Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 25, 2007 • $2.00
Slope Side
Last winter’s warmer-than-usual weather and light
snowfall left some in the skiwear business hot under
the collar. But, while performance labels suffered,
high-end brands with crossover, ready-to-wear appeal
managed to thrive. Here, photographed at Aspen
Restaurant and Lounge, New York, Bogner Sport’s
fox-trimmed coat, worn over Tory Burch’s sequined
dress. For more, see pages 6 and 7.
The China Syndrome:
Senate Steps Up Push
For Yuan Revaluation
By Kristi Ellis
WASHINGTON — The U.S. government came
another step closer Tuesday to taking
punitive action against China unless
the economic powerhouse reforms its
currency, the yuan, and its trade policies.
Senators sent out a fresh draft of a bill
that targets countries, notably China,
that undervalue their currencies, calling
on them to take specific steps to reform
their policies or ultimately face U.S. and
World Trade Organization penalties.
The Senate Finance Committee is set
to consider amendments to the bill and
vote on it Thursday.
Global commerce and its impact
See Senators, Page 11
Fashion Fund Finalists Cover All Bases
By Marc Karimzadeh
urther proof there is no shortage of emerging
American design talent, this year’s 10 finalists
for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund are a diverse
but well-rounded group, with women’s, men’s and
accessories categories represented.
The finalists, who were revealed on Tuesday,
are Phillip Lim of 3.1 Phillip Lim; Erin Fetherston
of Fetherston Design Group; Nunthirat Koi
Suwannagate of Koi; Gabriel Asfour, Angela
Donhauser and Adi Gil of Threeasfour; Lisa
Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava; Victoria
Bartlett of VPL; Rogan Gregory of Rogan; Scott
Sternberg of Band of Outsiders; Michael Bastian,
and Philip Crangi of Philip Crangi Jewelry.
The fund, which was founded in 2003 by the
Council of Fashion Designers of America and
Vogue magazine, offers emerging talents a cash
prize and mentorship programs by top industry
leaders. This year, it received 101 applications,
the same number of entries as last year.
“It was probably one of the strongest list of candidates since we started, and really a difficult process
to select only 10,” said Steven Kolb, executive director
of the CFDA. “If there was an opportunity to add another three to five, we could have easily done that.”
The fund’s selection committee is scheduled to
meet with each finalist next month to review their
most recent work.
The selection committee consists of CFDA
president Diane von Furstenberg; Vogue editor
in chief Anna Wintour; Andrew Rosen, president
and founder of Theory; Patrick Robinson, executive vice president of design at Gap Inc.; Reed
Krakoff, president and executive vice president
of design at Coach Inc.; Jeffrey Kalinsky, president of Jeffrey New York and Jeffrey Atlanta, who
also has a senior fashion role at Nordstrom Inc.;
Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director
of Barneys New York; CFDA’s Kolb and its associate director, Lisa Smilor, and Vogue fashion news
director Sally Singer.
The winner, to be revealed at the 7th on Sale
kickoff gala on Nov. 15, will receive a monetary
award of $200,000. The two runners-up will receive $50,000 each. All three recipients will be
assigned a mentor and receive a year’s worth of
managerial guidance and support from a top industry executive.
For the first time this year, there also will be a
separate business advisory committee, which will
review the applications independent of the selection
committee. It consists of Paul Aberasturi, Diane von
Furstenberg’s chief financial officer; Richard Baker,
NRDC Equity Partners’ president and ceo; David
McTague, executive vice president of Liz Claiborne
Inc.’s partnered brands division; Tom Murry, president and chief operating officer of Calvin Klein Inc.,
and Stephen Ruzow, president of the Calvin Klein
bridge and better women’s sportswear division at
Kellwood Co., who will be the committee’s chairman. This committee also will be available to informally mentor the remaining seven finalists, as well
as the 30 alums of the fund, for the year.
“It’s a way for us to engage more people and
expertise,” Kolb said. “Everyone always says that
the mentoring is such an important piece. It’s another way to demonstrate the seriousness and importance of the fund.”
The fund is sponsored by partner Gap and
underwriters Barneys New York, Coach, Juicy
Couture, L’Oréal Paris, Nordstrom, Theory, Lord
& Taylor, Kellwood, Liz Claiborne and Vogue, as
well as donors Mulberry, Diane von Furstenberg
and Tommy Hilfiger.
Gianluca Brozzetti Quits Asprey
LONDON — Gianluca Brozzetti,
group chief executive of Asprey,
has abruptly departed the company he’s run for the last six years.
On Tuesday, an Asprey
spokesman would confirm only
that Brozzetti, who served as
chief executive officer since
2001 and helped rescue the company from bankruptcy last year,
had stepped down.
An industry source close to
Brozzetti, however, said the split
with shareholders Sciens Capital
Management LLC, a New Yorkbased private equity firm, and
Plainfield Asset Management
LLC, a Greenwich, Conn., hedge
fund, had been “perfectly amicable.” Another industry source
said Brozzetti and the chief
shareholders “agreed to disagree, and decided to go their
separate ways.”
The sources said Brozzetti
resigned last Friday. Brozzetti,
who is also an Asprey shareholder, did not return phone
calls Tuesday.
As recently as this month,
Brozzetti talked to WWD about
his plans for the luxury goods
brand. He called Asprey a “hidden jewel,” and said he planned
to open stores in Moscow and
New Delhi, expand further into
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Asia, and build up the product lines with creative director
Hakan Rosenius.
Earlier this year, Asprey unveiled the first ready-to-wear
line designed by Rosenius. In
the spring, the company opened
a new shop on Madison Avenue,
between 70th and 71st Streets
in Manhattan.
Speaking like a proud parent,
Brozzetti told WWD on July 2:
“Five years ago, there were only
two points of sale, now there are
20. We have a strategy of catching
up with other big luxury brands,
but we have to be realistic.”
For the last fiscal year ended
March 31, Asprey’s sales were
$42 million, and while Brozzetti
said they were good results, he
admitted, “There is still a long
way to go.”
An experienced fashion and
luxury goods executive, Brozzetti
took over the ceo’s role at Asprey
& Garrard in 2001, after the
company was purchased by
Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou
in 2000. Before that, he was president and ceo of Louis Vuitton.
Prior to Vuitton, Brozzetti
worked for Bulgari Group for 13
years, first as executive director
of its watch and jewelry divi-
sion and from 1993 as executive
vice president of its fragrance
division. His career has covered
various positions at Procter &
Gamble Co., McKinsey & Co. and
the Gucci Group.
But it was his role as ceo of
A&G Group, the now-dissolved
parent of the Asprey and Garrard
brands, that tested his managerial mettle. Although Stroll and
Chou embarked on their Asprey
and Garrard project with much
fanfare — and a lot of splashy
spending — the brands never
turned a profit. In fact, they were
ever-deepening money pits.
Stroll and Chou brought in
new shareholders, including
Edgar Bronfman Jr., Morgan
Stanley Private Equity and
the TAG Group to keep the
companies afloat, but to no
avail. In 2005, just a year after
Asprey opened a huge flagship
on Fifth Avenue in New York
and reopened on Bond Street
— at 40,000 square feet, it was
Europe’s largest luxury goods
store — the company’s shareholders were already bickering
about who would make the next
cash injection. They began quietly shopping the brands around.
While the shareholders argued, it was Brozzetti who took
over the rescue mission. He
and his team got Deloitte on
board and, with the blessing of
HSBC and the other banks, put
A&G Group into receivership.
Brozzetti sold the brands in a
debt-for-equity swap, with the
value of the business effectively
nil. Sciens Capital Management
and Plainfield Asset Management
paid an estimated $80 million to $100 million for both
brands. Three days later, Asprey
International, the newly minted
parent of both brands, spun off
Garrard to Ron Burkle’s Yucaipa
Companies for an estimated $20
million to $30 million.
Last year’s light, late snow season in much of the country served as a
wake-up call for skiwear manufacturers and retailers.
The Senate is set to take up legislation that calls for potential punitive
action against China if it fails to reform its currency and trade policies.
Gianluca Brozzetti, group chief executive officer of Asprey, has abruptly
departed the company he has run for the last six years.
The 10 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund are a diverse, wellrounded group, with women’s, men’s and accessories all represented.
Icelandic investment group Baugur, which has shares in London’s PPQ
and Matthew Williamson, has taken an 8.1 percent stake in Saks Inc.
Aeffe SpA shares fizzled in their stock market debut Tuesday, losing 4.6
percent on their first day of trading.
After a year of wooing back customers and reworking product, sales at
St. John are rising and retailers appear encouraged.
MAINSTREAM: Swimwear was a round-the-clock affair in Miami Beach,
with the Swimshow during the day and IMG fashion shows every night.
WEST: Aioli Co., a $100 million South Korea apparel maker, is revving up
its U.S. profile in a prelude to an initial public offering.
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In Brief
● BURMA STILL BANNED: The Senate and House have approved a resolution to extend a ban on all imports from Burma,
also known as Myanmar, for another year. President Bush
signed a bill banning all imports, mostly apparel, in July 2003
in response to a crackdown by the country’s military dictatorship on the elected opposition. Deteriorating human rights
conditions had prompted U.S. apparel importers to voluntarily
halt business with Burma, where the military has invested in
garment production.
● TIME FOR A CURE: For the second year, Guess Watches has
teamed up with the Susan G. Komen for the Cure organization to offer a G2G Sparkling Pink Guess watch. Retailing for
$100, the watch is an adjustable bangle style with a steel linked
bracelet adorned with G Guess logos. It’s decorated with 81
pink Swarovski stones designed in the shape of the breast cancer ribbons. From September until March, Guess and Guess
Watches will guarantee a minimum donation of $25,000 to
the charity in honor of breast cancer awareness. In addition,
Guess and Guess Watches will donate 20 percent of the proceeds from each watch sold. They are available at Guess retail stores throughout the U.S. and Canada and guess.com. Last
September, Guess introduced its first Sporting Pink watch to
support the breast cancer charity, and the following month it
became the number-one selling watch at Guess retail stores.
Since the initial collaboration, Guess and Guess Watches have
donated $54,700 to Susan G. Komen for the Cure.
News In Real Time
Get instant access to everything you need to know about the fashion
and retailing business. WWD.com is the gateway to the WWD
Archive, more than 80,000 stories dating back to 1994. For more
information, visit wwd.com.
Baugur Builds 8.1% Stake in Saks
LONDON — Icelandic investment firm Baugur Group has accumulated an 8.1 percent
stake in Saks Fifth Avenue, becoming the luxury chain’s second largest investor.
Baugur spent about $250 million, or $22 a share, to invest in Saks over the past few
weeks, according to Securities and Exchange Commission filings.
Baugur’s strategy for Saks is unclear. A Baugur spokesman declined to comment
on whether the group intends to further build up its stake in Saks and seek control of
the business. A source close to the company said that was not Baugur’s strategy.
However, Aslaug Magnusdottir, vice president at Marvin Traub Associates, who
formerly ran Baugur’s venture business unit, observed: “If you look at the history of
Baugur, it could go either way. There are examples of the company building up stakes
in public businesses to [ultimately] control them, and examples of taking stakes in
companies they believe to be undervalued and later selling the interest.”
Magnusdottir also noted that Baugur has expressed intentions to expand internationally.
Saks had no comment. “It’s our policy not to comment on shareholders,” said Julia
Bentley, senior vice president of investor relations and communications at Saks Inc.,
the parent of Saks Fifth Avenue.
Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim Helú, with other family members and through
Immobiliaria Carso SA De CV, remains the largest shareholder with nearly 13.3 mil-
Vuitton Turns Windows Over to Students
By Miles Socha
A View of the Vuitton
PARIS — The kids are in
control at Louis Vuitton
— at least for the holiday
Instead of collaborating with a high-profile
contemporary artist, as
it has in recent years,
the French luxury giant
tapped two young graphic design students from
London’s Central Saint
Martins College of Art
and Design to decorate
its more than 370 stores
during the crucial selling period.
After commissioning the likes of Olafur
Eliasson, Ugo Rondinone
and Robert Wilson to
imagine its Christmas
displays, Vuitton organized a design competition at the famous school, asking students to draw inspiration from Vuitton’s history and image.
The winners, 21-year-old Christopher Lawson from Ireland
and 26-year-old Marcos Villalba from Spain, took the location
of Vuitton’s historic Asnières workshop on a map as a starting
point, re-creating its contours into an abstract landscape.
The windows will be unveiled in London in early November
and displayed throughout the holiday period.
“This year, we decided to give emerging talents the chance
to freely express themselves and their vision of the brand,”
said Yves Carcelle, chairman and chief executive of Louis
Central Saint Martins, which offers courses in fine art, fashion, graphics, 3-D design and performance, has produced such
designers as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Stella
lion shares, or 9.3 percent. Baugur is the largest institutional investor, followed by
FMR Corp. at 10.5 million shares, or 7.38 percent of outstanding shares.
Baugur’s interest in Saks is hardly surprising. Last summer, Baugur led a consortium that took over midmarket U.K. department store chain House of Fraser. It has
since taken House of Fraser private.
Baugur also holds a 5 percent stake in midmarket U.K. department store retailer
Debenhams, but Baugur said in a statement last week it had no intention to bid for
the British chain.
Magnusdottir and another source concurred that Baugur may use its stake in Saks
to help introduce its fashion labels into the U.S. market.
Baugur Group’s other British investments include the jewelry retailer Goldsmiths
and the toy emporium Hamleys; women’s apparel chains Jane Norman and MK One,
and Mosaic Fashions, which incorporates Karen Millen and Whistles.
Late last year, Baugur chief Jon Asgeir Johannesson said he was planning to open
a U.S. office in 2007, and to make acquisitions in the U.S. Baugur’s other fashion investments include a minority stake in Matthew Williamson, and a 50 percent stake in
PPQ, a label designed by Percy Parker and Amy Molyneaux.
Saks stock closed at $20.40 Tuesday on the New York Stock Exchange, down 77
cents from $21.17 the day before.
Cooper was a logical choice to moderate the YouTube-CNN
presidential debate on Monday, the Rupert Murdoch-owned
MySpace may choose more unconventional hosts to lead its
Town Hall discussions with 2008 candidates. Sources say
Ivanka Trump is being courted to serve as one of the moderators for the dozen or so upcoming MySpace
discussions to be held at college campuses across the country. Wendi Deng, wife of Murdoch, the founder
and chief executive of News Corp., suggested the idea to Trump, believing the real estate mogul and
occasional columnist for lad mag Stuff would be a great representative of the young, educated and upwardly
mobile voting population, a source close to News Corp. said.
Beginning in September, MySpace will host a series
of hour-long conversations during which one presidential
candidate will field questions sent by viewers at home via the
site’s instant messenger service. The talks will be broadcast
live via the site. Participants will include Sam Brownback,
Hillary Clinton, John Edwards, Rudy Giuliani, Duncan Hunter, John
McCain, Barack Obama, Mitt Romney and Tommy Thompson.
Sources say it has not yet been decided whether the broadcast
also will appear on Fox News. Trump and a MySpace
spokeswoman declined to comment. — Stephanie D. Smith
COVER GIRL: In August, Jennifer Lopez landed the cover of
Glamour, but come September, her face will be attached
to 16 different Condé Nast titles. The actress is the cover
girl for Fashion Rocks, the outsert that will be attached to
Glamour, Vogue, W, Allure, Self, Teen Vogue, GQ, Details,
Men’s Vogue, Architectural Digest, Lucky, Domino, Vanity
Fair, Condé Nast Traveler, Wired and The New Yorker. The
magazine promises “models on nearly every page” and articles
on artists such as Amy Winehouse, Carrie Underwood and Sean
Lennon. A spokeswoman said ad pages will range from 75 to
100 in each issue, which is 15 percent more than last year.
All will be revealed on Friday, when magazines start hitting
subscribers’ mailboxes. — Amy Wicks
BUMPING UP: Marie Claire editor in chief Joanna Coles has replaced outgoing senior fashion editor Eric
Nicholson by promoting fashion editor Zanna Roberts. Roberts joined the magazine in October, but before
that served for seven years at the title’s British edition, most recently as beauty and style editor. She also
was responsible for tapping Helena Christensen to shoot photographs of supermodels which appeared in a
photo feature in the August issue, and at the charity event Marie Claire held last week at Milk Gallery in
New York. Apparently Coles, a British transplant, appreciates those with similar roots — in May, Coles
hired Suzanne Sykes as creative director to replace Paul Martinez. Sykes most recently served as art director
for Britain’s weekly Grazia, and helped launch the British edition of Marie Claire. — S.D.S.
Banana Republic Ads Go Refined, Contemporary for Fall
The ads, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier
and styled by Joe Zee for the campaign themed
Urban Refined, will appear in magazines such
rban style for the creative class sums up
as Vogue, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Elle
Banana Republic’s sensibility for fall, which
Decor. The images also will run in newspapers, on
will play out in a fashion offering designed to sugbillboards and kiosks in major metropolitan areas
gest refinement and in the contemporary art and
and online at Yahoo HotJobs on a site slated to go
graphic images portrayed in its advertising, stores
live in August.
and products.
Reproductions of 54 works by 16 artists are to
“Our customers are creative souls, inspired by
be featured in Banana’s stores, including those
art and culture,” said Chris Nicklo, vice president of
by oil painter Liz Gribin, graphic artist James
marketing at Banana Republic, referring to the reWelling, digital artist Anne Sophie Stark and oil
tailer’s information about its consumers’ mind-set.
painter and photographer Jack Pierson. Framed art
The ad campaign’s creative director, Raul
pieces eventually will be sharing shelf space with
Martinez, was challenged in the campaign to conBanana’s clothing and hung on the walls of all of its
nect Banana Republic with a group he called the
locations in the U.S., Japan, Indonesia, Singapore
creative class. The effort to do so hinged on his
and the Middle East.
idea of abstracting the bold prints in the brand’s
Subsequent marketing campaigns will integrate
fall collection into works of art — art that will be
Banana’s fashion with other aspects of American
precursors to the reproductions of contemporary
culture, possibly music, theater or books. “The link
paintings Banana began to place last week in some
between the brand and art and culture will go on
of its 450 stores.
“The product is hero, but we are merging it with the cultural scene,” Martinez for the next two to three seasons, at a minimum,” projected Nicklo, who pointed out
said. “The boldness of the [fashion] prints inspired us to bring that into a painterly the retailer’s historic links with the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the
Museum of Modern Art in New York.
space — mainly black-and-white prints with lots of polkadots, florals, stripes.”
By Valerie Seckler
St. John Clicking as It Turns 45
IRVINE, Calif. — After a year of wooing back customers
and reworking product, sales at St. John are rising and
retailers appear encouraged.
The $400 million company based here says it has
something to celebrate as it marks 45 years in business.
Looking ahead, St. John plans brand extensions into
shoes, jewelry, handbags, eyewear and eventually fragrance, as well as a facelift for stores.
“Sales are up and our wholesale partners are
pleased,’’ interim chief executive officer Bruce Fetter
said. “The customer has been responding well to prefall and we’ve seen that through interaction and improved sell-through.”
Ann Stordahl, executive vice president of women’s
apparel at Neiman Marcus, echoed Fetter.
“[Sell-through] has been very strong,’’ she said. “We
have had a marketing campaign to target the core St.
John customer who may have temporarily left the brand
or was buying less, and we have had good results starting with the pre-fall collection. Our core customers
have been purchasing more than they have in the past.
Customers are very aware of [co-founder] Marie Gray
being back and are very excited by that.”
Stordahl said the customers are most pleased with
St. John’s return to a traditional fit. “The change in fit
was the biggest hindrance to sales, and customers are
now telling us they are very comfortable with the new
fit…the evolution of the brand, the new marketing and
the strength of the dress classification, which has had a
bigger penetration in the brand, has all helped.”
Debbie Palazzo, president of Miss Jackson’s in Tulsa,
Okla., which has been selling St. John for decades, said,
“You can see the difference very quickly. It’s probably too
early to tell on a long-term basis, but we are very encouraged and pleased with the new direction [of the line].”
Fetter attributed the brand’s change of fortune to
Kelly and Marie Gray
Bruce Fetter
and Lowell
chief merchant and head of design Lowell Breving, and
Marie Gray and her daughter, former creative director
Kelly Gray, who are consulting. The Grays, along with
Fetter, who had been co-president and chief operating officer, and vice president of design Maria D. Lopez
all returned to St. John after the departure of Richard
Cohen as president and ceo in April 2006.
Part of Cohen’s strategy to reverse shrinking profits
was to entice younger customers to St. John, a plan
that fell short. Many newer styles met resistance from
loyal and mature customers, who said the designs
didn’t have the same quality and fit as their previous
St. John clothes.
“Most of our designers have been here prior to the
Richard Cohen days and they understand the custom-
By Marcy Medina
Looks from
the 45th
er,” Fetter said.
St. John, which is still seeking a permanent ceo,
implemented a “win back” program targeting its best
“We took a real rifle-shot look at our most loyal customers who had not been shopping as of late, and we
reached out to them with special marketing materials
and incentives to let them know St. John is back doing
the kinds of things they would recognize,” Fetter said.
To celebrate the milestone year, the company created
an anniversary collection of signature knits inspired by
classic styles in the St. John archives. The gold, silver
and black pieces will hit stores in September.
“It’s a lively collection based on a lot of the vintage
pieces Mrs. Gray started the line with,’’ Kelly Gray said.
“There is a lot of eyelet and stitching detail and very
fluid, deconstructed silhouettes. It’s versatile and seasonless and the metallics bring to mind anniversaries
and celebration.”
Also in September, the company will stage another
runway show in Orange County to present its resort and
spring collections.
The company, in partnership with the Susan G.
Komen for the Cure organization, created the St. John
Collection for a Cause, eight limited edition looks in
pink with dark brown and cream accents that will go on
sale in St. John boutiques in October, with 10 percent of
proceeds going to the foundation dedicated to finding a
cure for breast cancer.
“Mom, Lowell and I agonized for weeks over that
pink, and we changed our minds three times before we
decided on it,’’ Kelly Gray said. “We wanted the line to
integrate with what we’ve done for fall.”
The company is also venturing back into nonclothing
categories. Shoes and jewelry will be back in boutiques
for holiday, handbags and eyewear around Jan. 1. The
company has found licensing partners, but declined to
disclose them. “We would rather make a big splash with
our partners,” Fetter said, adding that St. John is also
looking to reenter the fragrance market.
Although the product seems to be finding a balance
again (the classic suits are more visible in the latest
batch of ads starring Angelina Jolie), the stores are due
for freshening. The appointment of former Cole Haan
and Nordstrom executive Rick Chilcott as executive
vice president of retail comes as the company is working to create a prototype for a new look. It should be
completed in four months, then installed in three stores:
at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., in Dallas and
Palm Beach, Fla.
“The idea is to take a look at three different-sized
stores and see how concepts work in different formats
and from there we will develop strategies to take the
concepts further,’’ Fetter said. “We’ll have to see how
the customer responds before implementing it in
other locations.”
Aeffe SpA Shares Decline 4.6 Percent in First Day of Trading
By Amanda Kaiser
MILAN — Aeffe SpA shares fizzled in their stock market debut Tuesday, losing 4.6
percent on their first day of trading.
Already last week it was evident the IPO, Italy’s first fashion stock market offering in years, wasn’t sparking a great deal of investor interest. Despite demand for
nearly double the amount of shares on offer, Aeffe shares were priced at 4.10 euros
($5.66 at current exchange) a share, the bottom end of the initial valuation range.
Aeffe shares slid 4.6 percent to close at 3.91 euros ($5.41) on the exchange. They
underperformed the overall market, which shed 1.8 percent on Tuesday.
Few analysts are covering the stock since Aeffe is a relatively small company.
Alfredo Mele, a manager at financial Web site ipo.it, said Aeffe’s price-to-earnings
ratio is significantly more expensive than that of its luxury peers, including Mariella
Burani Fashion Group SpA, Valentino Fashion Group SpA and Tod’s SpA.
“[Aeffe] offers too vast a range of brands and strategic messages to…warrant the
valuation levels the company is asking of the market right now,” Mele said.
Regardless of the shares’ performance, the IPO still generated about 78 million
euros ($107.64 million) for Aeffe’s coffers. As reported, the company plans to use the
IPO-generated funds to develop its portfolio of fashion brands, including Alberta
Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini. It also has a licensing deal to produce ready-to-wear
for Jean Paul Gaultier.
Although Aeffe’s debut was a difficult one, it doesn’t necessarily reflect a dearth
of market appetite for luxury goods companies. With annual sales of 275 million
euros ($346.5 million), Aeffe is considerably smaller than Prada SpA and Salvatore
Ferragamo SpA, both of which are also eyeing stock market listings. The firm also
lacks the international profile of many other brands.
“Alberta Ferretti and Moschino are more like niche brands and evidently they
didn’t succeed in winning over investors,” Mele said.
An Aeffe spokeswoman said the company is monitoring the shares’ performance and
withholding any further comments until it issues second-quarter results on Friday.
AUGUST 11-14, 2007
AUGUST 12-14, 2007
HRSP_WWD_FullPgAd.indd 1
4/30/07 4:40:05 PM
Snow Daze
Eider’s jacket, top and pants. Adidas by Stella McCartney boots.
idea that we
that works back
home…is one
reason we continue
to do well despite
lower snow years.
When it comes to snowfall, more
is always merrier for ski resorts.
Unfortunately, that was not the case
across the country last season.
collar, sell-throughs of Bogner goods at stores
last season were up 10 percent; its initial
sales going into next season are already up 15
et it snow — early.
That’s the hope of businesses catering percent, before reorders, which typically take
to the ski crowd this winter. Whether isolated place in November and February. “As somebad luck or the result of global warming, last one really in the high-end market, our retailyear’s light, late snow season in much of the ers sell way before Christmas, before people
country served as a wake-up call for skiwear realize what type of winter they will get,” said
manufacturers and retailers who are discov- Peter Born, president of Bogner of America.
That said, Bogner is taking considerable
ering the dramatic downside of hyperspecialization. Many of the dozen ski-centric stores measures to cope with the threat of global
WWD surveyed suffered their worst season warming. Sportswear offerings now make up 20
in years, with some reporting retail sales dips percent of its merchandise, a component Bogner
of more than 30 percent. The lone bright spot: expects to reach 50 percent in the next three
to five years. But the firm is
the luxury sector, in which
not just focused on the bothigh-end specialty stores in
tom line. “Whether what
resort towns are coming off
we experienced this year is
a strong year, success they
because of global warming,
attribute to the fashionable
I can’t judge. But the overall
merchandise that transpicture shows global warmlates well off the mouning is definitely an issue,”
tain, as well as to a base of
said Born. “We started thinkconsumers whose buying
ing about this fact years ago,
habits are not tied to local
and we started a program insnow conditions.
ternally because we believe
Tom Bowers, owner of
everyone can do something
Tommy Bowers Ski in Vail,
about this issue.”
Colo., and Performance
For example, Bogner
Ski in Aspen, Colo., says
gives its employees $500 if
his businesses rarely sufthey purchase fuel-efficient
fer from weak snow years,
— Tom Bowers, cars, and the company reand that he has increased
designed a limited
his open-to-buy 10 percent
Tommy Bowers Ski cently
edition jacket (shown on
for the upcoming season.
page one). The jacket is
“We don’t find drops in
sales from lower snow falls,” Bowers said. “The technically a ski coat, but fashionable for daily
people who come to our shop don’t necessarily wear, and 10 percent of the revenues will go to
have to ski 100 days to warrant buying an outfit. Al Gore’s “The Climate Project.”
Boulder, Colo.-based Spyder also enjoyed
Just the thought of skiing is worth buying a few
outfits.” Bowers invests about half his buy into strong growth last year, according to the North
“stuff that is functional on the hill and is also American director of sales Jeff Sale, who refashionable around town,” such as Moncler, Post ports that bookings are up 30 percent over
Card of Italy, Matador and Prada. “The idea that last year. Nevertheless, regional sales were
we sell winter clothing that works back home in impacted by the amount of snow. According to
New York City or in Des Moines, Iowa, is one Sale, business in the Rockies and Northwest,
reason we continue to do well despite lower which had strong snow, were vibrant, while the
Northeast, upper Midwest and eastern Canada
snow years,” he said.
For Newport, Vt.-based Bogner, mean- suffered weaker snow and thus poorer sales.
Weather-related deficiencies were mitigated
while, where the standard ski jacket wholesales from $400 to $700, but can go as high as by cross-regional sales facilitated by spyder.com,
$4,000 for a jacket with a removable sable fur and, Sale said, by the firm’s strong reputation
By Whitney Beckett
Prada’s jacket,
sweater and pants.
Fashion Scoops
AFTER HOURS: Prada will be among those spicing up the post-show
party scene during New York Fashion Week. On the heels of last
year’s performance by Jack White’s The Raconteurs, the Milan
house plans to host another bash at its SoHo store on Sept. 7, this
time with a private concert by new rockers The Hours. Last year’s
shindig was a celebrity magnet, with the likes of Orlando Bloom, Liv
Tyler, Eva Mendes, Mischa Barton, Winona Ryder, Jennifer Jason Leigh
and Lisa Marie Presley rocking to the tunes. This year, there could
be a sighting of Damien Hirst, who is friends with The Hours’ Antony
Genn and Martin Slattery, and financed their debut album. He also
created the skull image for the album cover.
DOLLED UP: Alber Elbaz is giving the concept of collectable fashion a
new twist. The Lanvin designer has teamed up with the Taiwanese
craftsman Franz to create a series of miniature porcelain dolls
wearing signature looks from his collection. The hand-painted,
stiletto-wearing figurines, starting with this fall-winter season, will
each be produced in a limited series of 800 and cost 250 euros, or
$345, a pop.
From left:
The North
Face’s coat
and pants and
sweater. Erin
Snow’s coat,
blouse and
knickers. Hue
tights; Joan &
David shoes.
CRYSTAL BALL: Industry veteran Hervé Martin, most recently product
general manager of Ferragamo, has exited the Florentine firm.
According to market sources, he is headed to Starwood in a senior
management role. He could not be reached for comment. Martin
is perhaps best known as the longtime president of Kenzo. He has
also worked at Louis Vuitton and Cartier.
GOOD CLEAN FUN: Maggie Gyllenhaal will have the chance to show off
any noirish tendencies in the upcoming Batman sequel “The Dark
Knight,” but the actress was all sunshine and smiles last week in
Nantucket, Mass. The actress and Peter Sarsgaard stole away with
their daughter Ramona to one of The Summer House’s fishermen’s
cottages in Sconset. After dining at the Summer House Restaurant,
Gyllenhaal, Agent Provocateur’s new poster girl, and her beau sidled
up to the piano to sing along with other diners.
From left: Jacket from Moncler
Gamme Rouge and Helly Hansen’s
pants. Burton’s jacket, top and
pants. Adidas by Stella McCartney
boots; Oakley sunglasses.
among retailers. “There’s always some place with
good snow,” said Sale. “In those areas where it is difficult, the strength of our brand carries us through.
When stores make their buy, they will invest in the
brands that they know will sell through, and the
smaller brands are the last to be bought.”
Erin Snow, whose ski jackets wholesale from
$350 to $600, is one such smaller brand. According
to founder Erin Isakov, all of the firm’s merchandise can do double-duty off the slopes. In addition,
it’s launching a sportswear collection for winter.
“We’ve had a twofold experience this year,”
said Isakov. “Our existing retailers, which are
top-end retailers carrying luxury ski brands,
weren’t as affected by the weather because it’s
early in, early out. Their customer is one who
doesn’t wait until she needs something — she
buys it when she sees something she loves.
“On the other hand, picking up new accounts,
stores that sell a mix of high- and midtier brands,
those retailers were really hardest hit, and we
haven’t been able to open many new accounts
because of the weather. Those retailers are sitting on so much stock from last season that they
will just be selling that, cutting back existing accounts and definitely not adding new vendors.”
One line has already dropped out of the winter
lineup. Orders were too small to justify production,
so Ellesse put its luxury ski line, which relaunched
after a decade-long hiatus, on hold until 2008.
Retailers focusing on midpriced lines have
also found rough going. Sundown Ski & Surf in
Levittown, N.Y., which saw its margins fall 30 to
40 percent, will return last year’s basic stock to
the floor, according to buyer Heather McVicar.
Danzeisen & Quigley, a ski store in Cherry Hill, N.J.,
saw even more stunning decreases in sales — a full
50 percent — and as a result cut this year’s opento-buys by the same amount. The store will also return unsold inventory to the floor. “There were not
enough customers to know if it’s last year’s [product] or not,” buyer Gretchen Quigley said ruefully.
Jackson Dill, the owner of Sportif Ltd. in
Greenwich, Conn., concurs. “I’ve had this business
for 25 years, and this is by far the worst season we’ve
ever had,” he said. “If it’s 60 degrees Christmas
week, you can run ads all day and people won’t come
in. When you don’t have a winter until late January,
there’s not an immediate need for ski apparel. You
get to a point in the season where you have to salvage somehow, some way, and put clothing on sale
early, so our window is greatly diminished.”
Sportif suffered a 28 percent drop in sales for
winter, and initial open-to-buys this year are down
35 percent in clothing and more than 50 percent
in hard goods. “One of the things you learn is you
have to be very tight when you buy. We look for
what customers responded to early [last year],”
Dill said. “If next year is anything like this year, it
will be devastating for this industry as a whole.”
COMING OF AGE: Christos Garkinos and Cameron Silver, co-owners
of Los Angeles designer consignment store Decadestwo, hosted
a party last Wednesday night to celebrate the boutique’s recent
expansion, followed by cocktails at Social Hollywood that drew the
likes of Garcelle Beauvais, Alyson Hannigan and Joely Richardson.
China Chow, dressed in a vintage black lace Lanvin dress, couldn’t
resist perusing the store’s new inventory, which includes a rack of
Tom Ford-era Gucci pieces. “When I come into the store, I act like
I work here,” she joked. “I’m in the back rifling through things,
telling them to take things off of eBay.”
Ali Larter, clad in a Balenciaga jacket and vintage Levi’s, shared
Chow’s enthusiasm for the store. “I’m always here,” she said. “I pop
in on random Tuesdays at 10 o’clock when I need something yummy.”
Jared Leto dropped by to lend support to his mother, Constance
Leto, whose jewelry line, Linda + Constance, was on display. Leaning
over the glass case of baubles, Leto pointed to a small cluster. “Look
at this nice little pile of sold things,” he said with pride.
Silver, who recently returned from consulting stints in Europe
for companies including Pringle and Samsonite, said, “It feels like
we’re really grown-up now. Combined, Decades and Decadestwo are
18 years old — we’re finally legal!”
SHOW TIME: Commuun, the rising eco-oriented, Paris-based brand
designed by Japanese duo Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate, will be
staging its first show this October. The brand recently scooped up
two Andam awards from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and
Longchamp that will help finance the show. “The collection will be
much lighter with lots of transparency,” commented Hori. Since
starting out in 2006, Commuun has sold its clothes in stores such
as Corso Como 10 in Italy and Dover Street Market. New accounts
tapped since the launch of the brand’s first pre-collection for spring
2008 include L’Eclaireur in Paris and Bergdorf Goodman and Saks
Fifth Avenue in New York.
MINI PHAT: Russell and Kimora Lee Simmons aren’t the only
designers in the Phat Fashions empire. Their daughters, Ming Lee,
seven, and Aoki Lee, four, are fast becoming designers in their own
right. The sisters will launch their own collection, called Ming and
Aoki, at a tea party and runway show at their mom’s Baby Phat
showroom this morning. Event organizers hinted the launch will
be sweet-filled, with a Candy Land theme, to showcase the new
children’s collection.
GIRL POWER: Fashionistas made room for actionistas last Thursday
when Warner Bros. celebrated the latest collection of apparel
and accessories for its Supergirl brand at action sports shop
Nine Star in Los Angeles. Hosted by a committee of female
athletes, including pro surfers Holly Beck and Serena Brooke and
seven-year-old skater Alize Montes, the party highlighted the
famous S-shield recast in pink, white and purple on women’sonly items such as $54 string bikinis from Rip Curl and a $30
T-shirt from Surf Diva. Celebrity guest Brooke Burke, who knows
about taking risks as the former skydiving and crocodile-fighting
host of adventure TV show “Wild On,” said she hopes her three
daughters, who range in age from six months to seven years,
will grow up to be supergirls. “The most daring of all is the sixmonth-old,” Burke said. Warner Bros. plans to nurture more
actionistas when it will host an all-girl action sports jam mixing
music, fashion and athletic activities including a surf demo and
skateboarding in San Diego on Sept. 16.
In the Mainstream
Miami Swimshow Doubles as Beach Bash
Exhibitors, chastened by all the dark-colored swimwear last year that didn’t sell well, made sure they had
MIAMI BEACH — Swimwear was a round-the-clock af- plenty of color in their collections, especially red, orfair here this month with the Swimshow during the day, ange, yellow and a range of blues.
Prints were inspired by modern art, geometric
IMG Fashion shows running in three tents every night
and enough after parties to test the endurance of the shapes and vintage designs, and often combined with
stripes, dots and other treatments.
most enthusiastic South Beach reveler.
Despite less overt embellishment than recent years,
It all began with a lavish kickoff July 10 at the
Raleigh Hotel, where IMG Fashion, sponsored by shine and glitz were still alive, from fabric treatments
Mercedes-Benz, set up three tent venues for 16 fashion such as foils and metallics to hardware. Metal trimmed
shows July 10 to 14. Models paraded around the shal- suits in rings, studs, crystals and rhinestones.
One-piece silhouettes returned, though mostly in
low water of the huge pool’s perimeter, while The Beach
Boys performed live to an audience of 800, who partied cutout shapes with deep plunges. Bikinis featured more
high-waisted, belted bottoms and overpoolside afterward.
the-shoulder tops. Exhibitors expanded
“Our shows are about the mediacollections, particularly cover-ups.
Internet attention,” said Fern Mallis, se“We’re encouraging retailers to show
nior vice president of IMG Fashion, who
swimwear and cover-ups together on the
added that celebrities John Stamos and
floor and as a story, rather than sepaTyson Beckford attended, adding to the
rate them, which makes no sense,” said
buzz, along with Jessica Simpson, who
Lynne Koplin, president of women’s at
walked the runway July 14 to launch her
Tommy Bahama.
own swimwear line at The Shore Club.
Other lines emphasized the imporMallis said of the 16 lines at IMG, which
tance of reaching the consumer through
included Badgley Mischka, Red Carter and
marketing. Jantzen, which relaunched its
Ashley Paige, one-third were international,
line last year based on archival collecsuch as Cia.Maritima, a Brazilian line.
tions, spent $5 million on marketing and
Lycra brought a refreshing twist to
will increase that budget this year, said
IMG’s tents July 11, with “Reality Beach.”
Lori Medici, vice president of marketing.
Lycra solicited real women from the
Product and fit, rather than specific
Miami area to attend swimwear fit clincategories or brands, drove buying deics July 10 and 11 with Bobbie Thomas,
cisions at Everything But Water, the
host of Style Network’s “Fashion Police.”
Orlando-based swimwear chain that with
Fifteen local women, all ages and sizes,
two recent acquisitions added 30 stores
were selected to walk the runway July 11
A look from Jets by for a total of 72 stores nationwide.
in swimsuits made with Xtra Life Lycra.
“Swim is an ageless business and
“Trying on a swimsuit is the most horkickoff fashion show in product drives it,” said buyer Bridget
rible, scary thing a woman can do,” said
a tent at Nikki Beach. Strickline. “Brand is important, but it
Iris Revson, 49, who strutted her stuff in a
doesn’t trump fit. A suit can have no big
sexy black swimsuit with gold studs, along
with her 18-year-old daughter, who also modeled in the name, but perfect fit and women will buy it.”
Buyers from EBW, including the new president,
show. “This suit makes me proud of my good features. It
Sheila Arnold, shopped the show for five full days, takmakes me feel hot.”
Ninabeth Sowell, marketing manager for Invista, ing in the new trends. They were most pleased to see
makers of Lycra, said, “Our biggest challenge is reach- the return of color, including orange, coral, blues and
ing and educating the consumer. We know that fit is the purples, after last year’s dark palettes.
Strickline also noted the “return of bling,” though
most important thing to them.”
At the Miami Beach Convention Center, fit and the in more refined versions than previous seasons, with
search for color and new trend direction were foremost chains, hardware and sequined treatments. She liked
on buyers’ minds as they got their first look at Swimshow the option of cutout, one-piece suits, which she said
2008. Sponsored by the Swimwear Association of “are working at retail, for most customers.”
To battle mounting competition from discounters and
Florida, the show ran July 11 to 15 and celebrated its
promotional department stores, some specialty retailers
25th anniversary with 350 exhibitors.
An estimated 2,000 buyers attended, up 15 percent were seeking higher price lines, providing they have what
compared with last year, said Judy Stein, executive it takes to make consumers willing to shell out big bucks.
“Other stores can sell $29 suits, break price early
show director.
The Swimshow kicked off with a 218-piece fashion and offer coupons,’’ said Merrill Levin, owner of
show, attended by 1,400 people, held in a tent at Nikki Shirley & Co., a swimwear and resortwear store in
Newtown, Pa., a Philadelphia suburb. “We’re specifiBeach, a trendy South Beach nightspot.
Rosa Chá’s
during IMG’s
MercedesBenz Fashion
Week Miami
A style from Zimmermann’s
resort collection.
By Georgia Lee
cally targeting upscale customers.”
Citing Betsey Johnson, Becca, Karla Colletto, Gottex
and Maryan Mehlhorn as those that are resonating with
customers, Levin said she also focuses on year-round
stock, full-size ranges and customer service
Ben Schwartz, owner of Sunset Bay, a Chicago swimwear
store, also noted a return to glitz, in foil treatments and sequins. He praised lines such as Karla Colletto “that don’t
need embellishment, but rely on great design and fit.”
Schwartz bought Becca for its innovative prints and
Betsey Johnson’s vibrant blue and gold groups, and bustier silhouettes.
Susan Kaplan, owner of Teen Heaven in North
Palm Beach, Fla., said, “Fashion has been turned up a
notch. Better fabrics, embroidery and crystals are all
things that justify the higher prices manufacturers are
asking for suits.”
Kaplan said the industry had “cracked the $100 ceiling,”
with customers paying more than $100 retail for swimwear.
Describing her customer as “toe-dippers” rather than
hard-core surfers or beach girls, she bought fashion-forward swimwear, such as a lobster print bikini from Red
Carter, print separates from LSpace, and sophisticated
embellished suits with jewel details from Luli Fama.
Being Domenico Vacca
t’s a week after the screening of Glenn Close’s new FX drama “Damages” and designer Domenico Vacca is still aflutter from watching the actress transform into
ruthless lawyer Patty Hewes. “I had goose bumps,” he says. (The show debuted on
television Tuesday night.) Of course, Vacca has more reason than most to be excited
by cable’s latest leading lady. Close goes through 12 costume changes in the pilot,
always clad in Domenico Vacca, from head to alligator-heeled toe.
“She was perfect — spot-on,” Vacca says. “And not because she looked good —
she looked good for the part.” The Italian rattles off a list of high-powered workwear Close dons from his collection: silk shirts, cashmere bouclé suits, overcoats.
In fact, perhaps no designer was more equipped to dress Close’s litigating lass than
Vacca — he himself spent 10 years as a successful attorney.
It was the designer’s seamstress grandmother, Nicoletta Orciula, who introduced
him to fashion and also sent him with a swift boot-kick toward his lengthy stint in
law. Orciula had her own dressmaking business in Italy and, thus, Vacca spent his
childhood “among tailoring tables.” But she also warned him against a career in
fashion. “She said, ‘Don’t do anything that has to do with this,’ ” he recalls. “‘It’s a
lot of work, and you’re never going to become wealthy.’” So he eventually became a
lawyer and landed a job in Milan with Baker & McKenzie.
But kismet’s a funny thing. When the firm transferred him to New York in 1990,
Vacca found himself in fashion circles yet again, representing companies such as
Tod’s, Genny, Byblos, Malo and Ermenegildo Zegna. Soon, he launched a magazine
called Italia to showcase the labels and designs with which he was involved.
That was 1992. By 1997, he had stopped practicing law altogether, and in 2001, he
abandoned publishing to launch his own label, making use of the master Italian tailors
he had encountered during his travels. He opened his first store at Fifth Avenue and
59th Street the next year. Now, Vacca owns three New York boutiques and others in
Beverly Hills and Florida’s Bal Harbour and Palm Beach, with offerings that run from
his signature fine tailoring to eveningwear to accessories and jewelry. Next year, he
plans to open his seventh store, a 5,000-square-foot one in Atlanta, in which he’ll also
debut a home furnishing collection that’s, believe it or not, all made from alligator.
A Vaccaclad Glenn
Close in
The designer’s Madison Avenue store.
“The approach is, no problem. We can custom-make everything for you,” Vacca
says. “We have 2,000 fabrics for suits and jackets. Our alligator bags — we have 25
different colors.” It’s the kind of can-do mentality that has enabled him to carve a
name for himself in Hollywood, with costume credits in “Stranger Than Fiction”
and “Inside Man,” as well as the upcoming “The Night Watchman” and “The Kite
Runner.” Many of his own customers, Vacca says, are equally high-wattage. But perhaps there’s no better example of his on- and offscreen popularity than this: The
designer says he dresses Jeremy Piven’s character Ari Gold on “Entourage,” as well
as the real-life talent agent on whom he’s based, Endeavor Talent Agency founder
Ari Emanuel.
— Venessa Lau
L’Artisan Parfumeur Goes High-Tech With Home Scent
NEW YORK — L’Artisan Parfumeur plans to build upon
its home fragrance business with the introduction this
fall of Chez Moi, a device designed to scent a room with
timed micro bursts of fragrance.
The device, which is billed as a perfume diffuser
system, consists of a black box topped with a fragrance
holder and a spray nozzle. It features a silver touch
panel that turns Chez Moi on and off, and when the device is activated, it sprays a burst of fragrance vertically
from its top
ever y three
The batterypowered system, which is intended to be placed on a table or shelf,
uses small glass “beads” that are filled with fragrance
and designed to be loaded into Chez Moi by inverting
them on top of the device.
“It’s not just about technology,” said François Duquesne,
president of L’Artisan Parfumeur
U.S. “It’s about high fidelity —
the most loyal reproduction of a
scent in your home.”
ket, sales of Paul Smith scents declined 15 percent to
6.3 million euros, or $8.4 million, the company said.
Van Cleef & Arpels, whose license Inter Parfums SA
acquired in October 2006, contributed 4.6 million euros,
or $6.1 million, to overall sales in the half.
In June, Inter Parfums SA increased its stake in
men’s beauty brand Nickel to 100 percent.
By region, the U.S. represents 25 percent of Inter
Parfums SA’s total sales. Its European business grew 11
percent, and revenues in Asia increased 14 percent.
Inter Parfums SA said business in the second half
will benefit from holiday sales, a larger contribution
from Van Cleef & Arpels, plus the fall launches of Paul
Smith Rose and the first Roxy scent.
Despite currency fluctuations, Inter Parfums SA reconfirmed its full-year sales target of 245 million euros,
or $339 million at current exchange.
— Ellen Groves
Chez Moi from L’Artisan Parfumeur.
It’s not just
It’s about high
— François Duquesne,
L’Artisan Parfumeur U.S.
Chez Moi is priced at $230
and comes with a single Blue
Cedar scented fragrance bead,
which is designed to last 10 to
12 hours.
In addition to Blue Cedar, fragrance beads will be available in
four scents: Wild Blackberry, Fig
Tree Interior, Marine Mimosa
and Amber. A single bead is
priced at $20, while a box of
three costs $50 and a box of five
goes for $75.
The device will be launched
in September at L’Artisan’s six
company-owned stores in the
U.S. and another in Canada.
Industry sources estimate Chez
Moi could garner retail sales of
between $250,000 and $500,000
during its first year in the U.S.
— Matthew W. Evans
Inter Parfums Sales Up 9%
PARIS — Inter Parfums SA, the
Paris-based subsidiary of Inter
Parfums Inc., posted secondquarter 2007 sales of 52.5 million euros, or $70.8 million at
average exchange, up 9 percent
That showing helped the
firm’s revenues for first-half 2007
also increase 9 percent versus
first-half 2006 to 110.3 million
euros, or $146.6 million.
The company said in a
statement this performance
was achieved while it reorganized its distribution networks
in Germany, Spain, Italy and
the U.K.
Sales of its Burberry scents
increased 10 percent in the half
to 73.5 million euros, or $97.7
million. Inter Parfums SA said,
citing tracking firm The NPD
Group, that Burberry ranks
10th among women’s scents and
eighth among men’s fragrances
in the U.S.
Also in the half, the Lanvin
fragrance business rose 14 percent to 15.6 million euros, or
$20.7 million, thanks to a 40 percent jump in sales of its Eclat
d’Arpege line.
Due to a sluggish U.K. mar-
AUGUST 5-7, 2007
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10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007
The Have-Mores Want More
By Valerie Seckler
“With millions of millionaires and thousands of [other] people who can afford
a Louis Vuitton bag or a Prada suit, the very term luxury keeps getting debased,”
Robert Frank, author of “Richistan” (Crown Publishers, $24.95), stated simply.
One result of people getting wealthier far faster and at significantly younger ages
than they have historically is that luxury marketers will be pressed to keep giving
more to the new rich. More elaborate and expensive things will be in demand— status
symbols that “have always defined the truly rich,” projected Frank, who has chronicled the rapid run-up in wealth that is giving rise to a tier of Americans he dubs
Richistanis, who live in the realm of Richistan.
Even in Richistan, a class divide is emerging whereby the “have-mores,” as Frank
describes those with wealth of at least $10 million, are intent on purchasing things
that, among other things, set them apart from mere single-digit millionaires. Singledigit millionaires do not qualify as truly rich in the eyes of the author, a senior special
writer at The Wall Street Journal who writes a daily blog, “The Wealth Report.”
In 2004, there were nine million single-digit millionaire households among
the country’s then-112 million households. That compares with a considerably
more rarefied 530,000 households with wealth of $10 million and 110,000 households with wealth of $25 million, based on the Federal Reserve Board’s Survey of
Consumer Finance.
Nonetheless, the nine million households with a net
worth of $1 million represent a steep ascent from the less
than four million such households tracked by the government in 1995. And households with wealth of $1 million in
2004 represented 8 percent of the U.S. total, twice the 4 percent share 10 years earlier.
In an interview at the funky, fun, but decidedly unluxurious Mayrose Diner in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, Frank
expressed concern that the older couple portrayed in the
“Richistan” cover image — a satiric reinvention of Grant
Wood’s “American Gothic” painting — not give people the
idea his tale is one of an older crowd. The playful placement of a golf club in the man’s hand and a poodle in the
Robert Frank
arm of the woman, who stand before a McMansion, manicured lawn and swimming pool,
do suggest the sense of fun that
A Spending Record From Billionaireville: 2005 permeates many of the writer’s
stories about the lives of the
new rich and their (relatively)
fast money.
Net worth:
$1.2 billion
“If you take wealth too
seriously, you either get dePhilanthropy:
pressed or very angry,” sugAir charters/private jet:
gested Frank, who points out
House staff & personal assistants: $2.2M
in “Richistan” that about oneEntertaining at house:
third of the country’s wealth is
Annual real estate taxes:
held by the richest 1 percent of
its denizens.
Where do America’s style
Personal beauty, salon, spa:
moguls fit in? The Forbes list
of America’s richest in 2006 inNote: “a”: includes $80,000 for massages.
cludes Nike Inc. founder Phil
Knight, whose wealth it puts at
$9.6 billion; Ralph Lauren, with
$5 billion; Limited Brands Inc.
How one billionaire burns through his millions.
founder and chief executive of-
people with net worth of $100 million to $1 billion, is believed to be in
the thousands. Their chief sources
of wealth are business ownership
and equity. An Upper Richistani’s
average spending in 2006 came to
$182,000 on watches, $397,000 on
jewelry, $169,000 on spa services
and $311,000 on cars, according to
the book. “When you live in Upper
Richistan, your entire philosophy of
money changes,” Frank writes. “You
realize you can’t possibly spend all
of your fortune…in your lifetime
and that your money will probably
grow over the years even if you
spend lavishly.
“Still, Upper Richistanis have
occasional feelings of inferiority,”
Frank continues. “That’s because
they’re being overshadowed by the
residents of Billionaireville.” There
were only 13 billionaires in the U.S.
in 1985. Current lists range widely. In
2006, Forbes highlighted more than
400 citizens of B-ville in its annual
list of richest people, while Leslie “Richistan”: Don’t let their ages fool you.
Mandel’s Rich List Co. claims more
than 1,000 names, a roster Mandel began compiling in the Sixties through her investment banking and fund-raising endeavors.
Like many of the new rich, recently minted billionaires prefer to keep a low profile. This won’t keep America’s millionaires and billionaires from stretching higher
for status, however. In Richistan, the word affluent is an insult reserved by many for
Lower Richistanis.
Frank cops to the view of economist Robert H. Frank (no relation), who expects the
country’s wealthiest to keep spending more for their luxuries, a level the 39-year-old
“Richistan” author described as “a new, irrational reference point consumers will use
when making their own purchasing decisions.” These days, that could mean signaling
wealth by, say, choosing a $50,000 watch rather than a $25,000 model, or replacing an
$89.95 gas grill with a $5,000 Viking-Frontgate Professional Grill.
Size does matter. For example, there were 30,000 homes larger than 5,000 square
feet built in 2005 — more than five times as many as in 1995. The least pricy of three
Richistani vacation homes on the market early this year, Frank reports, “is an estate
near Lake Tahoe named Tranquility, built by a cofounder of Tommy Hilfiger [Joel
Horowitz], boasting a private lake, conservatory, boathouse, stable, gymnasium and
garage space for 17 cars,” he continues. “The home’s staircase is a replica of the SS
Titanic’s, and the marble flooring in the entryway is patterned after the New York
Public Library’s.”
Grander or glitzier alone won’t always cut it with those intent on proving their status, now a never-ending effort as the bar keeps getting raised by the rapid accumulation of wealth by the country’s richest. Oftentimes, it will take an improvement in the
functionality of top-end things to command their ever-climbing prices, Frank advised
in the interview. Yachts so long that they need to dock with oil rigs in industrial ports
instead of in marinas in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., or Monaco are not likely to impress
one’s friends, he said, only half kidding.
Designer fashion is likely to see a groundswell in demand for one-of-a-kind and
made-to-measure clothing — and more so as mass marketers keep adding designer
names and one-off collections. “Too many brands want to cash in quickly, and in the
long term that’s death to a luxury brand,” the wealth expert noted. “[Luxury] fashion designers ought to produce
limited quantities to protect their cachet.”
The Richistani population is projected to grow by 2 to 3
percent in each of the next few years, reaching 10.5 million
in 2010, and as they increasingly move in the same global
circles with the rest of the world’s millionaires and bil— Robert Frank lionaires, Richistanis will add to a nascent “third culture,”
Frank forecast. It is one comprising people who are staying
at the same hotels (Four Seasons, Ritz Carltons), driving the same cars (Rolls-Royces,
Bentleys), wearing the same apparel and accessories (Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Franck
Muller) and visiting the same vacation spots (St. Bart’s, Monaco, Maldives).
This third culture is expected to remain a global scene in the foreseeable future,
as its basis, Frank said, “is a worldwide similarity in consumption habits.”
The U.S. is now producing the most millionaires in the world,
surpassing Europe for the first time.
ficer Leslie Wexner, $3.2 billion; Jim Davis, founder of New Balance, with $2 billion;
Robert Fisher, chairman of Gap Inc., $1.4 billion, and Paul Fireman, former Reebok
ceo, $1 billion. Alain Wertheimer, chairman at Chanel, who lives in the U.S., shares
with his brother Gerard a fortune Forbes place at $10 billion.
Though their exact numbers are unknown, the population of Upper Richistan,
Word-of-Mom Is Spreading Among Affluent Generation Xers
ord of mouth, the oldest form of marketing, is by far the number-one source of information for a
new generation of mothers.
Nearly all Gen X moms with at least one child younger than 12 and annual household income topping
$75,000 rely on their peers for information about everything from child-rearing to favorite cars, vacations
and brands of merchandise, according to a first-quarter survey taken for Cookie magazine.
While mothers have long exchanged such information, the finding that 92 percent of this group —
dubbed New Gen Moms by the magazine — is noteworthy because they are still devoting considerable
time to their own pursuits, said Carolyn Kremins, vice president and publisher of Cookie. (The magazine,
like WWD, is published by Condé Nast.) The participants in the national poll numbered 1,037, including
503 nonreaders of the family lifestyle title, from among an estimated 18 million New Gen Moms.
“These are later-in-life moms, later in child bearing, and they are not giving up their passions,”
Kremins noted. Nonetheless, once such mothers create a network, whether in the playground or online,
they are unlikely to give it up, she said, “no matter how busy they are.”
SNAPSHOT: New Generation Mothers, Ages 25-45
97% are including young children in their decision-making
75% cite past experience with a brand as an important
purchasing consideration.
63% are shopping online since becoming parents.
56% are working.
25% more brand recommendations are being made by women
after becoming New Gen mothers.
WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007 11
Continued from page one
on the U.S. economy are playing a significant role in the 2008 presidential race
and the ongoing political battle between
the Democratic-controlled Congress and
the Bush administration. The Senate
charges President Bush’s diplomatic attempts to get China to reform its currency
and trade policies have failed.
The legislative action comes at a time
of a record trade deficit with China,
which stood at $232.5 billion in 2006,
that has weakened the U.S. dollar and
sent a ripple effect throughout the fashion industry, particularly hitting hard
American designers importing European
fabrics and textiles.
Still, designer brands and apparel
importers are generally leery of the government intervening in China’s currency
“I think it’s always ill-conceived,” said
Bud Konheim, president and chief executive officer of Nicole Miller. “The government has an uncanny way of screwing
things up, while business people have
a way of working things out. It’s much
better to let the market forces deal with
[the trade deficit and weakened dollar]. Supposedly, the yuan is artificially
priced, but so far it is working, so leave
it alone.”
U.S. textile producers, however, claim
they cannot compete with Chinese imports they charge are undervalued by up
to 40 percent. They say government relief is needed to curb the flow of Chinese
It is against this backdrop that the
Senate Finance Committee will take
the first legislative action of the year on
Thursday against China and other countries that undervalue their currencies
and ultimately hurt U.S. manufacturers.
While the key Senate panel is expected
to pass the bill, its fate in Congress is uncertain because of jurisdictional disputes
and several competing bills.
The Senate is one of the toughest hurdles for any China-related bills because
its rules require more than a majority to pass any major piece of legislation.
Senate leaders need 60 votes to cut off
debate and end filibusters to pass bills,
while the House needs a simple majority.
The White House will not take a position on a bill until Congress acts, but
a punitive bill could draw a veto threat
from President Bush. Treasury Secretary
Henry Paulson Jr. has called on China to
take more decisive steps to change its
currency policies but he has declined to
label the country a currency manipulator and opted to pursue a “strategic diplomatic dialogue” with Chinese officials
to prod reform.
China, in turn, has revalued its currency by about 8 percent in the past two
years. Paulson and other experts argue
that there are many underlying factors to
the U.S. trade deficit.
“A Chinese appreciation, even a large
one, is not going to be the silver bullet,” in
addressing the U.S. current account deficit, said Nicholas Lardy, a senior fellow
at the Peterson Institute for International
Economics. “If you want to make a dent
in this, you have to get both China and
Japan to move [on currency appreciation]
and you’ve got to take fiscal action [in the
U.S.] to reduce the savings investment imbalance, but Congress would rather point
the finger abroad than look at [multiple]
solutions to the problem.”
The legislation before the Senate
panel was unveiled in June by Sens.
Max Baucus (D., Mont.), Chuck Grassley
(R., Iowa), Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) and
Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) after Paulson
stopped short of accusing China of currency manipulation.
Although the senators’ bill does not
target China specifically, it is intended
to force revaluation of the yuan and impose new consequences for inaction. The
measure would direct the Treasury to redefine currency manipulation, establish
new rules requiring the agency to identify “fundamentally misaligned” currencies to Congress biannually and could
potentially result in U.S. and WTO penalties if bilateral negotiations fail.
Apparel importers are concerned
about the potential for new antidumping cases against products they bring in
from China based solely on claims of undervalued currencies even if dumping is
not found.
“When you consider that 80 percent of
all products exported from China to the
Senators Intensify Campaign on Undervalued Currencies
Chinese Vice Premier Wu Yi met with President Bush and Treasury Secretary Henry Paulson Jr. in
May and discussed economic relations.
U.S. are consumer products, it really exposes retailers to a tremendous amount
of risk,” said Erik Autor, vice president
and international trade counsel at the
National Retail Federation.
Julia Hughes, senior vice president of international trade at the U.S.
Association of Importers of Textiles and
Apparel, said companies are worried that
senators will try to “toughen” the bill in
committee or on the floor of the House
and Senate to broaden trade remedies
that domestic manufacturers could use
against countries that undervalue their
Sens. Jim Bunning (R., Ky.) and Debbie
Stabenow (D., Mich.) have a bill that
would give U.S. firms injured by undervalued currencies the ability to file petitions for countervailing duties for subsidized imports.
Many in the U.S. textile industry are
hanging their hopes on Congress expanding trade remedy laws to fight against
undervalued currencies and subsidized
imports they say have led to the loss of
hundreds of thousands of U.S. jobs.
“The trade remedy aspects in
these bills need to be strengthened,”
said a spokesman for the American
Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition,
adding textile producers want to see the
bill expanded to include the ability to file
countervailing duty cases against subsidized imports from China.
“Just fi ling a [countervailing duty]
case would create enormous amounts
of uncertainty for importers and the
retail community, and my guess is it
would put enormous pressure on China
to come to the U.S. and say let’s do
some type of incremental solution to
this currency problem,” the AMTAC
spokesman said.
Gov. Spitzer Vetoes Bill Extending U.S. Against Doha Cotton Subsidy Proposal
Preferences for N.Y. Apparel Firms
By John Zarocostas
By Jessica Best
ALBANY, N.Y. — Gov. Eliot Spitzer has vetoed legislation that would make
permanent the portions of the New York State Apparel Workers Fair Labor
Conditions and Procurement Act that created the special Sept. 11 Bidders
The registry gives preferred status for competitive bids on contracts
from state agencies and public authorities to apparel and textile manufacturers and contractors adversely affected by 9/11. There are currently 70
companies on the registry.
If one of these firms bids on a state or public authority contract and its
bid is no more than 15 percent greater than the lowest bid, it is awarded
the contract. Those provisions were intended to be temporary and to expire on Sept. 1, 2005, but have been extended until Sept. 1, 2008.
“The registry has served a very laudable and necessary purpose — providing assistance to those companies that were seriously harmed by the
events of Sept. 11,” Spitzer said. “The attacks on the World Trade Center
placed a large number of apparel companies at a significant disadvantage
and the registry sought to level the playing field with their competitors.
During the past six years, the registry has helped to achieve that goal.
“These temporary benefits should not be continued in perpetuity, however,
because the preference given to these companies makes it harder for other
apparel companies to compete and increases costs to the state’s taxpayers.
Moreover, the adverse impacts of the World Trade Center attacks have diminished over time, thereby reducing the need for continuing these preferences.”
Spitzer noted that more than a year remains before these provisions
expire. He said he is asking the Department of Labor and the Empire State
Development Corp. to review the impact of the registry on the apparel
industry and to report to him and the state legislature as to whether bidding preferences and other provisions in the 2002 law should be continued
beyond September 2008.
GENEVA — The U.S. gave a cold shoulder
Tuesday to a draft proposal in the Doha Round
global trade talks that calls for deeper cuts in
cotton subsidies compared with other agriculture products.
“I do not think it’s acceptable,” Joseph Glauber,
chief U.S. agriculture negotiator, told reporters.
Earlier, Glauber said during a closed-door
World Trade Organization session of chief
trade negotiators from 151 nations that the
draft paper failed to take into account reductions in other areas of the farm talks, such as
product-specific cuts. But he stressed the U.S.
was committed to take action on cotton.
A text circulated last week by New Zealand
ambassador Crawford Falconer, chairman
of the agriculture segment of the Doha talks,
urges much deeper cuts for cotton and reflects
the demand of poor West African cotton producers Benin, Mali, Burkina Faso and Chad,
labeled the “Cotton 4” countries. According
to estimates by agricultural trade experts,
the reductions would be as high as 82 percent
for cotton and could see U.S. cotton subsidies
slashed by more than $1.5 billion.
Chief negotiators from other major farm
exporting countries, speaking on the condition
of anonymity because of the political sensitivities of the issue, said they doubted Washington
would agree to the level of cuts suggested in
the Falconer text. Trade diplomats said it will
be an uphill battle for the U.S. to make the
case to offer something less than what is on
the table given the support for the position of
the four African nations from other developing
countries, antipoverty advocacy groups and international development agencies.
Benin’s chief WTO envoy, Samuel Amehou,
said, “This is our formula” and that the country
expects an ambitious and expeditious outcome.
The Brazilian-led G20 group of developing
countries, which includes India, South Africa
and China, said it “fully supports” the inclusion
of the Cotton-4 demands in the agriculture texts.
Brazil has successfully challenged some of the
U.S. farm subsidy programs before WTO dispute
panels as being in breach of global rules.
Trade diplomats said a group of developing
countries was likely to make a highly critical
appraisal on Wednesday of the draft text to
lower industrial tariffs proposed by Canadian
committee chairman Don Stephenson. That
plan calls for industrial tariffs, including apparel and textiles, to be around 8 or 9 percent
for rich economies and between 19 and 23 percent for developing nations.
Also on Tuesday, China blocked requests by
the U.S. and Mexico for a dispute panel to be
established to examine their complaint that it
provides subsidies to enterprises prohibited
under global rules. China said it believe the
measures are consistent with WTO rules and
said it prefers to resolve the dispute through
country-to-country consultations.
However, the establishment of a panel is automatic on a second request, which is likely to
come at the next meeting of the dispute settlement body, slated for Aug. 31.
12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007
Mothers Work Income Slides
By Erica Owen
NEW YORK — Mothers Work
Inc. posted mixed third-quarter
results due to an overall weak
retail environment and forgiving fashions in women’s apparel
that allow mothers-to-be to skip
maternity stores.
For its third quarter ended
June 30, Mothers Work posted
net income of $1 million, or 17
cents a diluted share, down from
$8.8 million, or $1.54 a diluted
share, in the same year-ago period. Excluding charges in connection with the repurchase of debt,
income in the current quarter
would have been $5.5 million, or
90 cents a diluted share. Sales
fell by 6.5 percent to $153.2 million from $163.9 million.
For the first nine months,
Mothers Work posted net income
of $5 million, or 81 cents a diluted share, compared with $9.7
million, or $1.77, in the year-ago
period. Excluding charges, income for the nine months would
have been $10.7 million, or $1.74
a diluted share. Sales declined
by 3.1 percent to $445.6 million,
down from $459.9 million.
President and chief creative
officer Rebecca Matthias said in
a statement that third-quarter
sales suffered from trends “such
as trapeze and baby-doll dresses
and tops, which can more readily fit a pregnant woman early in
her pregnancy than typical non-
Some offerings at Mothers Work last year.
maternity fashions.”
First Albany Capital analyst
Paula Kalandiak, who rates
Mothers Work shares at “buy,”
wrote in a research note the retailer has kept tight control on
“relatively clean” inventory, and
expects the company’s fundamentals to improve in 2008 due
to easier year-over-year comparisons and a shift in trends away
from voluminous tops toward
body-conscious looks that cannot double as maternity wear.
“We believe that trendsetting women’s apparel retailers
across the country have begun
to move away from these styles,
and that it will only be a matter of time before the more
By Khanh T.L. Tran
aul Guez stepped down as president and chief
executive officer of Blue Holdings Inc. to
make way for turnaround specialist Glenn Palmer
as the jeans and sportswear company seeks to cut
expenses and reevaluate brands such as Antik
Denim and Taverniti So Jeans amid a softening
denim market.
Palmer, 54, was previously ceo and president
of New York’s Rafaella Apparel Group, owned
by Cerberus Capital Management, where he
led a $172 million debt financing program. As
ceo of New York’s Amerex Group Inc., Palmer
reorganized the outerwear and apparel manufacturer and launched a $10 million licensed
urban business.
His appointment is the third change among
Commerce, Calif.-based Blue Holdings’ senior
executives in seven months. Larry Jacobs replaced Patrick Chow as chief financial officer in
December, and Scott Drake became chief operating officer, a new position, in March. Guez, 62, remains chairman.
“I’m not a ceo,” Guez said. “I’m more of a businessman, somebody to come up with new ideas
mainstream retailers catch on,”
Kalandiak wrote in a research
note. “While the company’s own
stores posted a decline in sales,
its other sources of revenue
showed increases.”
Mothers Work now sees fiscal
2007 diluted earnings per share,
including the debt repurchase
charges, of between 56 cents and
81 cents.
Philadelphia-based Mothers
Work operates under the
Motherhood Maternity, A Pea
in the Pod, Mimi Maternity and
Destination Maternity names
in roughly 1,600 locations, including retail stores and leased
departments in chains such as
Babies ‘R’ Us, Sears and Macy’s.
[and] to develop brands.”
Guez said he wants to develop foreign markets,
including Japan and Europe, and expand into new
categories such as shoes, bags, eyeglasses, outerwear and children’s clothing through licenses.
Palmer, who started at Blue Holdings on
Tuesday during the Project trade show in New
York, said his initial priorities include increasing
the company’s department store business, adding
products such as knitwear and woven tops and reducing expenses, which surged 63 percent to $17.1
million last year from 2005 as revenue increased
35 percent to $49 million. Blue Holdings posted a
net loss of $4 million last year, compared with net
income of $7.5 million in 2005.
“One of the things we want to maximize is a
strategy in our distribution,” said Palmer, who will
be based in New York and Southern California.
Jacobs said Blue Holdings anticipates revenue of $40 million to $42 million this year. With
Palmer’s arrival, Jacobs said Blue Holdings will
reevaluate its brands. “I just think, in all our
brands, a new eye and [Palmer’s] retail background will enable us to get a renewed focus,”
Jacobs said, rejecting speculation that Blue
Holdings will shed brands from its portfolio.
Hilfiger Buys European Footwear Licensee
By Lisa Lockwood
Pendleton Mills Executive
Clarence M. Bishop Jr., 82
Guez Resigns as CEO at Blue
he Tommy Hilfiger Group has acquired Tommy Hilfiger Footwear Europe GmbH, its European
licensee based in Osnabrück, Germany.
Hilfiger footwear was launched in the European market in 2002, when the company signed a
licensing agreement with Hamm Shoe & Accessories Co. GmbH. In five years, the business, which
includes women’s, men’s and children’s footwear, has grown into an $81 million operation.
Financial details of the transaction, which is expected to close by Aug. 15, weren’t disclosed.
“This acquisition is in line with our strategy to consolidate brand management and approach
the market in the most coordinated manner possible,” said Fred Gehring, chief executive officer of
Tommy Hilfiger Group, in a statement.
Hans-Peter Hamm, president of the Hamm Shoe & Accessories Group, will step down as managing
director of Tommy Hilfiger Footwear, and is retiring from the business.
The organization in Osnabrück will remain an independent entity, but will be managed as a division of Tommy Hilfiger Europe BV. Dirk Pues, a member of Hilfiger footwear’s management team
since the inception, and recently named one of its managing directors, will remain in his post and
report to Daniel Grieder, chief operating officer and president of Tommy Hilfiger Europe BV.
larence M. “Mort” Bishop Jr., vice chairman of Pendleton Woolen Mills,
died July 11 at St. Vincent’s Hospital in Portland, Ore. He was 82.
The cause of death was congestive heart failure, according to a
company spokeswoman.
Bishop was the fourth generation of his family to lead the
Portland, Ore.-based company, which was founded in 1909. In recent
years, he and his brother Broughton shared the role of vice chairman. The company has always tried to keep an even keel with the
family’s integrity, ethics and The Golden Rule, said the spokeswoman, adding that Mort Bishop Jr. often referred to The Golden Rule
as a compass for the way Pendleton conducts business. Pendleton
has deep roots in the Northwest’s woolen industry. In 1863, Bishop’s
great-grandfather relocated to Oregon, started a small textile mill in
Brownsville and was instrumental in the industry’s development.
Mort Bishop Jr.’s son Clarence M. 3rd remains president of
Pendleton Woolen Mills, a post he has held for the past eight years.
In 1969, Mort Bishop Jr. took over the president’s role from his own
father and namesake.
Born in Portland, Bishop attended Phillips Academy before joining the U.S. Marine Corps. While serving with the 5th and 14th battalions, he was said to have seen “some of the worst fighting in the South
Pacific” and was involved with the liberation of Guam in July 1944, a
Pendleton spokeswoman said. He was among the scores of military
personnel that returned to Guam to mark the 50th anniversary.
Following his honorable discharge, Bishop attended Yale
University, where he graduated with a B.S. in 1949. Two years prior,
he wed Mabel Alleyne Livingston, with whom he had four children. He and his late wife fished in such far-flung locales as the
Seychelles, Chile, Venezuela and remote Alaskan villages. They also
had a cow-calf ranching operation in southeastern Washington and
a cattle and sheep farm in Newberg, Ore.
At Pendleton, Bishop learned the ropes by working at the company’s various locations. When he joined the company in 1949, he
worked at Pendleton’s original mill in Pendleton, Ore., before moving on to its fabric mill in Washougal, Wash. Eventually, he made his
way to the company’s corporate headquarters in Portland. Until his
death, Bishop played a hands-on role at the company, reviewing all
financial and business documents and providing input, the spokeswoman said. Pendleton now employs 1,000 people.
“It’s in the DNA of this family, a part of their heritage. Over the
years there have been many changes and adjustments but always
governed by the mantra of ‘Warranted to be standard.’ That goes
back to C.M. Bishop Jr.’s father,” she said.
He was involved in such industry groups as the American
Apparel Manufacturers Association, the Men’s Fashion Association
and the National Association of Manufacturers.
In addition to his brother and son, Bishop is survived by three
daughters, Susan, Melinda MacColl and Rebecca Martin.
— Rosemary Feitelberg
Dorinda Dixon Ryan
NEW YORK — Dorinda Dixon “D.D.”
Ryan, an arts and fashion insider, died
Tuesday at Calvary Hospital Hospice
in the Bronx after a brief bout with
cancer. She was 79.
A native of Bristol, R.I., Ryan was
determined while still a teenager to
make Manhattan her home. During
her late teens, she landed a job as
Richard Avedon’s assistant. Working
on assignment with him, Ryan met
Diana Vreeland, who wooed her to
work for Harper’s Bazaar. There she
“rapidly” became the magazine’s
photo editor, said her son Drew Ryan.
Ryan went on to design costumes for Broadway shows such as
“Company” and “House of Flowers” “D.D.’’ Ryan with Halston and
as well as films, including “A New Stephen Burrows.
Along the way, she befriended Halston early in his career, when
he was selling hats for Bergdorf Goodman, her son said. Ryan also
worked exclusively for the designer for 15 years until his death
in 1990.
More than anything, Ryan valued mentoring young people
and kept up that practice throughout her life, her son said. She
could catch the ear of scores of well-known artists, dancers, musicians and notables, including Pablo Picasso, Stephen Sondheim,
Harold Arlen and Cole Porter. Ryan was so striking that in the early
Sixties, she and her husband, John, were asked to sit for a series of
photographs by Cecil Beaton. And the artist Erte once painted her
portrait. Ryan was also said to have teamed the creator of “Eloise,”
Kay Thompson, with the book’s illustrator, Hilary Knight. The
voice of the children’s book character was something Thompson
and Ryan playfully invented and occasionally used in telephone
In addition to her son Drew, Ryan is survived by another son,
Beau. Private services will be Friday and a memorial is being
planned for the fall.
— R.F.
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14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 25, 2007
WWD West
New Label and Stores on Tap for Aioli
The facade of Plastic Island’s
first U.S. store in Torrance, Calif.
TORRANCE, Calif. — Aioli Co., a $100 million South Korea apparel maker, is revving
up its U.S. profile in a prelude to an initial public offering.
Less than two years after opening an office in Los Angeles and launching Stateside
contemporary brands, Plastic Island and McGinn, the Seoul-based company this
month debuted its first Plastic Island store in the U.S. at the Del Amo Fashion Center
here, and plans to open more on the West Coast and in New York.
Aioli plans to kick off a third contemporary brand, Egoist, in the U.S. next spring.
Set to debut at the Intermezzo Collections trade show in New York on Aug. 5, Egoist
bundles Lurex thread, accessories complementing looks and thigh-high hems in
party-ready outfits wholesaling from $50 to $300.
These steps are intended to build momentum for 10-year-old Aioli as it prepares
for an IPO in Korea in 2009. Egoist generates half of Aioli’s sales, Plastic Island accounts for 30 percent and McGinn for the remainder.
“Our company has a chance [in the U.S.],” executive director J.C. Song said.
Aioli comes full circle with the U.S. launch of Egoist. The company introduced
Egoist in South Korea in 1999 after obtaining rights to produce the line under license outside of Japan from Tokyo’s Egoist Co. Ltd. Five years later, Aioli bowed
McGinn in Korea, and followed with Plastic Island in 2006.
For the U.S. market, however, Aioli decided to wholesale Plastic Island first
for spring 2006 and make it the center of a retail push because as the lowestpriced of the company’s three brands, it’s the most accessible in terms of
price points and design, said Kyutae Kim, marketing manager for Aioli’s
U.S. wholesale business.
Aioli adopted a cautious but steady approach to expand Plastic
Kim said Aioli wants to place Egoist in the same specialty shops that sell
Island’s retail base in the U.S. It aims to open three to five units for Plastic
Plastic Island. Dismissing concern about a conflict because the two labels
Island on the West Coast in the next two to three years, followed by at
promote different aesthetics, she said Aioli set a first-season wholesale
least one location in lower Manhattan. Aioli operates 45 stores for Plastic
sales target of $600,000 for Egoist, to match what Plastic Island achieved in
Island in Korea and another five in Taiwan.
its U.S. debut.
In Torrance, located 20 miles south of Los Angeles, Plastic Island’s
Wholesaling for $30 to $250, Plastic Island is sold at specialty shops such
whimsically designed boutique is in a new outdoor section of Del Amo
as Planet Blue in Santa Monica, Calif., Hillary Rush in Los Angeles and
Fashion Center, which is owned by Chevy Chase, Md.-based Mills
Neiman Marcus’ contemporary unit, Cusp. McGinn, on the other hand,
Corp. Trend-driven retailers such as Forever 21, Anthropologie, Lucky
arrived in the U.S. last summer with wholesale prices from $60 to $500.
Brand Jeans and Urban Outfitters surround Plastic Island’s estimated
Incorporating rich fabrics such as silk and mink, McGinn is carried by spe5,000-square-foot store in what Mills calls the “lifestyle wing.”
cialty retailers including Los Angeles’ Inago, in addition to Nordstrom’s Via
Kim said Aioli chose Torrance because “we have so much distribuC department, which ordered it for this fall, Kim said.
tion in larger cities, and we didn’t want [the store] to come into contact
Translating South Korean style for American women isn’t easy, said
with that.”
Barbara Fields, who travels regularly to Seoul, London, Tokyo and other
The boutique’s ultrafeminine decor evokes both Marie Antoinette’s
world capitals as the head of her namesake Los Angeles company, which foreboudoir and a modern art gallery. Just inside the all-glass facade,
casts fashion trends for retailers. She pointed out that women’s bodies in the
mannequin vignettes incorporate chartreuse-colored ceramic stattwo countries are vastly different. In general, Korean women are thin with
ues of lions. Mauve-hued ceramic stag heads are mounted on the
narrow hips and small chests. They wrap themselves in multiple layers, donbright white walls, and two towering sculptures of a “fantasy
ning styles such as bubble knit tops and elongated hoodies that might not
animal” — part giraffe, part horse — inhabit opposite ends of
flatter curvy Americans, she said. And they aren’t shy about accessorizing
the boutique. Huge plastic scrims printed with graphics detheir outfits with pom-poms and other attention-grabbing doodads.
picting silhouetted nature scenes with rabbits and flowers
“The Korean style gets very cutesy and very sweet,” Fields said. For
hang from the ceiling.
the U.S. market, Korean companies “have to keep it more cleaned up,”
“We tried to create a surreal shopping environment,” said
she said.
Kim, adding that the boutique is more elaborate than the Korean
To accommodate U.S. customers, Aioli made some tweaks. At Plastic
stores, with more moldings and custom-made furniture, including curvy, builtIsland, it designed woven tops sold here to be a little larger than what is ofin shelves and display tables resembling black-lacquered dressing tables.
fered in Korea. It also hopes to enable American consumers to develop a
Plastic Island-branded handbags and jewelry, which are available only in
knack for sprucing up outfits by including mock patent leather belts and
the Torrance store, occupy their own spacious corner, next to private label
other accessories with about one-third of Egoist’s wares. For instance,
footwear, which Aioli began wholesaling for this fall. Handbags retail from
a long chain necklace adorned with plastic navy beads is threaded
$70 to $150 and shoes cost from $150 to $200.
through loops bordering the neckline of a knit dress with silk blouThe boutique also stocks a more sophisticated line called Demi Couture by
son sleeves. Plus, all the sheer dresses and tops are sold with
Plastic Island, which costs between 20 percent and 30 percent more than the
slips and tanks to assist dressing and give a perception of
signature group. “We launched Demi Couture because we wanted something a
more value. Made primarily in South Korea and China, the
little special for the customer who’s looking for things to go out in,” Kim said.
A highgarments can be shipped to the U.S. two months after an
For the customer who wants more flash, Egoist fits the bill. Among the 80
waisted dress
order is placed, Kim said.
styles that Aioli will unveil for next spring are white denim HotPants featurfrom Egoist.
“We’ve had a pretty good ride so far,” Kim said. “We’re
ing a double waistband and gold buttons, and white Edwardian cotton shirtgrowing here really fast.”
dresses with lace detailing on the sleeves and neck.
Lily’s Golf Line Swings to Fresh Look, Logo
ily’s of Beverly Hills, a 35-year-old golf clothing line,
is launching a new look and logo for spring 2008.
Manufactured by Torrance, Calif.-based LBH Group
Ltd., the once-conservative line has been updated with
colorful prints and streetwear-inspired silhouettes.
LBH hired vice president-creative director James
Sowins in February to evolve offerings in the khakiclad, conservative golf market. Sowins was most recently head designer at Kitson and before that worked
at Guess and Puma.
“Women’s golf apparel has always been an afterthought to men’s, so my goal was to service the market
with fashionable clothes that fit women’s lifestyle and
taste level,” he said.
Sowins combines technical and luxurious-feeling
fabrics into styles borrowed from contemporary sportswear. Tailored bottoms such as flat-front capris and
pleated skirts have stretch, and tops such as pinstripe
vests and cap-sleeve polos are made with stain-resistant, antimicrobial, UV-shielding fabrics.
The new collection, priced at $65 to $100 retail and
about $20 above the previous price point, is intended
to appeal to a slightly younger customer looking for
clothes with crossover appeal.
“Women are looking for something they can wear
other places, and age doesn’t necessarily define lifestyle,’’ said Judy Petraitis, president of LHB Group.
She estimated that spring 2008 sales will be 25
percent to 35 percent above the previous season, and
should increase by 50 percent for fall 2008. She didn’t
provide specific estimates.
Existing retail channels include resorts, private
clubs and specialty golf stores. “I could see us being in
a Nordstrom or a Bloomingdale’s but it’s not our main
direction,” Petraitis said, adding that Lily’s plans accessories that will cross over to specialty shops.
Sowins plans to update LBH Group’s two tennis
lines, LBH and Wimbledon, for 2008. The company has
held the U.S., Canada and Caribbean licenses for the
Wimbledon brand for 10 years.
“Our angle will be to have more feminine and contemporary prints that fit so well it’s like you aren’t
wearing anything at all,” he said.
— Marcy Medina
Lily’s of
Hills Capri
By Khanh T.L. Tran and Emili Vesilind
For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.
Major Sleepwear/Lingerie Co. in Fremont CA
is looking for an experienced VP of Sales. Strong sleepwear
background, proven track record with Major Retailers / Dept.
Stores. Has established relationships for immediate business
growth. Great compensation / benefits & career opportunity.
510-651-2621 or [email protected]
Roxy is looking for a Sr. Accessories Designer. This position
is located at the corporate headquarters, in Huntington
Beach, CA. Must have 5 plus years experience in Accessories
in the Junior or Better market. Must have Illustrator/CAD
experience, graphic background is a plus. Only experienced
candidates please.
Email resume to:
[email protected] for consideration.
P o l e c i®
Los Angeles, CA
Production Patternmaker
Seeking highly skilled patternmaker, 1st thru Production.
Must be able to work well with others in a fast pace environment.
Previous experience with high quality garments a must. TUKA
experience is required.
Sample Sewer
Must be experienced, fast, and pay good attention to detail.
Experience in knits + soft wovens (silk), excellent sewing quality,
and good communication skills are required. Spanish/English
speaking preferred.
Qualified Candidates Only
For consideration, please fax your resume to:
323.583.3009 or email: [email protected]
Los Angeles
The perfect candidate must have
7 years top brand experience
designing with quality yarns and
overseas factories. Excellent
sketching, presentation and
managerial skills are a must.
This position is based in our
beautiful Century City location.
Email resumes & jpegs to:
[email protected]
Reach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing in
WWD Marketplace.
For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.
Experienced person with proven record of achievement in
managing Global Customer Service team for garment related
industry. Successful candidate will be proficient in Word,
Excel, Power Point. Exp. in JDEdwards a plus. Applicant will
have demonstrated proficiency constructing Excel reports,
writing commentary and superior communications skills in
working with vendors, customers, and co-workers.
Mail resume to:
Box#M 1018
c/o Fairchild Classified
750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl
New York, NY 10017
LA based Accessory Company seeks a SALES MANAGER. Must have at
least 5 years experience, established contacts and a proven track-record
working with MASS RETAILERS such as Walmart, Target, Gap etc. Competitive salary and commission offered.
Incredible 4500 sq ft showroom, with loft space to share
for sublease in womens contemp. prime real estate,
11th fl. approx. sq ft avail. 1000-3000, several private
enclosed glass offices. Must be in contemp. market to
qualify as a candidate.
Submit all inquiries by 7/30/07 .
Call 213-924-5429 or email [email protected]
Candidates must have 3-5 years experience in Women’s Better Contemporary Market. Must have contacts and be able to work directly with buyers,
demonstrating a proven track record of established relationships with Department and Specialty Stores. Trade show experience is a must. Excellent
opportunity and benefits.
Please send resume to: [email protected]
For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.
Cut & Sew, Knits/woven. USA & overseas
China. Call Brenda @ (718) 358-8278 or
Email: [email protected]
We Buy Men’s,
Women’s & Children’s
All Quantities
We are nice people to deal with
Also HBA and General Merchandise.
Call Rocky 800-762-5488
We buy better goods. All categories,
including fabrics. Immediate $$.
Please call 212-279-1902
Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening
Gowns custom made & wholesale.
Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950
Full Service, Fine Fast Work.
Any Styles.
Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999
All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.
Call Sherry 212-719-0622.
Full service shop to the trade.
Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.
Fast - Accurate - Reliable
Call: 212-217-9750
Freelance & Perm Jobs Available
Fabric R & D - All Levels (Perm)
Freelance Patternmakers
Associate CAD-cold weather accessories (perm)
Designer - Girls/Juniors (Perm)
Freelance CAD Designers
Asst Designer - Bilingual Japanese
Assist Tech Design - high end (perm)
Technical Designers
Send resumes ASAP to:
Email: [email protected]
Accessory Company
Sales, Design, Production
positions open. See ad details at:
Bob Forman
212-944-6094 x 314
Search For Space In Garment Center
Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee
Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100
1407 Broadway
Showroom Space; Bright corner unit
2,000 sq. ft.; Share or Sublease.
Please email resumes to:
[email protected]
for freelance opportunities:
[email protected]
1-2 Yrs Entry Level. NJ
to $45K
A/R. Solid Exp, Bklyn
Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or
e-mail: [email protected]
8th Ave
24/7 Attendant
Beautifully Renovated, light, window
offices. 1227 - 3400 sq ft
Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500
Accounts Payable Mgr $60-70K Current
exp in both A/P + costing. Apparel or
accessory co. ok. Bergen County. Aggressively growing co. [email protected]
Phones. Data Entry. E-Mails. Assist Team
[email protected] 212-947-3400
e-mail [email protected]
Midtown Apparel Co. seeks A/R Clerk
with 2 yrs min exp in Cash application,
data entry and various clerical duties.
Fax resumes with salary history to:
(212) 391-7199, Attn: Rosanne
Well established fast paced dress company
seeks creative, organized person with min 2
yrs experience. Computer literate; great
growth potential.
Contact: [email protected]
Assistant Patternmaker
Social dress mftr seeks an assistant
patternmaker. Responsibilities include:
garment specing, attending fittings &
communicating with overseas factories.
Fax Resume: 212-398-0654
We are a Garment Manufacturer seeking to
share shipping costs. We have a state of the
art facility located in Secaucus, New Jersey.
Clean, organized, computerized and seeking
other garment companies to share shipping
costs with us. We ship and receive domestic
and foreign product.
To discuss this opportunity, please send
an email to: [email protected]
Part time personal assistant needed
for President of apparel manufacturing company. Duties include: research,
travel arrangements, meeting follow
up, quick steno & typing, computer &
e-mail savvy. Needs to be able to work 3 yrs exp AP, AR, payroll. Excellent comindependently. Previous exp a must.
munication, organizational & computer
Fax resume to: 212-643-0593
skills. Fax resume & salary: 212-768-2358 .
Famous Handbag Brand
Buyer Wanted for Expansion
Top Accounts Worldwide. Celebrity Press.
$3,295,000. [email protected] Serious Only
Seeking a qualified Full-Time Associate for our Madison Avenue location.
Must be a polished professional with:
• Strong communication skills
• Fine jewelry background & developed clientele book
• 3 years of Fine Jewelry experience
We offer excellent company benefits.
Please email resume to: [email protected]
Major NYC Apparel Co. seeks full-time
Controller w/5-10 years Imports (includes
L/C & costing) & distribution experience .
Proficiency with MAS200, Excel, Word,
financial statement & budget preparation,
collateral reporting & cash management
experience a must. This position will
also supervise A/P, H/R AND A/R dept.
Please Fax resume to: (212) 202-5317
Contemporary garment manu.requires
a billing & EDI person. One yr exp. req
FAX: 212-382-3623
Designer Collection seeks an experienced
designer to create collections, source
trims and fabric and assist in design
research. Individual must be able to flat
sketch, illustrate and have excellent
communication skills.
Please fax resume to (Attn Albert):
Seeking motivated individual for entry Designer
level data processing position using
AS400. We will provide training.
Minimum of 2 yrs exp. Must be highly
FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705
organized. Duties include sketching,
fabric & trim research & development
Illustrator & Photoshop a must.
Email: [email protected]
Assistant Designer
Major apparel company seeks assistant
designer for junior girls line "Pastry"
from the hit MTV show "Run’s House.
Responsibilities include researching
trend and color direction, shop retail
stores and study competition, assist
designer as directed and develop techpacks. Send resumes to: 212-730-9705
Missy update private label co. seeking
asst. merchandiser. Duties include daily
overseas follow up, tracking photo
samples, labdips, updating charts. Must
be motivated, have good communication
skills, be detail oriented and organized. DESIGN
Entry-level position.
Please fax resume to 212 868 2801.
Personal Assistant
Seeking a dynamic sales leader. Must be a polished professional with:
• Strong management & communication skills
• E xcellent organizational abilities
• Motivation, enthusiasm and creativity to build a great growth opportunity
• Retail experience a must!
Account Executives (luxury) $60 -200K
Planners/Buyers (all levels) $50 -100K
V.P. Retail
Kidswear (many positions) $40 -150K
Designers (every area)
$40 -200K
$60 -200K
these... and so much more!!!
We are an exciting, established, diverse and growing jewelry
company looking to expand our team for the following positions:
Associate Designer
Associate Designer wanted to join Design
team. 3-5 years creative design experience required. Must be self-motivated,
detail oriented and have hands on experience working in a design room.
Seeking a highly creative talented
team player with excellent design and
sketching skills.
Please send resumes to:
[email protected]
Outerwear / Swimwear Children’s
Designer for newborn-6X/7 nationally
recognized label. Must be strong in
smaller sizes, and have the ability to
follow through from concept to packages. Excellent health plan and benefits. Please email your resume to:
[email protected]
Designer sportswear company seeks a
designer with 7 yrs min. exp. in bridge
knits to develop designs from concept
to finish. Must be a fast learner, detailoriented & organized. Strong illustrative skills by hand w/ strong sense of
color, trim and patterns. Great comp
and benefits. E: [email protected]
Technical Designer
Special Events Manager
2(x)ist, the leading Men’s Fashion
Underwear brand seeking superb
Technical Designer. Candidate must
have experience creating tech pack,
specs, and illustrations. Excellent
knowledge of patternmaking and
garment construction. Independent
worker skilled at multi-tasking. Communication w/over-seas factories and
identifying & resolving issues with
production. Close working relationships w/Design, Product Development, Production, and Private Label
teams. Private Label experience also
a plus! Degree in Fashion with 3
years working experience. Please
E-mail resume with cover letter to:
We are seeking a contemporary,
cutting edge designer for the
Jordache premium line. The perfect
candidate must have min. 5 years
design experience working with
denim & knits, have a working
knowledge of denim washes, fit
and construction, be proficient
in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must
be able to work under pressure.
Please send resumes to
[email protected]
Please indicate code
NG/0707 in the subject.
[email protected]
We are currently looking for a candidate to join our public
relations and marketing team. This position will be primarily
responsible for coordination of special events for Ferragamo
in the United States. This person will be responsible for
partnering with Ferragamo Store Managers to organize all
details for events in the stores in accordance with estimated
timelines and budgets and working with internal departments and external vendors to coordinate all event details
including conceptualization, invitations, catering, music and
decor. This person will also prepare and communicate event
summaries and work with the PR Director to develop eventrelated press strategy.
The ideal candidate will have at least 3 years of
related experience (magazine publishing, public relations,
marketing, or communications with a luxury company preferred) with excellent communication and organizational skills,
and is highly proficient in Microsoft Office.
Please fax resume and salary requirements to:
Carolyn Ocean, 212-758-4691 or email
[email protected]
Cashmere and Apparel Company
seeks dedicated team player. Salary
commensurate with ability.
[email protected]
DesignerFast paced, high energy, growing
Women’s Apparel Company seeks:
Min of 2 yrs exp in sketching flats on
Illustrator, creating boards & tech
packs, pitch prints, sourcing fabrics &
trims. Cut & sew knits exp a plus.
Must have strong Photoshop & Illustrator skills, good sense of color, organized, be a self-starter, exp working
in a fast paced environment and able
to multi-task.
Great opportunity for growth and
excellent benefit package.
Email resume:
[email protected]
or fax resume: 212 827 3344 Attn: RB
Wovens & Sweaters
Draper/1st Patternmaker
Couture Fashion House located in N.Y.C.
seeks a skilled Draper/1st Patternmaker
with a minimum 10 years experience.
Min 5 yrs experience in tops, bottoms
Candidate must have extensive cut &
& sweaters to join our design team.
Seeking 2 candidates, one for Missy Seeking an experienced, motivated, sew Women’s Wear/Couture Eveningwear
and one for Juniors. Candidates must organized person who is able to work background & strong draping skills.
independently to be a part of our team. Must be able to handle fast paced work
A contemporary sweater designer with
Responsibilities include handling spe- environment and manage multiple
exp in all aspects of line development. will contribute to the creative process. cific licensed labels and private label projects/deadlines on a timely basis.
Must have a strong knowledge of Proficient in Photoshop, Illustrator, product. Must be able to wear many We are a leader in our industry and offer
yarns/sweater construction. Candidate Excel & Word. Strong communication hats at one time & eager for challenges. comprehensive benefits & salary. Please
must be an organized, self-starter, with
Sweater experience a MUST. Able to E-mail your resume/salary history and
exp working in a fast paced environ- daily). Develop embroidery designs; design from initial concept, color, yarn subject header: "Draper/1st Patternmaker "
ment and able to multi-task. Illustrator create tech packs/knowledge of gar- through all aspects up to sales sample. & your name to: [email protected]
ment construction.
/Photoshop skills a must.
Must be detail oriented & able to multiPlease
Great opportunity for growth and
task. Knowledge of cut and sew knits,
[email protected]
excellent benefit package.
Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop a plus .
Fax resume to: 212 827 3344 Attn: HR
E-mail resume to:
[email protected]
Fast paced, high energy, growing
Women’s Apparel Co. seeks:
Sweater Designer
Girl’s Jeans
CAD Designer
Established Girl’s/Junior P/L jeanswear
company is seeking to add a senior level
CAD designer to it’s growing team.
Candidate must be highly creative,
organized & a team player. Experience
in embellishments is a major plus.
Send resume w/ salary requirements to:
Email: [email protected]
All Req Illustrator &PDM Skills
E-Mail [email protected]
Highly skilled, exp’d. Seamstress/Tailor
neededfor Couture Bridal/Eveningwear.
Convenient L.I. location. 516-801-6767
Draper / 1st
Contemporary design driven firm
located in New York City is seeking a
highly skilled Draper/1st Patternmaker with a min. of 10 years of exp.
This candidate must have extensive cut
& sew knitwear exp. & strong draping
skills. Must be able to handle a fast
paced work environment & manage
multiple projects/deadlines in a timely
Major apparel company seeks graphic basis. Contemporary exp. is required.
designer for junior girls line "Pastry" We are a leader in our industry & offer
from the hit MTV show "Run’s House. comprehensive benefits & salary.
Responsibilities include researching Please email your resume with salary
graphic trend technique and direction, history & subject header; Draper/ 1st
designing theme graphics as directed by Patternmaker and your name to:
designer, designing trims, developing
[email protected]
artwork and tech packs.
DESIGNER - Jewelry
Seeking a creative & capable Designer
for better Dept./Specialty Stores. Ability
to draw designs using a computer a plus.
Please Fax resumes to: 713-850-8680
FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705
Equal Opportunity Employer
Fabric Research and
Development Manager
Established womens sportsear company
is seeking a fabric research and development manager to oversee and supervise
fabric department. Will be ultimately
responsible for all phases of fabric/trim
development, approval of lab dip and
bulk fabric and new trends research.
Must have strong communication skills,
ability to follow through with overseas
factories and thorough understanding
of fabric construction and finishing.
Minimum of 5 years experience in woven
fabric a must. Please email resume to:
[email protected]
Fabulous Freelance
Many opportunities available in Women’s
Design, Technical Wovens, Fabric,
Web PDM,and Planning……………
Major Apparel company seeks graphic
artist with experience in girls infant
to 6X. Individual must be creative
and detail oriented. Responsibilities
include executing the art from start
to finish packages for production. Will
work with mock up samples and the
embroidery department.
FAX RESUMES TO : 212-730-9705
*Artist Girls- Boys-Jrs. - Mens- $HI
*Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr.
*Designer Boy/Girl 0-20 Sports Licensing
*Production Mgr/Coords - Biling Chinese
*Production Assistant Lab Dip Approval
*Production Assistants or Coordinators
*Product Mgr - Apparel Importer Exp
*Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI
*Technical Designers & Assistants $HI
Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127
Executive Director
Provide leadership & financial mgmt
to small non-profit with multi-funding
source based budget. Exp running a
customer service organization. Salary
based on exp. Please apply to:
ED Search Committee c/o
Garment Industry Development Corp.
275 Seventh Avenue, 15th Floor
NYC 10001 212-366-6162
[email protected]
Exec apparel search firm seeks staff
recruiter. Apparel bkgrd a must. All fields.
[email protected] 212-947-3400
Email: [email protected]
Fresh, young intimate apparel company
has entry-level opening for Junior Colorist to assist in tracking and coordinating
color and product development processes
including lab-dips, fabric and trim quality evaluation and sample garment review
for national brands.
Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381
Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386
Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384
[email protected]
Candidate must be detail-oriented with
strong organizational skills and ability
to prioritize in a fast-paced environment.
Must interact and communicate with
overseas factories. Microsoft Excel and
Outlook proficiency a must.
E-mail resume and salary requirements to :
[email protected]
Sixty’s innovative brands are distributed to over 90 countries
worldwide, with an ever-increasing distribution to department
stores within the United States. Synonymous with life, youth,
action and energy, our brands cater to the lifestyle
of the fashion-forward individual!
Due to growth and expansion of our business, we are seeking
talented, individuals to join our apparel & footwear divisions:
Very well established missy apparel company has 2 great opportunities
avail working closely with production manager. Must have general garment industry experience, be very organized and computer literate.
Assistant - Needed for busy design/production office. Assist production
manager receiving and sending packages, distribute samples to
design/production, order supplies, some communication with factories &
shipping dept., follow-up on invoices and shipping docs.
Manage and direct buying activity for full price stores & liaise
with Italian headquarters regarding product assortments and
buying strategy. Min 7-10 yrs contemp apparel exp.
Sr. Account Executive
Drive sales, distribution and market penetration of Sixty USA
brands. Must provide sales reports & analysis including profitability, projections, and roll-ups. Min 5 yrs related sales exp.
Jr. Account Executive
Build/maintain relationships with accounts and pursue new
business opportunities. Min. 2 yrs related sales exp.
Sales Assistant
Assist sales team in maintaining showroom, field sales related questions, order entry, compilation of reports & customer
follow up. Some industry exp. preferred.
Wholesale Planner
Must be proficient in retail math, with ability to drive retail
sales plans through strong analysis and forecasting. Min 5 yrs
wholesale sales and retail planning.
Merchandise Coordinators
Work with dept. store accounts and in-store mgmt to drive
sales, train, educate and motivate staff, merchandise selling
floors and communicate with NY sales office.
We offer excellent compensation and generous benefits
package! Positions available on both East and West Coast.
Please send resume to [email protected]
MAXX New York
Come join the fun and exciting world of
Handbags! Maxx New York is seeking
an experienced, hardworking individual
to be the face of our company. You will
be greeting clients, answering multi-line
phone, data entry, along with day to day
tasks. Must be a highly organized and
polished individual with knowledge of
Outlook and Excel. Photoshop a plus!
Fax resumes to Tara at: 212-679-0311
Planning Manager/
Sr. Inventory Planner
Midtown Evening/Bridal Mfr. seeks highly
SB Buying Co, a wholly-owned subsid- skilled F/T Production Sewers and
iary of Bop LLC, keeps a close eye on Hand Finishers w/experience in Bridal /
women’s fashion, purchasing and sell- Eveningwear. We offer a great working
ing the acquired merchandise. SB environment with competitive salary &
Buying Co. buyers obtain everything a excellent benefits. Must speak English.
woman’s wardrobe needs, working Call: 212-971-0170, ext. 44 or Fax resume
with over 200 designer labels. BOP to: 212-971-8682, Attn. Sylvia
LLC runs Shopbop.com, a premier
online shopping boutique for the
fashion-savvy female. Shopbop.com is
recognized by consumers and the
$20M Runway Designer w/ 3 Divisions &
media as an excellent one-stop fashion 200+ Styles per season seeks Prod’n VP
Major Apparel co seeks individual to source.
to Source China & India. Run all Prod’n
buy fabric/trim in retail stores, e-mail
T&A. Prod Devel/Techs. work w/ Sales/Dsgn
production & follow up w/fabric deliv- JOB OVERVIEW
[email protected] 212-947-3400
eries, organize sample yardage in office, Located in New York City, SB Buying
photo all samples & keep files, maintain Co. is seeking a planning manager/sr.
fabric, production and on order books, inventory planner to develop financial,
maxipack up & organize samples for retailer
meetings, create & attach hang tags, mize profitability and turnover. The Dress company looking for an experienced
fashion research on net w/designer direc- positions will work to create merchan- receptionist. The Ideal candidate will
tion and Product Packs for production. dise plans that tie to company sales, have a pleasant phone demeanor and will
Must know Photoshop & Illustrator. gross margin, and turnover goals. be able to work well under pressure. Duties
Need someone with good eye, good Candidates should have a thorough will include answering heavy phones,
understanding of the industry and greeting customers, handling incoming/ outcommon sense and can do attitude!!!
applicable experience related to the going packages, ordering supplies; Computer
Fax resume to: 212-730-9705
skills and MS-Office a must. Email resumes
Successful candidates will have 2-5 and salary requirements in confidence
years of merchandise planning experi- to: [email protected]
ence and a strong numerical and
analytical aptitude. Strong communiSVP Level. 10 Yrs. Exp.
$200K++ cation and organizational skills are a
must, as is the ability to think and re1. Jr Handbags Expertise
act in a high-energy, fast paced
2. Sleepwear Expertise
Apply by email to:
Licensed By Madison Maidens Inc.
[email protected] with
"inventory planner" in the subject line. As Manager, you will oversee the Retail
Coordinator/Field merchandiser program.
Responsibilities include: establishing
Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or
and monitoring field merchandisers loe-mail [email protected]
cated throughout the country. Intimate
Apparel experience preferred but not
Garment Importer seeks detail oriented necessary, some prior field merchandiser
person; Chinese/English bilingual req’d. or dept. store experience, necessary.
Knowledge of garment construction. Min. Position based in Midtown, will require
2 yrs. exp. Call or Fax resumes to Tom at:
some travel. Must have strong commuTel: 212-564-2051 / Fax: 212-643-8150 nication (written and oral) and computer
skills (Excel with formulas and Outlook).
Must be accurate, organized and have
ability to follow-through.
Established Dress Manufacturer seeks
a skilled Draper. Must have experience
Growing Contemporary Sportswear
with evening and daytime dresses.
For immediate consideration,
Collection seeks a highly motivated &
MIN 10 years experience required.
email resume with Subject Header:
organized individual to assist in proFax resume to HR: 212-898-1211
Retail Merchandiser-Name, to:
duction & design admin. Fabric and
[email protected]
trim sourcing/purchasing, collating
invoices/receiving with purchase orders, monitoring fabric/trim deliveries
Established Women’s Apparel Mfr.
and production timelines, daily interBetter-Bridge Apparel Mfg. Seeks
seeks a Patternmaker with a Women’s action with production and design
Aggressive Salesperson. Draw /Commission
Sportswear background including
teams. Computer literacy a must.
[email protected] 212-947-3400
lined constructed jackets, pants, Missy
Please e-mail your resume to:
and Plus size. Must have excellent
[email protected]
computer skills. Proficiency in Gerber
PDS is highly preferable.
Fax resume to Yelena: 212-444-6022
Fresh, young intimate apparel company
has opening for samplemaker with 2-3
years experience to cut and sew bras,
Womens apparel company seeks a highly panties and sleepwear and assist in
Evening dress manufacturer seeks an organized, detail oriented individual. various sample room functions (i.e.
experienced patternmaker in social Excellent computer skills a must min. dyeing, etc.) Must have ability to work
occassion dress in missy and women’s 1-3 years exp. Fabric knowledge a plus. with different types of fabrics, knits,
Please fax resume to: 201-964-5816
sizes. Fax Resume: 212-398-0654
wovens, laces as well as experience in
sewing seamed (cut & sew) bras, bubble
molded bras and foam cup bras. Position
requires high degree of accuracy. Send
resume to: [email protected]
Runway Couture Dsgnr, Cstm Dept $150-200K
Work w/ Socialites & Movie Stars
Detail oriented person w/ a min of 5 yrs
Couture -1st Prod’n Dress $100-150K experience. Must be organized and
PDM Jacket Pattern Maker $100-135K able to manage costing & production
Designer Jackets 1st Prod’n $100-125K process. Computer proficiency. E-mail Seeking an experienced Sample Maker
Drapers/Dress 1st Pat Mkrs
$70-90K resume to : [email protected]
for Ladies’ Suit & Dress Mfr. Please
Freelance Dress or Jackets
Call or Fax resumes to Tom at:
[email protected] 212-947-3400
Tel: 212-564-2051 / Fax: 212-643-8150
Merchandiser Assistant
Production Assistant
First Patternmaker
Production Coordinator
Production Manager
Sample Maker
Womens designer apparel co. seeks fabric
and trim buyer to source, purchase and
create trim packs. Must have min 5
years experience with import/domestic ,
excellent follow-up and computer skills
Please email resume to:
[email protected]
Production Mgr & Assistants
Special occassion dress importer seeks
a production manager and an assistant.
Please call 212-944-8860 or
Fax Resume to: 212-944-9493
Production Professionals
ALL LEVELS $25-40k
[email protected]
SAMPLE RM MGR $200-$400K
Bi-lingual Italian. Run 1st-Prod’n & Q/C.
Household Name Designer, Staff of 30
Pattern Making background A+
[email protected] 212-947-3400
SPEC TECH................................40-45K
Wal Mart A+Measure /Spec Garments
Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300
[email protected]
Min. 5 years exp in Contemp/Women’s
Market. Web PDM, specing, pat corr
and grading knowledge a must. Self
motivator with strong communication
skills with overseas factories. E-mail
resume with salary requirements to:
[email protected] or fax to: 212-302-3482
*TD-Mens Young, Edgy Designer $75K
*Prod’n Coord-womens bet Japan mfr $65-75K
[email protected] 212-947-3400
Faviana, a special occasion design house
seeking highly qualified, organized &
creative person with min. 3 yrs. exp.
Must be computer proficient! Become
part of our talented & successful team!
E-mail resume: [email protected]
Production Coordinator - Production follow-up, PO tracking, style master
set-up, spec garments, update tech packs, communication with factories
and import department. Must have experience, great follow thru and be
able to multi task. Must know excel. AS400/Appcon a plus but will train.
Please fax to: (212) 328-1281 or email: [email protected]
RESUME [email protected]
Will design for our Junior Division Kool
Hearts- doing woven/knits. Must be detailoriented with 2-3 years exp. Will review
fits, spec garments, prepare production
packages,approve B’looms/color accessories
and coordinate with Sales/ Production.
Must know grading and posses good
communication skills. Will have daily
correspondence with overseas factories
and report to the head Technical Design.
We offer competitive salary and benefits.
Please email resume to: [email protected]
Absorba & Juicy Couture Baby, seeks
candidate w/min. 3 years exp. & knowledge of garment construction. Team player for fast paced environment; good
salary/benefits. Fax or E-mail resume to:
212-714-0401 / [email protected]
*Sr TD Manager Better Mkt
*Sr TD-Suits Better Market
*TD-Cut & Sew Knits
*Denim TD-Washes
*TD Outerwear Bottoms $75K+Bonus
*Spec Techs
*Freelance TD’s Wovens/Knits $30-50/hr
[email protected] 212-947-3400
Technical Designer
Ladies suit manufacturer is seeking a
detail driven Tech Designer to organize
& attend all fittings; measure samples,
and write approval comments for fit
thru production samples. Will also send
tech. packages to factories. Must be a
clear and concise communicator. Must
have sewing knowledge & know garment
construction. Must be proficient in Excel,
Word. Illustrator, & Micrografx a plus;
Minimum 3 years experience as a tech
designer. Good benefits.
Email cover letter and resume to
[email protected]
Major apparel company seeks graphic
designer for junior girls line "Pastry"
from the hit MTV show "Run’s House.
Responsibilities include developing
graded size specs, conducting fittings,
communicating fit comments and correspondence with factories.
FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705
Growing high-end women’s designer is
seeking a high energy sales account
executive with a min of 5 yrs experience.
Candidates must have established
high-end women’s retailer relationships
with major luxury retailers and
independent specialty stores. Must be
organized, detailed, and proficient in
sales reporting and systems . This position
will report to the Dir. of Sales &
Marketing, and will entail regional
travel for trunkshows, events, & prospecting. We offer a competitive salary and
pleasant work environment.
To apply, please fax your resume and
cover letter indicating your salary
requirements to: 212.246.8617
Danskin, Inc., well established active apparel
co has an immediate opening for experienced
Account Executive to manage accounts
nationwide. Strong, min. of 5 yrs, background
selling children’s wear req. Active wear exp.
a +. Strong retail math, planning & account
mgt skills a must. Based in NY. Travel is
required. Competitive compensation &
benefits package.
E-mail resumes to:
[email protected] or
Fax resumes to: (212) 930 - 9103
Sales Executive
XCVI is seeking a full-time corporate
sales rep for the NY region to work out of our
showroom in NY. Candidates must have
at least 5 years wholesale experience, with a
strong customer base in the east coast (esp.
with specialty boutiques of contemporary
and missy-contemporary markets). Experience with majors a plus. This position offers
an excellent salary, benefits and commission
(commensurate with experience).
To apply, please email your resume,
cover letter and salary history to:
[email protected]
No phone calls, please.
Contemporary Cut/Sew & Sweater Knits
Co. seeks a motivated Professional to
maintain existing account structure, as
well as develop new business. Must be
an organized team player, and possess
strong presentation skills. Candidate must
have 5 years experience working w/major
Dept. Stores/Discounters. Salary negotiable, based upon experience. E-mail
resumes to: [email protected]
Established Children’s Dress Co. seeks
Salesperson with major following. Call
516-239-1116 or Fax resume: 516-239-1910
Sales $75-100K Base + commission.
Exp in kids or jr. jeans req’d. Will service already established accounts such
as Kohl’s, JCPenney etc. Mdtn name
brand. [email protected]
Growing multi-brand showroom seeks
exp’d. sales person w/solid contacts w/
better Specialty/Dept Stores. strong
admin., computer & follow-through req’d.
Sales Account Executive
Major apparel company seeks sales
account executive with experience in
junior markets for junior girls line
"Pastry" from hit MTV show "Run’s
House". Will manage existing accounts
and aggressively pursue new sales leads.
Retailer contacts a plus. Excellent salary
and comprehensive benefits package.
Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705
+ Asst. Sales
Detail oriented, ambitious, self-starter
w/ excellent phone manners, computer
& org. skills a must. Salary commensu rate w/exp. E-mail: [email protected]
Regional Sales Reps
TANIA NARDI Collex seeks exp road
warriors for updated Missy line. Great %!
See the collection: www.tanianardi.com
Call 201-864-4300 / [email protected]
The right candidate should have proven experience in growing fashion
brands. Must have established retail relationships with better specialty
stores, preferably in both sportswear and lingerie stores. Individual should
have a minimum of 5+ years experience working with independent regional
reps & specialty stores. Strong analytical, administrative, customer service
and follow up skills required. Microsoft excel skills essential and travel to
regional markets required. Must have an ability to prioritize in a fast paced
environment. International and private label sales experience a plus. Reports
directly to Vice President of Sales.
E-mail resumes to : [email protected]
Defining style.
Delivering results.
Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail
fpclassifi[email protected]
to advertise.
Leading New York based off-price
specialist seeks motivated sales person.
Must have minimum 3 yrs OP experience. Strong growth potential. Please fax
Major apparel co. seeks detail oriented or email resume to attn Rick Bosch at:
person with excellent computer and
212-629-4027 or
High-end clothing store seeks energetic,
organizational skills. Responsibilities
[email protected]
self-motivated person w/minimum 3 years
include maintaining, preparing, and
sales experience. Please Fax or E-mail
printing reports and charts, tracking
resumes (no telephone calls, please) to:
inventory per season, organizing
...anything less would be stress! all
212-334-4961 / [email protected]
hangtags & attaching tags to garments,
Founded in 1996, bliss was spotted by maintaining files for current sales rebeauty-obsessed buzz-makers and quickly cords & archiving. Experience with mass
massaged its way to the top. Seeking an merchants, AS400 & Wal-mart experi- Quality & Responsible vertical Apparel
experienced Account Executive for the ence a plus. Excellent benefits.
Maker in China. Office in NY. Seeking
New York territory. This Sales Guru
Salesperson who can generate private
FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705
would be responsible for the following:
label sales. Salary + commission. E-mail:
sales calls, account management, [email protected]
toring and achieving sales goals, event
coordination & recruitment. The ideal
candidate must have analytical skills and
be willing to work evenings and week- NYC multi-line showroom seeks a F/T
ends. This road warrior, must also have enthisiastic Sales Consultant. Must be
previous retail beauty sales & manage- willing to travel. Experience & Specialty Major NY apparel producer with Far
East production facility seeks top rated
ment experience and be able to travel Store relationships a plus. Fax resume to:
salesperson to interact with buyers &
extensively. Positive attitude a must!!
Sr. mgmt. of major retailers. Must
Apply now! E-mail your resume to:
have solid industry relationships for
[email protected] .com
launch of a significant label. Generous
compensation package. Opportunity
of a lifetime. E-mail detailed resume:
Established Importer of Novelty
[email protected]
Sweaters/ Knits & Outerwear seeks
Leading US button co. seeks a highly
a Sales Executive with strong Dept/
motivated individual for this outstanding
Specialty Chain contacts to cultivate
and rare opportunity. Individual must
new & maintain existing accounts.
have strong customer following and Must have at least 5 years exp. Positive
Seeking energetic Salesperson with
est’d. sales. High earnings & growth
existing contacts to expand and grow
energy & strong follow-up a must.
potential in NYC with possible future
Call or fax resume to: Sandra Sadaka customer base. Top salary. Fax resume:
management role. Please E-mail resume
Tel: 212-302-3744/ Fax: 212-302-5184
to: [email protected]
Email: [email protected]
Sales Consultant
VP Sales
Leverage the power of WWD among industry
professionals to reach both active and passive
job seekers.
Call 1-800-423-3314 or email
fpclassifi[email protected] to advertise.
For more information on advertising in WWD Magazines, contact Ralph Erardy, sr vp group publisher, at 212-630-4589.