SAKS INC.’S NEW SHAREHOLDER/3 REBOUND AT ST. JOHN/4 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 25, 2007 • $2.00 WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Slope Side PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; MODEL: TASSARA VILACA/TRUMP; HAIR BY DARIA WRIGHT AND MAKEUP BY MICHELLE COURSEY, BOTH AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS Last winter’s warmer-than-usual weather and light snowfall left some in the skiwear business hot under the collar. But, while performance labels suffered, high-end brands with crossover, ready-to-wear appeal managed to thrive. Here, photographed at Aspen Restaurant and Lounge, New York, Bogner Sport’s fox-trimmed coat, worn over Tory Burch’s sequined dress. For more, see pages 6 and 7. The China Syndrome: Senate Steps Up Push For Yuan Revaluation By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — The U.S. government came another step closer Tuesday to taking punitive action against China unless the economic powerhouse reforms its currency, the yuan, and its trade policies. Senators sent out a fresh draft of a bill that targets countries, notably China, that undervalue their currencies, calling on them to take specific steps to reform their policies or ultimately face U.S. and World Trade Organization penalties. The Senate Finance Committee is set to consider amendments to the bill and vote on it Thursday. Global commerce and its impact See Senators, Page 11 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 WWD.COM Fashion Fund Finalists Cover All Bases By Marc Karimzadeh F urther proof there is no shortage of emerging American design talent, this year’s 10 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund are a diverse but well-rounded group, with women’s, men’s and accessories categories represented. The finalists, who were revealed on Tuesday, are Phillip Lim of 3.1 Phillip Lim; Erin Fetherston of Fetherston Design Group; Nunthirat Koi Suwannagate of Koi; Gabriel Asfour, Angela Donhauser and Adi Gil of Threeasfour; Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava; Victoria Bartlett of VPL; Rogan Gregory of Rogan; Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders; Michael Bastian, and Philip Crangi of Philip Crangi Jewelry. The fund, which was founded in 2003 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue magazine, offers emerging talents a cash prize and mentorship programs by top industry leaders. This year, it received 101 applications, the same number of entries as last year. “It was probably one of the strongest list of candidates since we started, and really a difficult process to select only 10,” said Steven Kolb, executive director of the CFDA. “If there was an opportunity to add another three to five, we could have easily done that.” The fund’s selection committee is scheduled to meet with each finalist next month to review their most recent work. The selection committee consists of CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg; Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour; Andrew Rosen, president and founder of Theory; Patrick Robinson, executive vice president of design at Gap Inc.; Reed Krakoff, president and executive vice president of design at Coach Inc.; Jeffrey Kalinsky, president of Jeffrey New York and Jeffrey Atlanta, who also has a senior fashion role at Nordstrom Inc.; Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York; CFDA’s Kolb and its associate director, Lisa Smilor, and Vogue fashion news director Sally Singer. The winner, to be revealed at the 7th on Sale kickoff gala on Nov. 15, will receive a monetary award of $200,000. The two runners-up will receive $50,000 each. All three recipients will be assigned a mentor and receive a year’s worth of managerial guidance and support from a top industry executive. For the first time this year, there also will be a separate business advisory committee, which will review the applications independent of the selection committee. It consists of Paul Aberasturi, Diane von Furstenberg’s chief financial officer; Richard Baker, NRDC Equity Partners’ president and ceo; David McTague, executive vice president of Liz Claiborne Inc.’s partnered brands division; Tom Murry, president and chief operating officer of Calvin Klein Inc., and Stephen Ruzow, president of the Calvin Klein bridge and better women’s sportswear division at Kellwood Co., who will be the committee’s chairman. This committee also will be available to informally mentor the remaining seven finalists, as well as the 30 alums of the fund, for the year. “It’s a way for us to engage more people and expertise,” Kolb said. “Everyone always says that the mentoring is such an important piece. It’s another way to demonstrate the seriousness and importance of the fund.” The fund is sponsored by partner Gap and underwriters Barneys New York, Coach, Juicy Couture, L’Oréal Paris, Nordstrom, Theory, Lord & Taylor, Kellwood, Liz Claiborne and Vogue, as well as donors Mulberry, Diane von Furstenberg and Tommy Hilfiger. Gianluca Brozzetti Quits Asprey LONDON — Gianluca Brozzetti, group chief executive of Asprey, has abruptly departed the company he’s run for the last six years. On Tuesday, an Asprey spokesman would confirm only that Brozzetti, who served as chief executive officer since 2001 and helped rescue the company from bankruptcy last year, had stepped down. An industry source close to Brozzetti, however, said the split with shareholders Sciens Capital Management LLC, a New Yorkbased private equity firm, and Plainfield Asset Management LLC, a Greenwich, Conn., hedge fund, had been “perfectly amicable.” Another industry source said Brozzetti and the chief shareholders “agreed to disagree, and decided to go their separate ways.” The sources said Brozzetti resigned last Friday. Brozzetti, who is also an Asprey shareholder, did not return phone calls Tuesday. As recently as this month, Brozzetti talked to WWD about his plans for the luxury goods brand. He called Asprey a “hidden jewel,” and said he planned to open stores in Moscow and New Delhi, expand further into HILLDUN IS IN FASHION FACTORING ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE FINANCING LETTERS OF CREDIT PURCHASE ORDER FINANCING (212) 244-2600 225 W 35TH STREET, NY NY 10001 Tim Moore Jeffrey Kapelman Gary Wassner (310) 706-4142 1500 ROSECRANS AVE., SUITE 500 MANHATTAN BEACH, CA 90266 Brittany Stapelmann Gianluca Brozzetti PHOTO BY NICK HARVEY/WIREIMAGE By Samantha Conti Asia, and build up the product lines with creative director Hakan Rosenius. Earlier this year, Asprey unveiled the first ready-to-wear line designed by Rosenius. In the spring, the company opened a new shop on Madison Avenue, between 70th and 71st Streets in Manhattan. Speaking like a proud parent, Brozzetti told WWD on July 2: “Five years ago, there were only two points of sale, now there are 20. We have a strategy of catching up with other big luxury brands, but we have to be realistic.” For the last fiscal year ended March 31, Asprey’s sales were $42 million, and while Brozzetti said they were good results, he admitted, “There is still a long way to go.” An experienced fashion and luxury goods executive, Brozzetti took over the ceo’s role at Asprey & Garrard in 2001, after the company was purchased by Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou in 2000. Before that, he was president and ceo of Louis Vuitton. Prior to Vuitton, Brozzetti worked for Bulgari Group for 13 years, first as executive director of its watch and jewelry divi- sion and from 1993 as executive vice president of its fragrance division. His career has covered various positions at Procter & Gamble Co., McKinsey & Co. and the Gucci Group. But it was his role as ceo of A&G Group, the now-dissolved parent of the Asprey and Garrard brands, that tested his managerial mettle. Although Stroll and Chou embarked on their Asprey and Garrard project with much fanfare — and a lot of splashy spending — the brands never turned a profit. In fact, they were ever-deepening money pits. Stroll and Chou brought in new shareholders, including Edgar Bronfman Jr., Morgan Stanley Private Equity and the TAG Group to keep the companies afloat, but to no avail. In 2005, just a year after Asprey opened a huge flagship on Fifth Avenue in New York and reopened on Bond Street — at 40,000 square feet, it was Europe’s largest luxury goods store — the company’s shareholders were already bickering about who would make the next cash injection. They began quietly shopping the brands around. While the shareholders argued, it was Brozzetti who took over the rescue mission. He and his team got Deloitte on board and, with the blessing of HSBC and the other banks, put A&G Group into receivership. Brozzetti sold the brands in a debt-for-equity swap, with the value of the business effectively nil. Sciens Capital Management and Plainfield Asset Management paid an estimated $80 million to $100 million for both brands. Three days later, Asprey International, the newly minted parent of both brands, spun off Garrard to Ron Burkle’s Yucaipa Companies for an estimated $20 million to $30 million. WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear FASHION 6 Last year’s light, late snow season in much of the country served as a wake-up call for skiwear manufacturers and retailers. 1 2 2 3 4 4 8 14 The Senate is set to take up legislation that calls for potential punitive action against China if it fails to reform its currency and trade policies. GENERAL Gianluca Brozzetti, group chief executive officer of Asprey, has abruptly departed the company he has run for the last six years. The 10 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund are a diverse, wellrounded group, with women’s, men’s and accessories all represented. Icelandic investment group Baugur, which has shares in London’s PPQ and Matthew Williamson, has taken an 8.1 percent stake in Saks Inc. Aeffe SpA shares fizzled in their stock market debut Tuesday, losing 4.6 percent on their first day of trading. After a year of wooing back customers and reworking product, sales at St. John are rising and retailers appear encouraged. MAINSTREAM: Swimwear was a round-the-clock affair in Miami Beach, with the Swimshow during the day and IMG fashion shows every night. WEST: Aioli Co., a $100 million South Korea apparel maker, is revving up its U.S. profile in a prelude to an initial public offering. Obituaries..........................................................................................12 Classified Advertisements.............................................................15-19 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is firstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 17. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. In Brief ● BURMA STILL BANNED: The Senate and House have approved a resolution to extend a ban on all imports from Burma, also known as Myanmar, for another year. President Bush signed a bill banning all imports, mostly apparel, in July 2003 in response to a crackdown by the country’s military dictatorship on the elected opposition. Deteriorating human rights conditions had prompted U.S. apparel importers to voluntarily halt business with Burma, where the military has invested in garment production. ● TIME FOR A CURE: For the second year, Guess Watches has teamed up with the Susan G. Komen for the Cure organization to offer a G2G Sparkling Pink Guess watch. Retailing for $100, the watch is an adjustable bangle style with a steel linked bracelet adorned with G Guess logos. It’s decorated with 81 pink Swarovski stones designed in the shape of the breast cancer ribbons. From September until March, Guess and Guess Watches will guarantee a minimum donation of $25,000 to the charity in honor of breast cancer awareness. In addition, Guess and Guess Watches will donate 20 percent of the proceeds from each watch sold. They are available at Guess retail stores throughout the U.S. and Canada and guess.com. Last September, Guess introduced its first Sporting Pink watch to support the breast cancer charity, and the following month it became the number-one selling watch at Guess retail stores. Since the initial collaboration, Guess and Guess Watches have donated $54,700 to Susan G. Komen for the Cure. WWD. COM News In Real Time Get instant access to everything you need to know about the fashion and retailing business. WWD.com is the gateway to the WWD Archive, more than 80,000 stories dating back to 1994. For more information, visit wwd.com. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 3 WWD.COM Baugur Builds 8.1% Stake in Saks LONDON — Icelandic investment firm Baugur Group has accumulated an 8.1 percent stake in Saks Fifth Avenue, becoming the luxury chain’s second largest investor. Baugur spent about $250 million, or $22 a share, to invest in Saks over the past few weeks, according to Securities and Exchange Commission filings. Baugur’s strategy for Saks is unclear. A Baugur spokesman declined to comment on whether the group intends to further build up its stake in Saks and seek control of the business. A source close to the company said that was not Baugur’s strategy. However, Aslaug Magnusdottir, vice president at Marvin Traub Associates, who formerly ran Baugur’s venture business unit, observed: “If you look at the history of Baugur, it could go either way. There are examples of the company building up stakes in public businesses to [ultimately] control them, and examples of taking stakes in companies they believe to be undervalued and later selling the interest.” Magnusdottir also noted that Baugur has expressed intentions to expand internationally. Saks had no comment. “It’s our policy not to comment on shareholders,” said Julia Bentley, senior vice president of investor relations and communications at Saks Inc., the parent of Saks Fifth Avenue. Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim Helú, with other family members and through Immobiliaria Carso SA De CV, remains the largest shareholder with nearly 13.3 mil- Vuitton Turns Windows Over to Students PHOTO BY MAZEN SAGGAR By Miles Socha A View of the Vuitton windows. PARIS — The kids are in control at Louis Vuitton — at least for the holiday windows. Instead of collaborating with a high-profile contemporary artist, as it has in recent years, the French luxury giant tapped two young graphic design students from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design to decorate its more than 370 stores during the crucial selling period. After commissioning the likes of Olafur Eliasson, Ugo Rondinone and Robert Wilson to imagine its Christmas displays, Vuitton organized a design competition at the famous school, asking students to draw inspiration from Vuitton’s history and image. The winners, 21-year-old Christopher Lawson from Ireland and 26-year-old Marcos Villalba from Spain, took the location of Vuitton’s historic Asnières workshop on a map as a starting point, re-creating its contours into an abstract landscape. The windows will be unveiled in London in early November and displayed throughout the holiday period. “This year, we decided to give emerging talents the chance to freely express themselves and their vision of the brand,” said Yves Carcelle, chairman and chief executive of Louis Vuitton. Central Saint Martins, which offers courses in fine art, fashion, graphics, 3-D design and performance, has produced such designers as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. lion shares, or 9.3 percent. Baugur is the largest institutional investor, followed by FMR Corp. at 10.5 million shares, or 7.38 percent of outstanding shares. Baugur’s interest in Saks is hardly surprising. Last summer, Baugur led a consortium that took over midmarket U.K. department store chain House of Fraser. It has since taken House of Fraser private. Baugur also holds a 5 percent stake in midmarket U.K. department store retailer Debenhams, but Baugur said in a statement last week it had no intention to bid for the British chain. Magnusdottir and another source concurred that Baugur may use its stake in Saks to help introduce its fashion labels into the U.S. market. Baugur Group’s other British investments include the jewelry retailer Goldsmiths and the toy emporium Hamleys; women’s apparel chains Jane Norman and MK One, and Mosaic Fashions, which incorporates Karen Millen and Whistles. Late last year, Baugur chief Jon Asgeir Johannesson said he was planning to open a U.S. office in 2007, and to make acquisitions in the U.S. Baugur’s other fashion investments include a minority stake in Matthew Williamson, and a 50 percent stake in PPQ, a label designed by Percy Parker and Amy Molyneaux. Saks stock closed at $20.40 Tuesday on the New York Stock Exchange, down 77 cents from $21.17 the day before. MEMO PAD LEADING THE DISCUSSIONS: While CNN anchor Anderson Cooper was a logical choice to moderate the YouTube-CNN presidential debate on Monday, the Rupert Murdoch-owned MySpace may choose more unconventional hosts to lead its Town Hall discussions with 2008 candidates. Sources say Ivanka Trump is being courted to serve as one of the moderators for the dozen or so upcoming MySpace discussions to be held at college campuses across the country. Wendi Deng, wife of Murdoch, the founder and chief executive of News Corp., suggested the idea to Trump, believing the real estate mogul and occasional columnist for lad mag Stuff would be a great representative of the young, educated and upwardly mobile voting population, a source close to News Corp. said. Beginning in September, MySpace will host a series of hour-long conversations during which one presidential candidate will field questions sent by viewers at home via the site’s instant messenger service. The talks will be broadcast live via the site. Participants will include Sam Brownback, Hillary Clinton, John Edwards, Rudy Giuliani, Duncan Hunter, John McCain, Barack Obama, Mitt Romney and Tommy Thompson. Sources say it has not yet been decided whether the broadcast also will appear on Fox News. Trump and a MySpace spokeswoman declined to comment. — Stephanie D. Smith COVER GIRL: In August, Jennifer Lopez landed the cover of Glamour, but come September, her face will be attached to 16 different Condé Nast titles. The actress is the cover girl for Fashion Rocks, the outsert that will be attached to Glamour, Vogue, W, Allure, Self, Teen Vogue, GQ, Details, Men’s Vogue, Architectural Digest, Lucky, Domino, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveler, Wired and The New Yorker. The magazine promises “models on nearly every page” and articles on artists such as Amy Winehouse, Carrie Underwood and Sean Lennon. A spokeswoman said ad pages will range from 75 to 100 in each issue, which is 15 percent more than last year. All will be revealed on Friday, when magazines start hitting subscribers’ mailboxes. — Amy Wicks BUMPING UP: Marie Claire editor in chief Joanna Coles has replaced outgoing senior fashion editor Eric Nicholson by promoting fashion editor Zanna Roberts. Roberts joined the magazine in October, but before that served for seven years at the title’s British edition, most recently as beauty and style editor. She also was responsible for tapping Helena Christensen to shoot photographs of supermodels which appeared in a photo feature in the August issue, and at the charity event Marie Claire held last week at Milk Gallery in New York. Apparently Coles, a British transplant, appreciates those with similar roots — in May, Coles hired Suzanne Sykes as creative director to replace Paul Martinez. Sykes most recently served as art director for Britain’s weekly Grazia, and helped launch the British edition of Marie Claire. — S.D.S. Banana Republic Ads Go Refined, Contemporary for Fall The ads, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier and styled by Joe Zee for the campaign themed Urban Refined, will appear in magazines such rban style for the creative class sums up as Vogue, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Elle Banana Republic’s sensibility for fall, which Decor. The images also will run in newspapers, on will play out in a fashion offering designed to sugbillboards and kiosks in major metropolitan areas gest refinement and in the contemporary art and and online at Yahoo HotJobs on a site slated to go graphic images portrayed in its advertising, stores live in August. and products. Reproductions of 54 works by 16 artists are to “Our customers are creative souls, inspired by be featured in Banana’s stores, including those art and culture,” said Chris Nicklo, vice president of by oil painter Liz Gribin, graphic artist James marketing at Banana Republic, referring to the reWelling, digital artist Anne Sophie Stark and oil tailer’s information about its consumers’ mind-set. painter and photographer Jack Pierson. Framed art The ad campaign’s creative director, Raul pieces eventually will be sharing shelf space with Martinez, was challenged in the campaign to conBanana’s clothing and hung on the walls of all of its nect Banana Republic with a group he called the locations in the U.S., Japan, Indonesia, Singapore creative class. The effort to do so hinged on his and the Middle East. idea of abstracting the bold prints in the brand’s Subsequent marketing campaigns will integrate fall collection into works of art — art that will be Banana’s fashion with other aspects of American precursors to the reproductions of contemporary Banana’s fall campaign merges fashion with America’s cultural scene. culture, possibly music, theater or books. “The link paintings Banana began to place last week in some between the brand and art and culture will go on of its 450 stores. “The product is hero, but we are merging it with the cultural scene,” Martinez for the next two to three seasons, at a minimum,” projected Nicklo, who pointed out said. “The boldness of the [fashion] prints inspired us to bring that into a painterly the retailer’s historic links with the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of Modern Art in New York. space — mainly black-and-white prints with lots of polkadots, florals, stripes.” By Valerie Seckler U 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 WWD.COM St. John Clicking as It Turns 45 IRVINE, Calif. — After a year of wooing back customers and reworking product, sales at St. John are rising and retailers appear encouraged. The $400 million company based here says it has something to celebrate as it marks 45 years in business. Looking ahead, St. John plans brand extensions into shoes, jewelry, handbags, eyewear and eventually fragrance, as well as a facelift for stores. “Sales are up and our wholesale partners are pleased,’’ interim chief executive officer Bruce Fetter said. “The customer has been responding well to prefall and we’ve seen that through interaction and improved sell-through.” Ann Stordahl, executive vice president of women’s apparel at Neiman Marcus, echoed Fetter. “[Sell-through] has been very strong,’’ she said. “We have had a marketing campaign to target the core St. John customer who may have temporarily left the brand or was buying less, and we have had good results starting with the pre-fall collection. Our core customers have been purchasing more than they have in the past. Customers are very aware of [co-founder] Marie Gray being back and are very excited by that.” Stordahl said the customers are most pleased with St. John’s return to a traditional fit. “The change in fit was the biggest hindrance to sales, and customers are now telling us they are very comfortable with the new fit…the evolution of the brand, the new marketing and the strength of the dress classification, which has had a bigger penetration in the brand, has all helped.” Debbie Palazzo, president of Miss Jackson’s in Tulsa, Okla., which has been selling St. John for decades, said, “You can see the difference very quickly. It’s probably too early to tell on a long-term basis, but we are very encouraged and pleased with the new direction [of the line].” Fetter attributed the brand’s change of fortune to Kelly and Marie Gray Bruce Fetter and Lowell Breving chief merchant and head of design Lowell Breving, and Marie Gray and her daughter, former creative director Kelly Gray, who are consulting. The Grays, along with Fetter, who had been co-president and chief operating officer, and vice president of design Maria D. Lopez all returned to St. John after the departure of Richard Cohen as president and ceo in April 2006. Part of Cohen’s strategy to reverse shrinking profits was to entice younger customers to St. John, a plan that fell short. Many newer styles met resistance from loyal and mature customers, who said the designs didn’t have the same quality and fit as their previous St. John clothes. “Most of our designers have been here prior to the Richard Cohen days and they understand the custom- RUNWAY PHOTOS BY NICOLAS LEMERY NANTEL; FRONT ROW BY DONATO SARDELLA By Marcy Medina Looks from the 45th anniversary collection. er,” Fetter said. St. John, which is still seeking a permanent ceo, implemented a “win back” program targeting its best customers. “We took a real rifle-shot look at our most loyal customers who had not been shopping as of late, and we reached out to them with special marketing materials and incentives to let them know St. John is back doing the kinds of things they would recognize,” Fetter said. To celebrate the milestone year, the company created an anniversary collection of signature knits inspired by classic styles in the St. John archives. The gold, silver and black pieces will hit stores in September. “It’s a lively collection based on a lot of the vintage pieces Mrs. Gray started the line with,’’ Kelly Gray said. “There is a lot of eyelet and stitching detail and very fluid, deconstructed silhouettes. It’s versatile and seasonless and the metallics bring to mind anniversaries and celebration.” Also in September, the company will stage another runway show in Orange County to present its resort and spring collections. The company, in partnership with the Susan G. Komen for the Cure organization, created the St. John Collection for a Cause, eight limited edition looks in pink with dark brown and cream accents that will go on sale in St. John boutiques in October, with 10 percent of proceeds going to the foundation dedicated to finding a cure for breast cancer. “Mom, Lowell and I agonized for weeks over that pink, and we changed our minds three times before we decided on it,’’ Kelly Gray said. “We wanted the line to integrate with what we’ve done for fall.” The company is also venturing back into nonclothing categories. Shoes and jewelry will be back in boutiques for holiday, handbags and eyewear around Jan. 1. The company has found licensing partners, but declined to disclose them. “We would rather make a big splash with our partners,” Fetter said, adding that St. John is also looking to reenter the fragrance market. Although the product seems to be finding a balance again (the classic suits are more visible in the latest batch of ads starring Angelina Jolie), the stores are due for freshening. The appointment of former Cole Haan and Nordstrom executive Rick Chilcott as executive vice president of retail comes as the company is working to create a prototype for a new look. It should be completed in four months, then installed in three stores: at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., in Dallas and Palm Beach, Fla. “The idea is to take a look at three different-sized stores and see how concepts work in different formats and from there we will develop strategies to take the concepts further,’’ Fetter said. “We’ll have to see how the customer responds before implementing it in other locations.” Aeffe SpA Shares Decline 4.6 Percent in First Day of Trading By Amanda Kaiser MILAN — Aeffe SpA shares fizzled in their stock market debut Tuesday, losing 4.6 percent on their first day of trading. Already last week it was evident the IPO, Italy’s first fashion stock market offering in years, wasn’t sparking a great deal of investor interest. Despite demand for nearly double the amount of shares on offer, Aeffe shares were priced at 4.10 euros ($5.66 at current exchange) a share, the bottom end of the initial valuation range. Aeffe shares slid 4.6 percent to close at 3.91 euros ($5.41) on the exchange. They underperformed the overall market, which shed 1.8 percent on Tuesday. Few analysts are covering the stock since Aeffe is a relatively small company. Alfredo Mele, a manager at financial Web site ipo.it, said Aeffe’s price-to-earnings ratio is significantly more expensive than that of its luxury peers, including Mariella Burani Fashion Group SpA, Valentino Fashion Group SpA and Tod’s SpA. “[Aeffe] offers too vast a range of brands and strategic messages to…warrant the valuation levels the company is asking of the market right now,” Mele said. Regardless of the shares’ performance, the IPO still generated about 78 million euros ($107.64 million) for Aeffe’s coffers. As reported, the company plans to use the IPO-generated funds to develop its portfolio of fashion brands, including Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini. It also has a licensing deal to produce ready-to-wear for Jean Paul Gaultier. Although Aeffe’s debut was a difficult one, it doesn’t necessarily reflect a dearth of market appetite for luxury goods companies. With annual sales of 275 million euros ($346.5 million), Aeffe is considerably smaller than Prada SpA and Salvatore Ferragamo SpA, both of which are also eyeing stock market listings. The firm also lacks the international profile of many other brands. “Alberta Ferretti and Moschino are more like niche brands and evidently they didn’t succeed in winning over investors,” Mele said. An Aeffe spokeswoman said the company is monitoring the shares’ performance and withholding any further comments until it issues second-quarter results on Friday. SKREBNESKI PHOTOGRAPH AUGUST 11-14, 2007 FEATURING THOUSANDS OF APPAREL AND ACCESSORY LINES FOUR DAYS ONE CONVENIENT SHOW FLOOR RUNNING CONCURRENTLY WITH AUGUST 12-14, 2007 HRSP_WWD_FullPgAd.indd 1 merchandisemart.com/stylemax 800.677.6278 4/30/07 4:40:05 PM 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 Snow Daze Eider’s jacket, top and pants. Adidas by Stella McCartney boots. L idea that we “sellThewinter clothing that works back home…is one reason we continue to do well despite lower snow years. ” DROPPING INCHES When it comes to snowfall, more is always merrier for ski resorts. Unfortunately, that was not the case across the country last season. CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN, WASH. 2006-2007(season): 433(inches) 2005-2006: 468 ALTA, UTAH 2006-2007: 2005-2006: 402 641 SQUAW VALLEY, CALIF. 2006-2007: 369 2005-2006: 628 SNOWBIRD, UTAH 2006-2007: 2005-2006: 352 583 VAIL, COLO. 2006-2007: 2005-2006: 347 432 STEAMBOAT, COLO. 2006-2007: 327 2005-2006: 432 BRECKENRIDGE, COLO. 2006-2007: 268 2005-2006: 456 MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN, CALIF. 2006-2007: 231 2005-2006: 668 STOWE, VT. 2006-2007: 2005-2006: 156 243 SUN VALLEY, IDAHO 2006-2007: 146 2005-2006: 360 SOURCE: INDIVIDUAL SKI RESORTS PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERT MITRA AT ASPEN RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE, NEW YORK; MODELS: TASSARA VILACA AND CLAUDIA WAGNER, BOTH AT TRUMP; HAIR BY DARIA WRIGHT AND MAKEUP BY MICHELLE COURSEY, BOTH AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: KRYSTIN CORINO; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS collar, sell-throughs of Bogner goods at stores last season were up 10 percent; its initial sales going into next season are already up 15 et it snow — early. That’s the hope of businesses catering percent, before reorders, which typically take to the ski crowd this winter. Whether isolated place in November and February. “As somebad luck or the result of global warming, last one really in the high-end market, our retailyear’s light, late snow season in much of the ers sell way before Christmas, before people country served as a wake-up call for skiwear realize what type of winter they will get,” said manufacturers and retailers who are discov- Peter Born, president of Bogner of America. That said, Bogner is taking considerable ering the dramatic downside of hyperspecialization. Many of the dozen ski-centric stores measures to cope with the threat of global WWD surveyed suffered their worst season warming. Sportswear offerings now make up 20 in years, with some reporting retail sales dips percent of its merchandise, a component Bogner of more than 30 percent. The lone bright spot: expects to reach 50 percent in the next three to five years. But the firm is the luxury sector, in which not just focused on the bothigh-end specialty stores in tom line. “Whether what resort towns are coming off we experienced this year is a strong year, success they because of global warming, attribute to the fashionable I can’t judge. But the overall merchandise that transpicture shows global warmlates well off the mouning is definitely an issue,” tain, as well as to a base of said Born. “We started thinkconsumers whose buying ing about this fact years ago, habits are not tied to local and we started a program insnow conditions. ternally because we believe Tom Bowers, owner of everyone can do something Tommy Bowers Ski in Vail, about this issue.” Colo., and Performance For example, Bogner Ski in Aspen, Colo., says gives its employees $500 if his businesses rarely sufthey purchase fuel-efficient fer from weak snow years, — Tom Bowers, cars, and the company reand that he has increased designed a limited his open-to-buy 10 percent Tommy Bowers Ski cently edition jacket (shown on for the upcoming season. page one). The jacket is “We don’t find drops in sales from lower snow falls,” Bowers said. “The technically a ski coat, but fashionable for daily people who come to our shop don’t necessarily wear, and 10 percent of the revenues will go to have to ski 100 days to warrant buying an outfit. Al Gore’s “The Climate Project.” Boulder, Colo.-based Spyder also enjoyed Just the thought of skiing is worth buying a few outfits.” Bowers invests about half his buy into strong growth last year, according to the North “stuff that is functional on the hill and is also American director of sales Jeff Sale, who refashionable around town,” such as Moncler, Post ports that bookings are up 30 percent over Card of Italy, Matador and Prada. “The idea that last year. Nevertheless, regional sales were we sell winter clothing that works back home in impacted by the amount of snow. According to New York City or in Des Moines, Iowa, is one Sale, business in the Rockies and Northwest, reason we continue to do well despite lower which had strong snow, were vibrant, while the Northeast, upper Midwest and eastern Canada snow years,” he said. For Newport, Vt.-based Bogner, mean- suffered weaker snow and thus poorer sales. Weather-related deficiencies were mitigated while, where the standard ski jacket wholesales from $400 to $700, but can go as high as by cross-regional sales facilitated by spyder.com, $4,000 for a jacket with a removable sable fur and, Sale said, by the firm’s strong reputation By Whitney Beckett WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 7 WWD.COM Prada’s jacket, sweater and pants. Fashion Scoops AFTER HOURS: Prada will be among those spicing up the post-show party scene during New York Fashion Week. On the heels of last year’s performance by Jack White’s The Raconteurs, the Milan house plans to host another bash at its SoHo store on Sept. 7, this time with a private concert by new rockers The Hours. Last year’s shindig was a celebrity magnet, with the likes of Orlando Bloom, Liv Tyler, Eva Mendes, Mischa Barton, Winona Ryder, Jennifer Jason Leigh and Lisa Marie Presley rocking to the tunes. This year, there could be a sighting of Damien Hirst, who is friends with The Hours’ Antony Genn and Martin Slattery, and financed their debut album. He also created the skull image for the album cover. DOLLED UP: Alber Elbaz is giving the concept of collectable fashion a new twist. The Lanvin designer has teamed up with the Taiwanese craftsman Franz to create a series of miniature porcelain dolls wearing signature looks from his collection. The hand-painted, stiletto-wearing figurines, starting with this fall-winter season, will each be produced in a limited series of 800 and cost 250 euros, or $345, a pop. From left: The North Face’s coat and pants and Dsquared’s sweater. Erin Snow’s coat, blouse and knickers. Hue tights; Joan & David shoes. CRYSTAL BALL: Industry veteran Hervé Martin, most recently product general manager of Ferragamo, has exited the Florentine firm. According to market sources, he is headed to Starwood in a senior management role. He could not be reached for comment. Martin is perhaps best known as the longtime president of Kenzo. He has also worked at Louis Vuitton and Cartier. GOOD CLEAN FUN: Maggie Gyllenhaal will have the chance to show off any noirish tendencies in the upcoming Batman sequel “The Dark Knight,” but the actress was all sunshine and smiles last week in Nantucket, Mass. The actress and Peter Sarsgaard stole away with their daughter Ramona to one of The Summer House’s fishermen’s cottages in Sconset. After dining at the Summer House Restaurant, Gyllenhaal, Agent Provocateur’s new poster girl, and her beau sidled up to the piano to sing along with other diners. From left: Jacket from Moncler Gamme Rouge and Helly Hansen’s pants. Burton’s jacket, top and pants. Adidas by Stella McCartney boots; Oakley sunglasses. among retailers. “There’s always some place with good snow,” said Sale. “In those areas where it is difficult, the strength of our brand carries us through. When stores make their buy, they will invest in the brands that they know will sell through, and the smaller brands are the last to be bought.” Erin Snow, whose ski jackets wholesale from $350 to $600, is one such smaller brand. According to founder Erin Isakov, all of the firm’s merchandise can do double-duty off the slopes. In addition, it’s launching a sportswear collection for winter. “We’ve had a twofold experience this year,” said Isakov. “Our existing retailers, which are top-end retailers carrying luxury ski brands, weren’t as affected by the weather because it’s early in, early out. Their customer is one who doesn’t wait until she needs something — she buys it when she sees something she loves. “On the other hand, picking up new accounts, stores that sell a mix of high- and midtier brands, those retailers were really hardest hit, and we haven’t been able to open many new accounts because of the weather. Those retailers are sitting on so much stock from last season that they will just be selling that, cutting back existing accounts and definitely not adding new vendors.” One line has already dropped out of the winter lineup. Orders were too small to justify production, so Ellesse put its luxury ski line, which relaunched after a decade-long hiatus, on hold until 2008. Retailers focusing on midpriced lines have also found rough going. Sundown Ski & Surf in Levittown, N.Y., which saw its margins fall 30 to 40 percent, will return last year’s basic stock to the floor, according to buyer Heather McVicar. Danzeisen & Quigley, a ski store in Cherry Hill, N.J., saw even more stunning decreases in sales — a full 50 percent — and as a result cut this year’s opento-buys by the same amount. The store will also return unsold inventory to the floor. “There were not enough customers to know if it’s last year’s [product] or not,” buyer Gretchen Quigley said ruefully. Jackson Dill, the owner of Sportif Ltd. in Greenwich, Conn., concurs. “I’ve had this business for 25 years, and this is by far the worst season we’ve ever had,” he said. “If it’s 60 degrees Christmas week, you can run ads all day and people won’t come in. When you don’t have a winter until late January, there’s not an immediate need for ski apparel. You get to a point in the season where you have to salvage somehow, some way, and put clothing on sale early, so our window is greatly diminished.” Sportif suffered a 28 percent drop in sales for winter, and initial open-to-buys this year are down 35 percent in clothing and more than 50 percent in hard goods. “One of the things you learn is you have to be very tight when you buy. We look for what customers responded to early [last year],” Dill said. “If next year is anything like this year, it will be devastating for this industry as a whole.” COMING OF AGE: Christos Garkinos and Cameron Silver, co-owners of Los Angeles designer consignment store Decadestwo, hosted a party last Wednesday night to celebrate the boutique’s recent expansion, followed by cocktails at Social Hollywood that drew the likes of Garcelle Beauvais, Alyson Hannigan and Joely Richardson. China Chow, dressed in a vintage black lace Lanvin dress, couldn’t resist perusing the store’s new inventory, which includes a rack of Tom Ford-era Gucci pieces. “When I come into the store, I act like I work here,” she joked. “I’m in the back rifling through things, telling them to take things off of eBay.” Ali Larter, clad in a Balenciaga jacket and vintage Levi’s, shared Chow’s enthusiasm for the store. “I’m always here,” she said. “I pop in on random Tuesdays at 10 o’clock when I need something yummy.” Jared Leto dropped by to lend support to his mother, Constance Leto, whose jewelry line, Linda + Constance, was on display. Leaning over the glass case of baubles, Leto pointed to a small cluster. “Look at this nice little pile of sold things,” he said with pride. Silver, who recently returned from consulting stints in Europe for companies including Pringle and Samsonite, said, “It feels like we’re really grown-up now. Combined, Decades and Decadestwo are 18 years old — we’re finally legal!” SHOW TIME: Commuun, the rising eco-oriented, Paris-based brand designed by Japanese duo Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate, will be staging its first show this October. The brand recently scooped up two Andam awards from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Longchamp that will help finance the show. “The collection will be much lighter with lots of transparency,” commented Hori. Since starting out in 2006, Commuun has sold its clothes in stores such as Corso Como 10 in Italy and Dover Street Market. New accounts tapped since the launch of the brand’s first pre-collection for spring 2008 include L’Eclaireur in Paris and Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. MINI PHAT: Russell and Kimora Lee Simmons aren’t the only designers in the Phat Fashions empire. Their daughters, Ming Lee, seven, and Aoki Lee, four, are fast becoming designers in their own right. The sisters will launch their own collection, called Ming and Aoki, at a tea party and runway show at their mom’s Baby Phat showroom this morning. Event organizers hinted the launch will be sweet-filled, with a Candy Land theme, to showcase the new children’s collection. GIRL POWER: Fashionistas made room for actionistas last Thursday when Warner Bros. celebrated the latest collection of apparel and accessories for its Supergirl brand at action sports shop Nine Star in Los Angeles. Hosted by a committee of female athletes, including pro surfers Holly Beck and Serena Brooke and seven-year-old skater Alize Montes, the party highlighted the famous S-shield recast in pink, white and purple on women’sonly items such as $54 string bikinis from Rip Curl and a $30 T-shirt from Surf Diva. Celebrity guest Brooke Burke, who knows about taking risks as the former skydiving and crocodile-fighting host of adventure TV show “Wild On,” said she hopes her three daughters, who range in age from six months to seven years, will grow up to be supergirls. “The most daring of all is the sixmonth-old,” Burke said. Warner Bros. plans to nurture more actionistas when it will host an all-girl action sports jam mixing music, fashion and athletic activities including a surf demo and skateboarding in San Diego on Sept. 16. 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 WWD.COM In the Mainstream Miami Swimshow Doubles as Beach Bash Exhibitors, chastened by all the dark-colored swimwear last year that didn’t sell well, made sure they had MIAMI BEACH — Swimwear was a round-the-clock af- plenty of color in their collections, especially red, orfair here this month with the Swimshow during the day, ange, yellow and a range of blues. Prints were inspired by modern art, geometric IMG Fashion shows running in three tents every night and enough after parties to test the endurance of the shapes and vintage designs, and often combined with stripes, dots and other treatments. most enthusiastic South Beach reveler. Despite less overt embellishment than recent years, It all began with a lavish kickoff July 10 at the Raleigh Hotel, where IMG Fashion, sponsored by shine and glitz were still alive, from fabric treatments Mercedes-Benz, set up three tent venues for 16 fashion such as foils and metallics to hardware. Metal trimmed shows July 10 to 14. Models paraded around the shal- suits in rings, studs, crystals and rhinestones. One-piece silhouettes returned, though mostly in low water of the huge pool’s perimeter, while The Beach Boys performed live to an audience of 800, who partied cutout shapes with deep plunges. Bikinis featured more high-waisted, belted bottoms and overpoolside afterward. the-shoulder tops. Exhibitors expanded “Our shows are about the mediacollections, particularly cover-ups. Internet attention,” said Fern Mallis, se“We’re encouraging retailers to show nior vice president of IMG Fashion, who swimwear and cover-ups together on the added that celebrities John Stamos and floor and as a story, rather than sepaTyson Beckford attended, adding to the rate them, which makes no sense,” said buzz, along with Jessica Simpson, who Lynne Koplin, president of women’s at walked the runway July 14 to launch her Tommy Bahama. own swimwear line at The Shore Club. Other lines emphasized the imporMallis said of the 16 lines at IMG, which tance of reaching the consumer through included Badgley Mischka, Red Carter and marketing. Jantzen, which relaunched its Ashley Paige, one-third were international, line last year based on archival collecsuch as Cia.Maritima, a Brazilian line. tions, spent $5 million on marketing and Lycra brought a refreshing twist to will increase that budget this year, said IMG’s tents July 11, with “Reality Beach.” Lori Medici, vice president of marketing. Lycra solicited real women from the Product and fit, rather than specific Miami area to attend swimwear fit clincategories or brands, drove buying deics July 10 and 11 with Bobbie Thomas, cisions at Everything But Water, the host of Style Network’s “Fashion Police.” Orlando-based swimwear chain that with Fifteen local women, all ages and sizes, two recent acquisitions added 30 stores were selected to walk the runway July 11 A look from Jets by for a total of 72 stores nationwide. in swimsuits made with Xtra Life Lycra. Jessika Allen at the “Swim is an ageless business and “Trying on a swimsuit is the most horkickoff fashion show in product drives it,” said buyer Bridget rible, scary thing a woman can do,” said a tent at Nikki Beach. Strickline. “Brand is important, but it Iris Revson, 49, who strutted her stuff in a doesn’t trump fit. A suit can have no big sexy black swimsuit with gold studs, along with her 18-year-old daughter, who also modeled in the name, but perfect fit and women will buy it.” Buyers from EBW, including the new president, show. “This suit makes me proud of my good features. It Sheila Arnold, shopped the show for five full days, takmakes me feel hot.” Ninabeth Sowell, marketing manager for Invista, ing in the new trends. They were most pleased to see makers of Lycra, said, “Our biggest challenge is reach- the return of color, including orange, coral, blues and ing and educating the consumer. We know that fit is the purples, after last year’s dark palettes. Strickline also noted the “return of bling,” though most important thing to them.” At the Miami Beach Convention Center, fit and the in more refined versions than previous seasons, with search for color and new trend direction were foremost chains, hardware and sequined treatments. She liked on buyers’ minds as they got their first look at Swimshow the option of cutout, one-piece suits, which she said 2008. Sponsored by the Swimwear Association of “are working at retail, for most customers.” To battle mounting competition from discounters and Florida, the show ran July 11 to 15 and celebrated its promotional department stores, some specialty retailers 25th anniversary with 350 exhibitors. An estimated 2,000 buyers attended, up 15 percent were seeking higher price lines, providing they have what compared with last year, said Judy Stein, executive it takes to make consumers willing to shell out big bucks. “Other stores can sell $29 suits, break price early show director. The Swimshow kicked off with a 218-piece fashion and offer coupons,’’ said Merrill Levin, owner of show, attended by 1,400 people, held in a tent at Nikki Shirley & Co., a swimwear and resortwear store in Newtown, Pa., a Philadelphia suburb. “We’re specifiBeach, a trendy South Beach nightspot. Rosa Chá’s resort collection, shown during IMG’s MercedesBenz Fashion Week Miami Swim. A style from Zimmermann’s resort collection. JETS PHOTO BY ROBERT CLARK; ZIMMERMANN BY PETER RICHARDSON FOR RED EYE PRODUCTIONS; CHA BY DAN LECCA By Georgia Lee cally targeting upscale customers.” Citing Betsey Johnson, Becca, Karla Colletto, Gottex and Maryan Mehlhorn as those that are resonating with customers, Levin said she also focuses on year-round stock, full-size ranges and customer service Ben Schwartz, owner of Sunset Bay, a Chicago swimwear store, also noted a return to glitz, in foil treatments and sequins. He praised lines such as Karla Colletto “that don’t need embellishment, but rely on great design and fit.” Schwartz bought Becca for its innovative prints and Betsey Johnson’s vibrant blue and gold groups, and bustier silhouettes. Susan Kaplan, owner of Teen Heaven in North Palm Beach, Fla., said, “Fashion has been turned up a notch. Better fabrics, embroidery and crystals are all things that justify the higher prices manufacturers are asking for suits.” Kaplan said the industry had “cracked the $100 ceiling,” with customers paying more than $100 retail for swimwear. Describing her customer as “toe-dippers” rather than hard-core surfers or beach girls, she bought fashion-forward swimwear, such as a lobster print bikini from Red Carter, print separates from LSpace, and sophisticated embellished suits with jewel details from Luli Fama. Being Domenico Vacca t’s a week after the screening of Glenn Close’s new FX drama “Damages” and designer Domenico Vacca is still aflutter from watching the actress transform into ruthless lawyer Patty Hewes. “I had goose bumps,” he says. (The show debuted on television Tuesday night.) Of course, Vacca has more reason than most to be excited by cable’s latest leading lady. Close goes through 12 costume changes in the pilot, always clad in Domenico Vacca, from head to alligator-heeled toe. “She was perfect — spot-on,” Vacca says. “And not because she looked good — she looked good for the part.” The Italian rattles off a list of high-powered workwear Close dons from his collection: silk shirts, cashmere bouclé suits, overcoats. In fact, perhaps no designer was more equipped to dress Close’s litigating lass than Vacca — he himself spent 10 years as a successful attorney. It was the designer’s seamstress grandmother, Nicoletta Orciula, who introduced him to fashion and also sent him with a swift boot-kick toward his lengthy stint in law. Orciula had her own dressmaking business in Italy and, thus, Vacca spent his childhood “among tailoring tables.” But she also warned him against a career in fashion. “She said, ‘Don’t do anything that has to do with this,’ ” he recalls. “‘It’s a lot of work, and you’re never going to become wealthy.’” So he eventually became a lawyer and landed a job in Milan with Baker & McKenzie. But kismet’s a funny thing. When the firm transferred him to New York in 1990, Vacca found himself in fashion circles yet again, representing companies such as Tod’s, Genny, Byblos, Malo and Ermenegildo Zegna. Soon, he launched a magazine called Italia to showcase the labels and designs with which he was involved. That was 1992. By 1997, he had stopped practicing law altogether, and in 2001, he abandoned publishing to launch his own label, making use of the master Italian tailors he had encountered during his travels. He opened his first store at Fifth Avenue and 59th Street the next year. Now, Vacca owns three New York boutiques and others in Beverly Hills and Florida’s Bal Harbour and Palm Beach, with offerings that run from his signature fine tailoring to eveningwear to accessories and jewelry. Next year, he plans to open his seventh store, a 5,000-square-foot one in Atlanta, in which he’ll also debut a home furnishing collection that’s, believe it or not, all made from alligator. A Vaccaclad Glenn Close in “Damages.” The designer’s Madison Avenue store. “The approach is, no problem. We can custom-make everything for you,” Vacca says. “We have 2,000 fabrics for suits and jackets. Our alligator bags — we have 25 different colors.” It’s the kind of can-do mentality that has enabled him to carve a name for himself in Hollywood, with costume credits in “Stranger Than Fiction” and “Inside Man,” as well as the upcoming “The Night Watchman” and “The Kite Runner.” Many of his own customers, Vacca says, are equally high-wattage. But perhaps there’s no better example of his on- and offscreen popularity than this: The designer says he dresses Jeremy Piven’s character Ari Gold on “Entourage,” as well as the real-life talent agent on whom he’s based, Endeavor Talent Agency founder Ari Emanuel. — Venessa Lau PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV; “DAMAGES” BY LARRY RILEY/FX I WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 9 WWD.COM L’Artisan Parfumeur Goes High-Tech With Home Scent NEW YORK — L’Artisan Parfumeur plans to build upon its home fragrance business with the introduction this fall of Chez Moi, a device designed to scent a room with timed micro bursts of fragrance. The device, which is billed as a perfume diffuser system, consists of a black box topped with a fragrance holder and a spray nozzle. It features a silver touch panel that turns Chez Moi on and off, and when the device is activated, it sprays a burst of fragrance vertically from its top ever y three minutes. The batterypowered system, which is intended to be placed on a table or shelf, uses small glass “beads” that are filled with fragrance and designed to be loaded into Chez Moi by inverting them on top of the device. “It’s not just about technology,” said François Duquesne, president of L’Artisan Parfumeur U.S. “It’s about high fidelity — the most loyal reproduction of a scent in your home.” ket, sales of Paul Smith scents declined 15 percent to 6.3 million euros, or $8.4 million, the company said. Van Cleef & Arpels, whose license Inter Parfums SA acquired in October 2006, contributed 4.6 million euros, or $6.1 million, to overall sales in the half. In June, Inter Parfums SA increased its stake in men’s beauty brand Nickel to 100 percent. By region, the U.S. represents 25 percent of Inter Parfums SA’s total sales. Its European business grew 11 percent, and revenues in Asia increased 14 percent. Inter Parfums SA said business in the second half will benefit from holiday sales, a larger contribution from Van Cleef & Arpels, plus the fall launches of Paul Smith Rose and the first Roxy scent. Despite currency fluctuations, Inter Parfums SA reconfirmed its full-year sales target of 245 million euros, or $339 million at current exchange. BEAUTY BEAT — Ellen Groves Chez Moi from L’Artisan Parfumeur. It’s not just “about technology. It’s about high fidelity. ” — François Duquesne, L’Artisan Parfumeur U.S. Chez Moi is priced at $230 and comes with a single Blue Cedar scented fragrance bead, which is designed to last 10 to 12 hours. In addition to Blue Cedar, fragrance beads will be available in four scents: Wild Blackberry, Fig Tree Interior, Marine Mimosa and Amber. A single bead is priced at $20, while a box of three costs $50 and a box of five goes for $75. The device will be launched in September at L’Artisan’s six company-owned stores in the U.S. and another in Canada. Industry sources estimate Chez Moi could garner retail sales of between $250,000 and $500,000 during its first year in the U.S. — Matthew W. Evans Inter Parfums Sales Up 9% PARIS — Inter Parfums SA, the Paris-based subsidiary of Inter Parfums Inc., posted secondquarter 2007 sales of 52.5 million euros, or $70.8 million at average exchange, up 9 percent year-on-year. That showing helped the firm’s revenues for first-half 2007 also increase 9 percent versus first-half 2006 to 110.3 million euros, or $146.6 million. The company said in a statement this performance was achieved while it reorganized its distribution networks in Germany, Spain, Italy and the U.K. Sales of its Burberry scents increased 10 percent in the half to 73.5 million euros, or $97.7 million. Inter Parfums SA said, citing tracking firm The NPD Group, that Burberry ranks 10th among women’s scents and eighth among men’s fragrances in the U.S. Also in the half, the Lanvin fragrance business rose 14 percent to 15.6 million euros, or $20.7 million, thanks to a 40 percent jump in sales of its Eclat d’Arpege line. Due to a sluggish U.K. mar- ALL YOUR NEEDS FULFILLED AUGUST 5-7, 2007 JAVITS CENTER, MANHATTAN SUNDAY & MONDAY 9AM-6PM TUESDAY 9AM-5PM 3 SHOWS 1 LOCATION 2,800+ LINES APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES IMMEDIATE FALL/WINTER 2007 HOLIDAY/RESORT 2007-08 COLLECTIONS REGISTER: 866-696-6020 EXHIBIT: 212-686-4412 WWW.ACCESSORIESTHESHOW.COM WWW.MODAMANHATTAN.COM WWW.FAMESHOWS.COM ACCESSORIESTHESHOW, MODA MANHATTAN AND FAME ARE PROPERTIES OF BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 WWD.COM Marketing The Have-Mores Want More By Valerie Seckler LUXURY ISN’T WHAT IT USED TO BE. “With millions of millionaires and thousands of [other] people who can afford a Louis Vuitton bag or a Prada suit, the very term luxury keeps getting debased,” Robert Frank, author of “Richistan” (Crown Publishers, $24.95), stated simply. One result of people getting wealthier far faster and at significantly younger ages than they have historically is that luxury marketers will be pressed to keep giving more to the new rich. More elaborate and expensive things will be in demand— status symbols that “have always defined the truly rich,” projected Frank, who has chronicled the rapid run-up in wealth that is giving rise to a tier of Americans he dubs Richistanis, who live in the realm of Richistan. Even in Richistan, a class divide is emerging whereby the “have-mores,” as Frank describes those with wealth of at least $10 million, are intent on purchasing things that, among other things, set them apart from mere single-digit millionaires. Singledigit millionaires do not qualify as truly rich in the eyes of the author, a senior special writer at The Wall Street Journal who writes a daily blog, “The Wealth Report.” In 2004, there were nine million single-digit millionaire households among the country’s then-112 million households. That compares with a considerably more rarefied 530,000 households with wealth of $10 million and 110,000 households with wealth of $25 million, based on the Federal Reserve Board’s Survey of Consumer Finance. Nonetheless, the nine million households with a net worth of $1 million represent a steep ascent from the less than four million such households tracked by the government in 1995. And households with wealth of $1 million in 2004 represented 8 percent of the U.S. total, twice the 4 percent share 10 years earlier. In an interview at the funky, fun, but decidedly unluxurious Mayrose Diner in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, Frank expressed concern that the older couple portrayed in the “Richistan” cover image — a satiric reinvention of Grant Wood’s “American Gothic” painting — not give people the idea his tale is one of an older crowd. The playful placement of a golf club in the man’s hand and a poodle in the Robert Frank arm of the woman, who stand before a McMansion, manicured lawn and swimming pool, do suggest the sense of fun that A Spending Record From Billionaireville: 2005 permeates many of the writer’s stories about the lives of the new rich and their (relatively) fast money. Net worth: $1.2 billion “If you take wealth too Mortgages: 0 seriously, you either get dePhilanthropy: $3.0M pressed or very angry,” sugAir charters/private jet: $3.0M gested Frank, who points out House staff & personal assistants: $2.2M in “Richistan” that about oneEntertaining at house: $2.0M third of the country’s wealth is Annual real estate taxes: $900K held by the richest 1 percent of Apparel: $300K its denizens. Restaurants/bars: $250K Where do America’s style Personal beauty, salon, spa: $200K-a moguls fit in? The Forbes list of America’s richest in 2006 inNote: “a”: includes $80,000 for massages. cludes Nike Inc. founder Phil SOURCE: A BILLIONAIRE’S SELF-DESCRIBED SPENDING, AS TOLD IN “RICHISTAN” Knight, whose wealth it puts at $9.6 billion; Ralph Lauren, with $5 billion; Limited Brands Inc. How one billionaire burns through his millions. founder and chief executive of- people with net worth of $100 million to $1 billion, is believed to be in the thousands. Their chief sources of wealth are business ownership and equity. An Upper Richistani’s average spending in 2006 came to $182,000 on watches, $397,000 on jewelry, $169,000 on spa services and $311,000 on cars, according to the book. “When you live in Upper Richistan, your entire philosophy of money changes,” Frank writes. “You realize you can’t possibly spend all of your fortune…in your lifetime and that your money will probably grow over the years even if you spend lavishly. “Still, Upper Richistanis have occasional feelings of inferiority,” Frank continues. “That’s because they’re being overshadowed by the residents of Billionaireville.” There were only 13 billionaires in the U.S. in 1985. Current lists range widely. In 2006, Forbes highlighted more than 400 citizens of B-ville in its annual list of richest people, while Leslie “Richistan”: Don’t let their ages fool you. Mandel’s Rich List Co. claims more than 1,000 names, a roster Mandel began compiling in the Sixties through her investment banking and fund-raising endeavors. Like many of the new rich, recently minted billionaires prefer to keep a low profile. This won’t keep America’s millionaires and billionaires from stretching higher for status, however. In Richistan, the word affluent is an insult reserved by many for Lower Richistanis. Frank cops to the view of economist Robert H. Frank (no relation), who expects the country’s wealthiest to keep spending more for their luxuries, a level the 39-year-old “Richistan” author described as “a new, irrational reference point consumers will use when making their own purchasing decisions.” These days, that could mean signaling wealth by, say, choosing a $50,000 watch rather than a $25,000 model, or replacing an $89.95 gas grill with a $5,000 Viking-Frontgate Professional Grill. Size does matter. For example, there were 30,000 homes larger than 5,000 square feet built in 2005 — more than five times as many as in 1995. The least pricy of three Richistani vacation homes on the market early this year, Frank reports, “is an estate near Lake Tahoe named Tranquility, built by a cofounder of Tommy Hilfiger [Joel Horowitz], boasting a private lake, conservatory, boathouse, stable, gymnasium and garage space for 17 cars,” he continues. “The home’s staircase is a replica of the SS Titanic’s, and the marble flooring in the entryway is patterned after the New York Public Library’s.” Grander or glitzier alone won’t always cut it with those intent on proving their status, now a never-ending effort as the bar keeps getting raised by the rapid accumulation of wealth by the country’s richest. Oftentimes, it will take an improvement in the functionality of top-end things to command their ever-climbing prices, Frank advised in the interview. Yachts so long that they need to dock with oil rigs in industrial ports instead of in marinas in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., or Monaco are not likely to impress one’s friends, he said, only half kidding. Designer fashion is likely to see a groundswell in demand for one-of-a-kind and made-to-measure clothing — and more so as mass marketers keep adding designer names and one-off collections. “Too many brands want to cash in quickly, and in the long term that’s death to a luxury brand,” the wealth expert noted. “[Luxury] fashion designers ought to produce limited quantities to protect their cachet.” The Richistani population is projected to grow by 2 to 3 percent in each of the next few years, reaching 10.5 million in 2010, and as they increasingly move in the same global circles with the rest of the world’s millionaires and bil— Robert Frank lionaires, Richistanis will add to a nascent “third culture,” Frank forecast. It is one comprising people who are staying at the same hotels (Four Seasons, Ritz Carltons), driving the same cars (Rolls-Royces, Bentleys), wearing the same apparel and accessories (Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Franck Muller) and visiting the same vacation spots (St. Bart’s, Monaco, Maldives). This third culture is expected to remain a global scene in the foreseeable future, as its basis, Frank said, “is a worldwide similarity in consumption habits.” The U.S. is now producing the most millionaires in the world, surpassing Europe for the first time. “ ” ficer Leslie Wexner, $3.2 billion; Jim Davis, founder of New Balance, with $2 billion; Robert Fisher, chairman of Gap Inc., $1.4 billion, and Paul Fireman, former Reebok ceo, $1 billion. Alain Wertheimer, chairman at Chanel, who lives in the U.S., shares with his brother Gerard a fortune Forbes place at $10 billion. Though their exact numbers are unknown, the population of Upper Richistan, Word-of-Mom Is Spreading Among Affluent Generation Xers W ord of mouth, the oldest form of marketing, is by far the number-one source of information for a new generation of mothers. Nearly all Gen X moms with at least one child younger than 12 and annual household income topping $75,000 rely on their peers for information about everything from child-rearing to favorite cars, vacations and brands of merchandise, according to a first-quarter survey taken for Cookie magazine. While mothers have long exchanged such information, the finding that 92 percent of this group — dubbed New Gen Moms by the magazine — is noteworthy because they are still devoting considerable time to their own pursuits, said Carolyn Kremins, vice president and publisher of Cookie. (The magazine, like WWD, is published by Condé Nast.) The participants in the national poll numbered 1,037, including 503 nonreaders of the family lifestyle title, from among an estimated 18 million New Gen Moms. “These are later-in-life moms, later in child bearing, and they are not giving up their passions,” Kremins noted. Nonetheless, once such mothers create a network, whether in the playground or online, they are unlikely to give it up, she said, “no matter how busy they are.” SNAPSHOT: New Generation Mothers, Ages 25-45 97% are including young children in their decision-making processes. 75% cite past experience with a brand as an important purchasing consideration. 63% are shopping online since becoming parents. 56% are working. 25% more brand recommendations are being made by women after becoming New Gen mothers. SOURCE: COOKIE MAGAZINE, “GENERATION MOM 2007” FIRST-QUARTER SURVEY OF 1,053 WOMEN WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 11 WWD.COM Continued from page one on the U.S. economy are playing a significant role in the 2008 presidential race and the ongoing political battle between the Democratic-controlled Congress and the Bush administration. The Senate charges President Bush’s diplomatic attempts to get China to reform its currency and trade policies have failed. The legislative action comes at a time of a record trade deficit with China, which stood at $232.5 billion in 2006, that has weakened the U.S. dollar and sent a ripple effect throughout the fashion industry, particularly hitting hard American designers importing European fabrics and textiles. Still, designer brands and apparel importers are generally leery of the government intervening in China’s currency policies. “I think it’s always ill-conceived,” said Bud Konheim, president and chief executive officer of Nicole Miller. “The government has an uncanny way of screwing things up, while business people have a way of working things out. It’s much better to let the market forces deal with [the trade deficit and weakened dollar]. Supposedly, the yuan is artificially priced, but so far it is working, so leave it alone.” U.S. textile producers, however, claim they cannot compete with Chinese imports they charge are undervalued by up to 40 percent. They say government relief is needed to curb the flow of Chinese imports. It is against this backdrop that the Senate Finance Committee will take the first legislative action of the year on Thursday against China and other countries that undervalue their currencies and ultimately hurt U.S. manufacturers. While the key Senate panel is expected to pass the bill, its fate in Congress is uncertain because of jurisdictional disputes and several competing bills. The Senate is one of the toughest hurdles for any China-related bills because its rules require more than a majority to pass any major piece of legislation. Senate leaders need 60 votes to cut off debate and end filibusters to pass bills, while the House needs a simple majority. The White House will not take a position on a bill until Congress acts, but a punitive bill could draw a veto threat from President Bush. Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. has called on China to take more decisive steps to change its currency policies but he has declined to label the country a currency manipulator and opted to pursue a “strategic diplomatic dialogue” with Chinese officials to prod reform. China, in turn, has revalued its currency by about 8 percent in the past two years. Paulson and other experts argue that there are many underlying factors to the U.S. trade deficit. “A Chinese appreciation, even a large one, is not going to be the silver bullet,” in addressing the U.S. current account deficit, said Nicholas Lardy, a senior fellow at the Peterson Institute for International Economics. “If you want to make a dent in this, you have to get both China and Japan to move [on currency appreciation] and you’ve got to take fiscal action [in the U.S.] to reduce the savings investment imbalance, but Congress would rather point the finger abroad than look at [multiple] solutions to the problem.” The legislation before the Senate panel was unveiled in June by Sens. Max Baucus (D., Mont.), Chuck Grassley (R., Iowa), Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) and Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) after Paulson stopped short of accusing China of currency manipulation. Although the senators’ bill does not target China specifically, it is intended to force revaluation of the yuan and impose new consequences for inaction. The measure would direct the Treasury to redefine currency manipulation, establish new rules requiring the agency to identify “fundamentally misaligned” currencies to Congress biannually and could potentially result in U.S. and WTO penalties if bilateral negotiations fail. Apparel importers are concerned about the potential for new antidumping cases against products they bring in from China based solely on claims of undervalued currencies even if dumping is not found. “When you consider that 80 percent of all products exported from China to the PHOTO BY XINHUA /LANDOV Senators Intensify Campaign on Undervalued Currencies Chinese Vice Premier Wu Yi met with President Bush and Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. in May and discussed economic relations. U.S. are consumer products, it really exposes retailers to a tremendous amount of risk,” said Erik Autor, vice president and international trade counsel at the National Retail Federation. Julia Hughes, senior vice president of international trade at the U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, said companies are worried that senators will try to “toughen” the bill in committee or on the floor of the House and Senate to broaden trade remedies that domestic manufacturers could use against countries that undervalue their currency. Sens. Jim Bunning (R., Ky.) and Debbie Stabenow (D., Mich.) have a bill that would give U.S. firms injured by undervalued currencies the ability to file petitions for countervailing duties for subsidized imports. Many in the U.S. textile industry are hanging their hopes on Congress expanding trade remedy laws to fight against undervalued currencies and subsidized imports they say have led to the loss of hundreds of thousands of U.S. jobs. “The trade remedy aspects in these bills need to be strengthened,” said a spokesman for the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, adding textile producers want to see the bill expanded to include the ability to file countervailing duty cases against subsidized imports from China. “Just fi ling a [countervailing duty] case would create enormous amounts of uncertainty for importers and the retail community, and my guess is it would put enormous pressure on China to come to the U.S. and say let’s do some type of incremental solution to this currency problem,” the AMTAC spokesman said. Gov. Spitzer Vetoes Bill Extending U.S. Against Doha Cotton Subsidy Proposal Preferences for N.Y. Apparel Firms By John Zarocostas By Jessica Best ALBANY, N.Y. — Gov. Eliot Spitzer has vetoed legislation that would make permanent the portions of the New York State Apparel Workers Fair Labor Conditions and Procurement Act that created the special Sept. 11 Bidders Registry. The registry gives preferred status for competitive bids on contracts from state agencies and public authorities to apparel and textile manufacturers and contractors adversely affected by 9/11. There are currently 70 companies on the registry. If one of these firms bids on a state or public authority contract and its bid is no more than 15 percent greater than the lowest bid, it is awarded the contract. Those provisions were intended to be temporary and to expire on Sept. 1, 2005, but have been extended until Sept. 1, 2008. “The registry has served a very laudable and necessary purpose — providing assistance to those companies that were seriously harmed by the events of Sept. 11,” Spitzer said. “The attacks on the World Trade Center placed a large number of apparel companies at a significant disadvantage and the registry sought to level the playing field with their competitors. During the past six years, the registry has helped to achieve that goal. “These temporary benefits should not be continued in perpetuity, however, because the preference given to these companies makes it harder for other apparel companies to compete and increases costs to the state’s taxpayers. Moreover, the adverse impacts of the World Trade Center attacks have diminished over time, thereby reducing the need for continuing these preferences.” Spitzer noted that more than a year remains before these provisions expire. He said he is asking the Department of Labor and the Empire State Development Corp. to review the impact of the registry on the apparel industry and to report to him and the state legislature as to whether bidding preferences and other provisions in the 2002 law should be continued beyond September 2008. GENEVA — The U.S. gave a cold shoulder Tuesday to a draft proposal in the Doha Round global trade talks that calls for deeper cuts in cotton subsidies compared with other agriculture products. “I do not think it’s acceptable,” Joseph Glauber, chief U.S. agriculture negotiator, told reporters. Earlier, Glauber said during a closed-door World Trade Organization session of chief trade negotiators from 151 nations that the draft paper failed to take into account reductions in other areas of the farm talks, such as product-specific cuts. But he stressed the U.S. was committed to take action on cotton. A text circulated last week by New Zealand ambassador Crawford Falconer, chairman of the agriculture segment of the Doha talks, urges much deeper cuts for cotton and reflects the demand of poor West African cotton producers Benin, Mali, Burkina Faso and Chad, labeled the “Cotton 4” countries. According to estimates by agricultural trade experts, the reductions would be as high as 82 percent for cotton and could see U.S. cotton subsidies slashed by more than $1.5 billion. Chief negotiators from other major farm exporting countries, speaking on the condition of anonymity because of the political sensitivities of the issue, said they doubted Washington would agree to the level of cuts suggested in the Falconer text. Trade diplomats said it will be an uphill battle for the U.S. to make the case to offer something less than what is on the table given the support for the position of the four African nations from other developing countries, antipoverty advocacy groups and international development agencies. Benin’s chief WTO envoy, Samuel Amehou, said, “This is our formula” and that the country expects an ambitious and expeditious outcome. The Brazilian-led G20 group of developing countries, which includes India, South Africa and China, said it “fully supports” the inclusion of the Cotton-4 demands in the agriculture texts. Brazil has successfully challenged some of the U.S. farm subsidy programs before WTO dispute panels as being in breach of global rules. Trade diplomats said a group of developing countries was likely to make a highly critical appraisal on Wednesday of the draft text to lower industrial tariffs proposed by Canadian committee chairman Don Stephenson. That plan calls for industrial tariffs, including apparel and textiles, to be around 8 or 9 percent for rich economies and between 19 and 23 percent for developing nations. Also on Tuesday, China blocked requests by the U.S. and Mexico for a dispute panel to be established to examine their complaint that it provides subsidies to enterprises prohibited under global rules. China said it believe the measures are consistent with WTO rules and said it prefers to resolve the dispute through country-to-country consultations. However, the establishment of a panel is automatic on a second request, which is likely to come at the next meeting of the dispute settlement body, slated for Aug. 31. 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 Obituaries Mothers Work Income Slides By Erica Owen NEW YORK — Mothers Work Inc. posted mixed third-quarter results due to an overall weak retail environment and forgiving fashions in women’s apparel that allow mothers-to-be to skip maternity stores. For its third quarter ended June 30, Mothers Work posted net income of $1 million, or 17 cents a diluted share, down from $8.8 million, or $1.54 a diluted share, in the same year-ago period. Excluding charges in connection with the repurchase of debt, income in the current quarter would have been $5.5 million, or 90 cents a diluted share. Sales fell by 6.5 percent to $153.2 million from $163.9 million. For the first nine months, Mothers Work posted net income of $5 million, or 81 cents a diluted share, compared with $9.7 million, or $1.77, in the year-ago period. Excluding charges, income for the nine months would have been $10.7 million, or $1.74 a diluted share. Sales declined by 3.1 percent to $445.6 million, down from $459.9 million. President and chief creative officer Rebecca Matthias said in a statement that third-quarter sales suffered from trends “such as trapeze and baby-doll dresses and tops, which can more readily fit a pregnant woman early in her pregnancy than typical non- Some offerings at Mothers Work last year. maternity fashions.” First Albany Capital analyst Paula Kalandiak, who rates Mothers Work shares at “buy,” wrote in a research note the retailer has kept tight control on “relatively clean” inventory, and expects the company’s fundamentals to improve in 2008 due to easier year-over-year comparisons and a shift in trends away from voluminous tops toward body-conscious looks that cannot double as maternity wear. “We believe that trendsetting women’s apparel retailers across the country have begun to move away from these styles, and that it will only be a matter of time before the more By Khanh T.L. Tran aul Guez stepped down as president and chief executive officer of Blue Holdings Inc. to make way for turnaround specialist Glenn Palmer as the jeans and sportswear company seeks to cut expenses and reevaluate brands such as Antik Denim and Taverniti So Jeans amid a softening denim market. Palmer, 54, was previously ceo and president of New York’s Rafaella Apparel Group, owned by Cerberus Capital Management, where he led a $172 million debt financing program. As ceo of New York’s Amerex Group Inc., Palmer reorganized the outerwear and apparel manufacturer and launched a $10 million licensed urban business. His appointment is the third change among Commerce, Calif.-based Blue Holdings’ senior executives in seven months. Larry Jacobs replaced Patrick Chow as chief financial officer in December, and Scott Drake became chief operating officer, a new position, in March. Guez, 62, remains chairman. “I’m not a ceo,” Guez said. “I’m more of a businessman, somebody to come up with new ideas mainstream retailers catch on,” Kalandiak wrote in a research note. “While the company’s own stores posted a decline in sales, its other sources of revenue showed increases.” Mothers Work now sees fiscal 2007 diluted earnings per share, including the debt repurchase charges, of between 56 cents and 81 cents. Philadelphia-based Mothers Work operates under the Motherhood Maternity, A Pea in the Pod, Mimi Maternity and Destination Maternity names in roughly 1,600 locations, including retail stores and leased departments in chains such as Babies ‘R’ Us, Sears and Macy’s. [and] to develop brands.” Guez said he wants to develop foreign markets, including Japan and Europe, and expand into new categories such as shoes, bags, eyeglasses, outerwear and children’s clothing through licenses. Palmer, who started at Blue Holdings on Tuesday during the Project trade show in New York, said his initial priorities include increasing the company’s department store business, adding products such as knitwear and woven tops and reducing expenses, which surged 63 percent to $17.1 million last year from 2005 as revenue increased 35 percent to $49 million. Blue Holdings posted a net loss of $4 million last year, compared with net income of $7.5 million in 2005. “One of the things we want to maximize is a strategy in our distribution,” said Palmer, who will be based in New York and Southern California. Jacobs said Blue Holdings anticipates revenue of $40 million to $42 million this year. With Palmer’s arrival, Jacobs said Blue Holdings will reevaluate its brands. “I just think, in all our brands, a new eye and [Palmer’s] retail background will enable us to get a renewed focus,” Jacobs said, rejecting speculation that Blue Holdings will shed brands from its portfolio. Hilfiger Buys European Footwear Licensee By Lisa Lockwood T Pendleton Mills Executive Clarence M. Bishop Jr., 82 C Guez Resigns as CEO at Blue P WWD.COM he Tommy Hilfiger Group has acquired Tommy Hilfiger Footwear Europe GmbH, its European licensee based in Osnabrück, Germany. Hilfiger footwear was launched in the European market in 2002, when the company signed a licensing agreement with Hamm Shoe & Accessories Co. GmbH. In five years, the business, which includes women’s, men’s and children’s footwear, has grown into an $81 million operation. Financial details of the transaction, which is expected to close by Aug. 15, weren’t disclosed. “This acquisition is in line with our strategy to consolidate brand management and approach the market in the most coordinated manner possible,” said Fred Gehring, chief executive officer of Tommy Hilfiger Group, in a statement. Hans-Peter Hamm, president of the Hamm Shoe & Accessories Group, will step down as managing director of Tommy Hilfiger Footwear, and is retiring from the business. The organization in Osnabrück will remain an independent entity, but will be managed as a division of Tommy Hilfiger Europe BV. Dirk Pues, a member of Hilfiger footwear’s management team since the inception, and recently named one of its managing directors, will remain in his post and report to Daniel Grieder, chief operating officer and president of Tommy Hilfiger Europe BV. larence M. “Mort” Bishop Jr., vice chairman of Pendleton Woolen Mills, died July 11 at St. Vincent’s Hospital in Portland, Ore. He was 82. The cause of death was congestive heart failure, according to a company spokeswoman. Bishop was the fourth generation of his family to lead the Portland, Ore.-based company, which was founded in 1909. In recent years, he and his brother Broughton shared the role of vice chairman. The company has always tried to keep an even keel with the family’s integrity, ethics and The Golden Rule, said the spokeswoman, adding that Mort Bishop Jr. often referred to The Golden Rule as a compass for the way Pendleton conducts business. Pendleton has deep roots in the Northwest’s woolen industry. In 1863, Bishop’s great-grandfather relocated to Oregon, started a small textile mill in Brownsville and was instrumental in the industry’s development. Mort Bishop Jr.’s son Clarence M. 3rd remains president of Pendleton Woolen Mills, a post he has held for the past eight years. In 1969, Mort Bishop Jr. took over the president’s role from his own father and namesake. Born in Portland, Bishop attended Phillips Academy before joining the U.S. Marine Corps. While serving with the 5th and 14th battalions, he was said to have seen “some of the worst fighting in the South Pacific” and was involved with the liberation of Guam in July 1944, a Pendleton spokeswoman said. He was among the scores of military personnel that returned to Guam to mark the 50th anniversary. Following his honorable discharge, Bishop attended Yale University, where he graduated with a B.S. in 1949. Two years prior, he wed Mabel Alleyne Livingston, with whom he had four children. He and his late wife fished in such far-flung locales as the Seychelles, Chile, Venezuela and remote Alaskan villages. They also had a cow-calf ranching operation in southeastern Washington and a cattle and sheep farm in Newberg, Ore. At Pendleton, Bishop learned the ropes by working at the company’s various locations. When he joined the company in 1949, he worked at Pendleton’s original mill in Pendleton, Ore., before moving on to its fabric mill in Washougal, Wash. Eventually, he made his way to the company’s corporate headquarters in Portland. Until his death, Bishop played a hands-on role at the company, reviewing all financial and business documents and providing input, the spokeswoman said. Pendleton now employs 1,000 people. “It’s in the DNA of this family, a part of their heritage. Over the years there have been many changes and adjustments but always governed by the mantra of ‘Warranted to be standard.’ That goes back to C.M. Bishop Jr.’s father,” she said. He was involved in such industry groups as the American Apparel Manufacturers Association, the Men’s Fashion Association and the National Association of Manufacturers. In addition to his brother and son, Bishop is survived by three daughters, Susan, Melinda MacColl and Rebecca Martin. — Rosemary Feitelberg Dorinda Dixon Ryan NEW YORK — Dorinda Dixon “D.D.” Ryan, an arts and fashion insider, died Tuesday at Calvary Hospital Hospice in the Bronx after a brief bout with cancer. She was 79. A native of Bristol, R.I., Ryan was determined while still a teenager to make Manhattan her home. During her late teens, she landed a job as Richard Avedon’s assistant. Working on assignment with him, Ryan met Diana Vreeland, who wooed her to work for Harper’s Bazaar. There she “rapidly” became the magazine’s photo editor, said her son Drew Ryan. Ryan went on to design costumes for Broadway shows such as “Company” and “House of Flowers” “D.D.’’ Ryan with Halston and as well as films, including “A New Stephen Burrows. Leaf.” Along the way, she befriended Halston early in his career, when he was selling hats for Bergdorf Goodman, her son said. Ryan also worked exclusively for the designer for 15 years until his death in 1990. More than anything, Ryan valued mentoring young people and kept up that practice throughout her life, her son said. She could catch the ear of scores of well-known artists, dancers, musicians and notables, including Pablo Picasso, Stephen Sondheim, Harold Arlen and Cole Porter. Ryan was so striking that in the early Sixties, she and her husband, John, were asked to sit for a series of photographs by Cecil Beaton. And the artist Erte once painted her portrait. Ryan was also said to have teamed the creator of “Eloise,” Kay Thompson, with the book’s illustrator, Hilary Knight. The voice of the children’s book character was something Thompson and Ryan playfully invented and occasionally used in telephone conversations. In addition to her son Drew, Ryan is survived by another son, Beau. Private services will be Friday and a memorial is being planned for the fall. — R.F. Where Consumer Meets Brand At Retail | Online | As Lifestyle The editors of WWD invite you to join top-level apparel, brand, and retail executives for a focused day of challenges, solutions, and cooperative discussion about what works—and what doesn’t —in connecting with consumers today. Audience 100+ apparel brand and retail executives responsible for creating, managing and growing their brands. Titles will include: CEO, CMO, President and Vice President in areas of Branding, Marketing, Merchandising, Business Development, Product Development and Design. For more information contact 212.630.4947 or [email protected] Sponsored by: 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 WWD.COM WWD West New Label and Stores on Tap for Aioli The facade of Plastic Island’s first U.S. store in Torrance, Calif. TORRANCE, Calif. — Aioli Co., a $100 million South Korea apparel maker, is revving up its U.S. profile in a prelude to an initial public offering. Less than two years after opening an office in Los Angeles and launching Stateside contemporary brands, Plastic Island and McGinn, the Seoul-based company this month debuted its first Plastic Island store in the U.S. at the Del Amo Fashion Center here, and plans to open more on the West Coast and in New York. Aioli plans to kick off a third contemporary brand, Egoist, in the U.S. next spring. Set to debut at the Intermezzo Collections trade show in New York on Aug. 5, Egoist bundles Lurex thread, accessories complementing looks and thigh-high hems in party-ready outfits wholesaling from $50 to $300. These steps are intended to build momentum for 10-year-old Aioli as it prepares for an IPO in Korea in 2009. Egoist generates half of Aioli’s sales, Plastic Island accounts for 30 percent and McGinn for the remainder. “Our company has a chance [in the U.S.],” executive director J.C. Song said. Aioli comes full circle with the U.S. launch of Egoist. The company introduced Egoist in South Korea in 1999 after obtaining rights to produce the line under license outside of Japan from Tokyo’s Egoist Co. Ltd. Five years later, Aioli bowed McGinn in Korea, and followed with Plastic Island in 2006. For the U.S. market, however, Aioli decided to wholesale Plastic Island first for spring 2006 and make it the center of a retail push because as the lowestpriced of the company’s three brands, it’s the most accessible in terms of price points and design, said Kyutae Kim, marketing manager for Aioli’s U.S. wholesale business. Aioli adopted a cautious but steady approach to expand Plastic Kim said Aioli wants to place Egoist in the same specialty shops that sell Island’s retail base in the U.S. It aims to open three to five units for Plastic Plastic Island. Dismissing concern about a conflict because the two labels Island on the West Coast in the next two to three years, followed by at promote different aesthetics, she said Aioli set a first-season wholesale least one location in lower Manhattan. Aioli operates 45 stores for Plastic sales target of $600,000 for Egoist, to match what Plastic Island achieved in Island in Korea and another five in Taiwan. its U.S. debut. In Torrance, located 20 miles south of Los Angeles, Plastic Island’s Wholesaling for $30 to $250, Plastic Island is sold at specialty shops such whimsically designed boutique is in a new outdoor section of Del Amo as Planet Blue in Santa Monica, Calif., Hillary Rush in Los Angeles and Fashion Center, which is owned by Chevy Chase, Md.-based Mills Neiman Marcus’ contemporary unit, Cusp. McGinn, on the other hand, Corp. Trend-driven retailers such as Forever 21, Anthropologie, Lucky arrived in the U.S. last summer with wholesale prices from $60 to $500. Brand Jeans and Urban Outfitters surround Plastic Island’s estimated Incorporating rich fabrics such as silk and mink, McGinn is carried by spe5,000-square-foot store in what Mills calls the “lifestyle wing.” cialty retailers including Los Angeles’ Inago, in addition to Nordstrom’s Via Kim said Aioli chose Torrance because “we have so much distribuC department, which ordered it for this fall, Kim said. tion in larger cities, and we didn’t want [the store] to come into contact Translating South Korean style for American women isn’t easy, said with that.” Barbara Fields, who travels regularly to Seoul, London, Tokyo and other The boutique’s ultrafeminine decor evokes both Marie Antoinette’s world capitals as the head of her namesake Los Angeles company, which foreboudoir and a modern art gallery. Just inside the all-glass facade, casts fashion trends for retailers. She pointed out that women’s bodies in the mannequin vignettes incorporate chartreuse-colored ceramic stattwo countries are vastly different. In general, Korean women are thin with ues of lions. Mauve-hued ceramic stag heads are mounted on the narrow hips and small chests. They wrap themselves in multiple layers, donbright white walls, and two towering sculptures of a “fantasy ning styles such as bubble knit tops and elongated hoodies that might not animal” — part giraffe, part horse — inhabit opposite ends of flatter curvy Americans, she said. And they aren’t shy about accessorizing the boutique. Huge plastic scrims printed with graphics detheir outfits with pom-poms and other attention-grabbing doodads. picting silhouetted nature scenes with rabbits and flowers “The Korean style gets very cutesy and very sweet,” Fields said. For hang from the ceiling. the U.S. market, Korean companies “have to keep it more cleaned up,” “We tried to create a surreal shopping environment,” said she said. Kim, adding that the boutique is more elaborate than the Korean To accommodate U.S. customers, Aioli made some tweaks. At Plastic stores, with more moldings and custom-made furniture, including curvy, builtIsland, it designed woven tops sold here to be a little larger than what is ofin shelves and display tables resembling black-lacquered dressing tables. fered in Korea. It also hopes to enable American consumers to develop a Plastic Island-branded handbags and jewelry, which are available only in knack for sprucing up outfits by including mock patent leather belts and the Torrance store, occupy their own spacious corner, next to private label other accessories with about one-third of Egoist’s wares. For instance, footwear, which Aioli began wholesaling for this fall. Handbags retail from a long chain necklace adorned with plastic navy beads is threaded $70 to $150 and shoes cost from $150 to $200. through loops bordering the neckline of a knit dress with silk blouThe boutique also stocks a more sophisticated line called Demi Couture by son sleeves. Plus, all the sheer dresses and tops are sold with Plastic Island, which costs between 20 percent and 30 percent more than the slips and tanks to assist dressing and give a perception of signature group. “We launched Demi Couture because we wanted something a more value. Made primarily in South Korea and China, the little special for the customer who’s looking for things to go out in,” Kim said. A highgarments can be shipped to the U.S. two months after an For the customer who wants more flash, Egoist fits the bill. Among the 80 waisted dress order is placed, Kim said. styles that Aioli will unveil for next spring are white denim HotPants featurfrom Egoist. “We’ve had a pretty good ride so far,” Kim said. “We’re ing a double waistband and gold buttons, and white Edwardian cotton shirtgrowing here really fast.” dresses with lace detailing on the sleeves and neck. Lily’s Golf Line Swings to Fresh Look, Logo L ily’s of Beverly Hills, a 35-year-old golf clothing line, is launching a new look and logo for spring 2008. Manufactured by Torrance, Calif.-based LBH Group Ltd., the once-conservative line has been updated with colorful prints and streetwear-inspired silhouettes. LBH hired vice president-creative director James Sowins in February to evolve offerings in the khakiclad, conservative golf market. Sowins was most recently head designer at Kitson and before that worked at Guess and Puma. “Women’s golf apparel has always been an afterthought to men’s, so my goal was to service the market with fashionable clothes that fit women’s lifestyle and taste level,” he said. Sowins combines technical and luxurious-feeling fabrics into styles borrowed from contemporary sportswear. Tailored bottoms such as flat-front capris and pleated skirts have stretch, and tops such as pinstripe vests and cap-sleeve polos are made with stain-resistant, antimicrobial, UV-shielding fabrics. The new collection, priced at $65 to $100 retail and about $20 above the previous price point, is intended to appeal to a slightly younger customer looking for clothes with crossover appeal. “Women are looking for something they can wear other places, and age doesn’t necessarily define lifestyle,’’ said Judy Petraitis, president of LHB Group. She estimated that spring 2008 sales will be 25 percent to 35 percent above the previous season, and should increase by 50 percent for fall 2008. She didn’t provide specific estimates. Existing retail channels include resorts, private clubs and specialty golf stores. “I could see us being in a Nordstrom or a Bloomingdale’s but it’s not our main direction,” Petraitis said, adding that Lily’s plans accessories that will cross over to specialty shops. Sowins plans to update LBH Group’s two tennis lines, LBH and Wimbledon, for 2008. The company has held the U.S., Canada and Caribbean licenses for the Wimbledon brand for 10 years. “Our angle will be to have more feminine and contemporary prints that fit so well it’s like you aren’t wearing anything at all,” he said. — Marcy Medina Lily’s of Beverly Hills Capri collection. EGOIST PHOTO BY SEAN ARMENTA/COURTESY OF AIOLI; STORE BY ANDREW STILES/COURTESY OF AIOLI By Khanh T.L. Tran and Emili Vesilind WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. • VP OF SALES • EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITIES Major Sleepwear/Lingerie Co. in Fremont CA is looking for an experienced VP of Sales. Strong sleepwear background, proven track record with Major Retailers / Dept. Stores. Has established relationships for immediate business growth. Great compensation / benefits & career opportunity. FAX OR EMAIL RESUMES TO: 510-651-2621 or [email protected] SENIOR ACCESSORIES DESIGNER Roxy is looking for a Sr. Accessories Designer. This position is located at the corporate headquarters, in Huntington Beach, CA. Must have 5 plus years experience in Accessories in the Junior or Better market. Must have Illustrator/CAD experience, graphic background is a plus. Only experienced candidates please. Email resume to: [email protected] for consideration. P o l e c i® Los Angeles, CA Production Patternmaker Seeking highly skilled patternmaker, 1st thru Production. Must be able to work well with others in a fast pace environment. Previous experience with high quality garments a must. TUKA experience is required. Sample Sewer Must be experienced, fast, and pay good attention to detail. Experience in knits + soft wovens (silk), excellent sewing quality, and good communication skills are required. Spanish/English speaking preferred. Qualified Candidates Only For consideration, please fax your resume to: 323.583.3009 or email: [email protected] SWEATERS DESIGNER Los Angeles The perfect candidate must have 7 years top brand experience designing with quality yarns and overseas factories. Excellent sketching, presentation and managerial skills are a must. This position is based in our beautiful Century City location. Email resumes & jpegs to: [email protected] recruitment Reach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing in WWD Marketplace. 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. SALES MANAGER OPPORTUNITIES AVAILABLE CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER BELL, CALIFORNIA Experienced person with proven record of achievement in managing Global Customer Service team for garment related industry. Successful candidate will be proficient in Word, Excel, Power Point. Exp. in JDEdwards a plus. Applicant will have demonstrated proficiency constructing Excel reports, writing commentary and superior communications skills in working with vendors, customers, and co-workers. Mail resume to: Box#M 1018 c/o Fairchild Classified 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl New York, NY 10017 LOS ANGELES, CA SALES MANAGER LA based Accessory Company seeks a SALES MANAGER. Must have at least 5 years experience, established contacts and a proven track-record working with MASS RETAILERS such as Walmart, Target, Gap etc. Competitive salary and commission offered. NEW MART BUILDING LOS ANGELES Incredible 4500 sq ft showroom, with loft space to share for sublease in womens contemp. prime real estate, 11th fl. approx. sq ft avail. 1000-3000, several private enclosed glass offices. Must be in contemp. market to qualify as a candidate. Submit all inquiries by 7/30/07 . Call 213-924-5429 or email [email protected] BRAND SALES MANAGER Candidates must have 3-5 years experience in Women’s Better Contemporary Market. Must have contacts and be able to work directly with buyers, demonstrating a proven track record of established relationships with Department and Specialty Stores. Trade show experience is a must. Excellent opportunity and benefits. Please send resume to: [email protected] WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. PATTERNS, SAMPLES AND PRODUCTION Cut & Sew, Knits/woven. USA & overseas China. Call Brenda @ (718) 358-8278 or Email: [email protected] CLOSE OUTS Patterns/Samples/Production We Buy Men’s, Women’s & Children’s All Quantities WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY We are nice people to deal with Also HBA and General Merchandise. Call Rocky 800-762-5488 Patterns/Samples/Production JOBBER/EXPORTER We buy better goods. All categories, including fabrics. Immediate $$. Please call 212-279-1902 Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Gowns custom made & wholesale. Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Full Service, Fine Fast Work. Any Styles. Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. PATTERNS & SAMPLES SMALL PRODUCTION Fast - Accurate - Reliable Call: 212-217-9750 LET US FIND YOUR DREAM JOB! Freelance & Perm Jobs Available Immediately! TAYLOR HODSON Fabric R & D - All Levels (Perm) Freelance Patternmakers Associate CAD-cold weather accessories (perm) Designer - Girls/Juniors (Perm) Freelance CAD Designers Asst Designer - Bilingual Japanese Assist Tech Design - high end (perm) Technical Designers Send resumes ASAP to: Email: [email protected] www.taylorhodson.com Accessory Company 1407 BROADWAY Sales, Design, Production positions open. See ad details at: www.SeeAdOnline.com SHOWROOMS/OFFICES TREBOR MGMT Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 Search For Space In Garment Center Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee www.midcomre.com Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 1407 Broadway Showroom Space; Bright corner unit 2,000 sq. ft.; Share or Sublease. 917-968-7544 Please email resumes to: [email protected] for freelance opportunities: [email protected] www.fourthfloorfashion.com ACCOUNTING CHARGEBACK ANALYST $35K 1-2 Yrs Entry Level. NJ ASST. BOOKKEEPER to $45K CREDIT & COLLECTION MGR, NJ $75K A/R. Solid Exp, Bklyn $45-55K Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or e-mail: [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Beautifully Renovated, light, window offices. 1227 - 3400 sq ft Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Accounts Payable Mgr $60-70K Current exp in both A/P + costing. Apparel or accessory co. ok. Bergen County. Aggressively growing co. [email protected] ADMIN ASSIST Phones. Data Entry. E-Mails. Assist Team [email protected] 212-947-3400 MOVE TO MIAMI $2K-$250K e-mail [email protected] Midtown Apparel Co. seeks A/R Clerk with 2 yrs min exp in Cash application, data entry and various clerical duties. Fax resumes with salary history to: (212) 391-7199, Attn: Rosanne ASSISTANT DESIGNER Well established fast paced dress company seeks creative, organized person with min 2 yrs experience. Computer literate; great growth potential. Contact: [email protected] Assistant Patternmaker Social dress mftr seeks an assistant patternmaker. Responsibilities include: garment specing, attending fittings & communicating with overseas factories. Fax Resume: 212-398-0654 ASST. MERCHANDISER Billing/EDI Admin We are a Garment Manufacturer seeking to share shipping costs. We have a state of the art facility located in Secaucus, New Jersey. Clean, organized, computerized and seeking other garment companies to share shipping costs with us. We ship and receive domestic and foreign product. To discuss this opportunity, please send an email to: [email protected] Part time personal assistant needed for President of apparel manufacturing company. Duties include: research, travel arrangements, meeting follow up, quick steno & typing, computer & e-mail savvy. Needs to be able to work 3 yrs exp AP, AR, payroll. Excellent comindependently. Previous exp a must. munication, organizational & computer Fax resume to: 212-643-0593 skills. Fax resume & salary: 212-768-2358 . FOR SALE Famous Handbag Brand Buyer Wanted for Expansion Top Accounts Worldwide. Celebrity Press. $3,295,000. [email protected] Serious Only RETAIL SALES ASSOCIATE Seeking a qualified Full-Time Associate for our Madison Avenue location. Must be a polished professional with: • Strong communication skills • Fine jewelry background & developed clientele book • 3 years of Fine Jewelry experience We offer excellent company benefits. Please email resume to: [email protected] Controller Major NYC Apparel Co. seeks full-time Controller w/5-10 years Imports (includes L/C & costing) & distribution experience . Proficiency with MAS200, Excel, Word, financial statement & budget preparation, collateral reporting & cash management experience a must. This position will also supervise A/P, H/R AND A/R dept. Please Fax resume to: (212) 202-5317 Contemporary garment manu.requires a billing & EDI person. One yr exp. req FAX: 212-382-3623 BOOKKEEPER ANNA SUI Design ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Designer Collection seeks an experienced designer to create collections, source trims and fabric and assist in design research. Individual must be able to flat sketch, illustrate and have excellent communication skills. Please fax resume to (Attn Albert): 212-563-6215 DATA PROCESSING Seeking motivated individual for entry Designer level data processing position using AS400. We will provide training. Minimum of 2 yrs exp. Must be highly FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 organized. Duties include sketching, fabric & trim research & development Illustrator & Photoshop a must. Email: [email protected] Design Assistant Designer ASSISTANT DESIGNER Major apparel company seeks assistant designer for junior girls line "Pastry" from the hit MTV show "Run’s House. Responsibilities include researching trend and color direction, shop retail stores and study competition, assist designer as directed and develop techpacks. Send resumes to: 212-730-9705 Missy update private label co. seeking asst. merchandiser. Duties include daily overseas follow up, tracking photo samples, labdips, updating charts. Must be motivated, have good communication skills, be detail oriented and organized. DESIGN Entry-level position. Please fax resume to 212 868 2801. REDUCE YOUR SHIPPING COSTS!!! Personal Assistant RETAIL STORE MANAGER Seeking a dynamic sales leader. Must be a polished professional with: • Strong management & communication skills • E xcellent organizational abilities • Motivation, enthusiasm and creativity to build a great growth opportunity business. • Retail experience a must! ALL POSITIONS A/R CLERK Account Executives (luxury) $60 -200K Planners/Buyers (all levels) $50 -100K V.P. Retail $200K++ Kidswear (many positions) $40 -150K Designers (every area) $40 -200K Merchandisers $60 -200K these... and so much more!!! We are an exciting, established, diverse and growing jewelry company looking to expand our team for the following positions: Associate Designer Associate Designer wanted to join Design team. 3-5 years creative design experience required. Must be self-motivated, detail oriented and have hands on experience working in a design room. Seeking a highly creative talented team player with excellent design and sketching skills. Please send resumes to: [email protected] Designer-Children’s Outerwear / Swimwear Children’s Designer for newborn-6X/7 nationally recognized label. Must be strong in smaller sizes, and have the ability to follow through from concept to packages. Excellent health plan and benefits. Please email your resume to: [email protected] DESIGNER Designer sportswear company seeks a designer with 7 yrs min. exp. in bridge knits to develop designs from concept to finish. Must be a fast learner, detailoriented & organized. Strong illustrative skills by hand w/ strong sense of color, trim and patterns. Great comp and benefits. E: [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 Technical Designer 17 Special Events Manager 2(x)ist, the leading Men’s Fashion Underwear brand seeking superb Technical Designer. Candidate must have experience creating tech pack, specs, and illustrations. Excellent knowledge of patternmaking and garment construction. Independent worker skilled at multi-tasking. Communication w/over-seas factories and identifying & resolving issues with production. Close working relationships w/Design, Product Development, Production, and Private Label teams. Private Label experience also a plus! Degree in Fashion with 3 years working experience. Please E-mail resume with cover letter to: DESIGNER We are seeking a contemporary, cutting edge designer for the Jordache premium line. The perfect candidate must have min. 5 years design experience working with denim & knits, have a working knowledge of denim washes, fit and construction, be proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must be able to work under pressure. Please send resumes to [email protected] Please indicate code NG/0707 in the subject. [email protected] We are currently looking for a candidate to join our public relations and marketing team. This position will be primarily responsible for coordination of special events for Ferragamo in the United States. This person will be responsible for partnering with Ferragamo Store Managers to organize all details for events in the stores in accordance with estimated timelines and budgets and working with internal departments and external vendors to coordinate all event details including conceptualization, invitations, catering, music and decor. This person will also prepare and communicate event summaries and work with the PR Director to develop eventrelated press strategy. The ideal candidate will have at least 3 years of related experience (magazine publishing, public relations, marketing, or communications with a luxury company preferred) with excellent communication and organizational skills, and is highly proficient in Microsoft Office. Please fax resume and salary requirements to: Carolyn Ocean, 212-758-4691 or email [email protected] STORE MANAGER RETAIL/ WHOLESALE PROD & DESIGN Cashmere and Apparel Company seeks dedicated team player. Salary commensurate with ability. PLEASE E-MAIL RESUME TO: [email protected] DesignerFast paced, high energy, growing Women’s Apparel Company seeks: ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Min of 2 yrs exp in sketching flats on Illustrator, creating boards & tech packs, pitch prints, sourcing fabrics & trims. Cut & sew knits exp a plus. Must have strong Photoshop & Illustrator skills, good sense of color, organized, be a self-starter, exp working in a fast paced environment and able to multi-task. Great opportunity for growth and excellent benefit package. Email resume: [email protected] or fax resume: 212 827 3344 Attn: RB DESIGNERS (2) Wovens & Sweaters Draper/1st Patternmaker Design Couture Fashion House located in N.Y.C. seeks a skilled Draper/1st Patternmaker with a minimum 10 years experience. Min 5 yrs experience in tops, bottoms Candidate must have extensive cut & & sweaters to join our design team. Seeking 2 candidates, one for Missy Seeking an experienced, motivated, sew Women’s Wear/Couture Eveningwear and one for Juniors. Candidates must organized person who is able to work background & strong draping skills. independently to be a part of our team. Must be able to handle fast paced work be self starters who take initiative & A contemporary sweater designer with Responsibilities include handling spe- environment and manage multiple exp in all aspects of line development. will contribute to the creative process. cific licensed labels and private label projects/deadlines on a timely basis. Must have a strong knowledge of Proficient in Photoshop, Illustrator, product. Must be able to wear many We are a leader in our industry and offer yarns/sweater construction. Candidate Excel & Word. Strong communication hats at one time & eager for challenges. comprehensive benefits & salary. Please skills (communicate with o/seas offices must be an organized, self-starter, with Sweater experience a MUST. Able to E-mail your resume/salary history and exp working in a fast paced environ- daily). Develop embroidery designs; design from initial concept, color, yarn subject header: "Draper/1st Patternmaker " ment and able to multi-task. Illustrator create tech packs/knowledge of gar- through all aspects up to sales sample. & your name to: [email protected] ment construction. /Photoshop skills a must. Must be detail oriented & able to multiPlease email resumes to: Great opportunity for growth and task. Knowledge of cut and sew knits, [email protected] excellent benefit package. Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop a plus . Fax resume to: 212 827 3344 Attn: HR E-mail resume to: [email protected] Designer Fast paced, high energy, growing Women’s Apparel Co. seeks: SWEATER DESIGNERS MENS Sweater Designer DRESSMAKER DESIGNERS Designer Girl’s Jeans CAD Designer Established Girl’s/Junior P/L jeanswear company is seeking to add a senior level CAD designer to it’s growing team. Candidate must be highly creative, organized & a team player. Experience in embellishments is a major plus. Send resume w/ salary requirements to: Email: [email protected] *MISSY DENIM $80-90K *MENS CASUAL KNITS $70-85K *WOMENS WOVENS $70-85K * GIRLS HANDBAGS $65K *ASSOCIATE MENS KNITS $55-70K *ASSOCIATE BOYS/YNG MENS $55K *ASSISTANT MENS KINTS $40-50K All Req Illustrator &PDM Skills E-Mail [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Highly skilled, exp’d. Seamstress/Tailor neededfor Couture Bridal/Eveningwear. Convenient L.I. location. 516-801-6767 Draper / 1st Patternmaker Contemporary design driven firm located in New York City is seeking a highly skilled Draper/1st Patternmaker with a min. of 10 years of exp. This candidate must have extensive cut & sew knitwear exp. & strong draping Design skills. Must be able to handle a fast paced work environment & manage multiple projects/deadlines in a timely Major apparel company seeks graphic basis. Contemporary exp. is required. designer for junior girls line "Pastry" We are a leader in our industry & offer from the hit MTV show "Run’s House. comprehensive benefits & salary. Responsibilities include researching Please email your resume with salary graphic trend technique and direction, history & subject header; Draper/ 1st designing theme graphics as directed by Patternmaker and your name to: designer, designing trims, developing [email protected] artwork and tech packs. GRAPHIC DESIGNER DESIGNER - Jewelry WANTED IMMEDIATELY Seeking a creative & capable Designer for better Dept./Specialty Stores. Ability to draw designs using a computer a plus. Please Fax resumes to: 713-850-8680 FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 Equal Opportunity Employer Fabric Research and Development Manager Established womens sportsear company is seeking a fabric research and development manager to oversee and supervise fabric department. Will be ultimately responsible for all phases of fabric/trim development, approval of lab dip and bulk fabric and new trends research. Must have strong communication skills, ability to follow through with overseas factories and thorough understanding of fabric construction and finishing. Minimum of 5 years experience in woven fabric a must. Please email resume to: [email protected] Fabulous Freelance Many opportunities available in Women’s Design, Technical Wovens, Fabric, Web PDM,and Planning…………… GRAPHIC ARTIST Major Apparel company seeks graphic artist with experience in girls infant to 6X. Individual must be creative and detail oriented. Responsibilities include executing the art from start to finish packages for production. Will work with mock up samples and the embroidery department. FAX RESUMES TO : 212-730-9705 * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * *Artist Girls- Boys-Jrs. - Mens- $HI *Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr. *Designer Boy/Girl 0-20 Sports Licensing *Production Mgr/Coords - Biling Chinese *Production Assistant Lab Dip Approval *Production Assistants or Coordinators *Product Mgr - Apparel Importer Exp *Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 Executive Director Provide leadership & financial mgmt to small non-profit with multi-funding source based budget. Exp running a customer service organization. Salary based on exp. Please apply to: ED Search Committee c/o Garment Industry Development Corp. 275 Seventh Avenue, 15th Floor NYC 10001 212-366-6162 [email protected] EXECUTIVE RECRUITER Exec apparel search firm seeks staff recruiter. Apparel bkgrd a must. All fields. [email protected] 212-947-3400 Email: [email protected] JUNIOR COLORIST Fresh, young intimate apparel company has entry-level opening for Junior Colorist to assist in tracking and coordinating color and product development processes including lab-dips, fabric and trim quality evaluation and sample garment review for national brands. FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 [email protected] www.raskinexecsearch.com Candidate must be detail-oriented with strong organizational skills and ability to prioritize in a fast-paced environment. Must interact and communicate with overseas factories. Microsoft Excel and Outlook proficiency a must. E-mail resume and salary requirements to : [email protected] 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 • PRODUCTION • Sixty’s innovative brands are distributed to over 90 countries worldwide, with an ever-increasing distribution to department stores within the United States. Synonymous with life, youth, action and energy, our brands cater to the lifestyle of the fashion-forward individual! Due to growth and expansion of our business, we are seeking talented, individuals to join our apparel & footwear divisions: Very well established missy apparel company has 2 great opportunities avail working closely with production manager. Must have general garment industry experience, be very organized and computer literate. Merchandiser/Buyer Assistant - Needed for busy design/production office. Assist production manager receiving and sending packages, distribute samples to design/production, order supplies, some communication with factories & shipping dept., follow-up on invoices and shipping docs. Manage and direct buying activity for full price stores & liaise with Italian headquarters regarding product assortments and buying strategy. Min 7-10 yrs contemp apparel exp. Sr. Account Executive Drive sales, distribution and market penetration of Sixty USA brands. Must provide sales reports & analysis including profitability, projections, and roll-ups. Min 5 yrs related sales exp. Jr. Account Executive Build/maintain relationships with accounts and pursue new business opportunities. Min. 2 yrs related sales exp. Sales Assistant Assist sales team in maintaining showroom, field sales related questions, order entry, compilation of reports & customer follow up. Some industry exp. preferred. Wholesale Planner Must be proficient in retail math, with ability to drive retail sales plans through strong analysis and forecasting. Min 5 yrs wholesale sales and retail planning. Merchandise Coordinators Work with dept. store accounts and in-store mgmt to drive sales, train, educate and motivate staff, merchandise selling floors and communicate with NY sales office. We offer excellent compensation and generous benefits package! Positions available on both East and West Coast. Please send resume to [email protected] MAXX New York OFFICE MANAGER Come join the fun and exciting world of Handbags! Maxx New York is seeking an experienced, hardworking individual to be the face of our company. You will be greeting clients, answering multi-line phone, data entry, along with day to day tasks. Must be a highly organized and polished individual with knowledge of Outlook and Excel. Photoshop a plus! Fax resumes to Tara at: 212-679-0311 Planning Manager/ Sr. Inventory Planner PRODUCTION SEWERS and HAND FINISHERS COMPANY DESCRIPTION Midtown Evening/Bridal Mfr. seeks highly SB Buying Co, a wholly-owned subsid- skilled F/T Production Sewers and iary of Bop LLC, keeps a close eye on Hand Finishers w/experience in Bridal / women’s fashion, purchasing and sell- Eveningwear. We offer a great working ing the acquired merchandise. SB environment with competitive salary & Buying Co. buyers obtain everything a excellent benefits. Must speak English. woman’s wardrobe needs, working Call: 212-971-0170, ext. 44 or Fax resume with over 200 designer labels. BOP to: 212-971-8682, Attn. Sylvia LLC runs Shopbop.com, a premier online shopping boutique for the fashion-savvy female. Shopbop.com is recognized by consumers and the $20M Runway Designer w/ 3 Divisions & media as an excellent one-stop fashion 200+ Styles per season seeks Prod’n VP Major Apparel co seeks individual to source. to Source China & India. Run all Prod’n buy fabric/trim in retail stores, e-mail T&A. Prod Devel/Techs. work w/ Sales/Dsgn production & follow up w/fabric deliv- JOB OVERVIEW [email protected] 212-947-3400 eries, organize sample yardage in office, Located in New York City, SB Buying photo all samples & keep files, maintain Co. is seeking a planning manager/sr. fabric, production and on order books, inventory planner to develop financial, brand, and category plans that maxipack up & organize samples for retailer meetings, create & attach hang tags, mize profitability and turnover. The Dress company looking for an experienced fashion research on net w/designer direc- positions will work to create merchan- receptionist. The Ideal candidate will tion and Product Packs for production. dise plans that tie to company sales, have a pleasant phone demeanor and will Must know Photoshop & Illustrator. gross margin, and turnover goals. be able to work well under pressure. Duties Need someone with good eye, good Candidates should have a thorough will include answering heavy phones, understanding of the industry and greeting customers, handling incoming/ outcommon sense and can do attitude!!! applicable experience related to the going packages, ordering supplies; Computer Fax resume to: 212-730-9705 position. skills and MS-Office a must. Email resumes Successful candidates will have 2-5 and salary requirements in confidence years of merchandise planning experi- to: [email protected] ence and a strong numerical and PRODUCT DEV/MERCHANDISING analytical aptitude. Strong communiSVP Level. 10 Yrs. Exp. $200K++ cation and organizational skills are a must, as is the ability to think and re1. Jr Handbags Expertise act in a high-energy, fast paced 2. Sleepwear Expertise environment. PRODUCTION COORDINATORS JONES NEW YORK INTIMATES Apply by email to: Accessories/Kids $45-65K Licensed By Madison Maidens Inc. [email protected] with CAD DESIGNERS "inventory planner" in the subject line. As Manager, you will oversee the Retail Handbags $60-75K Coordinator/Field merchandiser program. Responsibilities include: establishing Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or and monitoring field merchandisers loe-mail [email protected] cated throughout the country. Intimate KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Apparel experience preferred but not Garment Importer seeks detail oriented necessary, some prior field merchandiser person; Chinese/English bilingual req’d. or dept. store experience, necessary. Knowledge of garment construction. Min. Position based in Midtown, will require PATTERNMAKER 2 yrs. exp. Call or Fax resumes to Tom at: some travel. Must have strong commuTel: 212-564-2051 / Fax: 212-643-8150 nication (written and oral) and computer skills (Excel with formulas and Outlook). Must be accurate, organized and have ability to follow-through. Established Dress Manufacturer seeks EXCELLENT SALARY AND BENEFITS! a skilled Draper. Must have experience Growing Contemporary Sportswear with evening and daytime dresses. For immediate consideration, Collection seeks a highly motivated & MIN 10 years experience required. email resume with Subject Header: organized individual to assist in proFax resume to HR: 212-898-1211 Retail Merchandiser-Name, to: duction & design admin. Fabric and [email protected] trim sourcing/purchasing, collating invoices/receiving with purchase orders, monitoring fabric/trim deliveries Established Women’s Apparel Mfr. and production timelines, daily interBetter-Bridge Apparel Mfg. Seeks seeks a Patternmaker with a Women’s action with production and design Aggressive Salesperson. Draw /Commission Sportswear background including teams. Computer literacy a must. [email protected] 212-947-3400 lined constructed jackets, pants, Missy Please e-mail your resume to: and Plus size. Must have excellent [email protected] computer skills. Proficiency in Gerber PDS is highly preferable. Fax resume to Yelena: 212-444-6022 Fresh, young intimate apparel company has opening for samplemaker with 2-3 years experience to cut and sew bras, Womens apparel company seeks a highly panties and sleepwear and assist in Evening dress manufacturer seeks an organized, detail oriented individual. various sample room functions (i.e. experienced patternmaker in social Excellent computer skills a must min. dyeing, etc.) Must have ability to work occassion dress in missy and women’s 1-3 years exp. Fabric knowledge a plus. with different types of fabrics, knits, Please fax resume to: 201-964-5816 sizes. Fax Resume: 212-398-0654 wovens, laces as well as experience in sewing seamed (cut & sew) bras, bubble molded bras and foam cup bras. Position requires high degree of accuracy. Send resume to: [email protected] Runway Couture Dsgnr, Cstm Dept $150-200K Work w/ Socialites & Movie Stars Detail oriented person w/ a min of 5 yrs Couture -1st Prod’n Dress $100-150K experience. Must be organized and PDM Jacket Pattern Maker $100-135K able to manage costing & production Designer Jackets 1st Prod’n $100-125K process. Computer proficiency. E-mail Seeking an experienced Sample Maker Drapers/Dress 1st Pat Mkrs $70-90K resume to : [email protected] for Ladies’ Suit & Dress Mfr. Please Freelance Dress or Jackets $70-80K Call or Fax resumes to Tom at: [email protected] 212-947-3400 Tel: 212-564-2051 / Fax: 212-643-8150 PRODUCTION VP $200-$250K Merchandiser Assistant RECEPTIONIST NEW JOBS! RETAIL COORDINATOR FIELD MANAGER Production Assistant Draper/ First Patternmaker PRODUCTION ASSISTANT PATTERNMAKER SALES ASSISTANT $30-40K SAMPLEMAKER PATTERNMAKER PATTERN MAKERS Production Coordinator Production Manager Sample Maker PIECEGOODS/ TRIM BUYER Womens designer apparel co. seeks fabric and trim buyer to source, purchase and create trim packs. Must have min 5 years experience with import/domestic , excellent follow-up and computer skills required. Please email resume to: [email protected] Production Mgr & Assistants Special occassion dress importer seeks a production manager and an assistant. Please call 212-944-8860 or Fax Resume to: 212-944-9493 Production Professionals ALL LEVELS $25-40k [email protected] SAMPLE RM MGR $200-$400K Bi-lingual Italian. Run 1st-Prod’n & Q/C. Household Name Designer, Staff of 30 Pattern Making background A+ [email protected] 212-947-3400 SPEC TECH................................40-45K Wal Mart A+Measure /Spec Garments Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 [email protected] www.srisearch.com SWEATER CUT & SEW TECHNICAL DESIGNER Min. 5 years exp in Contemp/Women’s Market. Web PDM, specing, pat corr and grading knowledge a must. Self motivator with strong communication skills with overseas factories. E-mail resume with salary requirements to: [email protected] or fax to: 212-302-3482 SWEATERS *TD-Mens Young, Edgy Designer $75K *Prod’n Coord-womens bet Japan mfr $65-75K [email protected] 212-947-3400 TECH DESIGNER Faviana, a special occasion design house seeking highly qualified, organized & creative person with min. 3 yrs. exp. Must be computer proficient! Become part of our talented & successful team! E-mail resume: [email protected] Production Coordinator - Production follow-up, PO tracking, style master set-up, spec garments, update tech packs, communication with factories and import department. Must have experience, great follow thru and be able to multi task. Must know excel. AS400/Appcon a plus but will train. Please fax to: (212) 328-1281 or email: [email protected] PATTERNMAKER DESIGN TO PRODUCTION DESIGNER /CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR COLLECTION ***10 YEARS PLUS EXPERIENCED APPLICANT ONLY*** WORK DIRECTLY WITH THE DESIGNER RESUME [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGN ASST Will design for our Junior Division Kool Hearts- doing woven/knits. Must be detailoriented with 2-3 years exp. Will review fits, spec garments, prepare production packages,approve B’looms/color accessories and coordinate with Sales/ Production. Must know grading and posses good communication skills. Will have daily correspondence with overseas factories and report to the head Technical Design. We offer competitive salary and benefits. Please email resume to: [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER Absorba & Juicy Couture Baby, seeks candidate w/min. 3 years exp. & knowledge of garment construction. Team player for fast paced environment; good salary/benefits. Fax or E-mail resume to: 212-714-0401 / [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNERS *Sr TD Manager Better Mkt $100-130K *Sr TD-Suits Better Market $90K *TD-Cut & Sew Knits $90K *Denim TD-Washes $80-90K *TD Outerwear Bottoms $75K+Bonus *Spec Techs $45K *Freelance TD’s Wovens/Knits $30-50/hr [email protected] 212-947-3400 Technical Designer Ladies suit manufacturer is seeking a detail driven Tech Designer to organize & attend all fittings; measure samples, and write approval comments for fit thru production samples. Will also send tech. packages to factories. Must be a clear and concise communicator. Must have sewing knowledge & know garment construction. Must be proficient in Excel, Word. Illustrator, & Micrografx a plus; Minimum 3 years experience as a tech designer. Good benefits. Email cover letter and resume to [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER Major apparel company seeks graphic designer for junior girls line "Pastry" from the hit MTV show "Run’s House. Responsibilities include developing graded size specs, conducting fittings, communicating fit comments and correspondence with factories. FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Growing high-end women’s designer is seeking a high energy sales account executive with a min of 5 yrs experience. Candidates must have established high-end women’s retailer relationships with major luxury retailers and independent specialty stores. Must be organized, detailed, and proficient in sales reporting and systems . This position will report to the Dir. of Sales & Marketing, and will entail regional travel for trunkshows, events, & prospecting. We offer a competitive salary and pleasant work environment. To apply, please fax your resume and cover letter indicating your salary requirements to: 212.246.8617 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEGIRLS Danskin, Inc., well established active apparel co has an immediate opening for experienced Account Executive to manage accounts nationwide. Strong, min. of 5 yrs, background selling children’s wear req. Active wear exp. a +. Strong retail math, planning & account mgt skills a must. Based in NY. Travel is required. Competitive compensation & benefits package. E-mail resumes to: [email protected] or Fax resumes to: (212) 930 - 9103 EOE/M/F/D/V CORPORATE SALES REP Sales Executive XCVI is seeking a full-time corporate sales rep for the NY region to work out of our showroom in NY. Candidates must have at least 5 years wholesale experience, with a strong customer base in the east coast (esp. with specialty boutiques of contemporary and missy-contemporary markets). Experience with majors a plus. This position offers an excellent salary, benefits and commission (commensurate with experience). To apply, please email your resume, cover letter and salary history to: [email protected] No phone calls, please. NEW YORK BASED Contemporary Cut/Sew & Sweater Knits Co. seeks a motivated Professional to maintain existing account structure, as well as develop new business. Must be an organized team player, and possess strong presentation skills. Candidate must have 5 years experience working w/major Dept. Stores/Discounters. Salary negotiable, based upon experience. E-mail resumes to: [email protected] SALESPERSON Established Children’s Dress Co. seeks Salesperson with major following. Call 516-239-1116 or Fax resume: 516-239-1910 Sales $75-100K Base + commission. Exp in kids or jr. jeans req’d. Will service already established accounts such as Kohl’s, JCPenney etc. Mdtn name brand. [email protected] Growing multi-brand showroom seeks exp’d. sales person w/solid contacts w/ better Specialty/Dept Stores. strong admin., computer & follow-through req’d. Salesperson Sales Account Executive Major apparel company seeks sales account executive with experience in junior markets for junior girls line "Pastry" from hit MTV show "Run’s House". Will manage existing accounts and aggressively pursue new sales leads. Retailer contacts a plus. Excellent salary and comprehensive benefits package. Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 + Asst. Sales Detail oriented, ambitious, self-starter w/ excellent phone manners, computer & org. skills a must. Salary commensu rate w/exp. E-mail: [email protected] 19 Regional Sales Reps TANIA NARDI Collex seeks exp road warriors for updated Missy line. Great %! See the collection: www.tanianardi.com Call 201-864-4300 / [email protected] SENIOR SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE The right candidate should have proven experience in growing fashion brands. Must have established retail relationships with better specialty stores, preferably in both sportswear and lingerie stores. Individual should have a minimum of 5+ years experience working with independent regional reps & specialty stores. Strong analytical, administrative, customer service and follow up skills required. Microsoft excel skills essential and travel to regional markets required. Must have an ability to prioritize in a fast paced environment. International and private label sales experience a plus. Reports directly to Vice President of Sales. E-mail resumes to : [email protected] Deﬁning style. Delivering results. Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail fpclassiﬁ[email protected] to advertise. - SALESPERSON WANTED - Leading New York based off-price specialist seeks motivated sales person. Must have minimum 3 yrs OP experience. Strong growth potential. Please fax Major apparel co. seeks detail oriented or email resume to attn Rick Bosch at: person with excellent computer and 212-629-4027 or High-end clothing store seeks energetic, organizational skills. Responsibilities [email protected] self-motivated person w/minimum 3 years include maintaining, preparing, and sales experience. Please Fax or E-mail printing reports and charts, tracking resumes (no telephone calls, please) to: inventory per season, organizing ...anything less would be stress! all 212-334-4961 / [email protected] hangtags & attaching tags to garments, Founded in 1996, bliss was spotted by maintaining files for current sales rebeauty-obsessed buzz-makers and quickly cords & archiving. Experience with mass massaged its way to the top. Seeking an merchants, AS400 & Wal-mart experi- Quality & Responsible vertical Apparel experienced Account Executive for the ence a plus. Excellent benefits. Maker in China. Office in NY. Seeking New York territory. This Sales Guru Salesperson who can generate private FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 would be responsible for the following: label sales. Salary + commission. E-mail: sales calls, account management, [email protected] toring and achieving sales goals, event coordination & recruitment. The ideal candidate must have analytical skills and be willing to work evenings and week- NYC multi-line showroom seeks a F/T ends. This road warrior, must also have enthisiastic Sales Consultant. Must be previous retail beauty sales & manage- willing to travel. Experience & Specialty Major NY apparel producer with Far East production facility seeks top rated ment experience and be able to travel Store relationships a plus. Fax resume to: salesperson to interact with buyers & extensively. Positive attitude a must!! 212-921-0467 Sr. mgmt. of major retailers. Must Apply now! E-mail your resume to: have solid industry relationships for [email protected] .com launch of a significant label. Generous compensation package. Opportunity of a lifetime. E-mail detailed resume: Established Importer of Novelty [email protected] Sweaters/ Knits & Outerwear seeks Leading US button co. seeks a highly a Sales Executive with strong Dept/ motivated individual for this outstanding Specialty Chain contacts to cultivate and rare opportunity. Individual must YOUNG, HIP JR. LINE new & maintain existing accounts. have strong customer following and Must have at least 5 years exp. Positive Seeking energetic Salesperson with est’d. sales. High earnings & growth existing contacts to expand and grow energy & strong follow-up a must. potential in NYC with possible future Call or fax resume to: Sandra Sadaka customer base. Top salary. Fax resume: management role. Please E-mail resume 718-947-1330 Tel: 212-302-3744/ Fax: 212-302-5184 to: [email protected] Email: [email protected] SALES ASSISTANT SALES ASSOCIATE travel Bliss... SALES Sales Consultant VP Sales SALES EXECUTIVE BUTTON SALES Leverage the power of WWD among industry professionals to reach both active and passive job seekers. Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassiﬁ[email protected] to advertise. WWD magazines FASHION WWDScoop ACCESSORIES CULTURE RAISING THE CURTAIN ON FASHION SEASON NEXT ISSUE: SEPTEMBER 4 CLOSE: JULY 31 For more information on advertising in WWD Magazines, contact Ralph Erardy, sr vp group publisher, at 212-630-4589.
© Copyright 2018