Formulating with Sulfate-Free Surfactants ACULYN™ Rheology Modifiers and METHOCEL™ Thickeners

Formulating with Sulfate-Free Surfactants
ACULYN™ Rheology Modifiers and METHOCEL™ Thickeners
For body washes and shampoos, there are two primary physical properties that are near and dear to the hearts of consumers
– lather and viscosity. Beyond the cleansing performance, the quantity of overall foam, creaminess of the lather, wetting and
spreading, and rinsability are key factors in consumers’ experience with personal care cleansers. With regards to viscosity,
body washes and shampoos should appear thick and viscous, as runny, watery products are unappealing to consumers and
not marketable.
Over the past few years, the demand for sulfate-free products has been increasing, bringing new challenges to formulators.
Indeed, non-sulfated surfactant systems tend to be more difficult to thicken, and thus, the choice of appropriate thickeners
is important to achieve the desired viscosity expected by consumers while maintaining a reasonable cost.
ACULYN™ Rheology Modifiers and METHOCEL™ Thickeners enable formulators to achieve the desired thickness and
flow properties in body washes and shampoos based on sulfate-free surfactant systems.
SAMPLE FORMULATIONS
Sulfate-Free Shampoo with Dead Sea Salt
ACULYN™ 22 is a high-performance rheology modifier, which enable the production of
very cost effective, sulfate-free formulations.
Ingredients
Phase
Trade Name
% Wt.
INCI / CTFA Name
Supplier
Deionized Water
69.20
Aqua / Water
ACULYN™ 22 Rheology Modifier
4.00
Acrylates/Steareth-20
Methacrylate Copolymer
Dow Chemical
B
Tealan 99%
0.41
Triethanolamine
Rita Corporation
C
Chemccinate DSLS
16.00
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Lubrizol
Tealan 99%
0.49
Triethanolamine
Rita Corporation
Plantacare 2000
2.00
Decyl Glucoside
Cognis
Lathanol LAL Flake
3.00
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Stepan
Tealan 99%
0.60
Triethanolamine
Rita Corporation
Chembetaine C
3.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Lubrizol
Propylene Glycol
0.30
Propylene Glycol
Coast Chemical
UCARE™ JR-400 Polymer
0.10
Polyquaternium-10
Dow Chemical
Tween 20
0.10
Polysorbate 20
Croda
Mandarin Lily
0.05
Parfum / Fragrance
Custom Essence
Ultracolor Green#5
0.04
Green 5
Ultra Chemical
Ultracolor Yellow#6
0.01
Yellow 6
Ultra Chemical
Dead Sea Salt Crystals
0.60
Sea Salt
Dead Sea Labs
KATHON™ CG Preservative
0.10
Methylchloroisothiazolinone/
Methylisothiazolinone
Dow Chemical
A
D
E
F
G
H
Processing Instructions
1. Combine Phase A while stirring.
2. Add Phase B while stirring slowly.
3. Add Phase C to Phase A/B and continue stirring.
4. Add Phase D to mixture from Step 3, stir until homogeneous and the Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate is dissolved.
5. Add Phase E, one ingredient at a time, with stirring.
6. Premix Phase F and add to batch with stirring.
7. Premix Phase G and add to batch with stirring.
8. Add Phase H, one ingredient at a time, with stirring.
9. Adjust pH to within range with triethanolamine.
Sulfate-Free Body Wash Formulation
METHOCEL™ 40-0202 Thickener is an essential ingredient in a sulfate-free system. Thanks to its surface activity provided
by dual hydrophobic and hydrophilic groups, METHOCEL™ 40-0202 is not only compatible with these novel surfactant
types, but also provides excellent lather enhancement, foam boosting and helps deliver a creamy and luxurious foam.
Ingredients
Phase
Trade Name
Deionized Water
A
METHOCEL™ 40-0202
Thickener
% Wt.
39.25
1.15
CTFA / INCI Name
Supplier
Aqua / Water
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Dow Chemical
Calinate LE
32.00
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Pilot Chemical
Caltaine C-35
11.50
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Pilot Chemical
Caloxamine LO
6.00
Lauramine Oxide
Pilot Chemical
Calamide O
2.50
Cocamide DEA (and) Oleamide DEA
Pilot Chemical
Calamide MC
2.00
Cocamide MEA
Pilot Chemical
ACULYN™ 60 Rheology Modifier
0.50
PEG-150 Distearate
Dow Chemical
D
Ethylene Glycol Distearate
0.70
Ethylene Glycol Distearate
E
Sodium Chloride
4.00
Sodium Chloride
DMDM Hydantoin
0.30
DMDM Hydantoin
Fragrance
0.10
Parfum / Fragrance
B
C
F
Processing Instructions
1. In main beaker, add the deionized water and disperse the METHOCEL™ 40-0202 Thickener by sprinkling it in with
propeller agitation. Once the METHOCEL™ 40-0202 is completely dispersed, adjust the pH above 8.0 with any base
material to fully hydrate the polymer. Solution should be viscous and crystal clear.
2. Heat the METHOCEL™ 40-0202 Thickener solution, with continued mixing, to 75-80ºC.
3. Add Phase B ingredients, one ingredient at a time, with continued mixing and heating, waiting for uniformity and
mixture to reach 75ºC before adding the next ingredient.
4. Add Phase C ingredients with mixing and heat to 80º-85ºC, allowing materials to dissolve completely.
5. Add Ethylene Glycol Distearate and mix until dissolved and uniform. Allow to mix 15 minutes at this temperature.
6. Add the Sodium Chloride with continuous mixing.
7. Remove heat and begin to cool.
8. At 40ºC, add the DMDM Hydantoin and Fragrance. Mix until uniform.
9. Cool to room temperature.
10. Adjust pH using citric acid or Triethanolamine (whichever is appropriate) to pH 7.0-7.5.
Interested in Learning More?
For more information on ACULYN™ Rheology Modifiers, METHOCEL™ Thickeners or
other products offered by Dow Personal Care, please contact us at the numbers listed below:
From the United States and Canada
Call: 1-800-367-3534
Fax: 1-989-832-1465
From Europe, India, the Middle East and Africa
Toll-free: +800 3 694 6367+
Toll-free from Italy: +800 783 825
Toll-free from South Africa: +800 99 5078
Call: +32 3 450 2240
Fax: +32 3 450 2815
From Latin America
Call: +55 11 5188 9222
Fax: +55 11 5188 9749
From the Pacific
Toll-free call: 800 7776 7776++
Toll-free fax: 800 7779 7779++
Call: +60 3 7958 3392
Fax: +60 3 7958 5598
+Toll-free from Austria (00), Belgium (00), Denmark (00), Finland (990), France (00), Germany (00), Hungary (00), Ireland (00),
The Netherlands (00), Norway (00), Portugal (00), Spain (00), Sweden (00), Switzerland (00), and the United Kingdom (00).
++Toll-free from all Pacific countries except Indonesia and Vietnam
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and may change with time, the Customer is responsible for determining whether products and the information in this document are appropriate for the Customer’s use and for ensuring
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Published March 2011
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Form No: 324-00429-0311
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