10 Look Years Younger: Anti-Aging Makeup Tips From The Experts Top 4 Designer Skin Creams 9 High-Tech Skin Solutions 9 Best Doctor Skincare Lines The Art of Age Defiance Skincare for your 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s & Beyond Your skin type cheat-sheet by skin guru Leslie Baumann, MD Update your arsenal with the hottest treatments and products that fight your cellulite. New You Magazine’s Ultimate Anti-Aging Guide: The Skin Issue Welcome to NEW YOU magazine, the quarterly consumer magazine about the future of beauty and anti-aging. NEW YOU is the premier national publication focusing on the world of beauty, cosmetic enhancement and anti-aging medicine—covering cutting-edge products and procedures that restore the look and energy of youth. To find out more about your magazine, visit us at www.newyoumag.com Whether you’re in your 20s or your 50s, there are measures you can take to slow (or even turn back) the clock, and infuse your skin with a youthful glow. Here we’ll help you discover the skin care products and technologies that are most important and effective when it comes to battling common skin issues like brown spots, sagging skin, loss of volume, deepening wrinkles, cellulite and more. Next time you’re at the drugstore or cosmetic counter, you can put this newfound knowledge to use to find a skin care treatment that addresses your main concerns -- and makes your skin look gorgeous. Anti-Aging Makeup Tips The 10-Minute Brow Lift Grooming: Step 1. First brush brows upward with a course brow grooming brush. Pluck all stray, long and unordinary hairs, then brush brows towards temples and pluck any stray hairs on the brow bone that are not part of the shape of your brows. Tip: When shaping your brows, it’s best to have the brow sloping gently away (above the brow bone), continuing in a line just beyond the outer corner, it lifts the entire eye. If you’ve never had your brows shaped, its best to have it shaped professionally by a brow specialist before applying the brow lift. Application: Step 2. Starting with an angled eyebrow brush, apply eye shadow powder that is closest to your brow hair color, following the natural shape and filling in the brows. For blondes use a taupe color, red heads use an auburn color, brown hair color use a light brown color, and brunettes use a medium brown to dark brown color depending on skin tone. Step 3. Next, using a flat eyeliner brush apply a concealer one or two shades lighter than your foundation and yellow in tone to the brow bone and outlining your entire brow. Step 4. After you have outlined your entire brow, blend the concealer into your skin with the flat eyeliner brush (blending the concealer up above the brow and down below the brow all the way to the crease serving as a natural brow highlight), then finish blending using your index finger by tapping concealer into skin. Lastly, take the angled eye shadow and outline brow over concealer. Result: Perfectly shaped, highlighted, and lifted brows is the end result! note: The brow lift is applied prior to applying eye shadow and defining eyes. The shape of your eyes, how they are set, and size of your eyelids all influence the way you should makeup your eyes for the most flattering effect. Understanding a few basic principles will help you to make the most of your eye. A Flawless Foundation 1) Prep Your Skin Foundation adheres best to skin that is cleansed, moisturized, and/ or primed—which means you must take care of your skin with regular exfoliation, daily moisturizing and daily cleansing. I also recommend that you get a professional facial, if not every month, every other month. Doing so will ensure not only a flawless foundation application, but amazing anti-aging benefits that will mean fewer blemishes and less blotchiness to conceal. Use cleansing and moisturizing products with anti-aging ingredients, drink plenty of water and maintain a healthy diet. Note: Even the best foundation and/or concealer will not achieve the desired result if your skin is not properly prepped. 2) Choose the Right Color Foundation This is where many make the biggest mistake. You want to choose a shade that perfectly matches your skin tone, not a shade lighter or darker. Next time you are at your local makeup atelier, choose three shades closest to your skin tone to sample, then take a disposable makeup sponge and swatch all three on the side of your face from cheek bone to jaw line—side by side—not on your hand, neck, or forehead. The color that disappears against your skin tone is the perfect shade for you. Note: Always color match in natural daylight, never in direct sunlight or under fluorescent light. 3) Opt for the Best Formula to Match Your Skin Type Everyone has a different skin texture, and it’s imperative you use the right consistency of foundation for yours, since each will work differently. If you have dry skin, use Chanel’s Vitalumiere Moisture Rich Radiance Fluid Makeup SPF 15 ($55, www.chanel.com). The formula has moisutrizing ingredients that target dry, dull and uneven skin. For oily skin, use LORAC Breakthrough Performance Foundation SPF 14 ($38, www.loraccosmetics. com). It’s an oil-free anti-aging foundation with SMS complex to help stimulate collagen and rejuvenate the skin’s structure. If you’re looking to cover up fine lines, use Alima Pure Satin Matte Mineral Foundation ($22, www. alimapure.com). It evens out skin tone, enhances complexion and reduces the appearance of fine lines and pores. For full coverage, use DEX New York Mineral Retouch ($50, www.dexnewyork.com). It’s a creamy, highly pigmented waterproof concealer/foundation with medical-grade coverage to camouflage all imperfections. 4) Apply the Foundation Apply only where needed, usually the center of your face, then blend out toward the forehead, chin and cheeks with a sponge applicator to even skin tone. A common mistake is not blending makeup evenly. So blend, blend, blend. Next, conceal any blemishes (and your under eye area) with a creamy concealer one shade lighter than your natural skin tone (fair to light skin tones use a concealer with a yellow undertone, and medium to dark skin tones use a concealer with a peach undertone). Use a sponge to stipple and blend concealer with your skin tone foundation. If you have oily skin, set lightly with a finishing powder. If not, just leave it dewey and fresh. Don’t pack on large amounts of powder over the concealer—that only ages you. The main goal: Your makeup should look like skin. 5) Use the Right Tools There are many different tools used to apply foundation, but best results are achieved by using three of my ultimate favorites: Trish McEvoy’s Large Laydown Brush, made with luxurious sable hair ($53, www.trishmcevoy. com), is best used for applying cream foundation products. A makeup sponge applicator by Beauty Blender ($19.95, www.beautyblender.net) easily blends creamy foundation and/or concealer products. And the Botan Brush from NARS’ Kabuki Brush collection ($75, narscosmetics.com) applies loose and pressed powdered foundation and finishing powder products. Tools of the Trade: Beauty Blender Makeup Sponge NARS Kabuki Botan Brush Trish McEvoy Large Laydown Brush Age Proof Your Lips Elegant, full, healthy looking lips are a sign of youth and beauty. Unfortunately, they are also one of the first features to reveal age. Celebrity makeup artist Brigitte Reiss-Andersen, who works with Michelle Pfeiffer and Carrie Underwood, offers tips on how to keep your pucker looking plump. “To minimize fine lines, first use a primer around your mouth,” she says. Then be sure to choose the right shade of lip color that can create an illusion of fullness. “Sorbet colors such as melon, strawberry and tangerine will add a needed pop of color to the face,” says Reiss-Anderson. “Stay away from dark colors which will only make lips look thinner.” Finally, she suggests choosing a long-lasting pencil that perfectly matches the shade of your lip color. “By exaggerating the contour slightly, you can make lips look a bit more robust. Just be sure to use the liner after your lipstick so that you don’t go too far!” Designer Skin Fashion’s biggest names are getting into what’s underneath their clothes... Fashion houses have long dabbled in the beauty business. Traditionally, a big name design house will launch a fragrance to complement their collections. Now a growing crop of designers are putting skin into the beauty game by creating namesake skincare lines. Chanel, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent are pioneers in this area, but newcomers such as Tom Ford and Burberry are following suit. For most fashion houses, beauty is the next logical step for the brand. “I really started thinking about Burberry makeup when we were working on the show several years ago,” explains Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey. “I was looking at all the different ways the Burberry girl expressed herself and it was the only element missing when you circled her world and her attitude.” Lest you think that a beauty skincare line is merely an afterthought for a designer, YSL and Dior have put major muscle behind their new launches. YSL has been doing research in the field of glycobiology for their new Forever Youth line for almost 30 years. “For the first time, this new science is being applied to cosmetics, thanks to the work carried out by the YSL skin science committee,” says Anthony Potin of L’Oreal’s research and innovation team. YSL is now “fully dedicated to… assembling the top researchers in medical glycobiology, with skin experts, biologists, chemists and dermatologists,” he says. Dior’s new L’Or de Vie line is built on antioxidants they discovered at the famed Chateua Yquem vineyard. “We have identified an unexpected and revolutionary ingredient—an incredible anti-aging molecule capable of reversing the skin aging process,” says Eric Perrier, director of research and development at Dior. More designers are sure to follow, including a recently announced deal inked between Tory Burch and Estee Lauder. While some fashion trends may come and go, flawless skin will always be in style. Tom Ford The story: When the former head designer at Gucci launched his own label, he made sure to hold onto the overtly sexy aesthetic that made him a huge star. Ford’s foray into beauty began with a glamorous lipstick collection. Tom Ford Beauty now consists of a full range of makeup as well as some serious skincare. At the heart of the skincare line are the Tom Ford Purifying Complex and Infusing Complex; both energize and detoxify the skin with a combination of natural and high-tech ingredients. The range covers everything from rich crème cleanser to luxuriously whipped moisturizer. Hero product: The Tom Ford Intensive Infusion Concentrate Extreme, an oil-based serum meant to be used under your moisturizer, is the concentrated form of Ford’s proprietary Infusing Complex. It left our skin looking dewy, radiant and smooth. Price: $250 Where to buy: Bergdorf Goodman Burberry The story: This iconic British brand, best known for its sharp trench coats, launched a beauty line to complete the innocent English rose look. All of the formulations are light and easy, meant to give women an effortless beauty. Hero product: Burberry’s Fresh Glow is a hybrid skincare/makeup product that moisturizes with wild rose extract and enhances the skin with a fresh golden shimmer. It can be mixed with foundation to give the skin a major dose of luminescence. We loved how it looked on bare skin, as a glowing alternative to makeup. Price: $48 Where to buy: Saks Fifth Avenue Dior The story: The French fashion house has a long history of exceptional beauty products. Their popular Capture Totale line, which uses stem cells to regenerate aging skin, has been a pioneer in the anti-aging category for many years. Their new L’Or de Vie line, a collaboration with the legendary Chateau d’Yquem, features 11 active molecules derived from the Yquem vine. The newest molecule is Miyabenol C, which reverses skin’s aging process. Hero product: La Crème Face & Neck Custom is a luxury skincare shopper’s dream. Your “skincare measurements” are taken at the Dior counter and sent to the lab in France, whereupon a one-of-akind formulation is made up and sent in an engraved Dior skincare couture creation. Price: $600 Where to buy: Saks Fifth Avenue YSL The story: With a rich background in skincare, YSL breaks new ground with their debut of Forever Youth, an anti-aging line based on discoveries in glycobiology. Glycans, which are found naturally on the surface of cells, act like keys, locking onto receptors of nearby cells to trigger metabolic reactions including the growth and renewal of younger looking skin. With Glycanactif, their new age-defying complex, YSL appeals to the beauty addict and the science geek. Along with the help of their SkinScience committee, YSL has discovered a way to re-establish cellular communication between glycans and the cells needed to carry out youth-building processes. Hero product: Forever Youth Liberator Serum contains the highest concentration of Glycanactif, which contains glycans to help regenerate the skin while promoting thickening of the epidermis. One dose leaves the skin more radiant and relaxed, while after one month, skin is completely resculpted and plumped (in a really good way). Price: $200 Where to buy: www.yslbeautyus.com “Like life and luck, cellulite isn’t always fair.” The Anti-Cellulite Lifestyle: Like life and luck, cellulite isn’t always fair. Some women have less than others. Some have lots more. Your chance of sporting a dimpled derriere partially boils down to genetics—so you can thank mom not only for your beautiful eyes and curly hair, but also your bumpy butt. “Genetics influences the way the subcutaneous fat is deposited, and other factors also come into play such as metabolism and circula- tion,” says Georgia-based cosmetic surgeon Dr. Michael Carter. “After age 30, our bodies change, and stress increases fat storage.” So if you got it, you got it, and there’s no real “cure.” But you can reduce cellulite and minimize its appearance with a healthy, active lifestyle: • Cut out empty carbs: White bread, rice, cookies and other refined carbohydrates increase total body fat content, thereby worsening cellulite • Get off your duff: A sedentary lifestyle or prolonged sitting alters circulation to cellulite-prone areas. • Stop smoking: Not only does it wrinkle your skin, but it impairs circulation, too. • Avoid alcohol: It increases your body’s toxic load. Slash sodium: It increases fluid retention. High-Tech Beauty The future looks bright—especially with these new products that will bring your beauty regimen into the 21st century. From microcurrent impulses to enzymes that mimic viper venom, these science-driven creams and gadgets address age-old beauty challenges with futuristic solutions—and offer you an alternative when you can’t make it to the dermatologist’s office. Incorporate them into a spa-like moment and you’ll get the best of both worlds. Cool Down Utilizing a specially contoured, cooling ceramic-tip applicator, this treatment massages and re-energizes tired, puffy eyes. In addition, a correcting complex helps reduce dark circles. It’s offered in two shades: light or medium. Estee Lauder New Idealist Cooling Eye Illuminator; $58; available at Bloomingdale’s. What A Snake An exclusive complex that mimics the paralyzing protein in viper venom (to give that wrinkle smoothing result), this cream is an at-home alternative to the injectibles at your dermatologist’s office. Immunocologie Treatment Creme VenoMAX; $275; available at shop.immunocologie.com. See The Light This at-home skin solution treats wrinkles with LED Light Therapy, recognized as one of the fastest and safest ways to achieve younger looking skin. Recommended by dermatologists and plastic surgeons for more than a decade. LightStim; $299; available at Macy’s Eye Spy This eye cream is formulated with “Peptide P-199,” a technology that treats all signs of aging around eyes. By reactivating dormant stem cells, it enhances skin tissue and cellular regeneration for a younger looking you. Kate Somerville CytoCell Dark Circle Corrective Eye Cream; $75; available at katesomerville.com. Eye of the Beholder This eye renewal system reduces wrinkles by pairing topical treatments with an advanced ion-based technology. Designed for the wrinkle-prone area around the peepers, it targets crow’s feet and fine lines. WrinkleMD by University Medical Professional Eye Renewal System; $179; available at qvc.com. Electric Toner As the first FDA-approved at-home device of its kind, this handheld tool emits electrical microcurrents to help tone and lift facial muscles. Endorsed by none other than the cutting- edge California Health and Longevity Institute. NuFace; $325; available at mynuface.com. Plump Up Modeled after medical techniques like hyaluronic injections, this moisturizer contains the same exact acid but in a low molecular weight. The result is super hydrated skin without a needle in sight. Orlane Paris Super-Moisturizing Light Cream; $165; available at Neiman Marcus. Day Dreamer This day cream is part of a line that’s formulated with GenActive technology, the latest in gene science. Clinically proven to help skin recover from aggressors, repair gene expression and make skin look more luminous and hydrated. L’Oreal Paris Youth Code Day Lotion SPF 30; $24.99; available at drugstores nationwide. Lightening Rod This sleek little pen delivers a “melatreatment” complex to lighten spots, acne scars and blemishes without a bleaching agent in sight. This means it can be used on all skin tones—a true beauty breakthrough. AmorePacific Age Spot Brightening Pen; $140; available at Neiman Marcus. And The Prescription Is... Cutting-edge skin care lines from dermatologists and plastic surgeons are now an industry staple, delivering officeworthy results right in your own home. Here’s a roundup of the best in the business. Doctors regularly dole out advice to patients in their plush offices, but we all benefit when they bottle their signature skin treatments. One growing trend among these pros? Skincare by diet. The majority of them see it as a key component for great skin. Combine that with high-tech delivery systems and breakthrough ingredients designed to smooth, firm, and lift and you can’t help but put your best face forward. AYUR-MEDIC Celeb fans: Deepak Chopra, Whitney Port, Will Smith Who: The dynamic duo of dermatologist Ezra Kest, M.D., and plastic surgeon Raj Kanodia, M.D.—rumored to have improved some of Hollywood’s most high-profile noses. What: Ayurvedic philosophy (some products boast antioxidant spices like turmeric and emblica) meets a “Medic” approach with formulations that work intra-dermally. Says Kanodia: “Many retinols sit on top of the skin and irritate; ours is micronized to gently penetrate and polish. Apply it twice a week after using the Papaya Enzyme Peel and you’ll no longer need facials.” Best-sellers: Collagen 111, an anti-aging serum that uses a compound called ASC3 to stimulate production of the pillow-y type of collagen that makes baby skin so springy. Lip Enhancer, a must for full lips without the scalpel. It contains peptides for long-term volumizing, and niacin to make lips immediately plump and rosy by increasing blood flow. Hot New Product: 24 Hour Moisture Serum. It offers timerelease moisture for the 35+ crowd with rejuvenating apple stem cells and açai oil. Where: Select doctors’ offices; Skin-Ology, Los Angeles, CA; Beautiful You Center for Healing Arts, Southhampton, NY; www.ayurmedic.com. LANCER SKINCARE Celeb fans: Oprah, Beyoncé, Denise Richards Who: Harold Lancer, M.D., creator of the Lancer Method, which puts a spin on the typical tradition of wash then scrub. His protocol of exfoliation fi rst and cleansing second (which he employs at his chic new digs on Rodeo Drive) offers a deeper clean that preps skin to drink in essential nutrients, he explains. Former medical director of Epicuren, he was also one of the brains behind the popular Epicuren Skincare Line. What: Clinical grade products rooted in Lancer’s philosophy of postponing surgical intervention for as long as you can. “A youthful face is an inverted triangle but the triangle flips around 35 and the lower face begins to get fuller,” he says. “The good news is that you can maintain a lifted look if you make a commitment to great dermatological skincare.” Best-sellers: Natural Sea Mineral Polish, made with 40-micron Dead Sea sand crystals that are carefully engineered to buff the skin uniformly—with no risk of tearing. Hot New Product: Stay tuned for a topical pore-reducing gel for rosacea-prone skin. Free of dimethicone and alcohol, it’s crafted to absorb oil like a sponge without drying. Where: Nordstrom; www.20yearsyounger.com; www.lancerdermatology.com. COLBERT MD Celeb fans: Angelina Jolie, Michelle Williams, Kate Middleton, Rachel Weisz Who: David Colbert, M.D., author of “The High School Reunion Diet,” former Chanel dermatology consultant and current backstage skin guru for Victoria’s Secret fashion shows. The busy doc also volunteered in Haiti after last year’s earthquake. What: Colbert believes in the healing power of plants for beautiful skin and his tightly edited collection boasts some of the best, from gotu kola to Tibetan goji berry. “For the healthiest-looking complexion, try to go natural with your foods, too. Nothing in a box,” he says. “If it doesn’t grow from a tree or the ground, don’t eat it.” One helpful tip for sweets lovers: Sub agave for sugar. The white stuff causes loss of elasticity within skin. Best-sellers: His “addictive” exfoliating Facial Discs. Victoria’s Secret makeup artists use them on models’ skin pre-show to enhance their glow. Heal & Soothe night cream—the African shea nut butter and angelica provide major moisture. Hot New Product: Nourish Eye Cream. It fi ghts stubborn dark circles by getting to the root of the problem (agerelated pigmentation) with brightening ascorbyl glucoside. Where: Barneys New York nationwide; Louis Boston, Boston, MA. DR. MACRENE SKIN RESULTS Celeb fans: Manhattan movers and shakers, actresses, models Who: Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, M.D., PH.D, author of more than 40 research papers in journals like Archives of Dermatology. Dr. Alexiades graduated from Harvard with a Bachelor’s of Arts, a medical degree and a Ph.D in Genetics. She is licensed to practice in both the U.S. and Europe and has consulted for L’Oreal for three years. What: Two unique skin care creams for all that ails you. Alexiades-Armenakas does the hard work—mastering the alchemy of a high-powered 37+ ingredient blend—so you can simplify your routine and still end up radiant. Unlike so many highly preserved products that can lose effectiveness when shelved in warehouses, hers are tested and proven 100% active for over 6 months after opening. Yet another bonus: They’re free of parabens, fragrance, propylene glycol and petrolatum. Best-sellers: 37 Extreme Actives. The original cream packs the punch of firming peptides, redness-reducing yerba mate tea and skin-thickening barley extract (a natural growth factor), to name just a few. All are microencapsulated to get deep into cells and each jar has the chic little treat of a mother of pearl spatula. Hot New Product: 37 Extreme Actives EXTRA RICH. It has more emollients (ideal for mature skin) and additional potency from DNA repairing plankton, freckle-fading glucosamine and cacao extract. Yes, that chocolate bar ingredient is anti-aging. Where: Exclusive to Neiman Marcus, nationwide; www.drmacrene.com. JESSICA WU COSMECEUTICALS Celeb fans: Hollywood power players—on the big screen and behind the scenes. Who: Jessica Wu, M.D., author of the new book “Feed Your Face,” and a principal investigator in studies that helped the FDA approve Juvéderm and Latisse. What: Six core products that marry eastern tradition (Chinese botanicals) and western science (pharmaceutical ingredients). The acne Wu suffered as a child helped inspire her. “In my book, I highlight foods you don’t normally expect to cause breakouts— like milk. Natural cow hormones can over-stimulate your own androgenic hormones resulting in eruptions,” she explains. “If you make dietary changes you often see results in seven days.” Best-sellers: White Peony Eye Contour. It fades fine lines with free-radical-fighting superoxide dismutase and depuffs with this delicate flower extract, which is used medicinally in China’s Fujian Province. Dew Cream, a favorite of sensitive types and perfect for those who’ve undergone laser treatments—thanks to scutellaria, an anti-inflammatory, and hydrating hyaluronic acid. Hot New Product: Heel, Elbow & Cuticle Cream (hitting shelves soon) with 40% glycolic acid. According to Wu, it peels dry areas for baby softness in three to four days. Where: Clyde’s Chemists, Madison Avenue, NY; Skinterra, Scottsdale, AZ; www.drjessicawu.com. EPIONCE BY DR. THORNFELDT Celeb fans: West Coast and Rocky Mountain Midwest professional elite. Who: Carl R. Thornfeldt, the President and CEO of Episciences, Inc., whose Epionce line is based on 25 years of skin research that linked the effects of two damaging biological processes: Chronic inflammation and disruption of the skin’s natural protective barrier. What: Epionce optimizes the skin’s natural repair system with a blend of active botanical ingredients and a novel delivery system. “My goal with skin care has always been to try and help improve the quality of life for my patients suffering from skin conditions and diseases,” Dr. Thornfeldt says. “I have found that repairing the skin barrier and blocking chronic inflammation has had the most profound effect on aging and skin health in my patients.” Best-sellers: The Epionce Renewal Facial Products (Cream, Lotion and Lite Lotion) and the Lytic Gel Cleanser. The Renewal products help hydrate your skin while protecting, preventing and repairing the barrier against environmental effects behind chronic inflammation. The Lytic Gel’s formula removes oils, harmful microbes and dead skin. Hot New Product: The Lytic Sport Tx and the Melano Corrective System (MelanoLyte Tx and MelanoLyte PRO). The former treats skin imperfections; it’s lightweight formula treats oily skin by removing blackheads, whiteheads, pustules and inflamed blemishes. The Melano Corrective System addresses the complex issue of irregular pigmentation. Where: Available at www.epionce.com. NEW YOUTH COSMECEUTICALS Celeb fans: Southern high society, southern elite, celebrity faces from the South. Who: Ronald Finger, M.D., board-certified plastic surgeon, antiaging expert and author of “Why Grow Old,” consistently rated one of the top plastic surgeons in the South. What: New Youth was one of the first plastic surgeon-pioneered cosmeceutical lines, and one of the first to incorporate a blend of anti-inflammatory, anti-glycation ingredients and whole food nutrients to repair skin at the cellular level. “For years, I’ve been talking about two of the root causes of aging – inflammation and glycation,” says Dr. Finger. “This line is the result of my quest to find products that worked, but didn’t inflame the skin of my patients.” Best-sellers: The Anti-Inflammatory Cream. Contains a proprietary combo of anti- inflammatory, anti-glycation, whole food ingredients and vitamins, such as cat’s claw, Russian black tea, and marine algae extract, among others. Designed to reduce spots, freckles and fine lines in a two-week cycle that restores smoothness and elasticity. Hot New Product: Wrinkle Delete, formulated to diminish deep lines normally treated with Botox without leaving white residue or an unnatural tightness. Where: New Youth Medical Spa; other high-end spas; www.NewYouthSkincare.com. DR. BRANDT Celeb fans: Madonna, Kelly Ripa, Joy Behar Who: Frederic Brandt, M.D., sought-after industry researcher, lecturer and author of “10 Minutes, 10 Years: Your Definitive Guide to a Beautiful and Youthful Appearance.” What: A broad range of targeted solutions for every skin problem, which Brandt cleverly categorized into different collections—from Blemishes No More to Time Arrest. His authoritative approach is culled from years of study and patient feedback between two bustling practices in Miami and Manhattan, where he often sees over 40 patients a day. Best-seller: Dark Circles Away. Sleep-deprived fans already love this collagen eye serum, which launched earlier this year. Part of the appeal? The cold roller-ball applicator. It helps vasoconstrict the puffiness out of undereye bags. Plant extracts and amino acids also go to work strengthening the delicate area by rebuilding collagen and elastin fibers. Hot New Product: Pores No More Hint of Tint. Fittingly created for those with oversized pores, the sheer, light-diffusing color won’t sink into your skin and cause more clogging. It wicks away shine with flaxseed and purifies skin with antibacterial tea tree oil. Where: Exclusive to Sephora stores, nationwide; www.drbrandtskincare.com. PERRICONE MD Celeb fans: Eva Mendes, Kate Hudson, Analeigh Tipton. Who: Nicholas V. Perricone, author of seven books including the new Forever Young, and the derm who gets a gold star for introducing us all to the importance of an anti-inflammatory diet. What: Science-driven products designed to fight inflammation by delivering the key antioxidants, amino acids, and vitamins that Perricone touts in food. “Glutathione is the body’s chief age-defense antioxidant but we produce less with age. Our cream delivers it topically and next I’m hoping to create a supplement that replenishes it orally,” he says. Best-sellers: The new Acyl-Glutathione—already a cult hit after clinicals showed it improved nasolabial folds in 30 days. How? Perricone describes it as the anti-Botox, increasing en- ergy in the cells for more effective repair—right down to skin’s structural fibroblasts. Try it if you’re 30+ or burning the candle at both ends. No Sun Tanner, another fave, provides gradual, never-orange color and tightens the skin with DMAE. Hot New Product: The brand’s first Hypoallergenic Collection, formulated for sensitive skins that are highly reactive. Where: Perricone MD Flagship on Madison Avenue; Nordstrom; Sephora; Neiman Marcus. Your Skin Type Cheat-Sheet We’re all unique, and so is our skin. Both in the way it looks and the way it reacts to active ingredients. By understanding your ethnic skin type, you’ll learn the right ingredients to use, in the right amounts. If you’ve ever wondered what your skin type is, you’re in the majority. It can be tricky to decipher on your own, but none- theless critical for effective skin care— which is why Miami dermatologist and best-selling author Leslie Baumann made it her mission to help by designing a comprehensive skin-type test. “I was inspired by the Myers Brigg personality test, because there are so many skin personalities and one regimen just doesn’t work for all,” says the author of The Skin Type Solution. “Someone with thick, oily, acne-prone skin can benefit from stronger products than someone with a thin, fragile, sensitive complexion who needs gentle, antiinflammatory ingredients.” Since many skin doctors believe understanding your type is the basis for good skin care, it’s worth taking Baumann’s quiz on her website (skintypesolutions.com), which follows up with targeted treatment recommendations. Here, we’ve broken down four common skin types by ethnicity, covering each one’s problematic is- sues and solutions. Consider it your cheatsheet to maintaining a radiant, youthful look. We’ve all got a certain type. No, not tall, dark, and handsome; more like dry, sensitive and spotty. When in comes to your skin, understanding your type can make all the difference for looking your best. Here is our guide for ethnic skin types, courtesy of skin guru Leslie Baumann. CAUCASION, FAIR-TO-MEDIUM Skin Type: Your skin is generally dry, sensitive, and nonpigmented with a tendency to wrinkle and lose firmness. Those at the medium end of the spectrum may get tanned with sun exposure, but also sunburn easily, whereas the fairer set just burns. Your Issues: You have less melanin in your skin and less natural sun protection as a result. “Melanin surrounds the nucleus of cells and prevents UV rays from penetrating and damaging skin’s DNA,” explains Dr. Baumann. By the time you reach your late 30s or 40s, you can start to see loss of collagen, which shows up as fine lines but also as more redness. “This is because the capillaries get their structural support from collagen,” she says. Wrinkles and Redness Rx: Building skin up structurally will help curb both problems. “You’re too sensitive for Retin-A, so use collagen- boosting retinol,” Dr. Baumann says. Try a lowstrength formula like RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream (target.com) or Neutrogena Ageless Intensives Anti-Wrinkle Deep Wrinkle Night Moisturizer (neutrogena.com) and add these supplements to your regimen: Vitamin C (to help build collagen) and anti-inflamma- tory Omega 3 fatty acids (to minimize flushing). You may also want to invest in a hand-held micro-current device you can use at home, like the new NuFace Trinity (mynuface.com). “Micro-current has been proven to stimulate collagen production,” says Dr. Baumann. Dryness Rx: Use a super-emollient moisturizer that contains anti-in- flammatories like resveratrol and green tea. Try Replenix Power of Three Cream (dermstore.com) or Caudalie Premier Cru La Crème (sephora.com). Ingredient Alert: Avoid glycolic acids, which, like Retin-A, are too irritating. Must-Have Product: An anti-inflammatory sunscreen like Eucerin Redness Relief Daily Perfecting Lotion SPF 15 (drugstore.com) with soothing licorice. OLIVE, LATIN AMERICAN Skin Type: Your skin is usually oily, pigmented, and has a tendency to spot. But you’re not especially sensitive. Olive skin tones have more melanin, providing some natural sun protection and allowing you to tan easily. “Oily skin naturally produces vitamin E, so you actually make your own anti-aging serum,” says Dr. Baumann. This makes you less inclined to wrinkle than the fair-to-medium type, but anti-aging skincare is just as important, she warns. Your Issues: “Because you have more melanin, your biggest problems are sun spots and patchy pigmentation that cause uneven tone,” says Dr. Baumann. “Melanin also naturally absorbs rather than reflects light, so you have less natural radiance.” Oiliness Rx: The exfoliating action of a salicylic acid cleanser will minimize oil production and blackheads by lifting dead-cell debris out of clogged pores. To balance skin, morning and night, try Neutrogena Oil-Free Pink Grapefruit Acne Wash (drugstores nationwide). Pigmentation Rx: Encouraging cell turnover with an effective glycolic acid formula will gradually help fade spots (a slow process because pigment is deep within the skin, not just on the surface). A glycolic treatment like Vivite Night Renewal Facial Cream (skinstore.com) at night will also increase radiance. Ingredient Alert: Steer clear of heavy moisturizers and essential oils. You just don’t need them. In fact, try waiting 45 minutes after you wash your face before putting on anything to avoid that overly shiny look come midday. “Your natural oil production will kick in and should give you a nice glow,” says Baumann. Must-Have Product: Preventing spots in the first place is key, so you need sunscreen. Since chemical blocks can contribute to that slick feeling, go for a physical block containing titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. “I recommend a micronized mineral formula that’s tinted rather than white, since many mineral blocks are harder to blend into darker skin,” says Dr. Baumann. Try MD Solar Sciences SPF 30+ Mineral Sunscreen Tinted Gel (mdsolarsciences.com) or dust on a powder sunblock (try Colorescience Pro Sunforgettable SPF 50; colorescience.com). ASIAN Skin Type: You tend to be dry, pigmented, tight and sensitive (particularly those of Japanese descent). “The melanin in Asian skin tones tends to go more yellow than brown when exposed to the sun, so this skin type is more susceptible to hard-to-treat pigment issues like melasma,” says Dr. Baumann. Your Issues: A less effective moisture barrier makes it harder to prevent moisture from evaporating and irritants from getting in. “Think of skin cells in the epidermis as bricks and fatty acids surrounding the cells as mortar holding them together,” describes Dr. Baumann. “Asian skin has fewer natural fatty acids, so it gets easily inflamed, which triggers the melanin-producing cells to create pigment.” Inflammation Rx: The surfactants (organic compounds that help absorbtion) in many foaming face washes are too harsh and stripping for you, so prevent irritation problems with a skin-calming emollient cleanser. Try a milky formula that doesn’t bubble like Patyka Absolis Cleansing Milk (dermstore.com) or Kiss My Face Creamy Face Cleanser (kissmyface.com). Another option: Soothe and hydrate with a cleansing oil, like Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil (shuuemura-usa.com). Dryness Rx: Increase moisture by smoothing on a gentle treatment oil like Josie Maran Organic Argan Oil (sephora. com). Use heavy-duty moisturizers like Fresh Crème Ancienne (sephora.com) or Atopalm Revitalizing Complex (skinstore. com), a popular Korean import, on its own or layer it over the oil for extra hydration. Ingredient Alert: UV light, hormones and inflammation all contribute to melasma, so steer clear of the sun and avoid anything drying or irritating, such glycolics or retinoids. Consult a dermatologist about how birth control may affect your hormones. Patchy pigment is difficult to treat, so prevention is the best approach. Must-Have Product: In addition to being diligent with sunscreen, the SunPill (drugstore.com) is beneficial, whether you have melasma or want to prevent it. The supplement contains a pigment-fighting fern extract. “In a clinical study, it improved melasma by blocking inflammation and helping to turn off pigment-producing melanocytes,” says Dr. Baumann. DARK, AFRICAN AMERICAN Skin Type: Your skin is considered oily, sensitive, tight and pigmented. Wrinkling, thankfully, is not your problem, but you’ll eventually experience sagging due to aging and collagen loss. Your skin isn’t always oilier, but it may be more noticeable on your darker tone. Your Issues: “Acne can be a problem, due to oil production and clogged pores,” says Dr. Baumann. “But I also see clients who use very emollient hair products to combat their hair’s dryer texture, and the products get on their pillow and migrate to their face, contributing to breakouts.” Because you naturally have more pigment in your skin, dark spots can result from post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation (PIH) even when the pimples go away. Acne Rx: Spot treating isn’t the best choice for you, because once you have the zit, you’ll likely end up with a spot. Instead, practice prevention with an anti-acne regimen. “There are lots of over-thecounter options but talk to a derm about a topical prescription option like Differin or Tazorac,” says Dr. Baumann. Skincare starts with the right cleanser— your skin will benefit from a bubbly, deep-cleansing wash. Choose one that has salicylic acid and antibacterial agents like colloidal silver and probiotics. Sonya Dakar NutraSphere Silver Clarifying Wash (sonyadakarskinclinic.com) boasts all three. Use a retinol serum at night to increase exfoliation and promote collagen, too. Try Specific Beauty Night Treatment Complex (specificbeauty.com), a serum formulation that is great because it’s lighter and sinks right in. PIH Rx: Your best bet is to use a vitamin C serum each morning to fade existing spots and prevent future ones. “Vitamin C is a tyrosinase inhibitor, it blocks the enzyme that triggers skin darkening,” says Dr. Baumann. Try Laroche-Posay Active C Facial Moisturizer (cvs. com) or SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic (skinceuticals.com). Ingredient Alert: Beware of heavy creams (and hair products!) with shea, argan oil, coconut oil, and other emollients that can clog pores. Must-Have Product: The Tria Skin Perfecting Blue Light (triabeauty. com). Says Baumann, “It helps prevent acne by killing bacteria.” The Art Of Age Defiance A generational approach to skin care puts your best face forward at any age It’s a harsh fact of life: Every day the clock ticks and we grow older. If you’ve been vigilant about sunscreen over the years and blessed with good genes, you probably look age-appropriate (or even younger than your years). But most likely your skin has started to show signs of premature wrinkling, the jumping off point to more lines, creases and splotches down the road. But before you get glum, look on the bright side—today there’s a myriad of dermatologic procedures that can ward off deeper wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots and sags for a few more years (at least until you’re ready to show them). Follow this anti-aging procedure guide to finding the best treatments for your age. 20s This is usually the decade where aging is the furthest thought from your mind. But the time is ripe for major prevention, which can be done by repeating this mantra over and over for the rest of your life (especially if you’re not doing it already): sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen! Slathering your skin with an SPF30 or higher 365 days a year, limiting your sun exposure and using antioxidant moisturizers to fight damaging free radicals is the best way to prevent skin cancers and future lines, dark spots and wrinkles. Still, forehead furrows and creases—indicative of genetics and facial gestures—can start to show up even at the tender age of 25 (sometimes even earlier). It’s worse if you are highly expressive or under a lot of stress. Some doctors will suggest a neurotoxin injection, like Botox or Dysport, which will calm the muscle down so their actions are less pronounced. “There’s a limit at such a young age. Using Botox when you have no lines is very extreme. I inject people in their twenties only because they have genetic tendencies that will make the creasing worse,” says Dr. Fincher. In your 20’s This is the age for major prevention, by using a sunblock 365 days a year. The good news is that, at this age, you may be putting off wrinkles without even realizing it. If you have acne— a common concern among women in their 20s—a prescription to Retin A will not only clear pimples, but also reverse sun damage and build new collagen, says Laura Skellchock, MD, a dermatologic and cosmetic surgeon in Boca Raton, Fla. The same goes if you opt for nonablative laser treatments to minimize scarring: The increase in collagen production will thicken and firm skin, slowing down the aging process. 30s Around age 35, you may spot the first signs of aging— crow’s feet, lines and dark pigmented patches—and your focus turns to stopping them in their tracks. A good anti-aging regimen (see more below) coupled with daily sun- screen is a must, but there are other non-surgical procedures you can con- sider. While many doctors tread carefully with injecting neurotoxins in younger women— and even then, it’s mostly done on the forehead—in your mid-30s it’s more common to inject other upper face areas, like crow’s feet, frown creases or horizontal lines. “There is a preventative side to Botox. I’m not advocating real young, but starting in your thirties, if you do it, it can mean less creasing and wrinkling than you would have if you didn’t do it,” says Joe Niamtu, DMD, a cosmetic facial surgeon in Richmond, Va. You may also notice that your skin’s perky glow is fading (blame a sluggish skin cell turnover, which clogs pores and dulls the skin’s surface), compounded by an uneven skin tone and as peckling of dark patches. Opt for a light chemical TCA peel or non-ablative laser resurfacing, like Fraxel, to increase cell turnover, reverse sun damage and zap away dark spots. You probably won’t need an aggressive CO2 laser to retexturize the skin (save this for your 50s), but these lighter procedures will boost collagen, so skin looks tight and smooth. 40s Early on in your forties, lines deepen, particularly around your mouth, cheeks and eyes. You’ll also begin to notice sagging and a loss of volume. “This is the age when a lot of women will consider trying a procedure. If you do some along the way, the less likely you’ll see the effects of aging,” says Dr. Fincher. Dermal fillers are your best choice for filling in creases and plumping up skin. They range from temporary (like Restylane, Sculptra, Juvéderm and Radiesse) to permanent (your own fat). Weighing your options with your doctor, vocalizing what kind of results you’d like and doing your own research can be the deciding factors in determining the right filler. In your 30’s The first signs of aging may require a touch of Botox or a light chemical peel for cell turnover. Not quite ready for an injectable? Radiofrequency treatments, like Thermage, use heat technology to penetrate the deeper layers of tissue, stimulating collagen. It firms and contours, making sagging skin look taut. “I wouldn’t recommend this for someone younger with good collagen maintenance because it’s not going to add much. But when you’re older, it can be beneficial in building new collagen and tightening skin,” says Dr. Fincher. 50s As you age, estrogen levels drop, and you’ll begin to notice bone loss, your brows descending and skin loosening. “Without enough ‘air in the balloon’, the skin falls. If you’ve kept up, you can avoid surgery with other augmentative procedures that support the underlying face structure,” says Dr. Skellchock. To restore volume permanently, most women in this decade consider fat injections to lift sags and fill in the hollows. Another option, though more invasive, is silicone implants for the cheeks or chin. “They last forever, and don’t move, which fat can sometimes do. Plus, they’re reversible,” says Dr. Niamtu. For wrinkles and a crepey skin tex- ture, aggressive peels or laser resurfacing treatments are the top choices for smoothing them away. Most of all, be realistic. Talk to your doctor about the results and what works with your lifestyle. Says Dr. Niamtu: “Like anything, cosmetic rejuvenation has a lot to do with prevention. It’s key if you want to postpone the aging process for a while.” Get Your Glow On Even if you’re on the fence about a cosmetic procedure, an essential part of maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin is your weveryday routine of cleansers, moisturizers and serums. “Overall the benefits from skincare alone are small, but they are part of the puzzle. They especially help with sun protection, damage control and repair,” says Dr. Fincher. If you’re sticking to the basics, SPF is a must, while antioxidant ingredients like green tea, grapeseed, vitamin C and coffeeberry all protect as well as squelch environmental free radicals. Both prescription retinoids and high- strength glycolic acid ingredients can make skin look and feel smoother and retain a glow. There are newer ingredients in over-thecounter formulas, like growth factors, that dermatologists recommend to stimulate collagen. In your 40’s & Beyond Time for dermal fillers to fill in creases and plump up the skin. Fat injections and laser resurfacing also work. Generally, your doctor’s office is where you can purchase skin care products with higheryielding results. Doctors are able to dispense skin care systems with higher concentrations of active ingredients than the usual brands you find at a drugstore. Talk it over with your dermatologist; she can guide you to what works best with your skin type and concerns. Cellulite Wars The hard facts: Eighty percent of U.S. women have cellulite—young, old, fat, thin, it doesn’t matter. The sad truth is that being a woman is all it takes, since the underlying causes are hormones, fat and heredity. And while we all recognize our dimpled derrieres to be the outcome of dear-old-mom’s gene pool, the problem is a lot deeper than that. “Cellulite is a description of the type of subcutaneous fat women have that is genetically and hormonally controlled. [But the key] is the difference in the anatomy of fat between men and women,” says Dr. Laura Skellchock, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in Boca Raton, FL. In other words, we’re just built differently. So what exactly is cellulite? Cellulite is that pockmarked appearance of the skin that occurs when fat cells get trapped in the connective tissue just below the skin. According to Dr. Fadi Bejjani, when your cellulite begins to show, it’s because your fat cells are full of extra water and toxins that cause swelling and inflammation. “This chronic inflammation of the fat in women, and sometimes in men, is subject to different hormonal and genetic factors. The fat gets lumpy and fibrotic,” says Dr. Bejjani, a cosmetic surgeon at the Advanced Minimally Invasive Surgery center in Morris Plains, NJ. Topical Treats Scrub It Out Scrubbing smoothes out surface irregularities and stimulates blood flow, and this botanicalbased exfoliator does the trick. Enriched with green coffee to help break down fat, plus chili and ginger to boost circulation, The Organic Pharmacy Resculpting Scrub is the latest offering from this British brand’s Firm and Slim line. $75, available at theorganicpharmacy.com. Smooth Moves Christian Dior’s Svelte Reversal fights cellulite with an exclusive Reversal Complex that attacks pre-disposed cells before they turn into dimpled skin. By reducing excess fat tissue, it creates a “stocking effect,” where skin is instantly smoothed and imperfections disappear. Christian Dior Svelte Reversal; $62, available at Macy’s. Firm Foundation Developed with a new micro-lattice technology to provide a tightening feeling in the skin, Elemis Pro-Collagen Body Cream instantly creates smoothness. Acacia, an anti-aging peptide, plus a marine extract, firm the butt, stomach and arms. Elemis Pro-Collagen Body Cream; $90, available at elemis.com. Oil Spill Research shows that the essential oils in this body-contouring product smooth and tone skin. Nuxe recommends using a massage technique called papier-rouler: Pinch a fold of skin and roll it between fingers from the bottom up; it can help drain fluid from fat cells to improve overall texture. Nuxe Body Contouring Oil; $37, available at beauty.com. Gelling It Caffeine-based topical creams are among the best options for cellulite (and fat) reduction. Stellar Cellulite Gel is a physician’s strength, caffeineenriched formula with a triple action Bio-Marine complex that includes sea kelp to detoxify and crushed pearl to exfoliate. Contains 21 key ingredients in a shimmery Bio-Marine gel. $53, available at stellarinskin.com. Fat Attack Scientific studies have revealed the role of the protein Sirtuin in cell longevity; it helps tap the fat stored in fat cells and activates the breakdown of lipids. Orlane Lipo-Reducing Slimming Gel also uses lotus leaf and caffeine to achieve a complete slimming effect. $150, available at Neiman Marcus. Cellulite Treatments Tackling the orange-peel effect beneath the surface The Treatment: VelaShape (Syneron-Candela), $250 per session, per body part How It Works: Vacuum and mechanical massage rollers smooth out the skin to facilitate efficient heat delivery from the radiofrequency and infrared light energy. The result is an increase in lymphatic drainage and a reduction in the size of the actual fat cells. The Skinny: Like a warm deep-tissue massage. Expect redness and a warm sensation post-treatment. Each session is 45 minutes and most need 4 to 6 for lasting results. The Treatment: I-Lipo Ultra Plus (Chromogenex) $300 to $700 per session How It Works: FDA-approved, uses low-level laser light to ‘bio-stimulate’ fat so that stored triglycerides are broken down and released as free fatty acids and glycerol that can then be used by the body as a ready energy source. Uses vacuum massage to enhance. The Skinny: Studies have show that after eight treatments (recommended over two months) there is an 8 to 10 percent reduction in body-part circumference. The Treatment: Cellulaze (Cynosure), $5,000 to $7,000 for one session How It Works: A laser fiber inside of a cannula delivers energy directly under the skin, improving thickness and quality, while simultaneously releasing the fibrous bands that pull skin down. The procedure takes about one to two hours, with full results in three to twelve months. The Skinny: Because the area is numbed with local anesthesia, there is minimal discomfort. Following treatment, there may be some soreness and bruising. Small amounts of fluid may leak from the incision sites and you may need to wear a compression garment. The Treatment: Reaction RF (Viora), $150 - $400 per session, per body part How It Works: Uses both vacuum massage and radiofrequency (RF). The massage improves blood circulation and lymphatic drainage; heat produced by the RF destroys old collagen and stimulates new collagen growth for better skin thickness and texture. The Skinny: Uses three different radiofrequencies together so that it can reach three different layers of the skin; needs 6-to-8 20-minute treatments for maximum effect. The Treatment: Mesotherapy, $350 - $600 wper session, per body part How It Works: A small amount of medication, vitamins, supplements and plant extracts are injected into the fat and connective tissue of the dimpled areas. The solution is said to break down fat and block the production of new fat cells. The Skinny: You’ll need 4 to 10 treatments depending on the size of the area being treated. Some bruising is possible, but the injections are virtually painless. The Treatment: Endermologie (LPG), $50 to $100 per session How It Works: A mechanical massage with large rollers stimulates and softens the tissue, breaking up the compartmentalized fat and reducing the appearance of cellulite. The Skinny: The sensation of the rolling machines is similar to deep-tissue massage. Temporary bruising may occur. You will need 10 to 14 sessions to see significant results.
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