10 Look Years Younger:

Years Younger:
Anti-Aging Makeup Tips
From The Experts
Top 4 Designer
Skin Creams
9 High-Tech
Skin Solutions
9 Best Doctor
Skincare Lines
The Art
of Age
Skincare for
your 20s, 30s,
40s, 50s &
Your skin type
cheat-sheet by skin
guru Leslie Baumann, MD
Update your arsenal with
the hottest treatments and
products that fight your
New You Magazine’s
Ultimate Anti-Aging Guide:
The Skin Issue
Welcome to NEW YOU magazine,
the quarterly consumer magazine
about the future of beauty and anti-aging.
NEW YOU is the premier
national publication focusing on
the world of beauty, cosmetic enhancement
and anti-aging medicine—covering cutting-edge
products and procedures that restore the look
and energy of youth.
To find out more about your magazine,
visit us at www.newyoumag.com
Whether you’re in your 20s or your 50s, there are measures
you can take to slow (or even turn back) the clock, and infuse
your skin with a youthful glow. Here we’ll help you discover
the skin care products and technologies that are most
important and effective when it comes to battling common
skin issues like brown spots, sagging skin, loss of volume,
deepening wrinkles, cellulite and more. Next time you’re at
the drugstore or cosmetic counter, you can put this newfound
knowledge to use to find a skin care treatment that addresses
your main concerns -- and makes your skin look gorgeous.
Anti-Aging Makeup Tips
The 10-Minute Brow Lift
Step 1. First brush brows upward with a course brow grooming brush. Pluck
all stray, long and unordinary hairs, then brush brows towards temples and
pluck any stray hairs on the brow bone that are not part of the shape of your
Tip: When shaping your brows, it’s best to have the brow sloping gently away
(above the brow bone), continuing in a line just beyond the outer corner, it
lifts the entire eye. If you’ve never had your brows shaped, its best to have it
shaped professionally by a brow specialist before applying the brow lift.
Step 2. Starting with an angled eyebrow brush, apply eye shadow powder that
is closest to your brow hair color, following the natural shape and filling in the
brows. For blondes use a taupe color, red heads use an auburn color, brown
hair color use a light brown color, and brunettes use a medium brown to dark
brown color depending on skin tone.
Step 3. Next, using a flat eyeliner brush apply a concealer one or two shades
lighter than your foundation and yellow in tone to the brow bone and outlining your entire brow.
Step 4. After you have outlined your entire brow, blend the concealer into
your skin with the flat eyeliner brush (blending the concealer up above the
brow and down below the brow all the way to the crease serving as a natural
brow highlight), then finish blending using your index finger by tapping
concealer into skin. Lastly, take the angled eye shadow and outline brow over
Perfectly shaped, highlighted, and lifted brows is the end result!
note: The brow lift is applied prior to applying eye shadow and defining eyes.
The shape of your eyes, how they are set, and size of your eyelids all influence
the way you should makeup your eyes for the most flattering effect. Understanding a few basic principles will help you to make the most of your eye.
A Flawless Foundation
1) Prep Your Skin
Foundation adheres best to skin that is cleansed, moisturized, and/ or
primed—which means you must take care of your skin with regular exfoliation, daily moisturizing and daily cleansing. I also recommend that you get
a professional facial, if not every month, every other month. Doing so will
ensure not only a flawless foundation application, but amazing anti-aging
benefits that will mean fewer blemishes and less blotchiness to conceal.
Use cleansing and moisturizing products with anti-aging ingredients, drink
plenty of water and maintain a healthy diet.
Note: Even the best foundation and/or concealer will not achieve the
desired result if your skin is not properly prepped.
2) Choose the Right Color Foundation
This is where many make the biggest mistake. You want to choose a shade
that perfectly matches your skin tone, not a shade lighter or darker. Next
time you are at your local makeup atelier, choose three shades closest
to your skin tone to sample, then take a disposable makeup sponge and
swatch all three on the side of your face from cheek bone to jaw line—side
by side—not on your hand, neck, or forehead. The color that disappears
against your skin tone is the perfect shade for you.
Note: Always color match in natural daylight, never in direct sunlight or
under fluorescent light.
3) Opt for the Best Formula to Match Your Skin Type
Everyone has a different skin texture, and it’s imperative you use the right
consistency of foundation for yours, since each will work differently. If
you have dry skin, use Chanel’s Vitalumiere Moisture Rich Radiance Fluid
Makeup SPF 15 ($55, www.chanel.com). The formula has moisutrizing
ingredients that target dry, dull and uneven skin. For oily skin, use LORAC
Breakthrough Performance Foundation SPF 14 ($38, www.loraccosmetics. com). It’s an oil-free anti-aging foundation with SMS complex to help
stimulate collagen and rejuvenate the skin’s structure. If you’re looking to
cover up fine lines, use Alima Pure Satin Matte Mineral Foundation ($22,
www. alimapure.com). It evens out skin tone, enhances complexion and
reduces the appearance of fine lines and pores. For full coverage, use DEX
New York Mineral Retouch ($50, www.dexnewyork.com). It’s a creamy,
highly pigmented waterproof concealer/foundation with medical-grade
coverage to camouflage all imperfections.
4) Apply the Foundation
Apply only where needed, usually the center of your face, then blend out
toward the forehead, chin and cheeks with a sponge applicator to even
skin tone. A common mistake is not blending makeup evenly. So blend,
blend, blend. Next, conceal any blemishes (and your under eye area) with
a creamy concealer one shade lighter than your natural skin tone (fair to
light skin tones use a concealer with a yellow undertone, and medium to
dark skin tones use a concealer with a peach undertone). Use a sponge to
stipple and blend concealer with your skin tone foundation. If you have
oily skin, set lightly with a finishing powder. If not, just leave it dewey and
fresh. Don’t pack on large amounts of powder over the concealer—that
only ages you. The main goal: Your makeup should look like skin.
5) Use the Right Tools
There are many different tools used to apply foundation, but best results
are achieved by using three of my ultimate favorites: Trish McEvoy’s Large
Laydown Brush, made with luxurious sable hair ($53, www.trishmcevoy.
com), is best used for applying cream foundation products. A makeup
sponge applicator by Beauty Blender ($19.95, www.beautyblender.net)
easily blends creamy foundation and/or concealer products. And the Botan
Brush from NARS’ Kabuki Brush collection ($75, narscosmetics.com)
applies loose and pressed powdered foundation and finishing powder
Tools of the Trade:
Beauty Blender
Makeup Sponge
NARS Kabuki
Botan Brush
Trish McEvoy
Large Laydown
Age Proof Your Lips
Elegant, full, healthy looking lips are a sign of youth and beauty. Unfortunately,
they are also one of the first features to reveal age. Celebrity makeup artist Brigitte
Reiss-Andersen, who works with Michelle Pfeiffer and Carrie Underwood, offers
tips on how to keep your pucker looking plump.
“To minimize fine lines, first use a primer around your mouth,” she says. Then be
sure to choose the right shade of lip color that can create an illusion of fullness.
“Sorbet colors such as melon, strawberry and tangerine will add a needed pop of
color to the face,” says Reiss-Anderson. “Stay away from dark colors which will only
make lips look thinner.”
Finally, she suggests choosing a long-lasting pencil that perfectly matches the
shade of your lip color. “By exaggerating the contour slightly, you can make lips
look a bit more robust. Just be sure to use the liner after your lipstick so that you
don’t go too far!”
Designer Skin
Fashion’s biggest names are getting into what’s
underneath their clothes...
Fashion houses have long dabbled in the beauty business.
Traditionally, a big name design house will launch a
fragrance to complement their collections. Now a growing
crop of designers are putting skin into the beauty game by
creating namesake skincare lines. Chanel, Christian Dior
and Yves Saint Laurent are pioneers in this area, but newcomers such as Tom Ford and Burberry are following suit.
For most fashion houses, beauty is the next logical step
for the brand. “I really started thinking about Burberry
makeup when we were working on the show several years
ago,” explains Burberry chief creative officer Christopher
Bailey. “I was looking at all the different ways the Burberry
girl expressed herself and it was the only element missing
when you circled her world and her attitude.”
Lest you think that a beauty skincare line is merely an
afterthought for a designer, YSL and Dior have put major
muscle behind their new launches. YSL has been doing
research in the field of glycobiology for their new Forever
Youth line for almost 30 years. “For the first time, this new
science is being applied to cosmetics, thanks to the work
carried out by the YSL skin science committee,” says Anthony Potin of L’Oreal’s research and innovation team. YSL
is now “fully dedicated to… assembling the top researchers in medical glycobiology, with skin experts, biologists,
chemists and dermatologists,” he says.
Dior’s new L’Or de Vie line is built on antioxidants
they discovered at the famed Chateua Yquem vineyard.
“We have identified an unexpected and revolutionary
ingredient—an incredible anti-aging molecule capable
of reversing the skin aging process,” says Eric Perrier,
director of research and development at Dior.
More designers are sure to follow, including a recently
announced deal inked between Tory Burch and Estee
Lauder. While some fashion trends may come and go,
flawless skin will always be in style.
Tom Ford
The story: When the former head designer at
Gucci launched his own label, he made sure to
hold onto the overtly sexy aesthetic that made him
a huge star. Ford’s foray into beauty began with a
glamorous lipstick collection. Tom Ford Beauty now
consists of a full range of makeup as well as some
serious skincare. At the heart of the skincare line
are the Tom Ford Purifying Complex and Infusing
Complex; both energize and detoxify the skin with
a combination of natural and high-tech ingredients.
The range covers everything from rich crème
cleanser to luxuriously whipped moisturizer.
Hero product: The Tom Ford Intensive Infusion
Concentrate Extreme, an oil-based serum meant to
be used under your moisturizer, is the concentrated
form of Ford’s proprietary Infusing Complex. It left
our skin looking dewy, radiant and smooth.
Price: $250
Where to buy: Bergdorf Goodman
The story: This iconic British brand, best known
for its sharp trench coats, launched a beauty line
to complete the innocent English rose look. All of
the formulations are light and easy, meant to give
women an effortless beauty.
Hero product: Burberry’s Fresh Glow is a hybrid
skincare/makeup product that moisturizes with wild
rose extract and enhances the skin with a fresh
golden shimmer. It can be mixed with foundation
to give the skin a major dose of luminescence.
We loved how it looked on bare skin, as a glowing
alternative to makeup.
Price: $48
Where to buy: Saks Fifth Avenue
The story: The French fashion house has a long
history of exceptional beauty products. Their
popular Capture Totale line, which uses stem cells
to regenerate aging skin, has been a pioneer in
the anti-aging category for many years. Their new
L’Or de Vie line, a collaboration with the legendary
Chateau d’Yquem, features 11 active molecules
derived from the Yquem vine. The newest molecule
is Miyabenol C, which reverses skin’s aging process.
Hero product: La Crème Face & Neck Custom is
a luxury skincare shopper’s dream. Your “skincare
measurements” are taken at the Dior counter and
sent to the lab in France, whereupon a one-of-akind
formulation is made up and sent in an engraved
Dior skincare couture creation.
Price: $600
Where to buy: Saks Fifth Avenue
The story: With a rich background in skincare,
YSL breaks new ground with their debut of Forever
Youth, an anti-aging line based on discoveries in
glycobiology. Glycans, which are found naturally
on the surface of cells, act like keys, locking onto
receptors of nearby cells to trigger metabolic
reactions including the growth and renewal of
younger looking skin. With Glycanactif, their new
age-defying complex, YSL appeals to the beauty
addict and the science geek. Along with the help
of their SkinScience committee, YSL has discovered
a way to re-establish cellular communication
between glycans and the cells needed to carry out
youth-building processes.
Hero product: Forever Youth Liberator Serum
contains the highest concentration of Glycanactif,
which contains glycans to help regenerate the skin
while promoting thickening of the epidermis. One
dose leaves the skin more radiant and relaxed, while
after one month, skin is completely resculpted and
plumped (in a really good way).
Price: $200
Where to buy: www.yslbeautyus.com
“Like life
and luck,
cellulite isn’t
always fair.”
The Anti-Cellulite Lifestyle:
Like life and luck, cellulite isn’t always fair. Some
women have less than others. Some have lots
more. Your chance of sporting a dimpled derriere partially boils down to genetics—so you can
thank mom not only for your beautiful eyes and
curly hair, but also your bumpy butt.
“Genetics influences the way the subcutaneous
fat is deposited, and other factors also come into
play such as metabolism and circula- tion,” says
Georgia-based cosmetic surgeon Dr. Michael
Carter. “After age 30, our bodies change, and
stress increases fat storage.”
So if you got it, you got it, and there’s no
real “cure.” But you can reduce cellulite and
minimize its appearance with a healthy, active
• Cut out empty carbs: White bread, rice,
cookies and other refined carbohydrates
increase total body fat content, thereby
worsening cellulite
• Get off your duff: A sedentary lifestyle
or prolonged sitting alters circulation to
cellulite-prone areas.
• Stop smoking: Not only does it wrinkle your
skin, but it impairs circulation, too.
• Avoid alcohol: It increases your body’s
toxic load. Slash sodium: It increases fluid
High-Tech Beauty
The future looks bright—especially with these
new products that will bring your beauty
regimen into the 21st century.
From microcurrent impulses to enzymes that mimic
viper venom, these science-driven creams and gadgets address age-old beauty challenges with futuristic
solutions—and offer you an alternative when you can’t
make it to the dermatologist’s office. Incorporate them
into a spa-like moment and you’ll get the best of both
Cool Down
Utilizing a specially contoured, cooling
ceramic-tip applicator, this treatment
massages and re-energizes tired, puffy
eyes. In addition, a correcting complex
helps reduce dark circles. It’s offered
in two shades: light or medium. Estee
Lauder New Idealist Cooling Eye Illuminator; $58; available at Bloomingdale’s.
What A Snake
An exclusive complex that
mimics the paralyzing
protein in viper venom (to
give that wrinkle smoothing result), this cream is an
at-home alternative to the
injectibles at your dermatologist’s office. Immunocologie Treatment Creme
VenoMAX; $275; available at
See The Light
This at-home skin solution treats
wrinkles with LED Light Therapy,
recognized as one of the fastest and
safest ways to achieve younger looking
skin. Recommended by dermatologists
and plastic surgeons for more than a
decade. LightStim; $299; available at
Eye Spy
This eye cream is formulated with
“Peptide P-199,” a technology that
treats all signs of aging around eyes.
By reactivating dormant stem cells,
it enhances skin tissue and cellular
regeneration for a younger looking you.
Kate Somerville CytoCell Dark Circle
Corrective Eye Cream; $75; available at
Eye of the Beholder
This eye renewal system
reduces wrinkles by pairing
topical treatments with an
advanced ion-based technology. Designed for the
wrinkle-prone area around
the peepers, it targets
crow’s feet and fine lines.
WrinkleMD by University
Medical Professional Eye
Renewal System; $179;
available at qvc.com.
Electric Toner
As the first FDA-approved at-home
device of its kind, this handheld tool
emits electrical microcurrents to help
tone and lift facial muscles. Endorsed
by none other than the cutting- edge
California Health and Longevity
Institute. NuFace; $325; available at
Plump Up
Modeled after medical techniques like
hyaluronic injections, this moisturizer
contains the same exact acid but in a
low molecular weight. The result is
super hydrated skin without a needle in
sight. Orlane Paris Super-Moisturizing
Light Cream; $165; available at Neiman
Day Dreamer
This day cream is part of a
line that’s formulated with
GenActive technology, the
latest in gene science. Clinically proven to help skin
recover from aggressors,
repair gene expression
and make skin look more
luminous and hydrated.
L’Oreal Paris Youth Code
Day Lotion SPF 30; $24.99;
available at drugstores
Lightening Rod
This sleek little pen delivers a “melatreatment” complex to lighten spots,
acne scars and blemishes without a
bleaching agent in sight. This means it
can be used on all skin tones—a true
beauty breakthrough. AmorePacific Age
Spot Brightening Pen; $140; available at
Neiman Marcus.
And The Prescription Is...
Cutting-edge skin care lines from
dermatologists and plastic surgeons are
now an industry staple, delivering officeworthy results right in your own home.
Here’s a roundup of the best in
the business.
Doctors regularly dole out advice to patients in their
plush offices, but we all benefit when they bottle their
signature skin treatments. One growing trend among
these pros? Skincare by diet. The majority of them see
it as a key component for great skin. Combine that
with high-tech delivery systems and breakthrough
ingredients designed to smooth, firm, and lift and you
can’t help but put your best face forward.
Celeb fans: Deepak Chopra, Whitney Port, Will Smith
Who: The dynamic duo of dermatologist Ezra Kest, M.D.,
and plastic surgeon Raj Kanodia, M.D.—rumored to have
improved some of Hollywood’s most high-profile noses.
What: Ayurvedic philosophy (some products boast antioxidant spices like turmeric and emblica) meets a “Medic”
approach with formulations that work intra-dermally. Says
Kanodia: “Many retinols sit on top of the skin and irritate;
ours is micronized to gently penetrate and polish. Apply it
twice a week after using the Papaya Enzyme Peel and you’ll
no longer need facials.”
Best-sellers: Collagen 111, an anti-aging serum that uses
a compound called ASC3 to stimulate production of the
pillow-y type of collagen that makes baby skin so springy. Lip
Enhancer, a must for full lips without the scalpel. It contains
peptides for long-term volumizing, and niacin to make lips
immediately plump and rosy by increasing blood flow.
Hot New Product: 24 Hour Moisture Serum. It offers timerelease moisture for the 35+ crowd with rejuvenating apple
stem cells and açai oil.
Where: Select doctors’ offices; Skin-Ology, Los Angeles, CA;
Beautiful You Center for Healing Arts, Southhampton, NY;
Celeb fans: Oprah, Beyoncé, Denise Richards
Who: Harold Lancer, M.D., creator of the Lancer Method,
which puts a spin on the typical tradition of wash then scrub.
His protocol of exfoliation fi rst and cleansing second (which
he employs at his chic new digs on Rodeo Drive) offers a
deeper clean that preps skin to drink in essential nutrients,
he explains. Former medical director of Epicuren, he was also
one of the brains behind the popular Epicuren Skincare Line.
What: Clinical grade products rooted in Lancer’s philosophy
of postponing surgical intervention for as long as you can.
“A youthful face is an inverted triangle but the triangle flips
around 35 and the lower face begins to get fuller,” he says.
“The good news is that you can maintain a lifted look if you
make a commitment to great dermatological skincare.”
Best-sellers: Natural Sea Mineral Polish, made with 40-micron
Dead Sea sand crystals that are carefully engineered to buff the
skin uniformly—with no risk of tearing.
Hot New Product: Stay tuned for a topical pore-reducing
gel for rosacea-prone skin. Free of dimethicone and alcohol,
it’s crafted to absorb oil like a sponge without drying.
Where: Nordstrom; www.20yearsyounger.com;
Celeb fans: Angelina Jolie, Michelle Williams, Kate Middleton,
Rachel Weisz
Who: David Colbert, M.D., author of “The High School Reunion
Diet,” former Chanel dermatology consultant and current backstage skin guru for Victoria’s Secret fashion shows. The busy doc
also volunteered in Haiti after last year’s earthquake.
What: Colbert believes in the healing power of plants for beautiful skin and his tightly edited collection boasts some of the best,
from gotu kola to Tibetan goji berry. “For the healthiest-looking
complexion, try to go natural with your foods, too. Nothing in a
box,” he says. “If it doesn’t grow from a tree or the ground, don’t
eat it.” One helpful tip for sweets lovers: Sub agave for sugar.
The white stuff causes loss of elasticity within skin.
Best-sellers: His “addictive” exfoliating Facial Discs. Victoria’s
Secret makeup artists use them on models’ skin pre-show to
enhance their glow. Heal & Soothe night cream—the African shea
nut butter and angelica provide major moisture.
Hot New Product: Nourish Eye Cream. It fi ghts stubborn
dark circles by getting to the root of the problem (agerelated
pigmentation) with brightening ascorbyl glucoside.
Where: Barneys New York nationwide; Louis Boston, Boston, MA.
Celeb fans: Manhattan movers and shakers, actresses, models
Who: Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, M.D., PH.D, author
of more than 40 research papers in journals like Archives of
Dermatology. Dr. Alexiades graduated from Harvard with a
Bachelor’s of Arts, a medical degree and a Ph.D in Genetics.
She is licensed to practice in both the U.S. and Europe and
has consulted for L’Oreal for three years.
What: Two unique skin care creams for all that ails you.
Alexiades-Armenakas does the hard work—mastering the
alchemy of a high-powered 37+ ingredient blend—so you
can simplify your routine and still end up radiant. Unlike so
many highly preserved products that can lose effectiveness
when shelved in warehouses, hers are tested and proven
100% active for over 6 months after opening. Yet another
bonus: They’re free of parabens, fragrance, propylene glycol
and petrolatum.
Best-sellers: 37 Extreme Actives. The original cream packs
the punch of firming peptides, redness-reducing yerba mate
tea and skin-thickening barley extract (a natural growth
factor), to name just a few. All are microencapsulated to
get deep into cells and each jar has the chic little treat of a
mother of pearl spatula.
Hot New Product: 37 Extreme Actives EXTRA RICH. It
has more emollients (ideal for mature skin) and additional
potency from DNA repairing plankton, freckle-fading
glucosamine and cacao extract. Yes, that chocolate bar
ingredient is anti-aging.
Where: Exclusive to Neiman Marcus, nationwide;
Celeb fans: Hollywood power players—on the big screen and
behind the scenes.
Who: Jessica Wu, M.D., author of the new book “Feed Your Face,”
and a principal investigator in studies that helped the FDA approve Juvéderm and Latisse.
What: Six core products that marry eastern tradition (Chinese
botanicals) and western science (pharmaceutical ingredients).
The acne Wu suffered as a child helped inspire her. “In my book,
I highlight foods you don’t normally expect to cause breakouts—
like milk. Natural cow hormones can over-stimulate your own
androgenic hormones resulting in eruptions,” she explains. “If
you make dietary changes you often see results in seven days.”
Best-sellers: White Peony Eye Contour. It fades fine lines with
free-radical-fighting superoxide dismutase and depuffs with this
delicate flower extract, which is used medicinally in China’s Fujian
Province. Dew Cream, a favorite of sensitive types and perfect for
those who’ve undergone laser treatments—thanks to scutellaria,
an anti-inflammatory, and hydrating hyaluronic acid.
Hot New Product: Heel, Elbow & Cuticle Cream (hitting shelves
soon) with 40% glycolic acid. According to Wu, it peels dry areas
for baby softness in three to four days.
Where: Clyde’s Chemists, Madison Avenue, NY; Skinterra,
Scottsdale, AZ; www.drjessicawu.com.
Celeb fans: West Coast and Rocky Mountain Midwest professional elite.
Who: Carl R. Thornfeldt, the President and CEO of
Episciences, Inc., whose Epionce line is based on 25 years
of skin research that linked the effects of two damaging
biological processes: Chronic inflammation and disruption
of the skin’s natural protective barrier.
What: Epionce optimizes the skin’s natural repair system
with a blend of active botanical ingredients and a novel
delivery system. “My goal with skin care has always been
to try and help improve the quality of life for my patients
suffering from skin conditions and diseases,” Dr. Thornfeldt
says. “I have found that repairing the skin barrier and
blocking chronic inflammation has had the most profound
effect on aging and skin health in my patients.”
Best-sellers: The Epionce Renewal Facial Products (Cream,
Lotion and Lite Lotion) and the Lytic Gel Cleanser. The
Renewal products help hydrate your skin while protecting,
preventing and repairing the barrier against environmental
effects behind chronic inflammation. The Lytic Gel’s formula
removes oils, harmful microbes and dead skin.
Hot New Product: The Lytic Sport Tx and the Melano
Corrective System (MelanoLyte Tx and MelanoLyte PRO).
The former treats skin imperfections; it’s lightweight
formula treats oily skin by removing blackheads,
whiteheads, pustules and inflamed blemishes. The Melano
Corrective System addresses the complex issue of irregular
Where: Available at www.epionce.com.
Celeb fans: Southern high society, southern elite, celebrity faces
from the South.
Who: Ronald Finger, M.D., board-certified plastic surgeon, antiaging expert and author of “Why Grow Old,” consistently rated one
of the top plastic surgeons in the South.
What: New Youth was one of the first plastic surgeon-pioneered
cosmeceutical lines, and one of the first to incorporate a blend
of anti-inflammatory, anti-glycation ingredients and whole food
nutrients to repair skin at the cellular level. “For years, I’ve been
talking about two of the root causes of aging – inflammation and
glycation,” says Dr. Finger. “This line is the result of my quest to find
products that worked, but didn’t inflame the skin of my patients.”
Best-sellers: The Anti-Inflammatory Cream. Contains a proprietary combo of anti- inflammatory, anti-glycation, whole food
ingredients and vitamins, such as cat’s claw, Russian black tea, and
marine algae extract, among others. Designed to reduce spots,
freckles and fine lines in a two-week cycle that restores smoothness
and elasticity.
Hot New Product: Wrinkle Delete, formulated to diminish deep
lines normally treated with Botox without leaving white residue or
an unnatural tightness.
Where: New Youth Medical Spa; other high-end spas;
Celeb fans: Madonna, Kelly Ripa, Joy Behar
Who: Frederic Brandt, M.D., sought-after industry
researcher, lecturer and author of “10 Minutes, 10
Years: Your Definitive Guide to a Beautiful and Youthful
What: A broad range of targeted solutions for every
skin problem, which Brandt cleverly categorized into
different collections—from Blemishes No More to Time
Arrest. His authoritative approach is culled from years
of study and patient feedback between two bustling
practices in Miami and Manhattan, where he often sees
over 40 patients a day.
Best-seller: Dark Circles Away. Sleep-deprived fans
already love this collagen eye serum, which launched
earlier this year. Part of the appeal? The cold roller-ball
applicator. It helps vasoconstrict the puffiness out of
undereye bags. Plant extracts and amino acids also go
to work strengthening the delicate area by rebuilding
collagen and elastin fibers.
Hot New Product: Pores No More Hint of Tint.
Fittingly created for those with oversized pores, the
sheer, light-diffusing color won’t sink into your skin
and cause more clogging. It wicks away shine with
flaxseed and purifies skin with antibacterial tea tree oil.
Where: Exclusive to Sephora stores, nationwide;
Celeb fans: Eva Mendes, Kate Hudson, Analeigh Tipton.
Who: Nicholas V. Perricone, author of seven books including the
new Forever Young, and the derm who gets a gold star for introducing us all to the importance of an anti-inflammatory diet.
What: Science-driven products designed to fight inflammation by
delivering the key antioxidants, amino acids, and vitamins that Perricone touts in food. “Glutathione is the body’s chief age-defense
antioxidant but we produce less with age. Our cream delivers it
topically and next I’m hoping to create a supplement that replenishes it orally,” he says.
Best-sellers: The new Acyl-Glutathione—already a cult hit after
clinicals showed it improved nasolabial folds in 30 days. How? Perricone describes it as the anti-Botox, increasing en- ergy in the cells
for more effective repair—right down to skin’s structural fibroblasts.
Try it if you’re 30+ or burning the candle at both ends. No Sun
Tanner, another fave, provides gradual, never-orange color and
tightens the skin with DMAE.
Hot New Product: The brand’s first Hypoallergenic Collection,
formulated for sensitive skins that are highly reactive.
Where: Perricone MD Flagship on Madison Avenue; Nordstrom;
Sephora; Neiman Marcus.
Your Skin Type Cheat-Sheet
We’re all unique, and so is our
skin. Both in the way it looks
and the way it reacts to active
ingredients. By understanding
your ethnic skin type, you’ll learn
the right ingredients to use, in the
right amounts.
If you’ve ever wondered what your
skin type is, you’re in the majority.
It can be tricky to decipher on your
own, but none- theless critical for
effective skin care— which is why
Miami dermatologist and best-selling
author Leslie Baumann made it
her mission to help by designing a
comprehensive skin-type test.
“I was inspired by the Myers Brigg
personality test, because there are
so many skin personalities and one
regimen just doesn’t work for all,”
says the author of The Skin Type
Solution. “Someone with thick,
oily, acne-prone skin can benefit
from stronger products than someone with a thin, fragile, sensitive
complexion who needs gentle, antiinflammatory ingredients.”
Since many skin doctors believe
understanding your type is the basis
for good skin care, it’s worth taking
Baumann’s quiz on her website
(skintypesolutions.com), which
follows up with targeted treatment
recommendations. Here, we’ve
broken down four common skin
types by ethnicity, covering each
one’s problematic is- sues and
solutions. Consider it your cheatsheet to maintaining a radiant,
youthful look.
We’ve all got a certain type. No, not tall,
dark, and handsome; more like dry,
sensitive and spotty. When in comes to your
skin, understanding your type can make all
the difference for looking your best. Here is
our guide for ethnic skin types, courtesy of
skin guru Leslie Baumann.
Skin Type: Your skin is generally dry, sensitive, and nonpigmented with a tendency to wrinkle and lose firmness. Those
at the medium end of the spectrum may get tanned with sun
exposure, but also sunburn easily, whereas the fairer set just
Your Issues: You have less melanin in your skin and less natural
sun protection as a result. “Melanin surrounds the nucleus of
cells and prevents UV rays from penetrating and damaging skin’s
DNA,” explains Dr. Baumann. By the time you reach your late
30s or 40s, you can start to see loss of collagen, which shows
up as fine lines but also as more redness. “This is because the
capillaries get their structural support from collagen,” she says.
Wrinkles and Redness Rx: Building skin up structurally will
help curb both problems. “You’re too sensitive for Retin-A, so
use collagen- boosting retinol,” Dr. Baumann says. Try a lowstrength formula like RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle
Night Cream (target.com) or Neutrogena Ageless Intensives
Anti-Wrinkle Deep Wrinkle Night Moisturizer (neutrogena.com)
and add these supplements to your regimen: Vitamin C (to help
build collagen) and anti-inflamma- tory Omega 3 fatty acids (to
minimize flushing). You may also want to invest in a hand-held
micro-current device you can use at home, like the new NuFace
Trinity (mynuface.com). “Micro-current has been proven to
stimulate collagen production,” says Dr. Baumann.
Dryness Rx: Use a super-emollient moisturizer that contains
anti-in- flammatories like resveratrol and green tea. Try Replenix
Power of Three Cream (dermstore.com) or Caudalie Premier
Cru La Crème (sephora.com).
Ingredient Alert: Avoid glycolic acids, which, like Retin-A, are
too irritating.
Must-Have Product: An anti-inflammatory sunscreen
like Eucerin Redness Relief Daily Perfecting Lotion SPF 15
(drugstore.com) with soothing licorice.
Skin Type: Your skin is usually oily, pigmented, and has a
tendency to spot. But you’re not especially sensitive. Olive skin
tones have more melanin, providing some natural sun protection and allowing you to tan easily. “Oily skin naturally produces
vitamin E, so you actually make your own anti-aging serum,” says
Dr. Baumann. This makes you less inclined to wrinkle than the
fair-to-medium type, but anti-aging skincare is just as important,
she warns.
Your Issues: “Because you have more melanin, your biggest
problems are sun spots and patchy pigmentation that cause
uneven tone,” says Dr. Baumann. “Melanin also naturally absorbs
rather than reflects light, so you have less natural radiance.”
Oiliness Rx: The exfoliating action of a salicylic acid cleanser
will minimize oil production and blackheads by lifting dead-cell
debris out of clogged pores. To balance skin, morning and night,
try Neutrogena Oil-Free Pink Grapefruit Acne Wash (drugstores
Pigmentation Rx: Encouraging cell turnover with an effective
glycolic acid formula will gradually help fade spots (a slow process
because pigment is deep within the skin, not just on the surface).
A glycolic treatment like Vivite Night Renewal Facial Cream (skinstore.com) at night will also increase radiance.
Ingredient Alert: Steer clear of heavy moisturizers and essential
oils. You just don’t need them. In fact, try waiting 45 minutes after
you wash your face before putting on anything to avoid that overly
shiny look come midday. “Your natural oil production will kick in
and should give you a nice glow,” says Baumann.
Must-Have Product: Preventing spots in the first place is key, so
you need sunscreen. Since chemical blocks can contribute to that
slick feeling, go for a physical block containing titanium dioxide
or zinc oxide. “I recommend a micronized mineral formula that’s
tinted rather than white, since many mineral blocks are harder to
blend into darker skin,” says Dr. Baumann. Try MD Solar Sciences
SPF 30+ Mineral Sunscreen Tinted Gel (mdsolarsciences.com) or
dust on a powder sunblock (try Colorescience Pro Sunforgettable
SPF 50; colorescience.com).
Skin Type: You tend to be dry, pigmented, tight and sensitive
(particularly those of Japanese descent). “The melanin in Asian
skin tones tends to go more yellow than brown when exposed
to the sun, so this skin type is more susceptible to hard-to-treat
pigment issues like melasma,” says Dr. Baumann.
Your Issues: A less effective moisture barrier makes it harder
to prevent moisture from evaporating and irritants from getting
in. “Think of skin cells in the epidermis as bricks and fatty
acids surrounding the cells as mortar holding them together,”
describes Dr. Baumann. “Asian skin has fewer natural fatty acids,
so it gets easily inflamed, which triggers the melanin-producing
cells to create pigment.”
Inflammation Rx: The surfactants (organic compounds that
help absorbtion) in many foaming face washes are too harsh
and stripping for you, so prevent irritation problems with a
skin-calming emollient cleanser. Try a milky formula that doesn’t
bubble like Patyka Absolis Cleansing Milk (dermstore.com) or
Kiss My Face Creamy Face Cleanser (kissmyface.com). Another
option: Soothe and hydrate with a cleansing oil, like Shu
Uemura Cleansing Oil (shuuemura-usa.com).
Dryness Rx: Increase moisture by smoothing on a gentle
treatment oil like Josie Maran Organic Argan Oil (sephora.
com). Use heavy-duty moisturizers like Fresh Crème Ancienne
(sephora.com) or Atopalm Revitalizing Complex (skinstore.
com), a popular Korean import, on its own or layer it over the
oil for extra hydration.
Ingredient Alert: UV light, hormones and inflammation all
contribute to melasma, so steer clear of the sun and avoid
anything drying or irritating, such glycolics or retinoids. Consult
a dermatologist about how birth control may affect your hormones. Patchy pigment is difficult to treat, so prevention is the
best approach.
Must-Have Product: In addition to being diligent with
sunscreen, the SunPill (drugstore.com) is beneficial, whether
you have melasma or want to prevent it. The supplement
contains a pigment-fighting fern extract. “In a clinical study, it
improved melasma by blocking inflammation and helping to
turn off pigment-producing melanocytes,” says Dr. Baumann.
Skin Type: Your skin is considered oily, sensitive, tight and
pigmented. Wrinkling, thankfully, is not your problem, but you’ll
eventually experience sagging due to aging and collagen loss.
Your skin isn’t always oilier, but it may be more noticeable on your
darker tone.
Your Issues: “Acne can be a problem, due to oil production and
clogged pores,” says Dr. Baumann. “But I also see clients who use
very emollient hair products to combat their hair’s dryer texture,
and the products get on their pillow and migrate to their face,
contributing to breakouts.” Because you naturally have more
pigment in your skin, dark spots can result from post-inflammatory
hyper-pigmentation (PIH) even when the pimples go away.
Acne Rx: Spot treating isn’t the best choice for you, because once
you have the zit, you’ll likely end up with a spot. Instead, practice
prevention with an anti-acne regimen. “There are lots of over-thecounter options but talk to a derm about a topical prescription
option like Differin or Tazorac,” says Dr. Baumann. Skincare starts
with the right cleanser— your skin will benefit from a bubbly,
deep-cleansing wash. Choose one that has salicylic acid and antibacterial agents like colloidal silver and probiotics. Sonya Dakar
NutraSphere Silver Clarifying Wash (sonyadakarskinclinic.com)
boasts all three. Use a retinol serum at night to increase exfoliation
and promote collagen, too. Try Specific Beauty Night Treatment
Complex (specificbeauty.com), a serum formulation that is great
because it’s lighter and sinks right in.
PIH Rx: Your best bet is to use a vitamin C serum each morning
to fade existing spots and prevent future ones. “Vitamin C
is a tyrosinase inhibitor, it blocks the enzyme that triggers
skin darkening,” says Dr. Baumann. Try Laroche-Posay Active
C Facial Moisturizer (cvs. com) or SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
Ingredient Alert: Beware of heavy creams (and hair products!)
with shea, argan oil, coconut oil, and other emollients that can
clog pores.
Must-Have Product: The Tria Skin Perfecting Blue Light
(triabeauty. com). Says Baumann, “It helps prevent acne by
killing bacteria.”
The Art
Of Age Defiance
A generational approach to skin care
puts your best face forward at any age
It’s a harsh fact of life: Every day the clock ticks and we grow older. If you’ve been vigilant about sunscreen
over the years and blessed with good genes, you probably look age-appropriate (or even younger than your
years). But most likely your skin has started to show signs of premature wrinkling, the jumping off point to
more lines, creases and splotches down the road.
But before you get glum, look on the bright side—today there’s a myriad of dermatologic procedures that
can ward off deeper wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots and sags for a few more years (at least until you’re ready
to show them). Follow this anti-aging procedure guide to finding the best treatments for your age.
This is usually the decade where aging is the furthest
thought from your mind. But the time is ripe for major
prevention, which can be done by repeating this mantra
over and over for the rest of your life (especially if you’re
not doing it already): sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen!
Slathering your skin with an SPF30 or higher 365 days a
year, limiting your sun exposure and using antioxidant
moisturizers to fight damaging free radicals is the best
way to prevent skin cancers and future lines, dark spots
and wrinkles.
Still, forehead furrows and creases—indicative of genetics
and facial gestures—can start to show up even at the
tender age of 25 (sometimes even earlier). It’s worse if
you are highly expressive or under a lot of stress. Some
doctors will suggest a neurotoxin injection, like Botox
or Dysport, which will calm the muscle down so their
actions are less pronounced.
“There’s a limit at such a young age. Using Botox when
you have no lines is very extreme. I inject people in their
twenties only because they have genetic tendencies that
will make the creasing worse,” says Dr. Fincher.
In your 20’s
This is the age for
major prevention, by
using a sunblock 365
days a year.
The good news is that, at this age, you may be putting
off wrinkles without even realizing it. If you have acne—
a common concern among women in their 20s—a prescription to Retin A will not only clear pimples, but also
reverse sun damage and build new collagen, says Laura
Skellchock, MD, a dermatologic and cosmetic surgeon
in Boca Raton, Fla. The same goes if you opt for nonablative laser treatments to minimize scarring: The
increase in collagen production will thicken and firm
skin, slowing down the aging process.
Around age 35, you may spot the first signs of aging—
crow’s feet, lines and dark pigmented patches—and
your focus turns to stopping them in their tracks. A good
anti-aging regimen (see more below) coupled with daily
sun- screen is a must, but there are other non-surgical
procedures you can con- sider. While many doctors tread
carefully with injecting neurotoxins in younger women—
and even then, it’s mostly done on the forehead—in your
mid-30s it’s more common to inject other upper face
areas, like crow’s feet, frown creases or horizontal lines.
“There is a preventative side to Botox. I’m not advocating
real young, but starting in your thirties, if you do it, it can
mean less creasing and wrinkling than you would have if
you didn’t do it,” says Joe Niamtu, DMD, a cosmetic facial
surgeon in Richmond, Va. You may also notice that your
skin’s perky glow is fading (blame a sluggish skin cell
turnover, which clogs pores and dulls the skin’s surface),
compounded by an uneven skin tone and as peckling
of dark patches. Opt for a light chemical TCA peel or
non-ablative laser resurfacing, like Fraxel, to increase
cell turnover, reverse sun damage and zap away dark
spots. You probably won’t need an aggressive CO2 laser
to retexturize the skin (save this for your 50s), but these
lighter procedures will boost collagen, so skin looks tight
and smooth.
Early on in your forties, lines deepen, particularly around
your mouth, cheeks and eyes. You’ll also begin to notice
sagging and a loss of volume. “This is the age when a lot
of women will consider trying a procedure. If you do
some along the way, the less likely you’ll see the effects of
aging,” says Dr. Fincher.
Dermal fillers are your best choice for filling in creases
and plumping up skin. They range from temporary
(like Restylane, Sculptra, Juvéderm and Radiesse) to
permanent (your own fat). Weighing your options with
your doctor, vocalizing what kind of results you’d like and
doing your own research can be the deciding factors in
determining the right filler.
In your 30’s
The first signs of aging
may require a touch of
Botox or a light chemical
peel for cell turnover.
Not quite ready for an injectable? Radiofrequency
treatments, like Thermage, use heat technology to
penetrate the deeper layers of tissue, stimulating
collagen. It firms and contours, making sagging skin look
taut. “I wouldn’t recommend this for someone younger
with good collagen maintenance because it’s not going
to add much. But when you’re older, it can be beneficial
in building new collagen and tightening skin,” says Dr.
As you age, estrogen levels drop, and you’ll begin to
notice bone loss, your brows descending and skin
loosening. “Without enough ‘air in the balloon’, the skin
falls. If you’ve kept up, you can avoid surgery with other
augmentative procedures that support the underlying
face structure,” says Dr. Skellchock.
To restore volume permanently, most women in this
decade consider fat injections to lift sags and fill in
the hollows. Another option, though more invasive,
is silicone implants for the cheeks or chin. “They last
forever, and don’t move, which fat can sometimes do.
Plus, they’re reversible,” says Dr. Niamtu.
For wrinkles and a crepey skin tex- ture, aggressive
peels or laser resurfacing treatments are the top choices
for smoothing them away. Most of all, be realistic. Talk
to your doctor about the results and what works with
your lifestyle. Says Dr. Niamtu: “Like anything, cosmetic
rejuvenation has a lot to do with prevention. It’s key if
you want to postpone the aging process for a while.”
Get Your Glow On
Even if you’re on the fence about a cosmetic
procedure, an essential part of maintaining
healthy, youthful-looking skin is your weveryday routine of cleansers, moisturizers and serums. “Overall the benefits from skincare alone
are small, but they are part of the puzzle. They
especially help with sun protection, damage
control and repair,” says Dr. Fincher.
If you’re sticking to the basics, SPF is a must,
while antioxidant ingredients like green tea,
grapeseed, vitamin C and coffeeberry all protect as well as squelch environmental free
radicals. Both prescription retinoids and
high- strength glycolic acid ingredients can
make skin look and feel smoother and retain a
glow. There are newer ingredients in over-thecounter formulas, like growth factors, that dermatologists recommend to stimulate collagen.
In your 40’s & Beyond
Time for dermal fillers to fill
in creases and plump up the
skin. Fat injections and laser
resurfacing also work.
Generally, your doctor’s office is where you
can purchase skin care products with higheryielding results. Doctors are able to dispense
skin care systems with higher concentrations
of active ingredients than the usual brands you
find at a drugstore. Talk it over with your dermatologist; she can guide you to what works
best with your skin type and concerns.
The hard facts: Eighty percent of U.S. women have cellulite—young, old, fat, thin, it doesn’t matter. The sad truth is that being
a woman is all it takes, since the underlying causes are hormones, fat and heredity. And while we all recognize our dimpled
derrieres to be the outcome of dear-old-mom’s gene pool, the problem is a lot deeper than that.
“Cellulite is a description of the type of subcutaneous fat women have that is genetically and hormonally controlled. [But the key] is
the difference in the anatomy of fat between men and women,” says Dr. Laura Skellchock, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist
in Boca Raton, FL. In other words, we’re just built differently.
So what exactly is cellulite? Cellulite is that pockmarked appearance of the skin that occurs when fat cells get trapped in the
connective tissue just below the skin. According to Dr. Fadi Bejjani, when your cellulite begins to show, it’s because your fat cells are
full of extra water and toxins that cause swelling and inflammation. “This chronic inflammation of the fat in women, and sometimes
in men, is subject to different hormonal and genetic factors. The fat gets lumpy and fibrotic,” says Dr. Bejjani, a cosmetic surgeon
at the Advanced Minimally Invasive Surgery center in Morris Plains, NJ.
Topical Treats
Scrub It Out
Scrubbing smoothes
out surface irregularities
and stimulates blood
flow, and this botanicalbased exfoliator does
the trick. Enriched
with green coffee to
help break down fat,
plus chili and ginger to
boost circulation, The
Organic Pharmacy
Resculpting Scrub is
the latest offering from
this British brand’s Firm
and Slim line. $75,
available at theorganicpharmacy.com.
Smooth Moves
Christian Dior’s Svelte
Reversal fights cellulite with an exclusive
Reversal Complex that
attacks pre-disposed
cells before they turn
into dimpled skin. By
reducing excess fat tissue, it creates a “stocking effect,” where skin
is instantly smoothed
and imperfections disappear. Christian Dior
Svelte Reversal; $62,
available at Macy’s.
Firm Foundation
Developed with a
new micro-lattice
technology to provide
a tightening feeling
in the skin, Elemis
Pro-Collagen Body
Cream instantly creates
smoothness. Acacia,
an anti-aging peptide,
plus a marine extract,
firm the butt, stomach
and arms. Elemis
Pro-Collagen Body
Cream; $90, available
at elemis.com.
Oil Spill
Research shows that
the essential oils in
this body-contouring
product smooth
and tone skin. Nuxe
recommends using a
massage technique
called papier-rouler:
Pinch a fold of skin
and roll it between
fingers from the bottom
up; it can help drain
fluid from fat cells to
improve overall texture.
Nuxe Body Contouring Oil; $37, available
at beauty.com.
Gelling It
Caffeine-based topical
creams are among
the best options for
cellulite (and fat) reduction. Stellar Cellulite
Gel is a physician’s
strength, caffeineenriched formula with a
triple action Bio-Marine
complex that includes
sea kelp to detoxify
and crushed pearl to
exfoliate. Contains 21
key ingredients in a
shimmery Bio-Marine
gel. $53, available at
Fat Attack
Scientific studies have
revealed the role of
the protein Sirtuin in
cell longevity; it helps
tap the fat stored in fat
cells and activates the
breakdown of lipids.
Orlane Lipo-Reducing
Slimming Gel also
uses lotus leaf and
caffeine to achieve a
complete slimming
effect. $150, available
at Neiman Marcus.
Tackling the orange-peel effect beneath the surface
The Treatment: VelaShape (Syneron-Candela),
$250 per session, per body part
How It Works: Vacuum and mechanical massage
rollers smooth out the skin to facilitate efficient heat
delivery from the radiofrequency and infrared light
energy. The result is an increase in lymphatic drainage
and a reduction in the size of the actual fat cells.
The Skinny: Like a warm deep-tissue massage.
Expect redness and a warm sensation
post-treatment. Each session is 45 minutes
and most need 4 to 6 for lasting results.
The Treatment: I-Lipo Ultra Plus (Chromogenex)
$300 to $700 per session
How It Works: FDA-approved, uses low-level
laser light to ‘bio-stimulate’ fat so that stored
triglycerides are broken down and released as
free fatty acids and glycerol that can then be
used by the body as a ready energy source.
Uses vacuum massage to enhance.
The Skinny: Studies have show that after eight
treatments (recommended over two months)
there is an 8 to 10 percent reduction in body-part
The Treatment: Cellulaze (Cynosure), $5,000 to
$7,000 for one session
How It Works: A laser fiber inside of a cannula
delivers energy directly under the skin, improving
thickness and quality, while simultaneously releasing
the fibrous bands that pull skin down. The procedure
takes about one to two hours, with full results in three
to twelve months.
The Skinny: Because the area is numbed with local
anesthesia, there is minimal discomfort. Following
treatment, there may be some soreness and bruising.
Small amounts of fluid may leak from the incision sites
and you may need to wear a compression garment.
The Treatment: Reaction RF (Viora), $150 - $400
per session, per body part
How It Works: Uses both vacuum massage and
radiofrequency (RF). The massage improves blood
circulation and lymphatic drainage; heat produced
by the RF destroys old collagen and stimulates new
collagen growth for better skin thickness and texture.
The Skinny: Uses three different radiofrequencies
together so that it can reach three different layers
of the skin; needs 6-to-8 20-minute treatments for
maximum effect.
The Treatment: Mesotherapy, $350 - $600
wper session, per body part
How It Works: A small amount of medication,
vitamins, supplements and plant extracts are
injected into the fat and connective tissue of the
dimpled areas. The solution is said to break down
fat and block the production of new fat cells.
The Skinny: You’ll need 4 to 10 treatments
depending on the size of the area being treated.
Some bruising is possible, but the injections are
virtually painless.
The Treatment: Endermologie (LPG), $50 to
$100 per session
How It Works: A mechanical massage with
large rollers stimulates and softens the tissue,
breaking up the compartmentalized fat and
reducing the appearance of cellulite.
The Skinny: The sensation of the rolling
machines is similar to deep-tissue massage.
Temporary bruising may occur. You will need
10 to 14 sessions to see significant results.