A. Inside the funnel was placed a cotton T-shirt filter. In jar B the root-bark and the solution
5: had formed two layers. This made it easier to sift the smaller particles through the filter before the larger particles clogged the
pores of the filter. After the filter was full of sediment I took the edges of the filter and twisted to squeeze any remaining liquid
into the second jar. The process was repeated until the jar B was empty. Then jar C was filled with roughly 2/3 filtered water, and
was added roughly 5ml of muratic acid. The cotton filters were opened again, and the sediments they held were poured back
into the jar B.
Both jars were capped tightly and checked for leaks again. Needless to say anytime one is working with these chemicals one
should wear thick gloves and the proper eye and body protection.
Acidified water from jar C was siphoned with a turkey baster into jar B until the water covered the sediments. The contents of
the jar were again left to sit in warm water, this time about 30 minutes.
Strained aqueous solution and collected. Added acidic water to remaining plant material. Simmered for 30 minutes.
Day Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown away. Solution was strained 3 times through coffee filters.
Naphtha (Lighter Fuel) was added. About 100 ml. The jar was shaken vigorously for ~10 minutes, resulting in a thick bubbly
solution. This was allowed to rest for 24 hours. After 24 hours the top layer resembles water with a few drops of milk added.
There is also a layer of translucent pink scum. This this is the nasty stuff we want to get rid of.
To remove the naphtha layer (top layer) it was agreed that it would be best to siphon the bottom layer out of the jar and save it,
instead, then clean out the jar containing the remaining nasty naphtha stuff. Using a plastic turkey baster we slowly squeezed
the bulb as it passed through the layers into the jar. This forced small bubbles to pour from the nozzle, and prevented any
naphtha from entering the baster before we could suck up the bottom layer.
After removing the naphtha, the remaining contents were again filtered once through a paper coffee filter.
Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
Day A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an empty jar.. About 100 ml water for 1 teaspoon (5ml?) lye crystals.
10: The jar was shaken, and stirred and made sure all the lye crystals had dissolved. This was added slowly to the jar containing our
main solution.
After 4 teaspoons of base solution, the mixture changed from a burgundy red to a very grayish blue color. The pH was tested
and found to be 7.
After 8 teaspoons of base solution the mixture has turned a darker gray color. The pH tested was ~10.
After 10 teaspoons of base solution the mixture changed from gray to very inky black. There is a lot of foam. The pH tested
was found to be ~11-12.
A total of 10 teaspoons were added to this mixture before the pH was ~11. The jar was shaken for several minutes with the cap
tightly sealed. Then the jar was placed in a pot of warm water for 15 minutes while slowly stirred. Then the jar was allowed to
rest for 3 hours inside the warm water.
Solution has not separated into two layers. The naphtha layer on top still resembles a thick oily foam.
Solution has not separated into two layers. Markings were made on the side of the jar to see if any progress had been made.
Nothing changed in the jar within the last 48 hours. More solvent was added.
No change in solutions. About 1 teaspoon of salt was added to the mixture and stirred gently for 30 minutes.
No change in solutions. The pH was taken of the aqueous solution. Because of the dark color of the material being tested it's
hard to get an accurate measurement. A small sample was taken and lightly diluted with water. The pH was about 9 or 10.
Another mixture of lye and water was made in a separate jar. About 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of base solution was added to the
mixture in jar B. The pH was tested again and read about 11 or 12. There seemed to be an immediate change in the emulsion. A
clear layer appeared on top of the jar, followed by the familiar thick orange bubbles, and then finally the aqueous solution on the
bottom. The container was steeped in warm water for 1 hour.
After 1 hour the contents were strained 3 times through a cotton-filter and the emulsions were allowed to separate. There was
a dramatic improvement after filtration. The top layer of naphtha was removed and saved. Another 100 ml naphtha was added
and the jar was heated again for perhaps another hour. The best technique to mixing the two solutions does not seem to be
shaking or stirring. Instead, very slowly tip the jar end over end repeatedly for several minutes. This produces an emulsion that
settles in about 2-3 hours time.
Day The contents of the jar were heated and mixed slowly for a period of 2 hours. Afterwards the top layer was saved and another
15: 100 ml naphtha was added. Again the jar was heated and stirred for a few hours. The solvent layer was removed and placed
with the rest of the previous solvent fractions.
The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking dish and set aside for evaporation.
3 day evaporation process. Bottom of dish there appears small yellow/orange crystal formations, circular in pattern, about 2173mm across.
Some of the outer edges of the crystals have dried a bit. The larger crystals still seem wet.
Day The entire dish was scraped with a razor. The crystals bunched together and dissolved into a caramel gum like substance. This
22: substance was smeared across a 3X5 note card.
The brownish goo has dried up and reveals a more crystalline structure. This was scrapped off using an exacto knife.
Elf-spice hyperspace. The experiment was a success.
LAB #2
Mat erials
25g Phalaris arundinacea (rather dry, note this grass contains 5-MeO alkaloids as well)
Pool acid
Litmus Papers
Red Devil Lye
Lighter Fluid
Cotton Balls
Plastic Funnel
Pickle Jars
Baking dish, turkey baster, cooking pot
Day Phalaris grass is very hard to pulverize. The grass was placed in a freezer and then into a blender. To help mash the grass down
towards the blades of the blender, a small amount of water was added. Repeatedly the lid to the blender was lifted and the
grass had to be pushed back down. It took over an hour to pulverize the grass sufficiently. The mixture of water and clippings
was placed into a baggie. The baggie was frozen and thawed several times over a period of 24 hours.
Day 5ml muratic acid added to a pickle jar that contained roughly 500 ml water. Water and acid were mixed well. 25g of grass was
3: placed in the bottom of jar B and the acidified water covered this amount of grass. Shook the jar and contents.
4- Jar contents are shaken daily.
Day A funnel was placed in jar A. Inside the funnel was placed a cotton ball. The material from jar B was filtered through the funnel
12: into jar A. The remaining material in the filter was placed back into jar B and covered again with acidified water. Jar B contents
are shaken daily for 7 days.
Collection of aqueous solution same as Day 12.
Day Final collection of aqueous solution. Plant material was thrown away. Solution was strained 3 times through coffee filters.
100 ml Naphtha added. The jar was shaken 10 minutes. This was allowed to rest for 24 hours. After 24 hours the nasty stuff
was skimmed off the top along with the naphtha solvent. This was done twice.
Added 100 ml of naphtha again, and shook the jar for 5 minutes.
Day A 5% base solution was made with lye crystals and water in an empty jar. This was added slowly to the jar containing our main
28: solution. The pH was now ~11. The jar was slowly stirred for several hours while heated.
After the emulsion had cleared the top layer of naphtha was collected and more naphtha added to the original mixture. This was
29done 3 times.
Day The combined solvent fractions were poured into a glass baking dish and set aside for evaporation. After 4 days the dish was
39: scraped clean and the crystals put to use. Success!
LAB #3
Mat erials
45g Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark
Muriatic Acid
Litmus Papers
Ronsonal Lighter Fluid
Cotton Filter
7. Separatory Funnel
8. Pyrex Dish and Stove
Day 1:
Day 2:
Day 60:
Day 61:
Ingrediants were cut with scissors and places in coffee grinder for pulverizing. The contents were then placed in pyrex dish
with cover. Dish was placed on gas stove and allowed to boil. After boil was achieved the stove was turned off.
Periodically the stove was turned on to apply heat to the dish. After 20 minutes the biomass was strained. Placed
biomass back into the dish and repeated twice..
Added Ronsonal lighter fluid about equal to existing volume, covered jar and shook. Result was massive emulsion. Let sit
for two months.. A muddly silt formed on the bottom of the jar. I'm guessing it's from not filtering finely enough.
Separated bottom liquid layer using 1 L sep funnel into a clean jar, and discarded top layer. (Thought I'd try de-fatting once.
It doesn't seem worth it with MHRB. Probably won't do it in the future.)
I previously prepared a mixture of Red Devil Lye and distilled water. It takes a while to fully dissolve the pellets. Again added
about the same amount of naptha as I had liquid, and then added basic solution while stirring to a pH of 11.6. While
shaking, I noticed it forming a vacuum, and periodically vented. I'm not sure of the mechanism there. I let it settle, then
separated, saving the bottom layer for 2nd and third extractions, and top layer for drying. Drying Tip: get a 4 inch fan, and
lay it on top of the pyrex dish, and it will dry overnight
T he Vaults of Erowid:
Perhaps the best collection of inf ormation on the internet about chemicals and plants f or anyone new to drugs. Within this document I have
reprinted several smaller pictures f ound f rom their website. Although I asked permission, I was never sent a response, but here I credit their
wonderf ul database and used the pictures anyway.
Color photo of a large ultrapure DMT crystal, grown in 1996. T he crystal is approximately 1 inch across.
Anonymous Photographer. Used by Erowid.
Color photo of a pile of DMT crystals extracted with Naptha.
Photo by Bucwheat. © 2000 Erowid.
Color photo of a small vial f ull of N,N-DMT crystals.
Anonymous Photographer. © 2000 Erowid.
Color photo of a collection of rootbark pieces layed out on a plate.
Photo by Murple. © 2000 Erowid.
Psychedelic Shamanism T he Cultivation, Preparation and Shamanic Use of Psychotropic Plants.
DeKorne, Jim. (1994)
Publisher : Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN : 1-55950-110-3
Color photo of grass growing outdoors. (Pictured as f ound on Erowid.)
Rhodium - an informative element: Rhodium
A collection of highly technical inf ormation. I humble myself bef ore the knowlege they posess.
Ayahuasca Analogues: Pangaen Entheogens.
Ott, Jonathan. (1994).
Kennewick, WA: Natural Products.
ISBN: 0-9614234-5-5
Tryptamines I Have Known And Loved: T he Chemistry Continues.
By Alexander and Ann Shulgin.
(Part 2)
Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences.
Vol. 56, page 1526.
T hanks to:
Dr. Foss
Jack Tripper
And all those who have helped expand and add to this piece of literature. I am in debt to all those within the beautif ul community who have helped
create this f ine guide. Feel f ree to add to this your own written observations, dreams, or thoughts on these topics.
Revision History
v1.1 - Quantum Tantra
v1.1.1 - Sep 19 2009 - Erowid - removed confusing text on alkaloid % s table.
v1.1.2 - Jan 7 2011 - Erowid - Added the term 'aspirator' to the mention of the simple vacuum filter in Step 4 as a clarification after receiving a question.
v1.1.3 - Feb 4 2011 - Erowid & the community at The DMT Nexus - Added " Note of Warning" including a detailed critique of this tek from the folks at The DMT Nexus.
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