LUXE’S ROSY DAYS/2 CONVENTION ANXIETY BUILDS ON SA/3 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 29, 2004 • $2.00 WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Bella, Baby NEW YORK — Marc Jacobs has torn a page from the well-thumbed “La Dolce Vita” book of retro sex appeal. With a nod to Fellini’s classic film, the designer’s spinning his Louis Vuitton lass through a cruise romp of flirtatious sundresses, prim sweaters and saucy pencil skirts. Here, his delicate cashmere cardigan and embroidered baby-doll frock. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Sinking or Swimming? Back-to-School Key For Struggling Wet Seal By Vicki M. Young and Kristin Young NEW YORK — The Wet Seal Inc. will be sweating out the back-to-school selling season. After seven consecutive quarters of same-store sales declines, the specialty retailer is under pressure to show signs of a turnaround. In its quarterly filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission earlier this month, the firm said it couldn’t rule out the possibility of a “potential reorganization under Chapter 11 of the U.S. bankruptcy code.” Joseph Teklits, an analyst at Wachovia Securities, on Friday, raised the possibility PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER See Wet Seal’s, Page16 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Camille McDonald Named EVP at Bath & Body Works NEW YORK — Camille McDonald is back in the game. After four months of consulting at Zirh, the former president and chief executive officer of Parfums Givenchy Inc. and Guerlain Inc., has joined Bath & Body Works as executive vice president of merchandise and brand development. Her appointment will be effective Aug. 1 and she will report to Neil Fiske, ceo of Bath & Body Works, a division of Limited Brands Inc. McDonald is the latest in a string of high-profile hirings that Fiske has engineered in his quest to transform Bath & Body Works into a dominant beauty player. Those who have joined Bath & Body Works in the last two years include Beth Kaplan, former Rite Aid marketing chief, who now heads the flagship store program at Bath & Body Works; 12year Neiman Marcus veteran Leslie Faust, now senior vice president of flagship merchandising, and former Jane Cosmetics president Sandy Cataldo, who joined the Columbus, Ohio-based company as senior vice president of emerging brands. During the last year, reports have circulated in the market about how the emerging team at Bath & Body Works has set its sights on putting together a major assortment of third-party brands that would bring credibility to the products being created by Bath & Body Works. Some industry executives had viewed these moves as an attempt to compete with — and possibly eclipse — Sephora, but a company spokesman discounted that theory. With the earlier arrival of Cataldo, the productdevelopment machine also kicked into high gear. Bath & Body Works created a growing network of 48 flagship stores serving as proving grounds for more innovative, higher-priced products that could be rolled out to the rest of the chain. McDonald’s role will be to create new products for the 1,600-door chain. She will work out of the company’s SoHo office here along with Cataldo. In a statement Monday, Fiske said, “We are very pleased to have someone with Camille’s wealth of experience in beauty and brand-building join us. She is incredibly talented and has a track record in growing some of the world’s most prestigious beauty brands. She brings sophistication, expertise and creativity to her new role. Camille will have responsibility for upgrading our key product lines, developing new ones and increasing the pace of innovation in the company.” Fiske added, “Based on her past success, I’m confident that she will dramatically accelerate our efforts to reposition and revamp the Bath & Body Works brand.” McDonald lef t her post at Givenchy and Guerlain, two divisions of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, after serving for six years with the company. During her tenure, she had created a separate division, called American Designer Fragrances, with licenses from Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Kenneth Cole, while also running the U.S. businesses of Givenchy and Guerlain. ADF was launched with great fan- FASHION 6 Marc Jacobs mixes up a sweet brew at Louis Vuitton, Michael Vollbracht gets flirty at Bill Blass and Bryan Bradley serves a dash of sparkle at Tuleh. 1 3 3 4 8 9 The Wet Seal Inc. will be sweating out the back-to-school season after it said in an SEC filing it couldn’t rule out a potential Chapter 11. GENERAL The anxiety level of Garment District firms rose over the upcoming GOP Convention after the city set plans to periodically close Seventh Avenue. Marc Jacobs plans to open its first Boston store, a two-story site on Newbury Street, aiming for July 26, day one of the Democratic Convention. EYE: Talking with British author Alain de Botton about his new book, “Status Anxiety”...Sara Rotman does it her way...They Are Wearing at Bowery Bar. RTW: Three up-and-coming designers — Chomwan Weeraworawit, HyeJin Hwang and Prabal Gurung — are making names for themselves. TEXTILES: As Italian spinners prepare for next week’s Pitti Filati show, strong results for luxury firms are boosting their outlook. Classified Advertisements ..................................................................18-19 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 134. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior VicePresident_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. fare in the fall of 2000. At the time, Kors and Marc Jacobs both designed for LVMH’s fashion holdings in various capacities. With the addition of Kenneth Cole, the fragrance unit was estimated to have racked up a combined global wholesale volume of $120 million last year, with the potential of breaking even by yearend. The Kors beauty business was sold to the Estée Lauder Cos. on May 8, 2003, for a sum estimated by industry sources in excess of $20 million. The Jacobs and Cole licenses were snapped up three weeks later by Coty Inc. for a price estimated at $45 million to $50 million. McDonald’s previous experience included a 12year stint in the Ralph Lauren Fragrances Division of what was then called Cosmair, where she headed marketing efforts. Before moving to Givenchy in 1998, she served for less than a year at Chanel Beauté as senior vice president of sales. — Pete Born Luxury Leaders Bask in Sunny Days FLORENCE — The days of luxury are rosy in the U.S. — and they’re expected to continue for the remainder of the year. American luxury goods retailers and top executives from Italian high-end fashion houses painted an upbeat picture for 2004 at an Altagamma round table in Florence last week, timed to coincide with men’s wear trade fair Pitti Uomo. According to Altagamma, the Italian luxury goods association, the luxury goods business has been thriving in the first five months of 2004, registering a 27.7 percent increase in the U.S. and finally putting behind that annus horribilis, 2003. Altagamma also Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Camille McDonald BEAUTY BEAT By Luisa Zargani WWDTUESDAY forecast a promising second half of the year, with a better growth rate compared with the equivalent period in 2003. On a sample of 1,040 points of sale in the U.S., sales grew to $1.4 billion in the first five months of 2004. In particular, accessories grew 38 percent, apparel 27 percent and jewelry 23 percent. Italian luxury goods executives were especially pleased as the growth was achieved despite global economic and social turmoil and the weakness of the dollar against the euro. The growth was attributed to, among other things, an increased focus on service and prompt deliveries. American retailers said the booming stock market and a “general feel-good mood” are pushing the high-end customer to spend — and to spend without worrying about the price tag. “Our business is spectacular and I feel strongly that the next 12 months will not slow down,” said James Gold, the new president and chief executive officer of Bergdorf Goodman, noting how the top 1 percent of the American population controls 35 percent of the country’s net worth and how the “wealthy are becoming incredibly wealthier.” Gold said that Bergdorf reported a “very strong double-digit growth” in the first five months of the year. Karen Katz, president and ceo of Neiman Marcus Stores, like Bergdorf ’s a subsidiary of Neiman Marcus Group, said Continued on page 19 In Brief ● TO BOLDLY GO: The Body Shop International and SAP AG have signed a multimillion-dollar contract that calls for the beauty retailer to run its global business on SAP’s enterprise software. The software will run The Body Shop’s operations worldwide, including accounting, product development, supply chain, warehouse and point-of-sale, SAP said Monday. “As we continue to expand our business internationally, we need a single, enterprise-wide IT platform to effectively manage the increasing scale and complexity of our global operations,” said Jon Granville, global head of IT for The Body Shop, in a prepared statement. SAP, headquartered in Germany, is one of the largest software companies in the world. It makes Enterprise Resource Planning software for integrating processes such as accounting, human resources, manufacturing and retail. ● QUESTION TIME: A spokeswoman for Marks & Spencer plc confirmed Monday that the retailer’s chief executive, Stuart Rose, will be questioned by the Financial Services Authority, the U.K.’s stock market watchdog, about trading in M&S shares prior to the announcement by Philip Green that he intended to bid for the chain. Rose could be questioned as early as today. On Friday, the FSA stepped up its investigation, handing it to the enforcement division, which formally probes breaches of stock market rules. An FSA spokeswoman declined to give more details or confirm the timetable of the investigation. Meanwhile, M&S is standing firmly by its ceo, saying Rose did not know of Green’s intentions when he bought shares in M&S on May 7. ● COOL WEATHER, COOL SALES: Citing disappointing Father’s Day sales and “unseasonal” weather, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. lowered its June sales expectations to between 2 and 4 percent. Last week, the company warned that sales were tracking at the low end of the 4 to 6 percent range. Strong sellers for the week included hot cereal, hot chocolate and soup, while sales of summer-related goods were “very weak.” Correction The American International Designers show will take place at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York Sept. 26-29. The opening date was incorrect in the Domestic Trade Show Calendar, Section II, page 17, Wednesday. For information, call 225-667-0462. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM Fashion Ave. Has GOP Jitters NEW YORK — Anxiety among fashion industry vendors and retailers over disruptions caused by the Republican National Convention is rising after New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Police Commissioner Raymond Kelly announced security plans that include closing a 13-block stretch of Seventh Avenue from 42nd Street to 29th Street. The mayor on Friday said the shutdown of midtown Manhattan thoroughfares for several hours a day during the event, which will run from Aug. 30 to Sept. 2, would cause minimal inconvenience in the city, though he acknowledged the Garment District would be the exception. “If you don’t live or work in the Garment District, you won’t even know there’s a convention in town,” said Bloomberg, a Republican. That came as cold comfort to those who work and live in the area, where an estimated 27,000 people are employed at apparel companies, Macy’s has its flagship Herald Square store and dozens of other retailers from H&M to Foot Locker have outlets. In addition, designers will be preparing for fashion week shows at Bryant Park set for Sept 8-15 and they are more dependent than usual on getting fabrics, trims and garments in and out of their sample rooms. “I wish I could tell you we were closing,” said Patti Cohen, executive vice president at Donna Karan International. “It’s really hard because of the fact that the shows are the week after Labor Day. So it’s difficult for people to close up shop. It’s probably one of the busiest times.” Officials have said the event — the first time Republicans have nominated a presidential ticket in New York and the first political convention here since the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks — will be an economic boost and will spotlight the city’s ability to host major gatherings. The NYC Host Committee 2004 has predicted the convention at Madison Square Garden will draw 47,000 visitors and generate $166 million in new revenue. Chantal Bacon, designer Betsey Johnson’s business partner, said the closings would pose “a huge inconvenience” in the final week of preparation for the fashion shows. Bloomberg and Kelly outlined these plans: ● West 31st Street and West 33rd Street around the Garden will be closed to vehicle traffic from Sixth to Ninth Avenues. Pedestrian access to the blocks between Seventh and Ninth Avenues will be limited to people with a business-related need and photo identification. Street closings ● West 32nd Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues will be for the Republican closed to vehicle traffic. Pedestrians will be able to use this street to National enter Penn Station for access to Amtrak, the Long Island Rail Road, Convention will affect Seventh New Jersey Transit trains and the subway. ● During the four formal sessions of the convention — Monday Avenue (right), morning and evening and Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday nights, Eighth Avenue, the 13-block stretch of Seventh Avenue will be closed to vehicles. At West 31st Street other times, parts of the avenue will remain open. The thoroughfare and West 33rd will stay open to pedestrians. Street (above.) Fashion Scoops DIRTY TO THE SECOND DEGREE: Christina Aguilera may own the stage, but what about the runway? The pint-size powerhouse is set to test her swagger as she walks for the first time in DSquared men’s spring 2005 show today in Milan. Aguilera, who was the face of Versace’s fall ad campaign, met twins Dan and Dean Caten last year when they designed a series of costumes for her world tour, including a slinky, one-piece, backless leather halter jumpsuit stained with mud and dust for her opening song, “Dirrty.” Aguilera may have arrived last night with her new honey-blonde locks discreetly covered by a black hooded sweatshirt, but expect full-on skin come showtime. Between the twins and her, the sex factor will most likely be cubed. BARING IT ALL: When Wyclef Jean and his wife, Fusha designer Marie-Claudinette, pulled up to the Baby Phat party at the Whiskey in Times Square on Thursday night, traffic literally stopped. The Jeans stopped their car in the middle of the street when they caught sight of the newest billboard on the W Hotel in Times Square, which features Kimora Lee Simmons wearing only her Baby Phat sneakers. Police soon came by to ask the Jeans to pull over and let other cars pass. Meanwhile, inside, Simmons chatted with members of the crowd while Phat Fashions president Marcie Corbett showed her the newest addition to the company, Baby Phat eyewear, ready to hit at retail. “Sure, it was bold of me to bare so much on my new billboard, but I feel it is empowering to see a woman take risks and chances,” Simmons said. “Baby Phat is an extension of who I am, and if you look at all our advertisements, my family and I have shared our life and our lifestyle with the public. So this time I showed a little more. My husband loves it.” LAUDER’S NEW BRANCH?: Hard-core Michelle Branch fans and obsessive, sharp-eyed prowlers of the Internet may have noticed a curious notation on the rocker’s Web site under listings for upcoming appearances — “New York, New York-Estée Lauder for Flirt.” Neither Branch nor Lauder were talking Monday, but it raises the question: Could a deal be in the offing with the mainline beauty company that recently has embraced Beyoncé Knowles, P. Diddy and Ashley Judd? ● Eighth Avenue will be closed to vehicles from West 23rd Street to 34th Street during convention sessions. It will be open to pedestrians. Kelly said people who need to enter the closed streets — and can prove that need with photo identification — will be escorted to their destinations by police. “We want to do as much as we can to keep the businesses functioning,” he said. Jack Mulqueen, a Seventh Avenue veteran and chief executive officer of his own firm, said the convention week is a market period for many in the better and bridge sectors. He said his company would officially be closed. While some employees may still come to work, the firm won’t be setting up meetings with customers or suppliers. “I don’t know how these buyers will get in and out of the district, or even the principals,” he said. “It’s going to be a nightmare.’’ Executives said their biggest worry would be how closings would limit designers’ abilities to get materials to and from their studios. “The designers are really going to have to plan ahead,” said Barbara Blair Randall, executive director of the Fashion Center Business Improvement District. “The deliveries are going to be a problem.” Designers might have to schedule their deliveries for late at night, Randall said. This would be less of a problem for the larger Seventh Avenue buildings, many of which have 24-hour staffs, but could be a headache for the lightly staffed side-street buildings. Executives acknowledged the need for security. President Bush and Vice President Dick Cheney will be nominated for a second term and thousands of protesters opposed to the policies of the Bush administration are planning demonstrations. “I’m not happy about it,’’ said Lee Kashani, owner of the Fame New York boutique on Seventh Avenue. “But if it’s necessary for security, then let the people who are responsible decide.” MAP BY GEOGRAPHIA MAP CO. By Scott Malone Marc Jacobs to Launch Boston Store By Katherine Bowers BOSTON — Marc Jacobs plans to open its first store here this summer in a two-floor, 3,750-square-foot space in a town house at 81 Newbury Street, the city’s most prestigious retail boulevard. While the official debut is Aug. 6, Marc Jacobs International president Robert Duffy, an ardent Democrat, would like the doors to swing wide in time for the Democratic National Convention, kicking off here July 26. “I wish we could be open in time to do a big fund-raiser. I’m hoping,” Duffy said. Plan B is to stuff the store’s windows full of proJohn Kerry merchandise, including the leather-trimmed identification badge holders the brand designed for people attending the convention. Boston has long been a target for Marc Jacobs. The store might produce $4 million in first-year sales, similar to the firm’s San Francisco unit, a luxury goods executive estimated. Duffy declined to comment on financials. Bolstered by a 10-year contract with parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, $300 million-a-year Marc Jacobs is expanding its 40-store global operation. In October, the firm will open two shops, a VIP studio and a management office on Melrose Avenue and Melrose Place, respectively, in Los Angeles. The city’s college student population, its status as a walking city and the affinity for knits and coats in the New England fall and winter make it a fit for the brand. Web site registrations and sales records from Marc Jacobs’ New York stores show a significant, underser ved customer base in metro Boston, Duffy said. Along with its signature ready-to-wear collection and secondary line Marc by Marc Jacobs, the store will carry housewares and men’s wear previously not available in Boston. On the ground floor, pale blue walls and a navy blue floor will showcase the youthful Marc by Marc Jacobs collection. Lifestyle props such as branded beanbag chairs and skateboards underscore brand accessibility. Upstairs, where the signature collection will be displayed, the company has restored a fireplace, skylight, crown molding and chandelier, a nod to Newbury’s original residential character with its tightly clustered stone-and-brick town houses. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 Rebel With a Cause They Are Wearing® The socialites may be clearing out of Manhattan for the summer, but the Williamsburg hipsters aren’t going anywhere. On Sunday night, at Bowery Bar, they convened — Red Stripe in hand — to celebrate the opening of photographer Ryan McGinley’s “New Photographs” exhibition, which bowed at P.S. 1 earlier in the day. Frye boots, frilly skirts and tube tops prevailed, as did the occasional Mohawk. Looks like the kids are still alright. Mirabelle Marden and the gang... NEW YORK — A tattoo-covered Slayer-loving guitarist who once played for the early Nineties punk rock band Crotch is not the first person you would expect social swan and aspiring actress Jennifer Creel to call when planning the fall launch of her luxury French soap line, L’Atelier du Savon, in the States. But creative director Sara Rotman, the founder of MODCo Creative (which stands for My Own Damn Company), has discovered a niche consulting for the entrepreneurially inclined Uptown set. In addition to Creel’s line of fragrant glycerin body soaps, Rotman worked on the textile design and branding for Tory Burch’s NoLIta boutique, Tory, and she’s currently collaborating with Chris Burch, Tory’s husband, on the launch of Winter & Migs, a sportswear line that she calls “country club with a twist.” The social set found her via her most visible fashion client, Carolina Herrera. Since 2002, Rotman’s agency has been the force behind Herrera’s ad campaigns for ready-to-wear and bridal. How does she describe her aesthetic? “I’m a complete snob who’s covered in tattoos,” she says during a break from work at her TriBeCa office. Her rottweiler, Ozzy, named after Ozzy Osbourne — “before the reality series” — pads around. Wearing a vintage Lynyrd Skynyrd T-shirt, black Frankie B. cargos and a chainmail bracelet, Rotman, a Famke Janssen lookalike, ticks off her body art: a dragon and a dagger on her arm, a koi fish on her shoulder and bluebirds on her wrists. “Even my tattoos are the best,” she adds. MODCo’s Rotman, whose Sara Rotman clients also include Sony and MTV, says with Ozzy. her greatest strength is her attention to detail and, of course, her eye. Creel agrees. “She can do classic with an edge,” she says. For L’Atelier du Savon, Rotman helped to repackage and rebrand the line to appeal to men and women of all ages. Rotman’s final color selection? Chartreuse and silver. “She’s very creative, very sophisticated and very good at making something distinctive,” says Creel. For inspiration, Rotman looks to fine art and occasionally her surroundings. The packaging for Rescue Beauty Lounge’s upcoming bath and body line that she designed is inspired by the daisy-flecked wallpaper in her childhood bedroom. She also recalls a brainstorming session with Carolina Herrera and the photographer Terry Richardson, during which Slayer was playing on the stereo. “Mrs. Herrera is so open-minded,” she says. For all her wild-child ways — she is happiest when driving her ’68 Mustang or ’65 Ford Galaxy “very fast” — Rotman still boasts a conservative streak. An avid equestrienne, she spends her days off riding dressage in Millbrook, N.Y., wearing a full riding habit. “I wouldn’t go without proper attire,” she says, and then recalls what Kelly Kovack, a partner with Ji Baek in the Rescue product line, told her. “She said, ‘Underneath your tattoos, you’re a sweater set-andpearls type.’ She’s right — but I prefer to stand out.” eye — Alison Burwell ® STATUS OBSESSED NEW YORK — Sitting in a hotel lobby on Central Park South, Alain de Botton has just gotten off the Queen Mary II, where he was invited as “the entertainment.” Part of an Oxford University program, he was asked to give lectures on the topics he’s covered in his books: philosophy, travel, Proust and, now, wealth and power, which he chronicles in his latest meditation on contemporary life, “Status Anxiety” (Pantheon). “They responded better than I thought,” the British author insists. “If you’re going on the Queen Mary, you’re not going to be thinking about status. You are status.” As expected, de Botton found his theories of status anxiety — this worry, “so pernicious as to be capable of ruining extended stretches of our lives, that we are in danger of failing to conform to the ideals of success laid down by our society and that we may as a result be stripped Alain de Botton of dignity and respect” — were perfectly represented on board. There were the retired people who felt a drop in status because they no longer held their chief executive positions; there were the mothers who felt insecure since leaving jobs to raise a family, and there were the showoffs wielding expensive suites and Vuitton luggage. “You’re out there on the high seas and yet, every night, people dress up in black tie,” de Botton explains, with incredulity. “What floor you are on is like who you are.” De Botton’s fascination with such emotions as envy, schadenfreude, snobbery and ambition began shortly after he left school. “I realized status anxiety was a major epidemic,” he says. “It was the driving emotion of the modern world.” And though he’s since become a best-selling author and ironically comes from a background filled with wealth and status, he feels an added pressure to multitask. “People can do anything. I’ve written books, but why not start a corporation?” Nevertheless, what he calls the “permanent sense of possibility” is something of a mirage. De Botton points out that it’s as unlikely today that someone can become as rich and successful as Bill Gates as it would have been to become Louis XIV in the 17th century. “But the key thing is that it’s not made to feel unlikely,” he explains. “It’s made to feel really likely. If you’ve got a few ideas about software, if you’ve got a garage, you, too, could found Microsoft.” The problem stems from there being a huge gap between expectations and reality. “I read a New York Times report that 59 percent of Americans expect to die millionaires,” he recalls. “The real figure is closer to 4 percent.” Since our society is built on there being only “celebrities” and “nobodies,” we buy into the concept that “the only way to be a good person is to be extraordinary or to have done something extraordinary.” “And that’s a very exhausting idea,” the author continues. “You know, it really does kill people on golf courses all across the United States.” At the same time, de Botton thinks that a little status anxiety can be a good thing. “It gets us out of bed in the morning,” he says. “But it’s important to make sure you’re envying the right things. “At the heart of it all is fear,” de Botton goes on. “We fear that other people will humiliate us with their success. And they do. They forget to call us. They bore us. They have a slightly snooty manner. It’s understandable that we celebrate their failure.” There are certain things, according to the author, that we can do to keep our status anxiety in check. We should be wary of the clichés about success and failure we pick up from reality television, the movies or even the Wall Street Journal. De Botton, for one, tries to keep his distance from status-obsessed individuals, the ones who ask him, “What parties have you been to recently?” But, of course, it’s all easier said than done. “You know, if I told you I really wanted a Mercedes, by the end, you’d want a Mercedes, as well,” de Botton adds. “We’re very bad at keeping in perspective the things we really want.” — Marshall Heyman THEY ARE WEARING PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; ROTMAN BY DAVID TURNER; DE BOTTON PHOTO AND JACKET COURTESY OF PANTHEON From the Hip WWW.WWD.COM 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 Fair Grounds NEW YORK — There are plenty of ways to play it girly — a charming trend that’s clearly dominating collections this resort. At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs indulged in a little bit of “La Dolce Vita” and mixed up a sweet, bright brew of retrochic silhouettes. Bill Blass’ Michael Vollbracht got into the mood with flirty, full skirts and swirling ballgowns, all so very romantic. Bryan Bradley, meanwhile, served up what he calls “Tuleh’s greatest hits.” This means he gave the line’s faithful followers exactly what they want with colorful prints, sweet decorative touches and a dash of sparkle. Tuleh’s cotton tank and viscose and polyamide lace skirt. Tuleh’s cashmere and silk twinset with paillettes and silk and metal cargo shorts. Bill Blass’ silk chiffon gown. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM Bill Blass’ cotton seersucker and silk dress. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND DAVID TURNER Louis Vuitton’s cashmere and wool knit sweater and beaded and embroidered viscose skirt. 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Following Their Dreams Without Much Fanfare Hye-Jin Hwang and a Gam In Gale look. clothes to private clients about 10 months ago through her Web site Chomwan.com. Under her new company, Chomwan Ltd., Weeraworawit has developed a 15-piece collection and the Web site. In September, she plans to show her first full collection here in a venue that is “definitely a little underground” and will eventually relocate to New York to attend Parsons School of Design. Weeraworawit said her clothes are “what Daisy Buchanan from ‘The Great Gatsby’ might wear if she came to Thailand.” Wholesale prices range from $60 for wrap tops to $150 for chiffon dresses. Her career has a few layers. After receiving her law degree from King’s College in London, Weeraworawit worked for the international law firm Linklaters in Bangkok in mergers and acquisitions for about a year. Now she is getting her master’s degree in French law at the Sorbonne, and then plans to sharpen her focus on design. “I love studying law and it’s been very useful,” she said. “It’s a means to an end. I’m getting technical skills for [the business side of] fashion.” Like Weeraworawit, Hye-Jin Hwang, the designer behind Gam In Gale, which makes its debut this fall, has labored outside the fashion world. Born in South Korea, she has worked in graphic and interior design, putting together the Chocolate Suites, a downtown pied-à-terre that starts at $2,000 per night — from staining the floors to making some of the furniture. Her work on that property was recently featured in the French magazine Optima positioned next to the interior of New York’s Spice Market restaurant, a compliment as far as Hwang was concerned. While she hasn’t ruled out doing more interior design projects and often receives proposals, Hwang said her attention is focused on fashion. “If I meet the right person with the same vision, I might do something,” she said. “At the moment, I am so devoted to this. I don’t want to work for a company and look for drapery all day. That’s not so interesting.” After attending Ducksung University in Korea for two years, she moved to the U.S. where she picked up three degrees. She earned an art history degree in two and a half years at Ohio University. From there, she went to the University of California at Santa Barbara, where she completed a fine arts degree in the same amount of time. Her next stop was Parsons for a fashion degree. Hwang then freelanced in design for Katayone Adeli, partly because a “small company cares about details.” But Hwang wasn’t a stranger to the fashion world. In the Nineties her father owned a 40-store fashion-forward sportswear chain in Korea, which was also called Gam In Gale. The name refers to a group of whales swimming together in gale-force winds and was a metaphor for a young company, Hwang said. Her fall collection consists of 35 pieces including a wool bomber jacket, a strappy dress with German glass detail, a multitiered flapper dress, tweed coats and silk chiffon camisoles. Intermix has picked up the collection for its Madison Avenue store. Wholesale prices range from $160 to $600. Fall 2004 and spring 2005 should generate $150,000 in sales, and that figure is expected to double the following year, said Maria McManus, sales and public relations director. Sari Sloane, head buyer for Intermix, said, “The tailoring was perfect and the fabrics had a really soft hand. It’s really sophisticated, clean and very good quality. There’s definitely been a void in that market for nice, clean clothes,” she said. Prabal Gurung was born in Singapore, grew up in Nepal and worked in London and Australia, before moving here to attend Parsons in the late Nineties. As a junior, he was named “best designer” at the Fusion show, an annual fashion event featuring Parsons and Fashion Institute of Technology students. After the show his senior year, Cynthia Rowley, one of the judges, offered him a job as a designer, a full-time position he still holds. Gurung also does freelance design for 429, a new T-shirt line. After seeing his work in the Fusion show, a London socialite, whom Gurung declined to name, bought his senior project, a sixpiece capsule collection, for $15,000. He continues to design clothes for her and other private clients under his own label. On the side, he has developed a full spring collection. Dresses wholesale for about $200, jackets are around $300 and tops are $90 to $150. This spring about six stores are expected to carry his collection, he said. Gurung said the collection, which includes trenchcoats with hoodies and handstitched dresses, was inspired by Bollywood, vamps and models. “I always try to think of this woman who takes the gritty New York sidewalks as her runway,” Gurung said. “Nothing is cute. Everything has a little dark side to it. It’s for the very confident.” This year’s sales are projected to be $150,000, and that figure should more than double in 2005, Gurung said. He MARKET BASKET ENK’S CONFIRMATION: ENK International’s Collective trade show has entered a partnership with To Be Confirmed, a trade show that focuses on emerging designers and is held twice a year in New York, London and Tokyo. ENK assumes operations, development and some aspects of marketing and advertising of To Be Confirmed, which now will be called Confirmed. TBC will operate under its existing name and will continue to control its budget, finances and creative, including selecting people for the Confirmed show. has lined up a few investors including the London socialite, with the hope of eventually stepping out on his own. “When I was coming to New York from India to study fashion, everyone thought, ‘Oh, that’s a nice hobby. What do you really want to do?’” he said, “They couldn’t even fathom it being a career.” Holding down a full-time job at Cynthia Rowley, while developing his business and helping 429 with design can be difficult. “Sometimes it’s really challenging, but that’s why I Prabal Gurung left Nepal. One day I will look and one of his back and know it was worth it,” designs. Gurung said. — Rosemary Feitelberg Chomwan Weeraworawit and a Kittichai uniform. HWANG PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; GURUNG PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE NEW YORK — Three up-and-coming designers, each of whom grew up overseas, are taking markedly different approaches to setting up their businesses. Instead of working under a series of well-known designers for years, Chomwan Weeraworawit, Hye-Jin Hwang and Prabal Gurung are making names for themselves. Raised in Bangkok, educated in London and based in Paris, Weeraworawit plans to show her first collection here this fall. She has designed the uniforms for the wait staff at Kittichai, a new Thai restaurant at 60 Thompson, which is a popular Manhattan hotel. She said during a phone interview last week that her designs were inspired by trousers worn by Thai fishermen. Diners at Kittichai have liked her work so much that she has taken 30 personal orders and her Bangkok-based tailor will ship them next month. “The response has been much greater than I expected. Robin [Leigh] warned me, but I didn’t realize it would be like this,” she said, referring to her friend Leigh, who launched Kittichai with partners Michael Callahan, Jean-Marc Houmard and Huy Chi Lee. Weeraworawit agreed to make the uniforms after bumping into Leigh in Bangkok. She had started selling customized Thai-inspired The Collective will be July 18-20 at Pier 94 at 55th Street and 12th Avenue in New York and Confirmed will be held concurrently on the Intrepid Air & Space Museum at 46th Street and 12th Avenue. EARLY WINTER: John Winter has joined Great White Bear as president of sales, a new post. He oversees Regency, Regal and Bubblegum outerwear — responsibilities previously handled by co-owner Danny Fodiman, who remains with the company, along with his brother and co-owner, Robert Fodiman. Most recently, Winter was president of the Donatella label at Fleet Street. In other news, Great White Bear has doubled its showroom space at 1450 Broadway to 8,000 square feet. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Yarn Makers Ride Luxe Wave Lora & Festa’s lineup will include these yarns, from left: a blend of merino wool, silk and cashmere, and two all-merino wool products. er. This led to what Gualtieri called the “necessary step” of revisiting price lists upward more than once. Prices are MILAN — The optimism that has washed through the lux- generally set in February and July at the time of Pitti Filati. Gualtieri said part of the reason business has been ury goods market after strong financial reports from companies such as LVMH, Burberry and Richemont has difficult is that more U.S. companies are moving their seeped into the yarn market, as Italian spinners prepare production to countries where costs are lower. “If the experience of outsourcing is positive, it’s highto introduce their collections for the fall 2005-winter ly unlikely that a company will ever go back, even when 2006 retail season at next week’s Pitti Filati show. The boost comes after a tough year in 2003, when the crisis is over,” Gualtieri said. However, sales have improved recently, increasing 30 European manufacturers were hurt by several factors, including the relative strength of the euro against the percent for the spring-summer 2005 season, he said. dollar that crimped their exports to the U.S. market and Gualtieri attributed this growth to the strength of worsted worries ranging from the SARS outbreak to the Iraq war. yarns for spring. Italian yarn producers, who will exhibit at Florence’s “Last fall, the trend was carded-cashmere, which is a Fortezza da Basso July 7-9, said they are readying for their very small business for us,” said Gualtieri. Continued on page 10 next big challenge: On Jan. 1, the 147 nations of the World Trade Organization are to drop their quotas on textiles and apparel, clearing the way for low-cost manufacturers, particularly in Asia, to export unlimited amounts of goods. Competition from lowcost countries is expected to further hurt textile and apparel industries in wealthier nations, such as Italy. The steps Italian spinners are taking to prepare for the competitive onslaught include investing in technology, experimenting with new yarns and stepping up their customer service. “I consider 2004 a year zero for us, as we leave behind one of the worst years ever for the sector, with a nonexisting demand, an increase in raw materials and a low dollar rate,” said Giacomo Festa, chief executive officer of Lora & Festa. “The first six months of 2004 were better than the first six months last year, with sales in the U.S. and the Far East market picking up, in Japan, especially.” Festa said the company typically does more business in the second half of the year when its wool yarns are in greater demand for fall and winter collections. Arianna Leone, vice president of Gruppo Luigi Botto, attributed her company’s sales growth to a good performance in the U.S. market. “The main challenge these days is the exchange rate, which is making things a bit difficult regardless of the actual sales volume,” she said. “As for the balance of this year, we expect business to continue to improve and hope the currency exchange will shift a bit in our favor.” The U.S. dollar on Monday was equal to 82 euro cents, up from the low of 78 euro cents in January, but still below the yearago exchange rate of 87 euro cents and well off the rate of 1.01 euro cents two years ago. Leone said Luigi Botto was expecting a rise in demand for better quality knitwear at retail next year and at Pitti Filati will launch a family of 18.5-micron, four-ply merino yarns called XTFour, which are made through a new spinning technology that produces a more stable yarn, the company said. “This technology allows us to spin yarns which are finer and more compact than through conventional methods,” said Leone, noting that Luigi Botto has been investing in this technology for the past three years. “The benefits are greater pilling [email protected] [email protected] ✆ +39 015 7091 Valle Mosso - Biella - Italy - www.luigibotto.com ance, greater resiliency, as well Luigi Botto USA - 561 7th Ave, 21st Floor - New York, NY 10018 ✆ 212 730 8939 Fax 212 730 8919 as an improved feel and drape.” The weak dollar has also taken a toll on Filpuccui, said Federico Gualtieri, sales manag- By Luisa Zargani GO•UP Look ahead Tomorrow fabrics_Future yarns Ready 4 eXTtra performances? WOOL INNOVATION SINCE 1911 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 Textiles & Trade Solid Year Seen for Yarn Continued from page 9 The carded-cashmere trend paid off for Loro Piana, where it has resulted in a 25 percent increase in sales, said Luciano Bandi, who heads the yarn division. Bandi said Loro Piana’s fall-winter trends would lean toward yarns that “look heavy, but are light, and hairier.” Accordingly, Loro Piana has developed what he called a “technologically rustic” cashmere through a spinning system that allows the yarn to be “puffy, but light and resistant.” Zegna Baruffa-Lane Borgosesia will be focusing on materials that “convey a sense of security, soft and warm and very luxurious, that highlight the quality of raw materials,” said Mila Zegna Baruffa, who is in charge of product and communications and is a member of the family that owns the spinner. At Pitti Filati, Zegna Baruffa will preview its 18micron Saxxon wool, which the company is trademarking. She said it is made from wool that grows in a helicoidal form — meaning the fibers naturally spiral, taking a spring-like shape. When spun into yarn, the wool staple fibers have a natural elasticity, that Zegna Baruffa described as “reactive and alive, it opens up as if it were mixed with [spandex].” “It took us years of research and we grew special sheep in Australia for five years,” she said. Seeking to further improve its technology, Filpucci at Pitti will introduce a category of Soffili, the company’s trademarked extra-light wool yarns Zegna Baruffa’s lineup at Pitti Filati will include, from left: a blend of merino wool, cashmere and angora; an all-cashmere yarn; a merino-wool yarn, and a blend of merino wool, silk and cashmere. Luigi Botto’s XT-Four merino wool yarn. GO•UP I demand. I make a value choice. I prefer garments made using fabrics and yarns labelled "BIELLA The Art of Excellence. " The mark of excellence which embodies the best of style combined with attentiveness to health and wellbeing. Chosen by: Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli - Botto Giuseppe & Figli - Tonella - Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 - Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti Ing. Loro Piana & C. - Fratelli Piacenza - Vitale Barberis Canonico - Lanificio Fratelli Garlanda - Filatura Marchi Giovanni Pettinatura Italiana - Tintoria di Trivero - Filatura di Trivero - Filatura di Pollone - Lanificio di Lessona - Botto Poala - Italfil Lanificio Luigi Botto - Filatura di Crosa - Gartex - Lanificio Tessilstrona - Lanificio Fratelli Fila - Biella Vertical Textile - Quality Biella. www.biellatheartofexcellence.com called Soffili Next, five stretch yarns with a 12 and 7 gauge, thicker than their past range. “This is a significant step for us, as our historical Soffili yarns came with a 5 gage maximum,” Gualtieri said. Cariaggi plans to introduce its “duetrentasei” cashmere yarn at the show. A company spokesman described the yarn as a cashmere for all seasons that is thin, going through 10 steps of twisting. The company has been working on the yarn for three years. Exhibitors said technology alone will not be enough to maintain their competitive position next year. At Lora & Festa, Festa said the constant changes of the fashion industry make it critical for suppliers to focus on service. “People no longer plan ahead, they don’t take risks and don’t buy in advance,” he said. As evidence of this trend, most exhibitors said they did not WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM PITTI FILATI Textile and apparel manufacturing employment: 638,331 Currency: $1 U.S. = 82 euro cents 55th edition, July 7-9 COUNTRY FOCUS: ITALY GDP: $1.552 trillion/$26,800 per capita (2003) GDP change: +0.5 percent Population: 58.1 million Unemployment: 9.2 percent Textile and apparel imports to U.S.: $2.21 billion, +5.3 percent* Key products: Men’s wool suits, women’s wool coats, cotton knit shirts and pants, wool woven fabrics The textile and clothing sector is a key driver of the Italian economy, and its second-largest export commodity after agricultural and industrial machinery. Italy relies on exports of its products to non-European Union markets, which account for almost half its shipments abroad. Italy’s textile tradition goes back centuries, and its industry is in some ways still organized among regional clusters that have been in place for hundreds of years, with silk specialists around the Lake Como area and makers of other wovens in Prato. Like most industrialized countries, Italy’s high wages and costs put its manufacturers at risk of losing market share to competitors in poorer nations after the World Trade Organization drops quotas on textiles and apparel next year. Italian makers argue that their quality and fashion sense offer a competitive edge, although they’re also stepping up their efforts on the technology front as they prepare for a new sourcing dynamic. * FOR THE YEAR ENDED IN APRIL, COMPARED WITH PREVIOUS-YEAR PERIOD SOURCES: CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT OFFICE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL, OANDA.COM, “STUDY ON THE IMPLICATIONS OF THE 2005 TRADE LIBERALIZATION IN THE TEXTILE AND CLOTHING SECTOR,” BY INSTITUT FRANCAIS DE LA MODE, ET. AL., ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION AmatoStudio LOCATION: Fortezza da Basso, Florence Presentation of fallwinter 2005-’06 yarns for knitwear. NUMBER OF EXHIBITORS: 78 companies from regions such as Piedmont, Lombardy, Tuscany, Emilia Romagna, Veneto, Marche and Umbria. VISITORS EXPECTED: 6,500 attended February edition. expect to write many orders at the show for the fall-winter 2005 merchandise they were previewing. They expect orders to arrive in about six months, which would leave seven or eight months for the yarns to be knit or woven into fabric, cut and sewn into garments and shipped to retailers. Festa said quick turns and attention to customers’ demands is the best way for Italian producers to operate. “We also believe in personalizing yarns depending on the client’s needs, a sort of made-toorder service,” he said. At Pitti, Lora & Festa, known for its worsted yarns, will introduce its first selection of carded yarns — a grade of yarn that is somewhat more uneven than worsted varieties, but is often used in chunky knit garments. “This answers specific market requests and shows how much our clients trust us and are loyal to us, asking us to try our hand at carded yarns,” said Festa. High quality quick response FINE YARNS FINE PEOPLE 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Textiles & Trade SWATCHES FORDE STARTS CONSULTING FIRM: Roseann Forde, a 28-year veteran of DuPont’s fiber business, now known as Invista and sold this year to Koch Industries, has formed her own consulting company. Forde was among the hundreds of people recently let go in a restructuring effort at Invista. As the firm’s global ready-to-wear fashion director for three years, Forde said she felt her experience was well suited to consulting. “I felt it was time to reach out on my own and offer some fresh ideas to an industry where trends spread rapidly and edgy ideas are quickly translated to all markets,” she said. Her services as a consultant will include providing fashion styling, as well as color, trend and merchandising information, for a variety of markets. THE SMELL TEST: Nilit, a yarn producer based in Migdal Haemak, Israel, has introduced an antibacterial nylon yarn called Sensil BodyFresh that helps control odor. The odor-fighting properties last more than 20 washes, since it comes from an antibacterial additive in the polymer, rather than a treatment on the finished fabric. Marketing manager Oded Breier said in a statement that antibacterial qualities combined with the microfiber yarn “results in high-performance garments that keep pace with an active lifestyle.” He added, “Nilit is dedicated to meeting consumer demands for high-performance fabrics that offer the feel-good factor during strenuous activity.” The Fiber Price Sheet On the last Tuesday of each month, WWD publishes the current, month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost of one pound of fiber. Fiber Cotton Wool Polyester staple Polyester filament May Synthetic PPI Price on 6/28/04 63.99 cents $2.58 60 cents 60 cents 106.3 Price on 5/25/04 62.75 cents $2.53 60 cents 58 cents 105.7 Price on 6/24/03 54.98 cents $2.91 52 cents 65 cents 106.9 *The current cotton price is the May average on fiber being delivered to Southeastern region mills, according to Agricultural Marketing Services/USDA. The wool price is based on the average price for the week ended June 25 of 11 different thicknesses of fiber, ranging from 15 microns to 30 microns, according to The Woolmark Co. Information on polyester pricing is provided by the consulting firm A MUSEUM WITHOUT WALLS: The Chance Foundation of Providence, R.I., has given the American Textile History Museum in Lowell, Mass., a grant of nearly $445,000, which the museum will use to make portions of its collections of textiles, decorative arts, tools, machinery and workplace artifacts available online. “By harnessing the power of technology now available, we can provide access to our collections that creates what is, in some ways, a virtual museum without walls,” museum president and chief executive officer Michael Smith said in a statement. Jan Russell, strategic planning committee chair of the museum’s board of trustees, said: “Too often, the most rare objects that museums collect are never seen by the public. Now, scholars and lifelong learners from across the country and anywhere in the world will be able to access our wonderful collections in a way that preserves the objects while sharing the knowledge.” TIME TO CHANGE: Bolstering its place in the phase-change materials DeWitt & Co. The synthetic-fiber producer index, or PPI, is compiled by the Bureau of Labor Statistics and reflects the overall change in all synthetic-fiber prices. It is not a price in dollars but a measurement of how prices have changed since 1982, which had a PPI of 100. business, Outlast Technologies Inc. last month acquired the assets of Frisby Technologies Inc., including technology licenses, the Thermasorb trademark, logo and Web site, intellectual property rights, customer and supplier databases, and office and lab equipment. Phase-change materials help fibers and fabrics store, absorb and release heat. “This acquisition will further enhance our intellectual property, diminish any product confusion in the marketplace and give us access to Frisby’s library of test results, data and product development,” Outlast global vice president Brad Poorman said in a statement. Hockey Co.’s Ratings Get Boost From S&P NEW YORK — The Hockey Co.’s debt rating got a much needed boost after the company’s acquisition by Reebok International. The supplier’s senior secured debt rating was raised by Standard & Poor’s Ratings Services Monday. The Hockey Co., a Montreal-based manufacturer of hockey equipment and apparel, was lifted to “BBB” from “B” and removed from CreditWatch, where it was placed in April. The S&P’s ratings service credited the boost to Reebok’s recent $200 million-plus acquisition of nearly all of The Hockey Co.’s stock, as well as the assumption of about $125 million in debt. Reebok also had its “BBB” corporate credit and senior unsecured debt rating affirmed, and both companies’ outlooks were listed as “stable” by the S&P. “The ratings on Reebok continue to reflect its well-recognized brand name, improved product portfolio and good cash flows and liquidity position,” S&P’s credit analyst Jean C. Stout said in a statement. “These factors are somewhat offset by the high degree of fashion risk in the athletic footwear market and significant competition in Reebok’s core segment.” Reebok’s stock closed at $37.01 Monday on the New York Stock Exchange, down 11 cents, or 0.3 percent. — Carrie Melago BIELLA - PARIGI - MONACO - NEW YORK - HONG KONG - SHANGHAI - TOKYO Add a very special S to your sensations. Cashmere Made in Scotland® at Pitti Filati - Central Pavilion Even more exclusive, to be experienced with new intensity. An intimate pleasure to wear, a new emotion, light and comforting. Shamir is all of this, re-invented cashmere. So extraordinarily soft and light that becomes pure and sensual pleasure to the touch. S i n c e 1 8 5 0 ZEGNA BARUFFA - LANE BORGOSESIA S.P.A. Filatura in Vallemosso - ITALY Shamir Ultrafine Cashmere www.shamir.it Todd & Duncan Stand H 10/12 For information: (917) 589-5895 www.cashmeremadeinscotland.com Z. Hinchliffe & Sons Ltd. Stand P 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM HaaT Stuff NEW YORK — Trend-shy designer Issey Miyake believes an eclectic collection by Makiko Minagawa, his former textile designer, can make it — even as ladylike glamour stages a fashion comeback. Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus agree. HaaT, which bowed under Miyake’s umbrella of collections in fall 2001, is the brainchild of Minagawa, who worked alongside Miyake for more than 30 years. Minagawa helped mold the designer’s Pleats Please line in 1993, which featured textiles pleated through a special process. While Minagawa serves as HaaT’s creative director and textile designer, Hiroaki Ohya, who has worked in the Miyake Design Studio since graduating from Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo in 1992, is the line’s designer. The collection, whose name is derived from the sanskrit word for village market, consists of two groups: Haath, which means hand and features limited-edition pieces made in India, and Heart, a group produced in Japan with a wider distribution. It is available at Issey Miyake stores in New York, Tokyo and London, as well as at Bergdorf Goodman here. This fall, Neiman Marcus stores in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Chicago also will carry the line. The philosophy behind HaaT, which wholesales for $150 to $1,500, is its focus on global fabrics. The luxurious elements, however, come from a spiritual place rather than from a place of wealth, Minagawa said. Both materials and techniques are borrowed from exotic locations such as Africa, One of the rose looks for fall. Fabrics used in the fall collection. MANNEQUIN PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; OTHERS BY YASUAKI YOSHINAGA Textiles & Trade Makiko Minagawa India, Mongolia, Peru and Thailand. Examples include a collaboration with women from Thailand’s Akha tribe that has produced fine, colorfully embroidered fabrics and a denim used for fall 2003 that’s made of an Egyptian cotton seed grown in Zimbabwe. The climate and soil there grows a cotton that is sturdy and rugged, unlike the soft and silky variety grown in Egypt. Preserving rich traditions of the past and melding them in sophisticated ways for the future is what the collection is all about, Minagawa said. “I feel that if the traditional techniques can be given life within a contemporary context, they also can be passed on to future generations,” she said. Textiles, it seems, have been woven into her life. Born to a traditional dyeing and weaving family in Kyoto, Japan, Minagawa’s father and grandfather were textile artists, and her mother was a traditional Japanese painter. The process of creating a fabric is something that the designer likens to planning a new piece of architecture. “My inspiration can come from many places,” she said. “I tend to have no interest anymore in a textile after I have finished it. My interest always lies in the creation of the new.” Her latest line for fall was inspired by roses and ancient Greek times. Some of the patterns in the collection depict flowering plants wrapped around pillars of Greek ruins. “I was inspired by looking at roses through a magnifying glass,” Minagawa said. “A colorful view of the world unfolds to show a beautiful collage of scattered, overlapping flower petals.” Variations of rose pink and red tones abound, as do white silver, deep green and other earth tones. Signature pieces include jackets, skirts, wrap sweaters and a dress, all featuring a rose motif that looks appliquéd but is actually part of the fabric’s design. Other highlights include a colorful tweed skirt and jacket with bright tones of orange, blue, green and yellow, as well as a pieced patchwork apron dress made of velvet in earthy tones, and a one-sleeve cashmere wrap. Roopal Patel, women’s fashion director at Bergdorf ’s, which has carried HaaT since fall 2003, said the line “has its own concept, its own identity. It’s very well conceptualized and the execution is amazing.” Patel also noted that the HaaT woman is someone who is part of an almost “secret club.” “The collection has its own loyal following and is really known by word of mouth,” Patel said. “Women who buy HaaT are really connoisseurs of intellectual fashion.” The store receives monthly deliveries of the collection — about 10 to 15 pieces — which keeps the selection fresh. “The beauty of it is that there are pieces in the collection that can work on anyone,” she added. “Any woman can layer a piece from the line into her existing wardrobe.” — Daniela Gilbert 14 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM U.S. Firms to Bush: Sock It to China issues. A commerce department spokeswoman declined to comment on the petition. China agreed to a special safeguard provision when it entered WASHINGTON — The U.S. socks industry is seeking the Bush administration’s help in curbing imports from China, saying they have the World Trade Organization, allowing countries to impose quotas on products if they determined Chinese imports were causing mardamaged domestic manufacturers and disrupted the market. Four trade and lobbying organizations — The Hosiery Asso- ket disruption. Under the textile-specific safeguard, the U.S. can ciation, the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, the place quotas on an import category for as long as a year. National Council of Textile Organizations and the National Textile A group of federal agencies overseeing the safeguards last year apAssociation — representing socks manufacturers and yarn suppli- proved three of four petitions placing quotas on knit fabric, dressing ers filed a joint quota safeguard petition Monday. They said man- gowns and robes and bras, limiting the growth in each to 7.5 percent for made fiber, wool and cotton socks imports from China have skyrock- a year. The group, known as the Committee for the Implementation of eted from fewer than 1 million Textile Agreements, has 15 workdozen pairs in 2001 to 22 million ing days or until July 20 to deterdozen pairs, valued at $91.2 milmine whether it will accept the lion, in 2003, while prices and dosocks petition. mestic socks production have Erik Autor, vice president and fallen dramatically. international trade counsel at “This is the first time we have the National Retail Federation, ever asked that quotas be placed — Charles Cole, The Hosiery Association said, “One thing that is different on socks,” said Charles Cole, about this petition is you actually chairman of the domestic production committee of The Hosiery do have sock manufacturers on this petition and you actually do Association. “We really haven’t gotten involved in this type of legis- have significant U.S. production of socks.” China’s share of the U.S. socks import market ballooned to 15 lation in the past, but our industry is being hurt.” The petition contains a list of about 40 firms that have closed or percent last year from 1 percent in 2001 and surged to 21 percent in had major job cuts, primarily because of the influx of cheap im- the first quarter, according to the associations. The average market ports, Cole said. Socks makers are worried that their domestic base price of socks, based on the average landed duty paid, fell from $9 a will shrink even more when quotas are eliminated on Jan. 1 and dozen in 2001 to $4.15 a dozen in 2003. U.S. domestic socks production declined to 166 million dozen China has open access to the U.S. market. The filing comes as the Bush administration is under election- pairs in 2003 from 207 million in 2001, and production employment year pressure from manufacturing and labor groups to challenge in the sector fell to 16,000 last year from 19,300 in 2001, said Jim China on unfair trade practices, which they said have decimated Schollaert, director of strategic outreach at AMTAC. U.S.-made U.S. jobs. Several high-level officials, including Secretary of socks dropped to about 40 percent of the retail market in 2003 comCommerce Donald Evans, were in China last week to discuss trade pared with 76 percent in 1999. By Kristi Ellis J.C. Penney Sued Over Chargebacks NEW YORK — Chicago-based clothier Hartmarx Corp. waded more deeply into the women’s wear market with the acquisition of luxury knit designer Exclusively Misook Inc. Monday. Hartmarx expects the $30 million purchase to boost its annual women’s segment revenues up to $100 million while pushing the company closer to its goal of a split between men’s tailored and other categories. “This company used to be strictly a tailored suit company 10 years ago, and we’ve gradually been shifting the mix,” Hartmarx president and chief executive officer Homi B. Patel told WWD. Under the five-year employment agreement, Exclusively Misook will continue to operate as a freestanding unit. At the close of the deal, Hartmarx will pay $30 million, as well as more payments over five years if certain earning levels are met. “Our business has grown very rapidly and we were looking for a partner that would help take us to the next level,” Misook Doolittle, founder and designer, said in a statement. Hartmarx, which closed the 2003 fiscal year with $3.1 million in net income, expects the acquisition to boost earnings by 12 to 15 cents a share in 2004 while adding $35 million to sales. The company fended off a hostile takeover by Lincoln Co. three years ago, and management viewed the Misook acquisition as a preview of things to come. “We’ve made a lot of progress. Since the threat of the hostile takeover, our stock has tripled, almost quadrupled, and so have our earnings,” Patel said. “The company is now very solid and financially sound, and in a position to make more acquisitions. And we hope to do so.” PARIS — Carrefour on Monday said a new pact had been signed by its principal shareholders, effectively quashing speculation the French hypermarket and supermarket operator could fall prey to Wal-Mart. The Halley and the March families, as well as Carrefour chief executive Daniel Bernard, sealed an agreement that gives them 25 percent of Carrefour’s voting rights, said Paroma, the Halley family’s holding company. Together the three control 16 percent of the firm — the Halleys have 12.4 percent, the Marches 3.4 and Bernard 0.2 percent. “The agreement means these families are committed to the future and the growth of the firm,” said a spokesman for Carrefour. Earlier this month it was reported that a previous agreement was on the rocks, and there was speculation family shareholders might oust Bernard and replace him with Luc Vandevelde, former chairman of Marks & Spencer plc. The shareholders were said to be disgruntled over the slow growth at the world’s second-largest retailer. A meltdown was seen as an overture to a hostile bid by WalMart, which has said it wants to grow in Europe through acquisitions. Meanwhile, Paroma said Vandevelde would oversee the pact. As reported, Vandevelde assumed Paul Louis Halley’s place on Carrefour’s board after the French businessman and his wife died last December when their private airplane crashed. NEW YORK — A New Yorkbased apparel firm, claiming its business was destroyed because of chargebacks, filed a lawsuit against J.C. Penney Co. Inc. The lawsuit by Nazareth International Inc. was filed on June 10 in a federal district court in Dallas, alleging breach of contract, fraud and conversion. A spokesman for J.C. Penney said, “J.C. Penney [is] committed to the legal compliance and ethical business practices in our supplier activities. We’ve operated consistently with the contract and have abided by the rules. We feel that the claims against J.C. Penney are without merit, and that it would be inappropriate to comment further because the case is in pending litigation.” According to the complaint, Nazareth entered into a trading partner agreement with the retailer on April 30, 2002. It sold and delivered to J.C. Penney merchandise valued at $750,784. The problem arose when J.C. Penney allegedly refused to pay Nazareth a $360,752 balance on the goods. The lawsuit said J.C. Penney also demanded “gross margin support,” or chargebacks, as a condition of any payment. The New York firm said it agreed to a $50,000 reduction if the retailer would pay the balance remaining. The firm said the retailer did not make that payment. Because J.C. Penney declined to pay the amount owed, Nazareth said its factoring facility revoked the financing. “At that point, [the] plaintiff could no longer take new orders or fulfill orders it had because it no longer had the financing capability to continue to do so,” court documents said. Nazareth said it was forced to fire key employees and that its “business was destroyed.” Nazareth is seeking the $360,752 as well as lost profits in addition to unspecified exemplary, incidental and consequential damages. — Carrie Melago — Robert Murphy — Vicki M. Young haven’t gotten involved in “thisWetypereallyof legislation in the past, but our industry is being hurt. ” Hartmarx Acquires Carrefour Principals Exclusively Misook Expand Voting Power 16 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Wet Seal’s Key Season HELP (NOT) WANTED: Playboy’s search for a new editorial director is finally beginning in earnest — but is it just a formality? While headhunter Karen Danziger of Howard-Sloan-Koller sounds out potential replacements for James Kaminsky, the feeling among many people at and close to the magazine is that it’s only a matter of time before the job is awarded to Chris Napolitano, one of Playboy’s two executive editors. He’s based in New York. (The other, Stephen Randall, is based in Los Angeles.) Sources say Playboy founder and editor in chief Hugh Hefner believes he gave up too much control to Kaminsky, whose 18-month tenure ended in April. A Maxim veteran, Kaminsky moved Playboy’s main editorial office from Chicago to New York and overhauled the entire front of the magazine. “It was too much change for Hefner’s liking,” said one source. “He felt it had gotten too far from his original vision.” Napolitano, in contrast, is someone Hefner is comfortable with, having spent more than a decade at Playboy. So why conduct a search at all? Perhaps to appease Christie Hefner, chairman and chief executive of Playboy and Hugh’s daughter. Unlike her father, Christie is said to favor bringing in a big-name editor who will impress advertisers and generate buzz, sources said. This time around, the hope is to poach someone from the more sophisticated end of the men’s market rather than the lad books. Several high-ranking editors at major titles confirm having been contacted in the past few weeks. Most potential candidates, however, express major reservations about the job — specifically about the prospect of working MEMO PAD Same-Store Sales (%) Trailing 24 Months Sagging Sales Sales (millions) new creative director, Victor Alfaro, there are high hopes for looks called “vintage angels” and “granny chic.” “A lot is riding on fall,” said Liz Pierce, an analyst with Sanders Morris Harris in Los Angeles. “Is it a make-or-break situation? It’s too early to say. Some of the [fall] product is coming [in stores] on an item-by-item basis. That’s not merchandised like they told us it was going to be. They said it’s going to be a compelling selling presentation.” Wachovia analyst Teklits, wrote in his research note, “We have learned from industry contacts that Wet Seal’s woes are deepening on all fronts.” Those fronts, according to the analyst, include inventory issues and the exodus of internal talent. He also wrote that the company might be an acquisition candidate, but that buyers who see value to the Arden b. concept might think twice about undertaking the task of turning around the Wet Seal division. Members of the financial community are trying to remain optimistic regarding Wet Seal, but emphasized the retailer is heading into a critical juncture as to the state of its financial well-being. Jim Rice, credit analyst at Bernard Sands, said, “We’re watching them very closely. They do need a good fall season and back-to-school, as well. The company sources overseas, and the problem and risk are that if there is a fashion mistake, it can’t really be corrected because there will be too much product already in the pipeline.” One factoring executive on the West Coast, who requested anonymity, acknowledged he’s heard of Wet Seal’s request for capital, but said it may not be easy for the company to secure funding. “There has got to be some very special arrangements when it gets down to granting them credit,” he said. “It’s something that the credit community is very concerned about.” However, Wet Seal has the advantage of having no debt on its balance sheet, which may give the retailer additional breathing room beyond for a few quarters as it tweaks it merchandise mix. Howard Tubin, an analyst at Cathay Financial, observed, “We have a neutral rating on the stock. Based on the back-to-school preview I saw, the line’s got potential. It offers some fashion newness and some differentiation that was lacking in the spring line. If back-to-school doesn’t work, and the fall and holiday seasons are a miss, then it will be another story.” Trailing Eight Quarters Bottoming Out Profit/Loss (millions) Continued from page one that the “company will never return to profitability.” He noted that the “odds of a Chapter 11 filing over the next 12 months appear to be greater than 50 percent.” According to executives at Wet Seal, the SEC filing language about a possible Chapter 11 is part of its legal disclosure. “I would say it’s routine for a company in the situation that we are in,” said Helen Rotherham, a spokeswoman for the Foothill Ranch, Calif., retailer. “We are required by law to do that. But we have no plans whatsoever to file.” Rotherham said the company is looking for additional capital and “working in total accordance” with the company’s turnaround plans. “We definitely have big plans for the future,” she said. Katherine Rose Galligan, an analyst at Aperion Group Inc., which has a hold rating on the stock, said, “While the risk of a Chapter 11 is standard language, the truth of the matter is that this company is teetering on the fence. If it is not successful with its back-to-school season, the feasibility of a bankruptcy is more likely than it might have seemed six months ago or even one month ago.” Wet Seal also disclosed in its regulatory filing, “Due to our financial results over the past 22 months, we have begun to experience a tightening of credit extended to us by vendors, factors and others for merchandise and services. The initial impact of this credit tightening has reA back-toquired us to issue letters of school credit outside of the ordinary course of business, or, in look from some instances, shorten ven- Wet Seal. dor credit terms.” Wet Seal’s same-store sales have been negative for the past 22 months with declines as high as 32 percent. It’s important to note that the retailer’s sales fell along with the entire specialty teen sector. But as the sector recovered, Wet Seal did not. Over the past several months, competitors such as PacSun and Hot Topic have delivered stronger comps. PacSun, for example, has posted samestore sales gains of 12.4, 11.4 and 7.8 for March, April and May, respectively. Wet Seal emphasized that it hasn’t experienced any significant delay or disruption of merchandise flow. The retailer noted in the filing that the b-t-s season represents a “pivotal point in our turnaround strategy.” As reported in WWD, the Wet Seal previewed its b-t-s line to analysts, scheduled to hit stores on July 12 on both coasts. Designed by the company’s Compromised Comps Trailing Eight Quarters SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS AND SEC FILINGS FOR THE MOST RECENT QUARTER under a boss committed to preserving Playboy as an historic artifact. One editor of a men’s book summed up the dilemma this way: “It would be a fun thing to be the editor of Playboy, except you’re not really the editor.” The Hefners, through a spokesman, declined comment. — Jeff Bercovici THE ENEMY WITHIN: Forget about the rigors of getting into the club of the moment, these days its becoming tougher to stay in at Soho House. In an effort to preserve the exclusive hangout’s gossip firewall, management has instituted an informal demerit system. “We’ve recently started keeping notes on members who violate club policy,” said Tim Geary, who handles the club’s p.r. “Whether it’s trying to get too many people in, or yelling at a waiter, or printing something negative about the club. So far, though, we haven’t had to revoke a membership.” Not according to Gawker editor Choire Sicha, who earlier this month claimed to have been banned from the club, a favorite of media types. “Choire’s membership came up for renewal right about the time a couple of negative pieces ran [on Gawker.com],” said Geary. “We told him it was a conflict of interest for members to write about the club. He simply chose not to come back.” Sicha remembers it differently: “When Soho House had its renewal, I never got mine in the mail. Tim just stopped returning my e-mails.” Which hasn’t stopped Sicha from returning to the glorified watering hole. “I have been back,” said Sicha. “And I don’t wear a mask.” Or use a pseudonym, like New York magazine Intelligencer scribe Deborah Schoeneman recently claimed to do in an article on Gothamist.com. “I was just making a joke,” Schoeneman said, when asked by WWD what names she’s given at the door. “I have a rule about gossip,” said Page Six’s Paula Froelich, also a member at Soho House. “If more than two people see something happen, it’s going to get out. [With Soho House] you’re talking about people who are prone to gossip anyway.” Froelich then added, “They claim to have a lot of media members, but the majority of people are just publicists” — a profession that seems to foster a strange, reflexive ability to pick up a phone. “I just publish other people’s reports,” said Sicha. “I never even saw anything interesting at Soho House. And I have yet to see a celebrity there.” And Froelich? “I’ve only been three times this year. When something big happens, people call us the next day to tip us off.” — Sara James TOUGH LOVE AT PARENTS: It looks like Russell Denson, Gruner + Jahr USA’s new ceo, has a zero-tolerance policy for circulation shenanigans. Denson, who took over this month after a four-month interregnum, last week fired Bill Carter, the head of consumer marketing for Parents magazine, after an audit exposed problems with the title’s subscriber file. According to an internal memo from Denson, copies of Parents were sent to some customers who had let their subscriptions lapse, violating Audit Bureau of Circulations rules. Besides Carter, two circulation officials with companywide duties lost their jobs: business director Grace Dynan-Surdi and fulfillment manager Kristi Basset. It’s no surprise Denson is anxious to be seen as running a tight ship: Under his predecessor, Dan Brewster, three G+J titles — YM, Rosie and Fast Company — reported circulation numbers that later proved to be inflated. — J.B. Predict Your Own Future. WWD’s Second Half Forecast Issues Issue Dates: July 6-9, 12 th Close: 4 days prior to issue WWDForecast issues provide an outlook for the second half of 2004 across more than a dozen categories. WWD editors will focus on the variables that affect the market, including: • Key Issues • Mergers & Acquisitions • Upcoming Events • Product Innovation • Newsmakers Ensure your future success by getting your ad in front of top-level executives that rely on these forecasts as an essential industry planning tool. For more information on advertising in WWD, please contact Ralph Erardy, senior v. p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 18 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS WHOLESALE AND RETAIL RELOCATION PAID TO CONNECTICUT -RESUMESJersey + Rib Lycra Fleece + Velour Drake Fabrics 718-389-8902 FABRICS WANTED Leather, silks, fancies or upholstery fabrics. Remnants or full pieces. Call: 212-243-4913 *TD Sweater Cut & Sew Knits........$75-80K *Work in Westchester, NY...............$75-80K Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates GILBERT CAREER RESUMES (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa fashionresumes.com fashioncareercenter.com PAID TO FLORIDA *Sr. Tech. Lingerie/Foundation......$75-85K *Spec Tech/Assoc Tech Lingerie ...$35-65K [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 FASHION RESUMES SINCE 1970 Lifetime Updating/Phone Interviews Rush Service Available PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 www.resumesforfashion.com Design Assistant DESIGNER Sean John’s new Women’s line seeks a creative designer with at least 5 yrs experience in Contemporary Women’s Design. Must have knowledge of Fabric and Fit. Candidate should be energetic, innovative and creative. Technical Designer Admin Since 1967 W-I-N-S-T-O-N APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN*SALES*MERCH ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 APPAREL JOBS 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Must have 5 years tech design experience in women’s design. Responsible for communicating with vendors/factories to resolve tech pattern related issues and problems. Proficient in technical drawing and garment construction. Join us and you will receive an excellent compensation package working with one of the hottest apparel companies around. To be considered for the above positions, please email resume to: [email protected] Indicate clearly which position you are applying for. EOE Apparel Trim Components 37th St. Full Floor 7500 ft. Beautifully Built Move In Condition Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Showroom / Office / Retail We find you space-best deal-no fee Sublet 525 7th/ready Garment Center Real Estate Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Major global mfr. seeks an energetic & motivated Account Executive to work out of our NYC office calling on existing & prospective accounts - major apparel brands & retailers - to promote our global offer, services, and capabilities. Experience in denim, trim management, technical design and/or apparel construction a plus. Competitive benefits package. Salary commensurate with experience. Please Fax resume to: 212-561-6468 Intimate Lingerie/Swimwear Co. located midtown seeks: PATTERNMAKER: 2+ years experience for fast paced department. DIGITIZER: Work or knowledge of Lectra Systems & Windows with knowledge of CAD system preferable. Fax resume & salary requirements: 212-337-0639 ASSISTANT PATTERNMAKER to Head of Import Division Top Lingerie Co. seeks person with 5 years minimum import experience, dealing with vendors, costing, and styling. Individual must have good sense of fabric & color. Strong organizational, communication, and computer skills req’d. Wal-Mart experience preferred. Fax or E-mail resume & salary requirements to: 212-679-4975 / [email protected] Asst. to President & Head Merchandiser Private label women’s manufacturer seeking organized, pro-active assistant with a "do-anything’ attitude for fast paced office. Strong communication and computer skills a must. Some light secretarial duties. Great opportunity. No experience required. Fax resume to 212-868-2801 CEO-CFO $150K French fashion. Wholesale/retail exp. ACCOUNT EXEC $55K+ Hi-end fashion ’couture’ house. FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] SHOWROOM/GALLERY/STUDIO Gorgeous Chelsea loft. 4,000 sf Wood flrs. Column-free. Call Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 DESIGNER CHILDREN’S WEAR Est’d fast-growing domestic, importer of children’s 7-14 sweaters and cut & sew knits seeks take charge designer with min 3 yrs exp. Responsibilities include color forecasting, line planning & total follow thru from concept to finished sample of coordinated line of swtrs & knits. Exp w/ majors a plus. Salary commensurate w/ exp. Fax resume: Att: Merchandiser 212-768-7856 DESIGNERS (2) $100K+ Partner/Investor Domestic denim start-up seeks financial backer or prod’n partner. Stand-up, visionary mgmt. w/ proven track record of bldg $15M+ 1st yr. co’s. In strict confidence: [email protected] or Fax: (310) 246-1905, Attn. WD PART Pattern - Production - Samples Full - Fast - Quality 212-575-1001 PATTERN/SAMPLES Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Samples and patterns full servcie shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. (1) Contemp & (1) Missy Moderate Sweaters & Knits Exp a MUST Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 DESIGNER/ STYLIST Timeless Treasures Fabrics Leading Cotton Design House has excellent opportunity for experienced head stylist to manage "quilt" division. Must have extensive experience in designing & coloring Quilt collections. All responses will be kept confidential. Please fax resumes to: 212-226-1786 Attn: Kim Mouzouras Design Exciting Opportunity! Patternmaker & Digitizer PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Established Social Occasion Dress Manufacturer seeks extremely qualified production assistant with minimum 5 years experience. Background must be in designer/couture production with perfect understanding of patterns & fabrics- especially knits & novelties. We need a dynamic, smart & organized individual with strong analytical & problem solving skills, capable of multi-tasking. Duties include, maintain & update piece & finished goods inventories, Great opportunity for highly motivated project fabric needs, issue cutting tickets, individual at a top fashion doll co. track and follow up production schedules located in the Mid-Hudson Valley. The to meet projected deliveries etc. Must right candidate must be able to make have excellent computer skills including patterns from designer sketches, sew excel & word. Queens Location. own outfits for dolls, be hardworking Fax resume and salary requirements to: and detail oriented. Make the move 718-204-5081 from the fashion industry to the doll industry. Contact Joe Petrollese at: 845-339-9537. EOE. M/F PRODUCTION ASSISTANT PATTERNMAKERS *Gerber/PDS (2). Jeans & Jackets .$75-85K *Better Pvt label. Dress/Jackets.....$80-90K [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Patternroom Clerk Lingerie Co. seeks entry level Clerk/ Trainee to work in Pattern Design Room making ladies’ underwear. Must have basic pattern knowledge, a good command of English, and be willing to learn. Fax rsume/salary requirements: 212-337-0639 Private Label Product Manager NY based Missy Moderate Private label Sptswear company, seeks Private Label Product Manager for Wovens. Must be well organized, detail oriented. Have strong follow up, and computer skills. self motivated, able to walk in and take over. Fax all resumes to: 212-730-0913 REQUIREMENTS: • Bachelor’s degree or higher. • Excellent Written and oral communication skills • Computer proficiency with AS400, Word, Excel, and Outlook. E-mail: [email protected] DSGN - BOYS INF/TOD DSGN - BOYS 4/20 SPTS DSGN - (2) GIRLS 2/16 DSGN - LAYETTE N/I DSGN-TECH - GIRLS 2/16 Ladies apparel designer seeks production assistant. Highly motivated individual with 5 years experience in retail and manufacturing. Must be detail oriented with good organizational, follow-up and communication skill. Please fax resume to 212-249-1427 A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Costume Jewelry Looking for min 10 years exp. in set up of overseas factories, line prod, inventory control. Looking to move facility to Central or South America. Huge growth potential both professionally and personally. Rapid expansion of company and need person with the right exp. to develop new system. Spanish speaking nec. Please fax resume and salary history to: 212-625-8345 Seeking exp’d. individual to sew Evening Suits & Bridal Gowns for Ladies’ Evening Wear Designer. Call Rachel: 212-398-0487 TD-JACKETS $80K TD-JEANSWEAR $70K TD-SWIMWEAR/Lingerie $70K Develop Tech Work w/Designers $65K SPEC TECH Better Designer $37-57K [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 Tech Designers DIR/MGR/SRS *Dir Tech-Woven Suits, Better Mkt $125K *Tech Mgr-Better Sportswear $120K [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 TECHNICAL DESIGNER KNITWEAR Moderate Ladies Sportswear Company seeks technical design person for sweaters, and cut & sew knits. Must have a minimum of 5 years experience in sweater construction, cut and sew patternmaking, and development of specs. Good follow-up and computer knowledge required. Fax resume to: 212-730-0913 Well established multi-line Los Angeles Showroom opening in NY. Excellent oppty. for highly motivated, assertive salesperson with a positive attitude. 2-4 yrs. experience in women’s contemporary market. Extensive travel required. Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] Interviews in New York, July 8 - 11 Leading Intimate Apparel Manufacturer seeks a seasoned Account Executive to manage & grow existing accounts and open new business opportunities. Qualified candidates have a min. of 5 yrs of wholesale/retail buying experience in dept. or specialty stores. Intimate Apparel background preferred. Candidate must have strong retail, analytical, and computer skills and a proven track record of building customer relations. Travel req. Please send resume w/ salary req to: [email protected] Sales Executive Missy woven shirts mfr. seeks sales pro for NY showroom. Must have strong dept. & chain store contacts. Fax resume to: 201-330-0002 SALES - Knitwear Salesperson needed for knitwear mfr., with emphasis on creativity, service & professionalism. Must have private label experience & have confidence to work with buyers with initiative & creativity. Experience essential & a good working knowledge of sweaters & cut and sew knits an added advantage. Well established, high-end women’s Please respond to: Box # 1069 fashion designer seeks highly motivated 7 West 34th Street, NY NY 10001 individual with 3-5 years experience to purchase production trim. Excellent communication and follow up skills are a must. The candidate will be communicating with suppliers both domestic and overseas. Computer skills required. Please fax resume to Rapidly growing contemporary dress (646) 572-0163 collection seeks dynamic & experienced Specialty Store Salesperson to help get us to the next level. Friendly work environment. Please fax resume & salary requirements to: (212) 465-9187 SALESPERSON Production Manager/ Import Textile Production Patternmaker Jr., Missy and Women’s Knit & Woven Sportswear Major Private Label apparel co. seeks individ. w/3 to 5 yrs exp. Excell. technical & organizational skills necessary. Fast paced co. Computer literate (Excel/Word.) All major benefits. (EOE) Fax resume incl. salary req. to: FAX 212-556-5431 *PRODUCTION* Prod Asstnt - Imports - Activewear MFR Sourcing Coordin.-Bi-lingual-Sptswr. Co. Trim Coordin.-Sportswear-L.I. Location Other [email protected] or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 Production Assistant Emmelle SAMPLEMAKER Sales Rep Timeless Treasures Fabrics Product Development Coordinator/ Production Coordinator DUTIES: •Monitor and report all Product Development stages including samples execution and fit comments. •Conduct Fabric and Trim Research. •Travel to vendors when necessary to ensure quality and timely delivery. •Monitor multiple production schedules including Fabric & Trims deliveries and Finished Garments deliveries. [email protected] HASSON MIRELES SHOWROOM TRIM BUYER Production Manager Leading Cotton Design House has excellent opportunity for experienced Converter. Correspond w/ overseas mills on daily basis. Ability to multitask in a fast paced environment. Strong import exp. w/ textiles a must. JNCO JEANS, industry leader, is seek- All responses will be kept confidential. ing a qualified Product Development Please fax resumes to: 212-226-1786 Coordinator/Production Coordinator with Attn: Kim Mouzouras or mail resumes 5+ years experience to join our L.A. to: Timeless Treasures Fabrics, Inc., team for its Young Contemporary divi- 485 Broadway, NY, NY 10013. sion, J&Company. Major West Coast Denim Co. seeks innovative DESIGNER for JUNIOR JEANS LINE. Candidate needs to contribute to the development of seasonal lines, concepts, and consumer relevant product opportunities. Support the development, evolution, and communication of a brand look. Domestic & overseas travel. Must be able to work in a fast-paced & fun environment. Please E-mail resumes to: [email protected] OPEN$ OPEN$ OPEN$ OPEN$ OPEN$ Lots of opportunities for upbeat, detailed candidates with excellent followthru skills. 1+ years’ exp. $30-40K+. Call Laurie: 212-947-3399 or Email: [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Est’d. Ladies Private Label Importer seeks an exp’d. Design Assistant to support the Head Designer in all daily design activities. Ideal candidate will have strong organizational and communication skills as well as full command of Photoshop & Illustrator. We are a flexible and highly entrepreneurial Hong Kong based Co. with strong financial and operational capability. We are offering an outstanding opportunity for the dynamic self starter who can help us unlock the value in our infrastructure. Email resume in strict confidence to: EMMELLE SALESPERSON Madison Avenue Designer Boutique seeks sales associate with a minimum of 3 years experience. Must be highly motivated and professional. Part time. Please fax resume to: 212-249-1427 Production/Studio Mgr. Hip designer men’s/women’s sportswear co. seeks individual to oversee in-house & NYC prod’n. Must know MAC/Photoshop & Excel. Tech garment knowledge a +. Soho location. Email: [email protected] Director of Sales Established textile design studio seeks exp. sales rep to sell advanced CAD services to apparel & home markets. Call 212-244-1426 MONDI A well known brand distributor is looking for a seasoned sales executive with customer relationship in the bridge and designer ready-to-wear market. Must have minimum 5 years experience, strong organizational skills and be computer savvy. If you meet these qualifications, please fax your resume to: (212) 391-9559 Showroom Sales Mfr./Importer of Branded Jr. Knit Tops & Sleepwear seeks exp’d. Sales Pro for its NY Showroom. Must be energetic, willing to travel, and have existing contacts in Chain, Specialty & Major Dept. Stores. Minimum 2 years showroom sales exp. req’d. Fax or E-mail resumes to: 212-719-9328 / [email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 29, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM Luxe Leaders Bullish in Florence Continued from page 2 customers in the high-end range of the market appear to have been “holding back” in 2003, and, as they feel “out of the recession,” they’re spending freely. “The accessories business has led the way, with [Neiman Marcus recording] an outstanding handbags business for the past 14 to 18 months,” said Katz. She said the shoe business is also “amazing” and noted the stores have sold more alligator shoes over the past year than in the past three years combined. “We are now selling many more jewelry pieces costing above $100,000 and less pieces costing around $50,000,” said Katz, adding she was also surprised by a “strong return” of the men’s wear business over the past 14 months. Jack Mitchell, ceo of specialty stores Mitchells of Westport and Richards of Greenwich, Conn., said that, barring new “terrorism attacks,” he believes the luxury goods business will continue to be strong for another six to nine months and that customers are feeling better about the economy and “excited about the future.” Mitchell said he has had a 20 percent increase in customers visiting his stores this year. Debi Greenberg, ceo of specialty store Louis Boston, said American customers are “becoming used to terrorism and being in a war, settling, and spending more for themselves.” Italian executives, notwithstanding the difficulties connected to the dollareuro exchange rate, were also optimistic about their business. “Our core customer is back and ready to spend, and we are registering a boost in sales in the U.S. across the board, from sportswear to accessories,” said Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Umberto Angeloni, Brioni’s ceo, said the “new wealth is everywhere” and noted how real-estate rates in Monte-Carlo have unexpectedly grown by 50 percent over the last three years. “Who would have thought? Rates already seemed sky-high enough,” said Angeloni, adding the drop in Leonardo Ferragamo and Howard Socol; The scene at the Altagamma round table in Florence. tourist flow last year forced companies to pay more attention to their local customers, selling them “an experience, an emotion rather than a product.” The difficulties of the past 18 months forced entrepreneurs, designers and retailers to “reevaluate how to run their business and reorganize it” and worked as an “energy charger” according to Ron Frasch “In the short term, the luxury sector couldn’t be better, with a good balance in sales between women’s, luxur y, and young sectors, overall I’d rather be at Barneys than at Wal-Mart,” said Socol. In general, Italian designers and manufacturers have limited their profitability by reducing their margins, while maintaining the same prices, despite the strong euro. We are registering a boost in sales in the U.S. “across the board, from sportswear to accessories. ” — Gildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna Group of Saks Fifth Avenue on the sidelines of the meeting. Indeed, last year was widely described as a “wake-up call” for the industry, which had to look for new creative energy. Howard Socol, chairman, president and ceo of Barneys New York, said “in 2004, the dominant factors are creativity and product development, rather than price” and that the industry is looking at different ways to boost business. Leonardo Ferragamo, chairman of Altagamma, said 2003 was “one of the worst” for the sector, but that Italy’s ability to react and look for new business models set the Italians apart and have made them more competitive. “The market is increasingly demanding more special products,” he said. “The luxury goods business in the U.S. is on fire, simply amazing,” said Michael Burke, ceo of Fendi, after the meeting. “Italy is a manufacturing and design country, so the issues are different here.” Vittorio Missoni, sales and marketing manager at the family-owned company, said the firm can’t make cheaper items because the dollar is weak and thus hikes prices by at least 20 percent. “What can we do? We make something special and keep our customers loyal, they pay more but they get something special,” said Missoni. Katz concurred. “American customers shop everywhere — that’s why we give them that extra special cashmere,” she said. Others present were in fact pleased with business in the U.S. Enrico Mambelli, ceo of Gianfranco Ferré, said sales in the U.S. are growing by 20 percent each season, and Gianfranco Pené, chief of Gibò, said resort sales in the U.S. grew 75 percent this season. In addition to its own Gibò line, Gibò produces and distributes ready-to-wear collections for Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan, Antonio Berardi, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Paul Smith, among others. Gibò also makes the new men’s line for John Galliano, launched for spring 2004. PETROJEANS Tory By TRB is currently seeking Sales Professionals for Full-Time positions with its Flagship Store in Nolita. Ideal candidates will have a minimum 3 years of fashion retail experience, a strong clientele base, and will be customer service driven. The industry leader in headwear is seeking experienced sales representa- Tory By TRB offers a competitive salary, tives with strong relationships with graduated commission structure, and specialty and better department a full benefits package. For considerastores. We are launching our new bag tion, please Fax or E-mail resume to: and eyewear extensions. We have terri- (212) 334-3038 / [email protected] tory opportunities available in multi- For more information about Tory By TRB, a luxury women’s apparel & accessories ple states throughout the USA. collection, please visit our website at: For consideration pls email your www.toryltd.com resume to [email protected] 1-800-289-0273 S U S A N B R I S T O L, Inc. Manufacturer of Better Women’s Sportswear Hot young contemporary/young men’s denim line seeking Sales Executives for all regions. Qualifications: 3-5 yrs. whole sale experience, contacts with dept. & specialty stores, denim industry experience.Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] SALES REPRESENTATIVES New England Territory & Mid-Atlantic Territory Susan Bristol is a women’s sportswear manufacturer that was established in 1970. We have strong brand name recognition and a loyal customer following. We have evolved from designing what has been categorized as a traditional sportswear line to designing a line of clothing that has a more modern, contemporary feel. We continually strive to remain true to our spirit of passion, innovation and superior quality. For consideration, it is imperative that you have demonstrated successful sales experience specific to our business. We offer a competitive commission structure and believe in creating a commitment to a long-term partnership. These positions are available immediately. Interested candidates should send their resume to: [email protected] Fax: 617-241-3958 or Phone 617-241-5300 ext: 1166 We will also be available at our new booth at the NEAC show. ROAD/SALES REPS All territories. Contemporary Missy Spring/Summer/Resort line. Moderate. Resort/Hotel/Cruise a major plus. Fax resume to: 305-500-9394 September 2004: JANE’s Seventh Anniversary Issue is the Ultimate Makeunder. SEPTEMBER SHOCKINGLY GOOD NOT SHOCK VALUE PRIMP THOUSANDS OF LIPSTICKS, ONE (BIG) MOUTH DRESS MORE FASHION EXTRA CREDITS MORE MUSIC COVERAGE THAN ANY OTHER WOMEN’S MAG IN HISTORY REBELLIOUS? SO NINETIES The Seven Year Itch. A new girlfriend…without the cheating. On-sale: August 24. Contact Eva Dillon, VP, Publisher at 212.630.3960.
© Copyright 2019